Ask the experts

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Yeah I'm really not very sweaty. I'll try the polar and see how it goes.

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[Andeh]

Are there any chest HR straps that actually work? I've had two garmins and a wahoo and they all shit the bed fairly quickly.

I use a Polar arm band one (goes on bicep) because the chest strap ones drive me nuts. No issues with it, been using it a couple years now.

[Meconium]

What other parts of the body are accurate for HR?

[Dantheman]

For sports, none.

[toastybroski]

After 1800 miles my rear rim is officially fucked. Hubs are DT 370s and seem fine. Shop wants me to spend around $300 to build a wheel around my existing hub. $150 for rim, $100 for labor, 50 for stans spokes and valves.

I really don't want to do that. Then I wont even have matching wheels. I also really done want to spend $1k for a nice wheelset. Anyone got any suggestions? 29in 148 boost with xd driver

[basinbeater]

You do actually have to wash the heart rate strap from time to time. I had a wahoo that lasted not very long, and a Garmin dual that has lasted much longer. Chest strap is far superior to optical wrist.

[rideit]

After 1800 miles my rear rim is officially fucked. Hubs are DT 370s and seem fine. Shop wants me to spend around $300 to build a wheel around my existing hub. $150 for rim, $100 for labor, 50 for stans spokes and valves.

I really don't want to do that. Then I wont even have matching wheels. I also really done want to spend $1k for a nice wheelset. Anyone got any suggestions? 29in 148 boost with xd driver

Light Bicycle has a great carbon set for that $$$. With 350’s.
I think S.C. Reserve has an alloy Wheelset for about that.

[Tailwind]

Find some take off XM1700’s for $300-$400 and call it a day. Just get a new set and sell the parts you’re left with from the old wheels. Get $50 for the hub for example.

It will likely be a nice upgrade.

After 1800 miles my rear rim is officially fucked. Hubs are DT 370s and seem fine. Shop wants me to spend around $300 to build a wheel around my existing hub. $150 for rim, $100 for labor, 50 for stans spokes and valves.

I really don't want to do that. Then I wont even have matching wheels. I also really done want to spend $1k for a nice wheelset. Anyone got any suggestions? 29in 148 boost with xd driver

[unitofstuff]

This is a great synopsis.

Here is one from a google search
Modulus of Elasticity
What is Modulus of Elasticity?
Modulus of Elasticity, also known as Elastic Modulus or simply Modulus, is the measurement of a material's elasticity. Elastic modulus quantifies a material's resistance to non-permanent, or elastic, deformation. When under stress, materials will first exhibit elastic properties: the stress causes them to deform, but the material will return to its previous state after the stress is removed. After passing through the elastic region and through their yield point, materials enter a plastic region, where they exhibit permanent deformation even after the tensile stress is removed.

Granite:
The elastic modulus varied from 11.1 GPa to 63.8 GPa.

Wood: Spruce pine: 6.89 GPa,

I'm guessing granite, like those boulders to be on the very high end of the range above. The bridge/wood lower as it'll bounce a bit before you exercise that trait of the material.

My engineering autism is twitching, so I've gotta clarify. Nobody has said anything that's wrong per se, but I want to expound on the concept.

Modulus, in the engineering context, is a general term of the relationship between stress (force applied) and strain (how much the material deforms). The different types of moduli (Young's, shear, bulk, elastic, etc.) are just that stress vs. strain measurement in different directions/axes. Might be pulling outward from opposite ends in tension, might be pushing inward from opposite ends in compression, etc.

You can definitely simplify it to "stiffness" or "brittleness" in most cases, but it is worth paying attention to what modulus someone is referencing. You're not likely to give a shit about Young's modulus when it comes to carbon bars on your bike, but the shear modulus is very likely to tell you something about their vibration dampening capabilities.

[grskier]

My engineering autism is twitching, so I've gotta clarify. Nobody has said anything that's wrong per se, but I want to expound on the concept.

Modulus, in the engineering context, is a general term of the relationship between stress (force applied) and strain (how much the material deforms). The different types of moduli (Young's, shear, bulk, elastic, etc.) are just that stress vs. strain measurement in different directions/axes. Might be pulling outward from opposite ends in tension, might be pushing inward from opposite ends in compression, etc.

You can definitely simplify it to "stiffness" or "brittleness" in most cases, but it is worth paying attention to what modulus someone is referencing. You're not likely to give a shit about Young's modulus when it comes to carbon bars on your bike, but the shear modulus is very likely to tell you something about their vibration dampening capabilities.

was trying to go for the owie when hitting your head on rock.

[BigHerm]

How can you tell if someone's an engineer?

[SchralphMacchio]

This started with me saying granite had *practically* infinite modulus and not expounding. I did not specify compressive modulus or really clarify what I meant - the key word was “practically.”

The main point was, we all can assume that if you fall onto a giant granite slab, it’s not really compressing or deforming, meaning it’s not reducing deceleration forces or absorbing any meaningful amount of the kinetic energy … Your body is taking nearly all of the impact energy if you aren’t well protected. Some of that energy is translated into rolling/ragdolling, sliding, friction etc … some of it goes to bones bending and breaking, flesh compressing, your brain momentarily flattening as it slams into the inside of your skull. At least in a falling slide a lot of the energy is preserved in kinetic form and not totally put into your body. But Yoann’s slide really only let his most of his forward and some of his downward momentum carry on while basically instantly stopping his angular momentum and putting that into his body.

If you are going to OTB without serious body armor, loam, ferns, moss, and forest duff is a better choice …

[toastybroski]

Find some take off XM1700’s for $300-$400 and call it a day. Just get a new set and sell the parts you’re left with from the old wheels. Get $50 for the hub for example.

It will likely be a nice upgrade.

Any good source for these other than fb marketplace?

[Gerome]

So I’ve upgraded my Santa Cruz Nomad V4 with a Fox 38 up front. What would the experts recommend for a rear shock? I think it requires a 230x60 shock length.


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[Gerome]

And what would the experts suggest I do to this specialized Epic from around 2010. I bought it for $1000 a few years ago. I like it because it’s a 29er that is about 25 lbs and my wife rides it, and it almost fits me too which is nice when I don’t want to ride the 37lb beast.

The front and rear shock need to be rebuilt. Is there a new shock I could fit to this bike with the old front skewer axle?

Any suggestions for a dropper post to make it less racer focused to make it more enjoyable for my wife to ride?




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[Boissal]

So I’ve upgraded my Santa Cruz Nomad V4 with a Fox 38 up front. What would the experts recommend for a rear shock? I think it requires a 230x60 shock length.

I recently exploded my EXT Storia and swapped it for a Mara Pro on my big bike. I had always had a coil on it, the air shock was a backup I bought when it was on stupid sale. Gotta say, it is damn near perfect of the Gnarvana, and it was incredible on the Occam. Considering the price difference the EXT is really hard to justify, and performance wise it's not substantially inferior (keeping in mind that you can't really compare air and coil as they ride so differently). Comparing it to one of the newer SDUs (albeit on a different bike) it's much supportive in general and I don't have to trade small bump sensitivity for mid-stroke support (my biggest pet peeve). The caveat is that the piggyback is gigantic and doesn't fit on all frames. If you can find one on sale (they are often heavily discounted on the German websites) and it fits your frame I'd definitely put it on the list.

[Gerome]

Manitiou Mara Pro looks great for around $315. Now if only Hayesbicycle.com just had the right size for my bike


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[east or bust]

Manitiou Mara Pro looks great for around $315. Now if only Hayesbicycle.com just had the right size for my bike


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I have one I’d sell. What size you looking for?

[east or bust]

I recently exploded my EXT Storia and swapped it for a Mara Pro on my big bike. I had always had a coil on it, the air shock was a backup I bought when it was on stupid sale. Gotta say, it is damn near perfect of the Gnarvana, and it was incredible on the Occam. Considering the price difference the EXT is really hard to justify, and performance wise it's not substantially inferior (keeping in mind that you can't really compare air and coil as they ride so differently). Comparing it to one of the newer SDUs (albeit on a different bike) it's much supportive in general and I don't have to trade small bump sensitivity for mid-stroke support (my biggest pet peeve). The caveat is that the piggyback is gigantic and doesn't fit on all frames. If you can find one on sale (they are often heavily discounted on the German websites) and it fits your frame I'd definitely put it on the list.

Don’t they sell a smaller reservoir? I was going to try that route then my warrantied X2 arrived with a 2024 model and I forgot about it.

[joetron]

Ok, cool. Rock is hard. Do your best not to fall on it. Pads and helmets help. Glad we’ve cleared that up.


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[carlh]

I have a warranty replacement x2 230x65 bnib if you’re interested.
I went kitsuma coil on the Black Friday sale as my old x2 was failing and like the coil for how I ride my big bike.

So I’ve upgraded my Santa Cruz Nomad V4 with a Fox 38 up front. What would the experts recommend for a rear shock? I think it requires a 230x60 shock length.


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[XXX-er]

Ok, cool. Rock is hard. Do your best not to fall on it. Pads and helmets help. Glad we’ve cleared that up.


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actualy I've heard people on TGR say they don't wear padz when its hot, I asked so you just don't crash when its hot ? but i don't think I got an answer, I don't get it

[Ottime]

Just bought an Ibis Mojo3 for my kids next bike. Taking it apart and detailing it currently.

The seller had new tires put on the bike. Likely spares he had lying around (I'm guessing his e-bike is 29er). Anyway, a 2.6 Ardent Race up front and a 2.8 Rekon + in the rear.

First, I've never been on either of their tires. Not our usual (kid currently has 26" 2.3 DHF and 2.3 High Roller II) but thinking could be fine for a 105# rider who is not typically on the edge of control. But should I switch these tires around?

I've read some people like the fat rear tire, but can only see doing that with a hardtail or mullet. OTOH, the Ardent Race might be a grippier tread? Does not seem like it, and with the "race" art I would assume firmer rubber as well.

So, should I flip these tires or remove them and find something more to our typical liking. I already have a 2.35 Nobby Nic in great shape. Maybe see these two new tires and buy one replacement and pair it with the Schwalbe. Maybe a 2.5WT DHF?


And one more question. Can I mullet this thing in a few years when I choose to upgrade my 29er fork an put my current one on this bike? I figured that might be a good way to change the geometry a bit, but I have not even begun research to see how that drops the bb and rear.

[Meconium]

I lost the preload bolt on my linkage. When I conservatively preload with something else and tighten up the pinch bolt to the spline, it last about 2hr of riding before loosening up. I'm guessing the preload bolt is imperative?

[Meconium]

The hard part is finding a M12x1.0mm bolt. Anyone know of a common component that uses a M12 with a 1mm thread pitch?