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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8676
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    Oct 2005
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    where everybody knows your name...
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Pinner Machine Shop has made some out of production King axles before. Hit him up.
    Sweet - thanks for the lead - I sent them a message.

    Cheers!


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  2. #8677
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    Is this worth a sand and re-paint or is it just going to look like this again quickly?

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  3. #8678
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    That hitch is obviously destroyed, and yer gonna die. Time to get a 1Up.

    Even powder coating can't withstand the forces and little movements in a hitch. I say don't bother. Slather on some grease if you're really worried about corrosion.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  4. #8679
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    Jan 2008
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    livin the dream
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    Not worth it.


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    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  5. #8680
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    Sep 2004
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    If you leave that rack in the hitch long term, I'd put some grease on the threaded section and on the insert. If it gets removed between uses, I wouldn't bother with anything.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #8681
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Seattle
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    5,347
    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    I just put an EXT Storia coil shock on my Sentinel, and it’s been amazing. Only thing is, it really highlights the shortcomings of my current fork, a Manitou Mezzer. My biggest gripe with the Manitou is the lack of small bump compliance, and a general feeling of harshness on high speed chattery stuff. The fork actually feels quite good on medium and larger hits, but I simply cannot get it to perform to my standards on the smaller stuff. I suspect the bushings are tight, which is fixable, but honestly I’m over it and want to try something else entirely.

    I come from a DH racing background, so I like to ride gnarly terrain at high speed, prioritize a planted hovercraft feel, and want maximum traction on chunky high speed nonsense. I weight 160lbs and ride fast but generally pretty smooth, and have never felt like 35-36mm forks were too flexy for me.

    So what’s the latest and greatest 160mm travel fork when it comes to plushness while still offering good support without being too massively heavy? I’ve thought about maybe snagging a Lyrik or 36 and putting a Smashpot in, or maybe one of the new RS Charger 3.0 forks(although it sounds like some people are finding these harsh?), or a fox 36 or 38? Or maybe an EXT ERA, although the price and lack of user serviceability are not the best. I’m also not opposed to aftermarket dampers, coil conversions, Secus’s, or whatever if that’s what it comes to, I just want my fork to be awesome for blasting down rocky mountainsides at Mach stupid.

    So mags, what 160mm forks are blowing your mind right now?
    Not to harsh your Gear Acquisition Syndrome but if you think the bushings are tight, it’s absolutely worth trying to get them fixed before buying a new fork. Tight bushings will make the best fork in the world ride like absolute shit.

    I got a 2021 36 Grip2 in 2020 and after a lot of pondering found that the bushings were indeed very tight. It was harsh on small bumps with poor traction. I pulled the damper and spring, and found that just sliding the lowers on the stanchions was tight and “notchy”. I compared it to a friends 36 and found them to feel totally different. I sent mine to Fox on warranty and it came back with no tight bushings or stiction at all. It’s super smooth and the best riding fork I’ve ever had. Lesson learned: quality control at the Fox factory does not exist, but if you send it in for warranty it will be serviced by someone who knows what they are doing. My local suspension tech says he sees this all the time from all manufacturers and more so since 2020 - suspension just not finished properly at the factory with no quality testing done.

  7. #8682
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    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    Is this worth a sand and re-paint or is it just going to look like this again quickly?

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    I’d do a quick wipe and coat with Boeshield.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  8. #8683
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    Apr 2008
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    Fresh brake bleed. (Saint)
    New rotors. (RT 66)
    New pads. (Trickstuff)
    Started squealing early in the bed in process.
    I’ve had this with all sorts of rotor-pad combos.
    What do mags do when squealing starts right away like this?


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    However many are in a shit ton.

  9. #8684
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Most of the time it goes away for me after a couple of hard, fast stops from at least 20mph.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  10. #8685
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    30,810
    last time it was problem I sanded pads & rotor, got driven to the top of a very steep very long hill and did panic stops all the way down
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #8686
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    Feb 2014
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    2,476
    Since Abus makes bike locks and some nice-looking padlocks, this thread seems appropriate to ask. Anybody have experience with there Diskus and/or Granit models? I need a lock for a storage unit and another one for a cable/chain. Thanks

  12. #8687
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    No first hand experience. But I went down a padlock rabbit hole when getting new bike locks. I learned you’re theft deterrent level is pretty solid if you spend the Abus $.
    Go with a shrouded shackle for maximum affect.


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    However many are in a shit ton.

  13. #8688
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    226
    Quote Originally Posted by SKIP IN7RO View Post
    Since Abus makes bike locks and some nice-looking padlocks, this thread seems appropriate to ask. Anybody have experience with there Diskus and/or Granit models? I need a lock for a storage unit and another one for a cable/chain. Thanks
    I have the Abus 12KS loop chain and one of their higher security u-locks (forget the exact model) to secure it to my rack or hitch. I like the u-lock better than the padlock since it offers more flexibility in what you lock the chain to. The loop chain is also nice since you can secure more bikes with a shorter chain, and given this chain is super heavy you don't want it any longer than necessary. I have a 250 cm chain and it easily secures 3 bikes on my 1up Rack, it could probably do a 4th.

  14. #8689
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    Oct 2003
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    I remember reading here a while back about about needle bearings for pivots. Some seemed to think it was a pretty big upgrade, what is the current thought? If I need to replace pivots is that the way to go or are enduromax pivots the standard?


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  15. #8690
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    2,476
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    No first hand experience. But I went down a padlock rabbit hole when getting new bike locks. I learned you’re theft deterrent level is pretty solid if you spend the Abus $.
    Go with a shrouded shackle for maximum affect.
    I have the Abus 12KS loop chain and one of their higher security u-locks (forget the exact model) to secure it to my rack or hitch. I like the u-lock better than the padlock since it offers more flexibility in what you lock the chain to. The loop chain is also nice since you can secure more bikes with a shorter chain, and given this chain is super heavy you don't want it any longer than necessary. I have a 250 cm chain and it easily secures 3 bikes on my 1up Rack, it could probably do a 4th.
    Thanks for the responses! I watched one youtube video this morning of the "lockpickinglawyer", and it took him 3+ minutes to pick an ABUS plus he needed some specialty tools. This was on their top-tier Granit locks, but I think some of the internals are shared with the Diskus models. I'll report back with some feedback on their locks in case anyone is interested.

  16. #8691
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    Dec 2007
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    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    I remember reading here a while back about about needle bearings for pivots. Some seemed to think it was a pretty big upgrade, what is the current thought? If I need to replace pivots is that the way to go or are enduromax pivots the standard?


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    I've had one or two bikes with needle bearings on key pivots. They were awful. Much, much more susceptible to contamination. I think from an engineering standpoint they may be better at handling loads, but they were horrible at handling mud. Caveat: that's based on a small sample size from ~7 years ago. There may be needle bearings that handle minor contamination better these days.

  17. #8692
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I've had one or two bikes with needle bearings on key pivots. They were awful. Much, much more susceptible to contamination. I think from an engineering standpoint they may be better at handling loads, but they were horrible at handling mud. Caveat: that's based on a small sample size from ~7 years ago. There may be needle bearings that handle minor contamination better these days.
    Yeah, they're better at handling high load/low rotation cases (like pivot bearings) but also go to shit pretty fast when dirt starts getting in there. Really good secondary sealing is key.

    In any case, you can't usually swap a roller bearing in for a standard ball cartridge — they're sized pretty differently. The frame needs to be designed around them.

  18. #8693
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    Feb 2014
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    NorCal coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    I remember reading here a while back about about needle bearings for pivots. Some seemed to think it was a pretty big upgrade, what is the current thought? If I need to replace pivots is that the way to go or are enduromax pivots the standard?


    Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
    Several years back, I got a RWC needle bearing kit for the coil shock on my Nomad 3. It made a massive difference on activation stiction (like, could push on the saddle with 1 finger and get a bit of shock movement). But I've heard that they wear out really fast. I sold the bike before I wore it out, so can't say.

  19. #8694
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    Oct 2003
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    Thanks all, sounds like I'll stick with what I know for the replacements.

  20. #8695
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    Jan 2009
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    Hyde Park, Vt
    Posts
    893
    anyone know what shock tune I should get for a Ibis Ripmo AF for a RS super Deluxe Ultimate.

  21. #8696
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    154
    Quote Originally Posted by ANDEH View Post
    Yeah, they're better at handling high load/low rotation cases (like pivot bearings) but also go to shit pretty fast when dirt starts getting in there. Really good secondary sealing is key.

    In any case, you can't usually swap a roller bearing in for a standard ball cartridge — they're sized pretty differently. The frame needs to be designed around them.
    The RWC needle bearing kits are ridiculous and add an insane amount of suppleness to the initial stroke to your shock. I haven't had a big issue with my wearing out prematurely, however.
    Last edited by Terrapin Ben; 08-16-2022 at 09:38 AM. Reason: fix quote

  22. #8697
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    Mar 2022
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    PNW
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    36
    Quote Originally Posted by SKIP IN7RO View Post
    Thanks for the responses! I watched one youtube video this morning of the "lockpickinglawyer", and it took him 3+ minutes to pick an ABUS plus he needed some specialty tools. This was on their top-tier Granit locks, but I think some of the internals are shared with the Diskus models. I'll report back with some feedback on their locks in case anyone is interested.
    Piggybacking off the ABUS lock discussion, does anyone know a retailer where you can buy a lock that matches an existing ABUS key? I want to add one of the folding granit locks to our e-bike but highly prefer for this lock to be keyed the same as the cafe lock already equipped. Thanks in advance!

  23. #8698
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    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Lifer View Post
    Piggybacking off the ABUS lock discussion, does anyone know a retailer where you can buy a lock that matches an existing ABUS key? I want to add one of the folding granit locks to our e-bike but highly prefer for this lock to be keyed the same as the cafe lock already equipped. Thanks in advance!
    1) go down the lockpickinglawyer rabbit hole and learn how to re-key lock cores
    2) locksmith.


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    However many are in a shit ton.

  24. #8699
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
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    793
    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Lifer View Post
    Piggybacking off the ABUS lock discussion, does anyone know a retailer where you can buy a lock that matches an existing ABUS key? I want to add one of the folding granit locks to our e-bike but highly prefer for this lock to be keyed the same as the cafe lock already equipped. Thanks in advance!
    +1 to this. Don’t want to start fresh, but haven’t found anyone in the US who can do this. Most can’t even do keyed alike if you are buying all new but in different models.

    i don’t think rekeying is an easy option with these disc detainer cores.

    at one point I thought about just switching to abus padlocks (and getting security chain) that take standard household cores … then I could have house and all bikes on the same key.

  25. #8700
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    in the brew room
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    2,340
    apologies if already covered but nothing in a quick search.

    noticed my sons front tire/wheell has a decent wobble to it. just using my finger as a guide it's def more tire than rim (tire maybe 1/4"+, rim more like an 1/8"). i checked the tire for defects and actually pulled it off to see if any sealant was built up and to make sure it was seated properly. no luck. don't have a truing stand. anything else to look for before i take it in to the shop?

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