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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8751
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Hah, yeah, that thing is hammered. Should be 104 BCD.
    What else do I need to know to buy a proper replacement? Remember, when it comes to bikes I'm dumber than I appear (which is really saying something).
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  2. #8752
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    I almost never see 3x on a mtn bike cuz most people don't have legs to turn the big chain ring

    especialy as bikes/ tires get heavier so I would see a bash guard intsead

    Now your big ring IS the bash guard, not much point in replacing it with a new chain ring/ bash guard IMO,

    I would be tempted to just lock out the big ring with the limit screw when it no longer has enough teeth to works

    but if you really want a big ring the best way to get the right part is to take it off & go to the shop for a new one
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #8753
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    What else do I need to know to buy a proper replacement? Remember, when it comes to bikes I'm dumber than I appear (which is really saying something).
    When's the last time you changed your chain? Going out on a limb and guessing your whole drivetrain is shot there. So a new ring likely won't work with your chain and the cassette won't work with a new chain. The good news is replacing it all will be pretty cheap if you can find the stuff.

    It'll be 104x4 bolt for the big and middle. Not sure on the granny, if you want one you can measure the bolt circle diameter.

    Found this on the 5.10 Freerider Pro Primeblues:

    Quote Originally Posted by MBR
    The big difference between the shoes is the rubber used to form the Dotty sole. The Freerider Pro Primeblue uses Stealth rubber, whereas the base shoe gets softer Stealth S1 – the former is around 15-20 per cent harder, and when I rode these shoes back-to-back I could feel that difference on the pedal. It just wasn’t as locked-in when descending and there was definitely more movement in the wet.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air

  4. #8754
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    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post
    When's the last time you changed your chain? Going out on a limb and guessing your whole drivetrain is shot there. So a new ring likely won't work with your chain and the cassette won't work with a new chain. The good news is replacing it all will be pretty cheap if you can find the stuff.

    It'll be 104x4 bolt for the big and middle. Not sure on the granny, if you want one you can measure the bolt circle diameter.

    I'm not looking to replace everything, just the big ring because I have always ignored the advice to change it because I never used it. I do get my bike serviced every year by a pro mechanic who is really good and has replaced the chain more than once in my recent memory, so while I can't tell you when the chain was last replaced, the assumption that the whole drivetrain is shot based on the condition of the big ring would be an incorrect assumption. But still, I don't actually know when the chain was last replaced so it is possible that it needs it.

    He's not a shop mechanic so I don't know if he can source all the parts or not, but maybe I should just take it to him and see, so I don't get a new ring and then have to go through the whole song and dance because it won't work.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  5. #8755
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    I know I want to get non-knobby tires, any suggestions? I saw this tire with a description that fits perfectly, but don't know if that's the tire I should get. Do I need to post details of my rims for you to answer?
    Any thoughts on this part of my question? Or should just buy those tires and call it good.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  6. #8756
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBS View Post
    No matter which way you go, you’re gonna end up replacing chainring, chain, cassette and maybe deuralleur.

    Get new chainring -> old chain too stretched, wont mesh
    Get new chain -> cassette teeth are sharktoothed and wont mesh. Jockey wheels on deuralleur are probably fucked up too.
    Even if the rest of the bike and drivetrain has been serviced regularly and chain and cassette replaced when appropriate? Again, the condition of that big ring is not at all reflective of maintenance done to the rest of the bike.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  7. #8757
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    Hold a measuring tape next to the chain and see how much it's stretched. Measure from the left edge of one pin to the left edge of another one that's 12-15 links away (whatever it takes to get a close measurement to a line on your tape/ruler/etc.) Count the links used. The chain links are supposed to be 1/2" each so you just need to see, for example, how many links it takes before it's 1/16" or 1/8" longer than it's supposed to be.

  8. #8758
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    Yet another question about pedals/cleats:

    So I'm trying to ride more like "a whore" aka knees out to get a little more english on the bike instead of knees in. Been running shimano XT or XTR trail pedals for last 8 or 9 years. When I try to ride with my knees out I feel like I'm gonna unclip too easily or that I don't have enough float in the cleat.

    I feel like many/most enduro racers are on crank bros mallets or HTs. Has anyone switched from Shimano to these kinds of pedals or can I chance my cleat angle or something?

    I had written off crank bros a while back when I got horribly stuck in some egg beaters and upside down with one cleat completely jammed/stuck. That doesn't seem to be a normal occurrence though.

  9. #8759
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Even if the rest of the bike and drivetrain has been serviced regularly and chain and cassette replaced when appropriate? Again, the condition of that big ring is not at all reflective of maintenance done to the rest of the bike.
    Sorry was deleting and redoing posts

    It’s pretty rare to have a case where you can just replace a chainring. The teeth wallow out to conform to a stretched chain. When new chainring put on, it doesn’t play well with other components

    The middle chain ring doesn’t look all that great either but tough to tell from photo. Maybe put chain on big ring and rephoto

    Also, measure chain - 24 links should be 12”. If longer by chainpin width, it needs replacing

    Post photo of cassette as well, with chain on bottom gear. Need to see level of sharktoothing there.

  10. #8760
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    What I always do to set the cleat position on SPD's is to naturaly be in in the center of the cleat's float so I clip in and spin in a relaxed normal manner without thinking about it ( a trainer is good for this) to let the foot find its natural position while spinning then stop and check the heel movement side to side to see if I my shoe's heel is in the middle of the cleat's " float " on the peddle or am i up against either side of the float, for me the heel of the shoe usually ends up about 3/4 to 1 " away from the crank arm when the crank comes around next to the shoe, loctite & crank the screws down hard

    I duno if altering what is natural to your knees is good for the knees ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #8761
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBS View Post
    Sorry was deleting and redoing posts

    It’s pretty rare to have a case where you can just replace a chainring. The teeth wallow out to conform to a stretched chain. When new chainring put on, it doesn’t play well with other components

    The middle chain ring doesn’t look all that great either but tough to tell from photo. Maybe put chain on big ring and rephoto

    Also, measure chain - 24 links should be 12”. If longer by chainpin width, it needs replacing

    Post photo of cassette as well, with chain on bottom gear. Need to see level of sharktoothing there.
    this ^^ changing a chain might mean everything will skip and I've had that happen

    If its working now probably the best thing to do is nothing until it starts to skip at which point you probably need to replace everything
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #8762
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBS View Post
    Sorry was deleting and redoing posts

    It’s pretty rare to have a case where you can just replace a chainring. The teeth wallow out to conform to a stretched chain. When new chainring put on, it doesn’t play well with other components

    The middle chain ring doesn’t look all that great either but tough to tell from photo. Maybe put chain on big ring and rephoto

    Also, measure chain - 24 links should be 12”. If longer by chainpin width, it needs replacing

    Post photo of cassette as well, with chain on bottom gear. Need to see level of sharktoothing there.
    I will take pics. But again, you seem to be assuming that I have been using the big chainring, and I have not. That somehow the rest of the drivetrain must be shit and need replacing if I need to replace the big ring. But I will repeat, I have an excellent mechanic and have replaced what he has told me to replace when he has told me to replace it, EXCEPT I have ignored that advice WRT to the big ring, because I never used it so replacing it made no sense. Now, I want to use it, so want to get a new one. And maybe the time has come to replace the chain again, I don't know. But assuming that I must have a stretched chain because the big ring is shit or the bike is old would be incorrect.

    I did measure, and over 12 links it is between 1/16" and 1/32" off.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  13. #8763
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    But based on the commentary, I will just take it to my mechanic and have him source what he needs to make it all work.
    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  14. #8764
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    Great choice

  15. #8765
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Yet another question about pedals/cleats:

    So I'm trying to ride more like "a whore" aka knees out to get a little more english on the bike instead of knees in. Been running shimano XT or XTR trail pedals for last 8 or 9 years. When I try to ride with my knees out I feel like I'm gonna unclip too easily or that I don't have enough float in the cleat.

    I feel like many/most enduro racers are on crank bros mallets or HTs. Has anyone switched from Shimano to these kinds of pedals or can I chance my cleat angle or something?

    I had written off crank bros a while back when I got horribly stuck in some egg beaters and upside down with one cleat completely jammed/stuck. That doesn't seem to be a normal occurrence though.
    This is why I switched to Times. Used to run shimanos, but I would clip out at inopportune times when I was contorting myself through a corner. That was even with fresh cleats and the tension on the pedals maxed out. I liked the shimanos otherwise - great pedals, just not enough float. Times have way more float, and I almost never inadvertently unclip now. Been riding Times for ~20 years now with no regrets.

    I tried running crank brothers for a bit, just because they're more common than times. The float is great - comparable to times. Everything else is fucking terrible. If you hit them on anything they eject your foot. And the bales rotate when you unclip, so clipping back in is a tiny bit different every time. I found it almost impossible to drop a foot in a corner and immediately clip back in. I'd always have to fumble around with my foot for a bit to get it clipped. I have no idea why those pedals are so popular.

  16. #8766
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    This is why I switched to Times. Used to run shimanos, but I would clip out at inopportune times when I was contorting myself through a corner. That was even with fresh cleats and the tension on the pedals maxed out. I liked the shimanos otherwise - great pedals, just not enough float. Times have way more float, and I almost never inadvertently unclip now. Been riding Times for ~20 years now with no regrets.

    I tried running crank brothers for a bit, just because they're more common than times. The float is great - comparable to times. Everything else is fucking terrible. If you hit them on anything they eject your foot. And the bales rotate when you unclip, so clipping back in is a tiny bit different every time. I found it almost impossible to drop a foot in a corner and immediately clip back in. I'd always have to fumble around with my foot for a bit to get it clipped. I have no idea why those pedals are so popular.
    I switched to HTs for similar twisting out of SPDs in corners reasons, but also I didn't want more float. I can just crank the HTs (especially the SX versions, but also the normal ones) a lot tighter and just hold myself in better. I've been very happy with them.

  17. #8767
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    I just started running flats two yrs ago on my Bronson and still spd on the Hightower. The HT is my xc bike . Flats are fun. They've changed my riding style...with the spd's also. I don't think it's faster, but it's more fun. Or it could be the Bronson. Or it could be mtb biking is just fun. Or maybe it's the weed, the bikes, the dirt, the beer. Anyway, two friends love the times.

  18. #8768
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    I just started running flats two yrs ago on my Bronson and still spd on the Hightower. The HT is my xc bike . Flats are fun. They've changed my riding style...with the spd's also. I don't think it's faster, but it's more fun. Or it could be the Bronson. Or it could be mtb biking is just fun. Or maybe it's the weed, the bikes, the dirt, the beer. Anyway, two friends love the times.
    Riding flats is fun, I do some of both. More flats in the winter (PNW), more clipped in during summer.

  19. #8769
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post

    I did measure, and over 12 links it is between 1/16" and 1/32" off.
    Jenson has some chainrings for 9 spd/104 BCD. It sounds like your chain is fine and if it's been replaced regularly and if the rest of the teeth are working with it you should be fine. Maybe not perfect, but your expectations sound reasonable.

  20. #8770
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    I actually did run Time ATACs for a while when I first started racing enduro and I can't quite remember why I stopped. The Time Special 8 Enduro pedals look pretty sweet.

  21. #8771
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    ever one should own a go-no-go chain checker they are < 20$

    https://www.probikekit.ca/bicycle-to...6&gclsrc=3p.ds
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #8772
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I actually did run Time ATACs for a while when I first started racing enduro and I can't quite remember why I stopped. The Time Special 8 Enduro pedals look pretty sweet.
    Yeah, the speciale 8 is what I'm running. My only complaint is that, after a while, I get a little creaking from the springs. I just drip a little chain lube in there from time to time to keep them quiet.

  23. #8773
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    Also an ex SPD convert running Speciale 8s. Definitely a worthwhile switch, especially if the goal is being certain you’re not going to have an unexpected release. I’ve also heard great things about HTs, but no personal experience.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  24. #8774
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    I can't speak to the rest of the Time vs SPD discussion, but my knees and ankles are far, far happier with Time float than the lack thereof with SPDs.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  25. #8775
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    Ask the experts

    Made the switch from SPDs to Times many years ago and have never looked back. Only negative for me is that you can float in and out laterally a little in them. Not a big deal. On road bikes I ride speed plays. My wife is that same setup. But for mtn or cross it’s Times.

    I’ve bent a pedal retainer bar a couple of times over the years. Big, big hits required to do that.

    It’s the only pedal I’ll ride on dirt and one of the only ones I trust in the air.

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