Ask the experts

[Andeh]

I'm running my Zebs ('23) right at whatever pressure the Trailhead app says for my weight, which gave me 20% sag on both the Nomad and ebike (which apparently adds 10 psi). I run both rebounds 1 click faster than the app. I'm running HSC wide open, I think my LSC is 1 click from open on the Nomad, 2 clicks on the ebike. 1 token for 170mm travel on both.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

It ran pretty fucking good on a short trail ride tonight. Sooooo much more small bump sensitivity than my old fork. So much more grip. I ended up speeding up the rebound from -11 to -13 because it seemed a bit slow at first. Compression settings felt good to start. No big hits so we will see at the bike park this weekend, but thinking I may need to put in some more air and give it even less sag. All in all though it runs super nice.

[rideit]

Did it alleviate some of what you were thinking were the Gnarvana ‘problems’?

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Did it alleviate some of what you were thinking were the Gnarvana ‘problems’?

Yes. It's hard to confirm 100% until I go ride something with more pure chunk or braking bumps, but first impression is that as a whole the bike has calmed down more. No more crazy bucking bronco. Next step will be the more compliant wheels.

[BigHerm]

The RS recommendation I believe is start with LSC/HSC at the midpoint, ride, and adjust from there.

I ended up with LSC 2 from closed (+), HSC 1 from closed. Lot of washy trails here so didn't want fork diving in and out of washes. Landed a drop at the bikepark and thought the fork bottomed out too fast. Added 1 click HSC, all good.

What all did Diaz do to your fork?

[Dromond]

It ran pretty fucking good on a short trail ride tonight. Sooooo much more small bump sensitivity than my old fork. So much more grip. I ended up speeding up the rebound from -11 to -13 because it seemed a bit slow at first. Compression settings felt good to start. No big hits so we will see at the bike park this weekend, but thinking I may need to put in some more air and give it even less sag. All in all though it runs super nice.

What was wrong with your old fork?

[Dromond]

A friend of mine had a new 36 and was complaining about harshness, small bump sensitivity. I took one push on that thing and guessed it was tight bushings. He sent it in to Fox warranty… and they fixed the bushings. He says it rides amazing now, like getting a new fork.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I honestly don't know what Diaz exactly did other than, "It needed a lot of work." Probably bushings etc. Sounds like QC is just way way down on new forks in the covid area and that many need work right out of the box.

My old fork probably suffers from this. Was harsh/sticky right out of the box and after doing lower leg service/new seals etc. I will probably send it in for warranty if I can.

[MegaStoke]

This is a two parter:

1: I am starting to get serious about training for a bikepacking race this fall, and want to get a power meter for my hardtail. I’m currently running X01 Eagle mechanical with 170cm Carbon Descendant cranks(same thing as Carbon GX I believe). It seems like the Quarq Eagle power meter spider is only compatible with XX1 Eagle cranks, and not all eagle cranks, but maybe I’m mistaken? Alternatively, there’s also an alloy Eagle Transmission X01 power meter crankset that are about to come out that are only $400, but they don’t seem to exist quite yet, and info on them seems to be almost non-existent. I’m willing to fork out for a good setup, but I don’t want to get it wrong. I’m riding flat pedals, so pedal based options aren’t an option.

2: I also need to get a bike computer. I’ve been gps tracking with strava on my phone or Apple Watch, and doing navigation with trailforks and GaiaGPS, but I’d like to get a designated bar mounted computer, for training purposes and for navigation.

I need to be able to build up routes on my computer and import the GPX file to the unit and navigate off that. Bonus points for audibly alerting me if I deviate from the route. I have a hub dynamo charging system, so battery life isn’t too big a concern as long as it’s not egregiously poor.

Training wise, I just want the usual data, speed, power, cadence, etc.

[buttahflake]

I really like my Wahoo Bolt head unit. It’s so freaking easy to setup and the interface with Strava is seamless, which means you just have to ‘Star’ a route and it’s instantly on the map page. Same with Ride w/ GPS, pin a route and it’s in the unit.

[grskier]

What was wrong with your old fork?

Is this a joke? Or have you avoided sprockets for the last month.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Whoa, thanks coach. Will this work on my, wheel off smart trainer? Also, if I went to an 80mm stem, will the bike feel twitchy? It came stock with a 100 and I have already gone to a 90.

Didn’t see anyone answer to this so:

No issues using a wheel-off trainer. Just make sure the front and rear axles are horizontal with one another. (Old recommendation would be to put a phone book under the front tire, but….)

Also, regarding fore/aft, the knee over pedal is fine as a starting point, but also don’t be afraid of going forward of that if you want. Especially if you are/want to run an aggressive saddle-to-bar drop. (Aggressive is, say, top of handlebar more than 8cm below midpoint of saddle surface.)

UCI implemented a rule some time ago that the nose of the saddle needs to be at least 5cm behind the BB spindle because racers were pushing them further and further forward, to make more power in a low aero position. Thus short nose saddles were invented to skirt the rule. Now there’s a min saddle length rule too (240mm).

Edit: Regarding stem length, 80mm stem is not unusually short. Will be twitchier, but probably not what you’d call twitchy. Handlebar is adding significant reach to that 80mm if you’re on the hoods or in the drops, which is where you’ll be when handling is a concern.

[singlesline]

I really like my Wahoo Bolt head unit. It’s so freaking easy to setup and the interface with Strava is seamless, which means you just have to ‘Star’ a route and it’s instantly on the map page. Same with Ride w/ GPS, pin a route and it’s in the unit.

Downside for bikepacking is that the Wahoos don't directly integrate with Trailforks. You can use the app to upload a route from trailforks, but the built in maps only have well established roads/trails (like forest service trails, but not necessarily sanctioned MTB trails from a local org)...you can't see everything that is on TF.

Their routing is decent and works fine on the road, but if you get off-route in an area where the Wahoo maps don't cover the trail/fire road you are on, it will go a little crazy trying to re-route you based on the trails it knows exist.

Not sure how Garmin handles this but I know there's at least some Trailforks support on their end. I've tried to raise this with Wahoo both to their reps at events and on social media, but I figure they just don't think there's enough demand so they haven't done it.

It is mostly annoying when you are trying to navigate to something specific in an area with a spiderweb of trails. Would be nice if you could just look down at the computer when you hit a questionable intersection rather than pulling your phone out, but there's no way to get the whole trail network to show up on the Bolt. You can pre-define a route in Trailforks, but that takes time and it isn't always perfect. e.g. you come to a narrow split, the computer just says go "forwards" and it is only after you've ridden 30 yards that you realize you've started drifting away from your intended path because you took the wrong fork.

Other than that, I'm pretty happy with my Bolt v2. Works well for bringing in a long road/gravel ride from Strava/RideWithGPS.

[buttahflake]

Didn’t see anyone answer to this so:

No issues using a wheel-off trainer. Just make sure the front and rear axles are horizontal with one another. (Old recommendation would be to put a phone book under the front tire, but….)

Also, regarding fore/aft, the knee over pedal is fine as a starting point, but also don’t be afraid of going forward of that if you want. Especially if you are/want to run an aggressive saddle-to-bar drop. (Aggressive is, say, top of handlebar more than 8cm below midpoint of saddle surface.)

UCI implemented a rule some time ago that the nose of the saddle needs to be at least 5cm behind the BB spindle because racers were pushing them further and further forward, to make more power in a low aero position. Thus short nose saddles were invented to skirt the rule. Now there’s a min saddle length rule too (240mm).

Edit: Regarding stem length, 80mm stem is no unusually short. Will be twitchier, but probably not what you’d call twitch. Handlebar is adding to significant reach to that 80mm if you’re on the hood or in the drops, which is where you’ll be when handling is a concern.

Thank you for this

[J. Barron DeJong]

Thank you for this

One more thing: If doing this indoors, careful of the shedding Queso particles getting into the carpet .

[rideit]

Brilliant!

[buttahflake]

I ordered a 10-50 cassette and GX AXS derailleur and a new chain. I went with the XX1 cassette and chain, shop has a QBP account and even though I’m not working there in the summer they are hooking it up at cost plus 10%, that works. For the mullet setup on the gravel bike. Will my cassette cracker that I use on the Shimano road bike work with the SRAM cassette? Also is just pressing the button on the GX until it flashes and then pressing the buttons on the shifters all that it takes to get it adjusted?

[Dromond]

Is this a joke? Or have you avoided sprockets for the last month.

I wanted to know what the season finale was!

[Dee Hubbs]

Will my cassette cracker that I use on the Shimano road bike work with the SRAM cassette? Also is just pressing the button on the GX until it flashes and then pressing the buttons on the shifters all that it takes to get it adjusted?

Yes and yes.

[climberevan]

1: I am starting to get serious about training for a bikepacking race this fall, and want to get a power meter I’m riding flat pedals, so pedal based options aren’t an option.

2: I also need to get a bike computer. I
I need to be able to build up routes on my computer and import the GPX file to the unit and navigate off that. Bonus points for audibly alerting me if I deviate from the route.
.

I guess you wouldn't be the FIRST person to use a power meter with flat pedals, but it certainly isn't the usual setup.

I'm currently trying to get Ms CE a PM for her MTB. She tried the Rally pedals (thanks Xtr!) but didn't like the extra stack height. Spider based PMs are out bc she runs a 28 t ring. So we're left with left side or spindle PMs. Power Meter City has Rotor dual sided ones on sale right now, so that's an option. I'm not a fan of Stages and their bullshit 1y warranty, but 4iii is good.

The least expensive option is an Xcadey spider for your SRAM cranks. Direct from AliExpress they are like $255.

We've also considered the new XO aluminum arm for her SRAM carbon cranks, but the new 55mm chainline will require an offset ring and spacers to remedy, and it will widen her Q factor.

All computers will let you upload and follow tracks, and AFAIK all of them do audible alerts. They all have our can be loaded with decent maps.

I don't think looking around on maps and figuring out routes or deviations on the fly is feasible on any bar-mounted computer. You'll just need to use your phone with good maps (Locus, Gaia, etc).

On bikepacking trips when I know I'll be doing on the fly changes I just mount my phone to the bar and run RWGPS to get power and other data. Battery life is the only real downside to that, but your dynamo should cover you there.

[Dumbest Known Time]

All computers will let you upload and follow tracks, and AFAIK all of them do audible alerts. They all have our can be loaded with decent maps.

I don't think looking around on maps and figuring out routes or deviations on the fly is feasible on any bar-mounted computer. You'll just need to use your phone with good maps (Locus, Gaia, etc).

On bikepacking trips when I know I'll be doing on the fly changes I just mount my phone to the bar and run RWGPS to get power and other data. Battery life is the only real downside to that, but your dynamo should cover you there.

Second the idea that on the fly routing is lousy on any bar mounted unit. My Wahoo is fantastic for established route navigation and the workflow to loading routes onto it works great. But anytime I'm trying to look at a map to determine my next on-the-fly route move it is always faster to just pull out my phone. The bigger screen and the touchscreen just make it so much more effective for either Google Maps or Trailforks.

[Jtlange]

New Fox 38 fork + Burnishing tool + clearing out all the grease in the negative chamber + reshimming the damper a little bit = best fork I have ever ridden.

I have never been on a fork that just floated over the trail like this one. Very happy with my decision to do all that work (and buying the burnishing tool).

[buttahflake]

Yes and yes.

Thank you

[bagtagley]

Need to mount my Mara Pro. My plan is to press out the DU bushings on the Mara and replace with the poly bushings and hardware on the Fox it's replacing. Any reason not to do that?

[MegaStoke]

Second the idea that on the fly routing is lousy on any bar mounted unit. My Wahoo is fantastic for established route navigation and the workflow to loading routes onto it works great. But anytime I'm trying to look at a map to determine my next on-the-fly route move it is always faster to just pull out my phone. The bigger screen and the touchscreen just make it so much more effective for either Google Maps or Trailforks.

Yeah for actual navigation I’ll use GaiaGPS, I’m just looking for something to help keep me on route. For instance, I’m racing the AZT this October, and I hear there are some sections that are tricky to follow without gps, but I don’t want to bar mount my phone, nor do I want to stop, pull my phone out, and figure it out.

Anyone have experience with the Hammerhead Karoo 2? Seems pretty neat for my purposes.