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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #26
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    That Henty looks nice. I've been hating my pack when I go on longer rides... that may fill that niche.

  2. #27
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    Not a vest, but I'm very happy with my CamelBak Repack bum bag. It doesn't move. I use it on 3+ hour rides in combination with a large bottle on my frame. The pack comfortably holds 1.5 L of water, an AMR 0.5 first aid kit, a CO2, a tire lever, some zip ties, a patch kit, wallet, keys, phone, chap stick, gels & gummies. I can squeeze in a Patagonia Houdini windbreaker too if needed. I also have OneUp EDC tool in my stem and pump on the frame with all that crap (multi-tool, quick link, tire lever, bacon stabber, CO2).

    I hate being too warm, and will happily trade the extra breathability on my upper back for the dorkiness of a bum bag.

  3. #28
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    That Henty looks pretty nice actually (kind of like the Wingnuts), first time seeing it. The straps should add some nice stability to the bigger 3L bladder and I don't think you would notice them that much, nowhere near like a regular pack anyway.

    Like the Camelbak Repack I use the EVOC version, was contemplating hard between the two and decided the EVOC was better suited. I've been surprised how stable it is loaded up including the 1.5L bladder and a 750mL bottle in one of the holsters, my phone goes in the other for easy access. I added a bungee to the outside for a jacket carry in case I need. The newest version has an updated belt for even more stability.

    SWAT bibs up to 3 hours and then the fanny comes out for longer.

    *I suppose the one caveat when wearing bumbags (I assume) is that they work better for peeps with skinnier waists...although none of the dad-bods in my group complain.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    That Henty looks pretty nice actually (kind of like the Wingnuts), first time seeing it. The straps should add some nice stability to the bigger 3L bladder and I don't think you would notice them that much, nowhere near like a regular pack anyway.

    Like the Camelbak Repack I use the EVOC version, was contemplating hard between the two and decided the EVOC was better suited. I've been surprised how stable it is loaded up including the 1.5L bladder and a 750mL bottle in one of the holsters, my phone goes in the other for easy access. I added a bungee to the outside for a jacket carry in case I need. The newest version has an updated belt for even more stability.

    SWAT bibs up to 3 hours and then the fanny comes out for longer.

    *I suppose the one caveat when wearing bumbags (I assume) is that they work better for peeps with skinnier waists...although none of the dad-bods in my group complain.
    I ride most rides with the evoc, my frame says it will handle a bottle... but it really doesnít. The new version looks slick.


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  5. #30
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    I ripped my Osprey Raptor 10 on a low hanging branch, and needed something for while it was in the Opsrey warranty pipeline. I liked the looks of the Camelback vest, but I get wicked good deals on BD gear, so got this one instead: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com...g.html#start=4
    Super-comfortable, I hardly even know it is there. I carry a liter of water in a Platypus bladder, my first aid kit, and a light jacket. Pump lives in one of the long side pockets for the Z-poles. In the front pockets I have bars/ gels/ pen/ phone. Tools and tube are on the bike, and I have a bottle mount so I can fit a larger bike bottle if necessary. Works for up to 3-4 hours, then Osprey replaced my Raptor 10 with the 14, which I just used for long rides on the CT and TWE when I need to stash lots of layers from starting early and at altitude.

  6. #31
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    Experts:
    I pretty much only have experience with threaded bottom brackets. Which means, Iíve grown to really appreciate the fact that I can remove and replace a $25 Shim/Sram BB easily and without any fuss. And usually when I do pull my old BBs, itís like a swamp inside the shell. How does this play out with Press Fit? Should I be looking for BBs that are sealed better, or ones that are easier to service, or ones that are less creaky?


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    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Experts:
    I pretty much only have experience with threaded bottom brackets. Which means, Iíve grown to really appreciate the fact that I can remove and replace a $25 Shim/Sram BB easily and without any fuss. And usually when I do pull my old BBs, itís like a swamp inside the shell. How does this play out with Press Fit? Should I be looking for BBs that are sealed better, or ones that are easier to service, or ones that are less creaky?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I don't do anything different with press fit bb's in terms of what I buy. Whether it gets swampy in there probably has more to do with the frame. Same for creakiness - that's mostly the frame (and, ime, they all creak eventually).

    It's not that big a deal to replace a press fit bb. Same as threaded; just buy a moderately decent bb and replace it when it eventually dies.

  8. #33
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    I did just pick up a bike that uses a press fit bottom bracket, in what seems like the dumbest possible "improvement" I've seen from the bike industry in awhile: a BB92 (PF41) shell, with a 30mm crank spindle (Race Face Turbine). That leaves 11mm to fit the bearing and BB shell. Gotta be a tiny little bearing in there.

    When it fails, I'm swapping in a Shimano 24mm crank with a Wheels Mfg thread - together BB. That should hold up.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    I did just pick up a bike that uses a press fit bottom bracket, in what seems like the dumbest possible "improvement" I've seen from the bike industry in awhile: a BB92 (PF41) shell, with a 30mm crank spindle (Race Face Turbine). That leaves 11mm to fit the bearing and BB shell. Gotta be a tiny little bearing in there.

    When it fails, I'm swapping in a Shimano 24mm crank with a Wheels Mfg thread - together BB. That should hold up.
    After getting about a month of smooth operation out of a couple of Race Face Cinch bottom brackets, I splurged on an Enduro bearings bottom bracket where the bearings press directly into the bottom bracket shell, which gives more room for bigger bearings and seals.

    (https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...BB92X30SS.html).

    It has held up extremely well and is as smooth as the day I bought it after a full season.

    Just another option before you spend even more money on replacing your cranks.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    After getting about a month of smooth operation out of a couple of Race Face Cinch bottom brackets, I splurged on an Enduro bearings bottom bracket where the bearings press directly into the bottom bracket shell, which gives more room for bigger bearings and seals.

    (https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...BB92X30SS.html).

    It has held up extremely well and is as smooth as the day I bought it after a full season.

    Just another option before you spend even more money on replacing your cranks.
    I already have an extra 24mm Shimano crankset, so all I needed was the BB. Picked up the Wheels one recently from Backcountry/ Competitive -- they were on sale for around $55.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #36
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    Feb 2016
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    The wheels mfg threaded shell pf30 bbs are a bit pricey but fix all of the issues with pressfit. schwalbes addix rubber has improved their durability substantially, its at least as good as maxxis 3c. I find I wear maxxis tires faster.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    After getting about a month of smooth operation out of a couple of Race Face Cinch bottom brackets, I splurged on an Enduro bearings bottom bracket where the bearings press directly into the bottom bracket shell, which gives more room for bigger bearings and seals.
    (https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...BB92X30SS.html).
    It has held up extremely well and is as smooth as the day I bought it after a full season.
    Just another option before you spend even more money on replacing your cranks.
    These only work with long spindle BB30 cranks like RaceFace cinch after buying a longer spindle ($80) or random cranks like rotor 3D+ or e13. 90% of SRAM BB30 cranks have a short spindle and are not compatible. Again an aftermarket spindle and spacer would be required for your SRAM crank.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    These only work with long spindle BB30 cranks like RaceFace cinch after buying a longer spindle ($80) or random cranks like rotor 3D+ or e13. 90% of SRAM BB30 cranks have a short spindle and are not compatible. Again an aftermarket spindle and spacer would be required for your SRAM crank.
    I didnít need to buy a new spindle for my Turbine cranks.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Self Jupiter View Post
    Anyone with experience with these two packs?

    Henty Enduro
    https://henty.cc/shop/enduro-backpack/?setreg=us

    Camelback Chase Bike Vest
    https://www.camelbak.com/en/packs/mo...4aAiHBEALw_wcB

    Looking for an everyday pack to ride trails. Prefer a pack with h2o vs switching around on-bike storage, plus I like the option to carry more stuff if I wish to. Curious which ‘’rides better’’
    I have a never used Henty if anyone wants to buy one. (SOLD)
    Last edited by Eluder; 10-16-2019 at 09:06 AM.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  15. #40
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    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    I have a never used Henty if anyone wants to buy one.
    Pm incoming

  16. #41
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    Do rotors matter? Not wondering about size, wondering about brand, style, etc. I've always just used the Shimano 2 piece, imagining they're more resistant to warping. I've got some friends who swear by 3rd party floating rotors (Hope knock offs). But a lot of people seem to do just fine with cheap Sram 1- piece rotors.
    I definitely suck at truing rotors, and even when I do it seems to be a very temporary fix. Makes me feel like tossing them, but at $50/ea that's a hard thing.
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Do rotors matter? Not wondering about size, wondering about brand, style, etc. I've always just used the Shimano 2 piece, imagining they're more resistant to warping. I've got some friends who swear by 3rd party floating rotors (Hope knock offs). But a lot of people seem to do just fine with cheap Sram 1- piece rotors.
    I definitely suck at truing rotors, and even when I do it seems to be a very temporary fix. Makes me feel like tossing them, but at $50/ea that's a hard thing.
    Iíve had no issues with the cheapo RT-66s. They donít look as cool as the 2-piece rotors, though.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Do rotors matter? Not wondering about size, wondering about brand, style, etc. I've always just used the Shimano 2 piece, imagining they're more resistant to warping. I've got some friends who swear by 3rd party floating rotors (Hope knock offs). But a lot of people seem to do just fine with cheap Sram 1- piece rotors.
    I definitely suck at truing rotors, and even when I do it seems to be a very temporary fix. Makes me feel like tossing them, but at $50/ea that's a hard thing.
    Others do not share this opinion, but I actually don't give a shit about my rotors. I'm decent at truing them, which is important cause I tend to smack them into stuff, and on top of that I just buy cheap ones. I got like 12 of them at a bike swap (new Avids) for like $5-10 each and I'm just working through them.

    For whatever reason I find it easy to adapt to whatever brakes I happen to be using. I've had Juicys, Hayes, and now XTs, and as far as I'm concerned, they all work fine. Even have Avid Mechanicals on one bike, and while I wouldn't want them on my 575 ripping downhill, they are generally fine. I suppose this is odd because otherwise I am super anal about all things bike. Move my bars 2mm and I will slowly go crazy, for example...

    Anyway, my 2 cents.
    Last edited by beece; 10-15-2019 at 04:24 PM.

  19. #44
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    Thanks.
    Updated question:
    1. Related to repeated long, fast, brake cooking downhills........

    New question:
    2. Do you replace rotors with pads? Or do you keep rotors with old pads? Do you have problems with squealing? Because I do!
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Thanks.
    Updated question:
    1. Related to repeated long, fast, brake cooking downhills........

    New question:
    2. Do you replace rotors with pads? Or do you keep rotors with old pads? Do you have problems with squealing? Because I do!
    Doesn't matter. Pads will bed into the angle of the rotor based on whatever angle the caliper sits at.

    Squealing should go away once you get them bedded. If not, then you just have a bad rotor/frame mount/caliper combo. But squealing before pads are really bedded in is normal because the pad surface isn't flat against the rotor yet.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    Doesn't matter. Pads will bed into the angle of the rotor based on whatever angle the caliper sits at.

    Squealing should go away once you get them bedded. If not, then you just have a bad rotor/frame mount/caliper combo. But squealing before pads are really bedded in is normal because the pad surface isn't flat against the rotor yet.
    The two main cures I've found for squealing brakes are realigning the caliper to the rotor (related to above comment) and cleaning the rotor. Other stuff: I've had some mechanic friends try sanding the pads with mixed success. Make sure there's no crap embedded in the pads. Finally, all else fails, clean the rotor very well and replace the pads.

    No grease near rotors or pads ever ever ever. Keep your pads clean.

  22. #47
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    heh

    I spill fork or brake oil on my pads all the time. Just gotta burn it off with some good ass draggin brake hanging sections.

    Can't say I remember any grease incidents though.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  23. #48
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    If I replaced rotors with pads I'd be fucking broke.

    Clean your rotors with alcohol once in a while. True with a crescent wrench. They should last for years. They have minimum thickness printed on them (sometimes)

  24. #49
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    I used to be able to wear the IceTech rotors down to the alloy core. That's always gratifying.
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Here's my ask the experts question: when the side knobs tear off on the Schwalbe Nobby Nic that I currently have on the rear of my hardtail, is the tire going to hold air still? A bunch of the knobs are tearing from the base - undercut, basically.

    I got this stupid tire for cheap, but it sure didn't last long. Was pretty good for a couple rides, then got sketchy as summer trails got loose and dusty. If the knobs stay in place, I can use it for another month until winter sets in, then put on a fresh tire and new sealant in the spring. I'd rather not have to walk out of a trail with a shredded tire though.
    Quoting myself because I'm an an expert. Or stayed in a Holiday Inn last night...

    Replaced the worn down Schwalbe with a Maxxis Tomahawk that I had (came with the bike, thought I'd use the older Schwalbe first since it was sitting around for a couple of years). Tomahawk doesn't look like a tire I'd choose to buy, as the center knobs don't look great, and the side knobs are inexplicably shaped - but very well supported down the side.

    One ride in, and it's like a whole new bike, even on loose rocky stuff that I thought it wouldn't grip well on at all. Happy.

    TL;DR - Schwalbe sucks.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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