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Thread: Ask the experts
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08-21-2022, 11:58 AM #8776Registered User
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it sounds like there is no cleat setup for SPD's ?
i have some of those 20$ welgo spd knock off's sitting in a drawer some where, they had even less float than shimano and as i remember were slightly different than a Shimano cleatLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-21-2022, 12:38 PM #8777
Just ordered some Special 8s. Probably not gonna make me ride any better lol.
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08-21-2022, 12:43 PM #8778
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08-21-2022, 02:18 PM #8779
I found a great deal on a rockshox dropper but it doesn’t have the seat clamp parts. Anyone have a dead post and willing to part with?
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08-21-2022, 03:18 PM #8780
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08-21-2022, 03:28 PM #8781
Awesome! I do understand the rage. Knock on wood the new ones have been good to me.
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08-21-2022, 04:00 PM #8782
Where are people buying derailleur cables (internal) these days? Literally last time I stocked up was 6 years ago I split a box with a few buddies. Back then a 100 count box of Sram Stainless cables was $130 bucks. Now it looks like $8-10/each individually wrapped at the LBS? Fack.
However many are in a shit ton.
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08-21-2022, 04:02 PM #8783
I've got the Park CC-4, same price, seems a little more accurate.
Another vote for TIME pedals. I do prefer the older non-adjustable ATAC mechanism by a hair. I feel like it has more neutral float and better retention. The new alloy cages are nice though and I'm on the Speciale 8 also. Bought my first pair of TIMEs in '96 and they still work fine, never ridden anything else since.There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air
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08-21-2022, 04:42 PM #8784Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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whole bunch of vids on setting up cleats
https://ca.video.search.yahoo.com/yh...d4&action=viewLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-21-2022, 08:17 PM #8785Registered User
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- Oct 2010
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Ask the experts
You can get bulk Shimano stainless for like $2 either in a 10-pack or a 100-pack. They’re both about the same per piece. Jagwire galvanized are like $65 for 100 and I’ve had decent luck on my cheap bikes with those not rusting as long as you use good ferrules and housing.
For my MTB I just go to the LBS every 3-4 months and buy an Opti-Slick from them for like $8. I think they shift better and it’s nice to get some face time with the shop guys for when I actually need something.
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08-21-2022, 09:22 PM #8786Registered User
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when a shop closed down i scored a whole bunch of shit including a box full of jagwire housing,
having that housing and changing it often as well as the inner is pretty key imeLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-21-2022, 09:48 PM #8787Registered User
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08-22-2022, 08:57 AM #8788yelgatgab
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The whole point of uninterrupted housing is that you don’t have to change it out very often.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
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08-22-2022, 10:13 AM #8789Registered User
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if you have that 9" loop of housing at the der and then an exposed inner wire, just changing the 9" loop often makes a huge difference
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-22-2022, 10:48 AM #8790
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08-22-2022, 12:07 PM #8791
Awesome, that will be fine. Won’t be building till the winter.
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08-22-2022, 01:23 PM #8792
Ok what the hell is going on here? Sram eagle X01 cassette…. Seemingly has no teeth for removal. My understanding the eagle cassette doesn’t need a lockring but is this missing a piece? Teeth totally stripped and will need to be cut to remove?
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08-22-2022, 01:33 PM #8793
The splines are recessed a little bit on those cassettes. Tough to tell in the pic - are they just hiding in the dirt in there? The splines are kinda built into the center carrier body of the cassette - it's not a separate piece and I don't think they can come off without the entire cassette explodering.
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08-22-2022, 01:38 PM #8794
Ask the experts
I’ll clean it up and see but on all my other eagle cassettes I can usually see the splines closer to the surface.
I put the cassette tool in there and it just free spins, no engagement at all.
I should add, used wheels and cassette so don’t know the history.
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08-22-2022, 02:33 PM #8795
Looking to upgrade the cantilever brakes on my old tandem, and they are functional-ish, but pretty spicy when trying to stop going downhill. Any good options for upgrades that aren't multiple hundreds of dollars?
Would love to just throw a disc on the front, but it's a 1" threaded fork for a 26" wheel and a bit of google makes that upgrade feel like it won't be worth the hassle.
V brakes? Some sort of newer canti? Am I just missing a threaded disc fork?
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08-22-2022, 02:38 PM #8796
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08-22-2022, 02:40 PM #8797
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08-22-2022, 04:51 PM #8798
Yah it’s real weird and I haven’t seen it before.
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08-22-2022, 05:27 PM #8799Registered User
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- Nov 2011
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I have a Pike RC Solo Air 160mm that came on the 2016 process 153. It's very hard on small bumps. When I have it dialed in for big hits it feels like a solid fork on rumble strips and bridge slats. If I adjust the rebound to max it's nice and plush on small bumps but it's too fast on bigger obstacles. The low speed damper setting makes it from bad to worse. I did the oil service, no difference. Last year someone here mentioned the same problem and there were some good suggestions. I can't find the posts.
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08-22-2022, 05:35 PM #8800
I had the 2015 version of that fork and I think it's the same everything for 2016 as well......could be wrong though. My fork sucked balls no matter what I did and I think the consensus on the internets was that no amount of tuning/oil changes made it not suck. There are some/many from that era of Pikes that simply just suck balls. At the time I think I switched to a DVO Diamond and it was night and day.
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