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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #13751
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Ha, I have my eye on the Huckleberry-colored Spire too... realistically I think I'm just looking for a reason to build something new, but in all honesty I love my Dreadnought too much to get rid of it.

  2. #13752
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    Was riding my enderpo bike yesterday & near bottom of the descent the XX1 12 spd shifter no longer shifted down into the 4 smallest cogs. The upper 8 shift up/down perfectly. Tomorrow I’ll take it apart to see if there’s a frayed cable that’s somehow stopping rotation, but curious if anyone has any experience with this behavior? Hard to know how many miles of use, I have a few bikes i ride, but it is a 2019 so its definitely had significant use.

    This means not enough cable is getting out so sounds like the housing popped out of it's stop or out it's ferrule and is jammed out there making the the housing effectively longer. Look for that on the derailleur loop especially but possibly at the shifter end.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air

  3. #13753
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    Jun 2007
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    Anyone have any experience with Fireeye bikes? Sister company to Nukeproof and sold on CRC. I'm looking at a Fireeye Burning AM for my kid but can find little info online other than some geometry numbers. It looks like a long travel bike with a XC/ Trail geo - so curious how it might ride. Bike is very well prices and with mid level components. But I can not find a single review online.


    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Hahahhahahahaha.

    Yo C, how old is are the cassette and chainring? I usually do the chainring when I do the cassette. If it’s a GX cassette it should be fine for 2 maybe 3 chains.

    I always do the cable and housing when I do the chain. Do you have a cable cutting tool? Electrical pliers or other snippers will not work well for cutting shift cable housing.
    Have cable cutters. No problem there.

    From what I understand, the chain ring wears more slowly than the cassette. Clearly the chain needs replacing.

    I guess my question is how can you tell when the cassette and chain ring are worn? Chain is super stetted at 1%, so I assume the cassette is trashed. Still, shifting is still quite decent - and I don't want to replace parts that are not fully worn.

  4. #13754
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    Chainring wears more quickly than the cassette. I usually go through three chainrings per casette at least. Some wear longer than others. Steel ones might outlast a cassette but most are alloy. The teeth will look worn down and 'spikey' instead of flat on the top, also thin like a knife blade rather than square when viewed from above. If your chain is at 1% I'm sure your ring is toast. If you put a new chain on that ring it will grind noticeably. Sounds like you're gonna have to replace it all.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air

  5. #13755
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    Should I go oval then? I do do a fair amount of steep/tech climbing.

  6. #13756
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    I’m a fan of ovals on older linkages and an especially big fan on hardtails.
    I’m not against them on newer bikes but I think the difference is less pronounced and more subtle on newer bikes.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  7. #13757
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    I did oval for a couple years and went back to round.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air

  8. #13758
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I wanted to drop 2 teeth on my 5.5 so I tried an absolute black but I couldn't say for sure it was good or bad cuz since i had also dropped 2 teeth was it the 2 teeth or the oval ?

    and on my e-bike there is no point in an oval cuz the crank is not fixed to the chainring
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #13759
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    I have a 31.6mm seat post and an looking for some type of locking collar I can put on it so when I remove my seat post I can just drop it back in, and the collar holds it at the correct height. McMaster had some options but seemed way more heavy duty that what I want.

    Anyone have any ideas? And don't say sharpie.

  10. #13760
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    Oct 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukonrider View Post
    I have a 31.6mm seat post and an looking for some type of locking collar I can put on it so when I remove my seat post I can just drop it back in, and the collar holds it at the correct height. McMaster had some options but seemed way more heavy duty that what I want.

    Anyone have any ideas? And don't say sharpie.
    I got my daughter a used Orbea and it has this fancy 'digit' seatpost on it:
    https://stories.orbea.com/en/dropper...se-seatpost-2/

    If you could find a used one cheap it could be the ticket.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  11. #13761
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukonrider View Post
    I have a 31.6mm seat post and an looking for some type of locking collar I can put on it so when I remove my seat post I can just drop it back in, and the collar holds it at the correct height. McMaster had some options but seemed way more heavy duty that what I want.

    Anyone have any ideas? And don't say sharpie.
    A 31.6 diameter seat collar, and clamp it to the seat post.

  12. #13762
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    A 31.6 diameter seat collar, and clamp it to the seat post.
    Well this makes a lot of sense, why didn't I think of that.

  13. #13763
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    This is where I ended up on my last 36 (It was 130mm travel, new is 160mm). I felt like with the factory number of tokens I had to run pressure so low to try and use the travel that I just wallowed in the mid stroke all of the time. I'm still less than 10 rides in on the new fork and I haven't even opened it up to see how many tokens are in there so I'll do some more futzing around this weekend. Strange though that the Shockwiz kept wanting me to lower pressure and add tokens, I knew that didn't seem right.
    Update, not that anyone cares, but if someone else goes searching: I found out I was running two tokens in the 160, comes from the factory with one, so it was definitely too progressive for me. Removed one token, upped the pressure to 74 (still 8psi below rec) and it definitely feels better. Going from 67psi to 74psi didn’t really seem to change the sag much, because I think it’s just that inaccurate. Changing your position slightly seems to change sag measurement more than the 7psi did, so it’s a little hard to be consistent.

  14. #13764
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    Jan 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post
    This means not enough cable is getting out so sounds like the housing popped out of it's stop or out it's ferrule and is jammed out there making the the housing effectively longer. Look for that on the derailleur loop especially but possibly at the shifter end.
    Sorry, I should’ve mentioned that I already checked the obvious things like these ^. Been wrenching for 30 yrs. Anyway I disassembled the shifter, used compressed air to make sure everything was clean inside, it’s working great again. It’s possible that the reassembly process itself just got everything aligned again correctly.
    Know of a pair of Fischer Ranger 107Ti 189s (new or used) for sale? PM me.

  15. #13765
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
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    1,142
    Quote Originally Posted by Yukonrider View Post
    I have a 31.6mm seat post and an looking for some type of locking collar I can put on it so when I remove my seat post I can just drop it back in, and the collar holds it at the correct height. McMaster had some options but seemed way more heavy duty that what I want.

    Anyone have any ideas? And don't say sharpie.
    Cut a narrow strip of gorilla tape (or electrical tape, or duct tape, or whatever take you think will hold best), wrap it around the post a couple of times.

    It will be thick enough to stop the post in the same spot every time. Won't hold weight, but that's what the clamp on the seat tube is for.

  16. #13766
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    If the post is black anodized, like most are, take a screwdriver and scratch a line just above the insertion point. That way you can insert the post farther if needed eg bike transport.
    Know of a pair of Fischer Ranger 107Ti 189s (new or used) for sale? PM me.

  17. #13767
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I've seen a center punch mark recommended

    with the dropper post I run my post all over the place never fully up or down
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #13768
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    Dec 2006
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    Back in Seattle
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    1,393
    Most compliant high rise handlebar option? Looking for the wife’s bike and want at least 50mm of rise. Currently has a 35mm clamp stem that would be nice to reuse but willing to go 31.8 if it makes sense.
    I see spank spoons, burgtec and deity as the readily available options.

  19. #13769
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
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    559
    I'm happy with my 31.8 Spank Spike Vibrocore 50mm rise bars. They also make a 35 bar clamp option, but those are inherently stiffer.

  20. #13770
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    Nov 2006
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    SLC
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    483
    At what point do you consider it justified to go to a full face helmet?

    Out of curiosity, I asked a couple friends and they surprised me by how low their bar was for when they'd want to start wearing one. I've been riding some lift served recently (Deer Valley), not hitting jump lines or doing anything hardcore. I don't feel underprotected in a good half shell, but a lot of people have said that shortly before some emergency dental reconstruction.

  21. #13771
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    Mar 2011
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    Way Out, CO
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    Also Chromag FU50, Ergotec and Protaper A50 (and A76) if you're OK with silver. Andrew Major over at NSMB raves about his. Just went through this for my daughter's Polygon w/ a really short headtube. Ended up with a Spank Spoon, but I can't comment on compliance, just that the purple doesn't match the frame.

  22. #13772
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by unitofstuff View Post
    At what point do you consider it justified to go to a full face helmet?

    Out of curiosity, I asked a couple friends and they surprised me by how low their bar was for when they'd want to start wearing one. I've been riding some lift served recently (Deer Valley), not hitting jump lines or doing anything hardcore. I don't feel underprotected in a good half shell, but a lot of people have said that shortly before some emergency dental reconstruction.
    one year I sold a lot of FF helmets for xmas presents sold to dads coming in the shop who had spent $$$$ on orthodotics

    the salespitch was " this is insurance on the the dental work and if kid doesnt like it just bring it back "

    i have been saved by an FF on a motor cycle and i'm thinking of going FF on the bike

    my buddy just had an accident on something easy broken nose/ helmet and will probably end up at least para if not quad

    huge shout out to L hutz for the rescue
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #13773
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    Dec 2006
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    Back in Seattle
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    I wear my light full face on anything that justifies the enduro bike, and the half shell on the hardtail that sees mostly mellower terrain with a focus on pedaling. DH helmet for lift served. The kali invader isnt that much hotter but I do take it off on long easy climbs. It seems like cheap insurance to not fuck up my face.
    My almost 8yo has a super r with the chin bar on anytime he goes off-road as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by unitofstuff View Post
    At what point do you consider it justified to go to a full face helmet?

    Out of curiosity, I asked a couple friends and they surprised me by how low their bar was for when they'd want to start wearing one. I've been riding some lift served recently (Deer Valley), not hitting jump lines or doing anything hardcore. I don't feel underprotected in a good half shell, but a lot of people have said that shortly before some emergency dental reconstruction.

  24. #13774
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    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    Quote Originally Posted by unitofstuff View Post
    At what point do you consider it justified to go to a full face helmet?

    Out of curiosity, I asked a couple friends and they surprised me by how low their bar was for when they'd want to start wearing one. I've been riding some lift served recently (Deer Valley), not hitting jump lines or doing anything hardcore. I don't feel underprotected in a good half shell, but a lot of people have said that shortly before some emergency dental reconstruction.
    Read my opening post in the anti rant thread for my full story. But to briefly answer your question, whenever air or speed are involved then the FF comes on - regardless of whether I took a lift, truck, pedaled, or walked to the top. So yes that means the vast majority of my time is spent in a FF. I should also note that I have three FF helmets: a lighter trail FF that I can pedal in even on a hot day, a much warmer convertible FF that primarily sees cold weather or shuttle duty or pedal gravity parks where I can grind up the access road without any helmet on, and a proper DH rated FF that comes out once in a blue moon (years between use) at lift served bike parks.
    Almost getting killed with a half shell on a “mostly XC” ride was the turning point for me.
    I love my Kali Invader 2.0. Have not yet tried an IXS Trigger or Super Air.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  25. #13775
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    Another comment is the physics of it:
    Impact energy does not increase linearly with incremental increases in speed, it increases parabolically.
    The difference between the same crash mechanism at 10 vs 20 mph is not double, it can be 4 times the energy dissipation through your bones (e.g., jaw, face, orbital socket, whatever). Kinetic energy is 1/2 mass times velocity squared.
    Modern trail full faces are so light and breathable, the biggest penalty is that you have to lift your helmet to drink from a bottle, or use a hydration hose. Weight and heat are not practically noticeable penalties anymore.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

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