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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8976
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    The picture sucks… basically on one side the whole seam is pretty smooth, other side noticeably raised and no longer smooth. Think .5mm or 1mm displacement.

    The sidewall of the rim probably has a 3mm gap where it twisted where it was previously joined.

    It’s a 3 pawl DT hub… so I’m tempted to just go for a full new wheel.
    Have a new 2022 DT Swiss Spline XM 1700 SP, 30mm, 29er, 148old, CL (with 6 bolt adapters), XD or Micro Freehub.
    I'm in Colorado, PM for a price that is below cost.

  2. #8977
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    The clutch is definitely a weak point on the Shimano derailleurs. I service mine really frequently after having one fail in less than 500mi (seemingly no grease from the factory). It was warrantied.

    Here's a new failure mode for everyone: main cage pivot. I got it working again and all is well, but it's another thing to check. It's like they just leave out grease sometimes.

    Attachment 426415Attachment 426416
    Lately I’ve seen quite a few lower end Sram derailleurs on Ebikes where the cage pivots wore causing the derailleur to not stay in gear. Even saw that lead to a folded over cassette!

  3. #8978
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    Here is a better photo of the rim damage I mentioned upthread.

    i was able to bend it back gently. I added a layer of Gorilla Tape to the rim to make the bead a little tighter. Seems to be holding tubeless ‘fine’ but I’ll probably replace it soon and only use it on close in rides (no remote epics). Thanks for the feedback.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #8979
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    Trying to set up my cockpit on my first new bike in 15 yrs, so obv new geometry (Ripley AF XL). What's a good way to judge if the amount of weight on the hands is correct with a modern steeper STA bike. I'm playing around with stem spacer height , bar roll (came stock w 30mm rise Ibis Carbon bars and a 40mm 0 rise stem). I haven't ridden on a bike with a slack head tube steeper seat tube before , so have no frame of reference for good positioning. .

  5. #8980
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Here is a better photo of the rim damage I mentioned upthread.

    i was able to bend it back gently. I added a layer of Gorilla Tape to the rim to make the bead a little tighter. Seems to be holding tubeless ‘fine’ but I’ll probably replace it soon and only use it on close in rides (no remote epics). Thanks for the feedback.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Structurally I wouldn't be too worried about that. I think your main issue is just the tubeless setup and getting it to stay sealed.

  6. #8981
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post
    Trying to set up my cockpit on my first new bike in 15 yrs, so obv new geometry (Ripley AF XL). What's a good way to judge if the amount of weight on the hands is correct with a modern steeper STA bike. I'm playing around with stem spacer height , bar roll (came stock w 30mm rise Ibis Carbon bars and a 40mm 0 rise stem). I haven't ridden on a bike with a slack head tube steeper seat tube before , so have no frame of reference for good positioning. .
    There's no magic solution. Your preferred setup is almost entirely dependent on personal preference and your body's proportions. Longer arms tend to like a lower bar, shorter arms like a higher bar, etc.

    Get a situation that feels "right" in the garage, then go ride it. Adjust as needed. If your initial setup is low-ish, leave some spacers above the stem so you can raise it in the future, if needed.

  7. #8982
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post
    Trying to set up my cockpit on my first new bike in 15 yrs, so obv new geometry (Ripley AF XL). What's a good way to judge if the amount of weight on the hands is correct with a modern steeper STA bike. I'm playing around with stem spacer height , bar roll (came stock w 30mm rise Ibis Carbon bars and a 40mm 0 rise stem). I haven't ridden on a bike with a slack head tube steeper seat tube before , so have no frame of reference for good positioning. .
    Try riding it as is, if yer like most old fucks who buy a modern bike yer gona hate it anyway

    Personaly I really like the new position & cockpits
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #8983
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    There's no magic solution. Your preferred setup is almost entirely dependent on personal preference and your body's proportions. Longer arms tend to like a lower bar, shorter arms like a higher bar, etc.

    Get a situation that feels "right" in the garage, then go ride it. Adjust as needed. If your initial setup is low-ish, leave some spacers above the stem so you can raise it in the future, if needed.
    ^^^ This for sure. You could also pick a short 5-10 min section of trail near trail head and do some tweaks in the lot between laps. This is a really good way to get suspension settings sorted as well IMO.

  9. #8984
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    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Thanks all!

    I'll do a clutch service and see if that helps.

    She's on a Transition Sentinel, not that weird of routing, and the housing was brand new last fall. Shifter was originally Deore, which weirdly seemed to work better than the XT one we replaced it with. I'm planning on servicing the clutch, putting the old Deore shifter back on, and putting on a new hanger this afternoon before she goes for a ride. If that doesn't fix it, she's getting Microsoft haha.
    You said you adjusted b tension but what exactly did you do there? Your symptoms are consistent with a bit too much B tension with Shitmano IME. Decrease it to the point that you’re just getting enough pulley clearance on the biggest two cogs shifting.

    Twice now I’ve seen shimano 12 spd shifting issues that ‘seemed’ to be worn or sticky cables but weren’t.
    Know of a pair of Fischer Ranger 107Ti 189s (new or used) for sale? PM me.

  10. #8985
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    This bike forum is pretty active, which is great. Anyone support the idea of creating 5 ‘ask the experts’ threads on the general topics of Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain, Wheels, Tires (we have one for that already)?

    This current Ask the Experts thread is a PITA. Conversation hops across multiple topics simultaneously, and I see questions and answers repeated since its hard to search such a long and varied thread. Can you imagine if the snow Tech Talk forum has a single main thread? It’d be a shitshow.
    Know of a pair of Fischer Ranger 107Ti 189s (new or used) for sale? PM me.

  11. #8986
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    Not sure how busy all of those separate threads would get but I've definitely thought a suspension/bike setup thread could be useful.

  12. #8987
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    Suspensión thread should be prefaced with a decent FAQ, regarding leverage ratios/kinematics, how one rides, shock tunes, what various adjustments do and how they affect each other, benefits of aftermarket damper/air solutions, setting sag, etc, etc.
    It’s more dense than I could provide, most certainly.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  13. #8988
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Here is a better photo of the rim damage I mentioned upthread.

    i was able to bend it back gently. I added a layer of Gorilla Tape to the rim to make the bead a little tighter. Seems to be holding tubeless ‘fine’ but I’ll probably replace it soon and only use it on close in rides (no remote epics). Thanks for the feedback.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You could clean that joint really well and put a dab of PU caulk in the gap to help seal.


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  14. #8989
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    This bike forum is pretty active, which is great. Anyone support the idea of creating 5 ‘ask the experts’ threads on the general topics of Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain, Wheels, Tires (we have one for that already)?

    This current Ask the Experts thread is a PITA. Conversation hops across multiple topics simultaneously, and I see questions and answers repeated since its hard to search such a long and varied thread. Can you imagine if the snow Tech Talk forum has a single main thread? It’d be a shitshow.
    That could be useful.... as we also have a gravel bike thread etc.
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  15. #8990
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    This bike forum is pretty active, which is great. Anyone support the idea of creating 5 ‘ask the experts’ threads on the general topics of Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain, Wheels, Tires (we have one for that already)?

    This current Ask the Experts thread is a PITA. Conversation hops across multiple topics simultaneously, and I see questions and answers repeated since its hard to search such a long and varied thread. Can you imagine if the snow Tech Talk forum has a single main thread? It’d be a shitshow.
    I agree.

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  16. #8991
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinipenem View Post
    I agree.

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    Yeah, do it. I search this thread occasionally looking for something specific and it's a pia to find. Probably end up duplicating something that's already been discussed. And not saying that wouldn't happen in a specific thread either, but it would be less likely.

  17. #8992
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinipenem View Post
    I agree.

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    Yes


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  18. #8993
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    I would rather answer the same question this week that I answered last week

    it makes me feel useful
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #8994
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I would rather answer the same question this week that I answered last week

    it makes me feel useful
    Even if you're wrong both times like me?

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  20. #8995
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I would rather answer the same question this week that I answered last week

    it makes me feel useful
    Aqua seal is not the correct answer.

  21. #8996
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    I've actualy used AQS on a bike to patch seats, also good for extending the life of riding gloves

    of course you dentists got so much money that you just buy new stuff

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    Last edited by XXX-er; 09-16-2022 at 10:41 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #8997
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    You said you adjusted b tension but what exactly did you do there? Your symptoms are consistent with a bit too much B tension with Shitmano IME. Decrease it to the point that you’re just getting enough pulley clearance on the biggest two cogs shifting.

    Twice now I’ve seen shimano 12 spd shifting issues that ‘seemed’ to be worn or sticky cables but weren’t.
    Good to know, thanks. We set B tension according to the mark on the back of the derailleur.

    I ended up swapping out her hanger, swapping the Deore shifter on instead of XT, fixing a small kink where the housing entered the derailleur, and cleaning and greasing the clutch. I don't know which of those moves ended up helping, but the bike is shifting better than it has since new. So thanks for all the suggestions Experts, I don't know which of you gets the credit, but I basically took all of the suggestions haha!

  23. #8998
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    off your knees Louie

  24. #8999
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    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Bummer. Good to know, thanks. Gonna see if we can limp her through one more trip, and then probably sell the whole bike to a high school kid and go SRAM next time.
    I find that Dumonde Free Hub Grease lasts longer than the Shimano stuff. If things ever get wonky on my XT mech its usually the clutch, but I just had the cable housing issue come up too but it doesnt sound like its old enough for that to be the problem. One of those two will get you fixed.

  25. #9000
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    Quote Originally Posted by BFD View Post
    He could have at least blamed an e-bike lol

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