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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #8401
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,958
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    Fuck the what? Pulled off my 12 speed shimano cassette, my free hub is HG. I didn't think hg 12 speed was a thing.
    It’s not as far as I know? Knockoff maybe labeled as shimano? There are Chinese 11-52 cassettes that use hyper glide. Where did it come from?

  2. #8402
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
    Posts
    3,808
    I came off an Orbea Wild H30. Spec shows, Shimano CS-M6100 10-51t 12-Speed.

  3. #8403
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,451
    Pandemic spec swap, perhaps? If It’s in the fine print, they can do it.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  4. #8404
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    8530' MST/200' EST
    Posts
    4,408
    ^most likely this. Send pic of csssette


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  5. #8405
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    1,250
    Quote Originally Posted by Lvovsky View Post
    Can’t get rid of squshiness in Tectro Orion 4F rear brake. Did full bleed with serenges twice.

    Did multiple burps with a funnel at the lever bleed port. 40 minutes plus of tapping on the line and flicking the brake and small bubbles are keep coming up. When they seem to stop and I close the system, I can still squish the lever all the way to the handle bar. Hang bike with front wheel up for a fee days, repeat the burp with funnel (another 40 minute of flicking and tapping) - same result.

    I used shimano oil. Did it not mix well with Tectro oil?

    I could have over extended one of the pistons. Did not see any oil coming out, pushed it back and it seems to operate fine but…. Is the air keep getting into the lines somehow?

    To add insult to injury, the brake is squeaking loudly right before it bites and fully stops the wheel. Ordered new pads and rotor to eliminate contamination issue.

    What’s next? Keep bleeding till i get it right? Bring it to a shop? Buy new caliper?

    Update: took the pads out and the back of the pad some oil residue. Cleaned the pads, rotor, and the cylinders. Really took my time with the cylinders to make them move smoother. Bled the brake. Scored the disk and pads with sandpaper. Put everything together. Aligned the caliper to the rotor as well as i could. Rode around to bed-in the pads and the noise was gone. Tested the bike few hours later: noise is back. Will take a kook at the pads tomorrow to see if there are any fresh fluids near the cylinders.

    And I can still pull the lever all the way close to the bar after the pads bite in…

    Emailed Tektro. They gave me a link to different bleed instructions : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoIc7olZ_w8&t=3s

    Performed recommended bleed, get improvements after lever purge, and bleed cup attached. But after removing the cup and closing the system, the sponginess comes back.

    Sending the brake to Tektro under warranty tomorrow.

  6. #8406
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,572
    Broke a crank and the shop put on a 12s chainring as it was all they had that was compatible. I've got an 11s drivetrain, am i going to die?

  7. #8407
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,451
    Yes.

    But hopefully not due to this chainring.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  8. #8408
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,928
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Ok, I have one. I have a ‘22 Fox DHX2. I just ordered an SLS spring, which doesn’t quite fit the existing plastic spacer/ ‘bottom’ of the spring. The spring I am running now measures (roughly) 37mm interior diameter, and the new SLS spring runs (roughly) 35mm.
    What will I need to get this running properly? I have done a crapload of googling, and haven’t found the answer. Did I order an older size SLS spring?
    Or do I just need a different size spring retainer (with the circlip)?
    Pics tomorrow if this is unclear.
    Does the shock have a reducer installed? Was the old spring also a fox?

  9. #8409
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    4,732
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    Fuck the what? Pulled off my 12 speed shimano cassette, my free hub is HG. I didn't think hg 12 speed was a thing.
    Are you sure your cassette is Shimano? Check the lockring.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  10. #8410
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,661
    Not sure Shimano make a 12 spd HH cassette, but SRAM has a lower end one. Have used it for a backup wheelset plenty.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #8411
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    Ok, a few pages back I asked about putting 12 speeds on an 11 speed driver; be advised that wide range shimano 11’s and also Sram NX 12’s use a shimano splined driver, not XD. I’m back to the drawing board, returning parts. Probably going to just go to GX 12 speed, for driver compatibility.


    Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
    Gravity always wins...

  12. #8412
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    16,857
    I might be imagining someone posting about this here:

    Bottom bracket/downtube protector on my GG Gnarvana started to peel away from the frame. Got so loose I just pulled it off by hand before losing it on the trail. Looks like it was held on with some type of 3M adhesive thing. Is there an updated/better way to glue this sucker on?

  13. #8413
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,888
    I like to use Scotch 30lb double sided tape.

  14. #8414
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    1,967
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I might be imagining someone posting about this here:

    Bottom bracket/downtube protector on my GG Gnarvana started to peel away from the frame. Got so loose I just pulled it off by hand before losing it on the trail. Looks like it was held on with some type of 3M adhesive thing. Is there an updated/better way to glue this sucker on?
    Contact GG. The adhesive they use seems very hit or miss. They'll send you new ones.

    That said, the replacements I've gotten for the CS protector don't seem to hold either. The replacement SS protector is holding nicely. I very carefully cut out a ton of little Gorilla double sided tape patches to fit the underside profile, and it's holding better so far.

  15. #8415
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    468
    I’ve found aquaseal to work well for glueing frame protection back on. Prep with a light scuff with scotch brite and isopropyl alcohol.

  16. #8416
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,978
    12 sp SLX RD will shift up the cassette just fine, but will not shift down the cassette from 1st. I backed off the barrel adjuster all the way and started from scratch, put just enough to tension on it that it will shift but still a few clicks from ideal, and it still won't shift back down the cassette. Limits seem fine.

    Ideas?

  17. #8417
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    12 sp SLX RD will shift up the cassette just fine, but will not shift down the cassette from 1st. I backed off the barrel adjuster all the way and started from scratch, put just enough to tension on it that it will shift but still a few clicks from ideal, and it still won't shift back down the cassette. Limits seem fine.

    Ideas?
    Not enough B tension and the guide pulley is hanging up on the granny gear is my guess.

  18. #8418
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    706
    If it’s not the B screw, maybe the clutch is sticky or too tight. Does it improve with the clutch off? I’ve seen that contribute to poor 1 > 2 shifting.

    What about worn or dirty shift cable or housing?

  19. #8419
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
    Posts
    2,104
    I would lean towards a cable/housing issue.

  20. #8420
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,172
    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    I would lean towards a cable/housing issue.
    This would be my guess too. Remove cable from derailleur, shift up/down and pull the cable through the housing with your fingers to see if there's excessive resistance.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  21. #8421
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,653
    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    I would lean towards a cable/housing issue.
    X3. I spent a ton of time troubleshooting this on my Trance X and this wound up being the issue.

  22. #8422
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,978
    I'm guessing HAB is right and the B-tension screw has backed itself out. If you gave a little tug on the cage it would shift. Not my bike and I threw it in the stand a bit late in the evening when my brain was already ready for bed. One of those "My shifting is acting a little weird, can you take look really fast?" situations, where "a little weird" = unrideable. Brain went full PC Load Letter error mode when I saw what was happening. I'll show myself to the Ask the Idiots thread now.

  23. #8423
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    351
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    I'm guessing HAB is right and the B-tension screw has backed itself out. If you gave a little tug on the cage it would shift. Not my bike and I threw it in the stand a bit late in the evening when my brain was already ready for bed. One of those "My shifting is acting a little weird, can you take look really fast?" situations, where "a little weird" = unrideable. Brain went full PC Load Letter error mode when I saw what was happening. I'll show myself to the Ask the Idiots thread now.
    Check the clutch lube as another has suggested as well. They need some TLC, I have found dumonde freehub grease to be the best stuff for maintenance since it seems to run a little longer than the shimano stuff.

  24. #8424
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,978
    Quote Originally Posted by Jtlange View Post
    Check the clutch lube as another has suggested as well. They need some TLC, I have found dumonde freehub grease to be the best stuff for maintenance since it seems to run a little longer than the shimano stuff.
    Will do, I have a jar of the Dumonde freehub grease already.

  25. #8425
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    706
    Let me know if you want to try the newer Shimano Shadow RD+ grease when you service the clutch (I’m in SLC close to I-street). I think they updated it when the 12-spd RD came out. I have a small container of it that will last me many years.

    Edit: I see Jt already mentioned the shimano grease. I may have to try Dumonde if it lasts longer.

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