Page 269 of 364 FirstFirst ... 264 265 266 267 268 269 270 271 272 273 274 ... LastLast
Results 6,701 to 6,725 of 9095

Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #6701
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    27,600
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    All that wrestling and frantic pumping looks very unpleasant.
    Its funny, because for her strategy, a dry tire/rim allowed the bead to stay put once she wrestled it in place. But for the air pumping, shes fighting that same dry friction with the pump.
    One thing thats rarely discussed with the more typical soapy water routine is why the soapy water helps. Most people think its to create some resistance against escaping air. It also goes a long way in letting the bead slip up onto the rim.
    I seen a vid that talked about using JUST the suds to lube the rim so you wana get as little water as you can on the rim & tire

    I tried it once and I thot it worked well
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #6702
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,257
    ^^ same. Have used liquid soap applied to bead and rim as well for good results.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #6703
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    1,357
    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    What size is your Commencal, and how tall are you?

    I'm considering flipping my Norco and getting something a bit longer. I'm not sure how much longer to go. I'm 5'8" and ride medium trail bikes (450ish reach).
    Same height, same reach preference. I got their size medium.

  4. #6704
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    7,575
    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    ^^ same. Have used liquid soap applied to bead and rim as well for good results.
    I'm surprised how rarely anyone says "heat up the tires first." I changed some motorcycle tires this summer and between dish soap on the bead and an hour laying in the sun, the giant tire irons weren't even necessary. This time of year, keeping the rims cold should be easy.
    A woman came up to me and said "I'd like to poison your mind
    with wrong ideas that appeal to you, though I am not unkind."

  5. #6705
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Van
    Posts
    3,608
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Same height, same reach preference. I got their size medium.
    I stopped by Commencal in Squamish today and pedalled the medium Absolut around inside the showroom. The size felt pretty good, though the front end felt low. Id definitely try some higher rise bars. Obviously these are very preliminary impressions, and Id have to give the bike a proper try.
    Last edited by D(C); 01-08-2022 at 10:03 PM.

  6. #6706
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    7,254
    I want to convert my 2016 Beargrease fatbike to a 1x. How do you figure out the spacing for the chainring? Do you buy new cranks or can you use the original? And what else don't I know?...aside from everything.

  7. #6707
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,069
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    I want to convert my 2016 Beargrease fatbike to a 1x. How do you figure out the spacing for the chainring? Do you buy new cranks or can you use the original? And what else don't I know?...aside from everything.
    1) what kind of chainring mount do your existing cranks have? Will the cranks take a direct mount ring, or do you have to mount to a spider? Note that some cranks have a spider, but the spider can be removed so a direct mount ring can be attached.
    If direct mount is an option, you'll have a bit more flexibility - you can get rings with different offsets (0mm, 3mm and 6mm are fairly common), and those rings can be run either "forward" or "backward" to get the offset inward or outward. If direct mount isn't an option, then you mostly just need to decide which side of the spider you're going to mount to. If you're mounting to a spider, you can also space the chainring out from the spider (which will require longer bolts and a spacer kit).

    2) Look at your bottom bracket. Are there spacers? Are the spacers on the drive or non drive side? Swapping those spacers will shift your cranks and chainring (usually 2.5mm per spacer) in one direction or the other.

    3) Shift your chain into the middle of the cassette and sight down the chain from the rear. It should be pretty close to a straight line to your chainring. If it's straight, great - that's where you want your new chainring to be; buy accordingly. If it's not straight, use the available adjustments in #1 and 2 to get the chainring where it needs to be so the chainline is as straight as possible.

    4) If your adjustments require moving the chainring inboard, be careful you don't run into clearance issues with the chainstay. Also, if you spend the vast majority of your time at one end of the cassette or the other, you can consider spacing the chainring in or out to have your chainline be straighter in the gears you're usually in. This means that your chain will be extra not-straight at the other end of the cassette though.

  8. #6708
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    7,254
    ^ thank you so much!

    Surely I will fuck this all up! Live and learn!

  9. #6709
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    7,120
    random q - anyone have a good hack/option for bike trainer use with a 20 or 16 inch tire? Would love to get my kids doing some pedal practice in the winter, but doesn't seem to be much out there.

  10. #6710
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    19,593
    Quote Originally Posted by schuss View Post
    random q - anyone have a good hack/option for bike trainer use with a 20 or 16 inch tire? Would love to get my kids doing some pedal practice in the winter, but doesn't seem to be much out there.
    Rollers with a front wheel stand or front dropout mount?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #6711
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,257
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Rollers with a front wheel stand or front dropout mount?
    I had an old Cyclops Fluid and they make an adapter for 16/20" though I found even the lowest fluid resistance was pretty tough for them, so didn't get used often. The roller suggestion is likely a better one, hacked something for novelty for my daughter, but wouldn't expect too much in my experience. Think the longest one kid lasted on Zwift was ~10 minutes.

  12. #6712
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Saratoga Springs, NY
    Posts
    1,590
    Quote Originally Posted by schuss View Post
    random q - anyone have a good hack/option for bike trainer use with a 20 or 16 inch tire? Would love to get my kids doing some pedal practice in the winter, but doesn't seem to be much out there.
    My kids have a lot of fun pedaling on a 16" bike mounted in Cycleops Fluid2. Bike has just has axle bolt ends or whatever you call it. Tire doesn't even come close to touching the resistance unit. I don't know or care if this a "correct" solution, the kids have a lot of fun with it. If you want to add some resistance, I bet a bit of brake drag would be plenty for a kid.

  13. #6713
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Donner Summit
    Posts
    1,145
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Rollers with a front wheel stand or front dropout mount?
    Just let em learn to ride rollers for real - they'll pick it up after a few wipeouts. Then have them try no hands.

    Could use a direct drive ("wheel off") trainer with something to raise the front wheel more than usual. Also makes it easier to deal with knobby tires. And an excuse to upgrade your trainer.

  14. #6714
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Nhampshire
    Posts
    7,120
    Quote Originally Posted by teledad View Post
    Just let em learn to ride rollers for real - they'll pick it up after a few wipeouts. Then have them try no hands.

    Could use a direct drive ("wheel off") trainer with something to raise the front wheel more than usual. Also makes it easier to deal with knobby tires. And an excuse to upgrade your trainer.
    As much as I'm a fan of unreasonable kid purchases (my son has a nice steel singlespeed with 20 inch wheels), a direct drive trainer feels like it's pushing it. Also already bought the neobike...

  15. #6715
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    27,600
    Any parent who really wants to be unreasonable needs to get their kid a 16" spawn, the kid will ride further faster and the bike will have great resale
    Last edited by XXX-er; 01-10-2022 at 04:52 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #6716
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
    Posts
    3,689
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    ^ thank you so much!

    Surely I will fuck this all up! Live and learn!
    If you end up having to compromise one way or the other, mount it so your driveline works better in the low (big sprokets) gears. Unless you ride your fat bike on the road all the time then WTF are you thinking?

  17. #6717
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    7,254
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    If you end up having to compromise one way or the other, mount it so your driveline works better in the low (big sprokets) gears. Unless you ride your fat bike on the road all the time then WTF are you thinking?
    Yeah, I break trail a lot, so granny gear is key. But once it gets packed it really does become fast or faster. As a reference many strava koms at places like Fort Rock are from winter snow rides. We have a lot of rock and roots. Snow creates a buff paved highway when conditions are perfect.

  18. #6718
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    15,328
    New bike (GG Gnarvana) is setup for 180mm rear rotor using IS mount. Swapping the wheels over from my old bike before I sell it. Old wheels have 200mm rotors. Am I just brain fogged or can I not find an IS adaptor to allow for 200mm rear rotor?

    Edit: nevermind....I see I need a 60mm IS to bring the rear up to 200mm.

  19. #6719
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    1,357
    Don't forget to redish the wheels.

  20. #6720
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    3,499
    Had a grand old time sourcing a IS adapter to make Hayes brakes work on the Gnarvana with the pile of 203 rotors I have on hand... Then I read about re-dishing the wheel. Then I found a seized bearing in my not very old frame.
    Good thing it's ski season and I can dabble with the build for a couple hours here and there or I'd be pissed!
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  21. #6721
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    15,328
    Redish wheels? Huh?

    I've moved wheels from bike to bike all kinds of times. These are stiff carbon wheels.

  22. #6722
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Can/USA
    Posts
    1,476

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    New bike (GG Gnarvana) is setup for 180mm rear rotor using IS mount. Swapping the wheels over from my old bike before I sell it. Old wheels have 200mm rotors. Am I just brain fogged or can I not find an IS adaptor to allow for 200mm rear rotor?

    Edit: nevermind....I see I need a 60mm IS to bring the rear up to 200mm.
    You are selling the SB150??

    Oops. Just see the for sale thread right below this! Too small unfortunately!!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  23. #6723
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    15,328
    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    You are selling the SB150??

    Oops…. Just see the for sale thread right below this! Too small unfortunately!!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Dummy priced.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3240896/

  24. #6724
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Live Free or Die
    Posts
    1,249
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Redish wheels? Huh?

    I've moved wheels from bike to bike all kinds of times. These are stiff carbon wheels.
    GG bikes with the aluminum rear triangle have a 3mm offset on the rear wheel.

  25. #6725
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    15,328
    Quote Originally Posted by geomorph View Post
    GG bikes with the aluminum rear triangle have a 3mm offset on the rear wheel.
    Very interesting and I have never heard of this with any other bikes I have had. I guess the dudes at the shop would know how to do this? Is it easy to re-dish a wheel at home? I have spoke wrenches etc. I work on every part of my bike, but never fuck with wheel building.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •