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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #6601
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,427
    Squeeling rear brake issue. Bought a used spawn Yama Jama for my son. The rear brake had a squeal and I assumed a good cleaning would fix it. removed pads and rotor, isopropyl alcohol, rubbed the pads on dry wall paper, the rotors with wet/dry sandpaper. Alcohol and torch cleaned the rotors. Reassembled. Front is great.

    Rear has a squeal, but only if I try to lock up the rear. There is good modulation, but requires a sold pull (on hydraulics) to lock up the rear and it squeals first. Super high pitch.

    The rear pads did not clean as well as the front. The rear rotor has a little more wear, but still inside the realm of not too worn. Have not looked at the oil line yet.

    Could new pads fix this? New rotor? New Oil? All three? Wondering if I am missing something. Never dealt with a rotor I could not clean and get the sound away. Tektro hydraulics Auriga brakes and rotors. Generic pads on there.

  2. #6602
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
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    3,689
    Iso the living shit out of your rotors and calipers. Check for hyraulic fluid leaks. Install new pads. Readjust your caliper (loosen attachment bolts, realign caliper)

  3. #6603
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    2,013
    Sure sounds like contaminated pads. Not unusual at all for the pad cooking process to fail. New pads, and clean the rotor again with alcohol before installing said pads.

  4. #6604
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    san diego
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    3,178
    Does cleaning pads with iso and then sanding them down a bit work? I had a caliper leak oil all over pads and rotor on my last trip. I put on spare brake and new pads/rotor at the time, but would like to renew the oiled pads/rotor since both were pretty new.

    I think the caliper (deore) may be a lost cause though I may be able to combine with another brakeset (xt) that had a failed hose to make one functional set.

  5. #6605
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    san diego
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    3,178
    Quote Originally Posted by tellybele View Post
    After some time on the moto, I'll bet you can marry up your MTB with the moto for endless smiles and your MTB/Moto prowess will increase. Other than climbing, I think it's the best complimentary activity to MTB. Have fun and most of all, heal well!
    Moto and MTB combine nicely especially for MTB ride logistics. Moto also makes fire roads fun again for exploring.


  6. #6606
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Donner Summit
    Posts
    1,145
    Quote Originally Posted by JPaul View Post
    ^ I had the same thing, but only on the left-side arms. Loosening them occasionally has been working, will hit it with Loctite next time!
    Mine got so bad recently that I managed to snap the bolt (connecting the left side arm to the strap assembly). Didn't even have a wrench on it, I was just ratcheting down the arms to hold a bike when it snapped. 1up is sending a replacement, in the meantime I checked the rest of the bolts and made sure they were OK. Loosening the nut until the bolt spins seems sufficient.

  7. #6607
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,796
    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Does cleaning pads with iso and then sanding them down a bit work? I had a caliper leak oil all over pads and rotor on my last trip. I put on spare brake and new pads/rotor at the time, but would like to renew the oiled pads/rotor since both were pretty new.

    I think the caliper (deore) may be a lost cause though I may be able to combine with another brakeset (xt) that had a failed hose to make one functional set.
    I've had decent luck cooking the fluid off the pads. Lots of ways to do it (torch, gas stove burner, douse with alcohol and ignite), just be careful not to get it so hot that the material separates from the metal. They're gonna feel like shit for a bit afterwards. Rubbing some dirt on the pads and rotor has always helped. :shrug:
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  8. #6608
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Driggs
    Posts
    461
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Wonder how much for a plumber to run a hot pipe to the outside of the house?
    If your heater or a hot pipe is close to where you want it, it shouldn't be too terrible. And with the magic of shark bite fittings it's probably an easy afternoon task.

    And it's so worth it. I've only gotten to experience the magic of a heated rinse station once, but after a disgusting PNW day it was incredibly worth it. And you can rinse all your gear and your body off comfortably as well, which saves on aggravation with significant others when you track filthy gear into the house and throw it in their nice washing machine.

  9. #6609
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    void
    Posts
    358
    Or just get a hand pump pressure sprayer and fill it with hot water for like $20.

  10. #6610
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    2,112
    Last house had hot & cold water in the garage, it was tits.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  11. #6611
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    5,793
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    So in a Drug-induced moment, I just tried to order an electric hot water ‘pressure’ washer. I have never shopped for such a thing. I don’t really care about the pressure, but a hot water rinse would be perfect for rinsing off the soils around here. And I could use it for driveway/car/deck tasks.
    Saw some cheap ones, no heat, or more expensive gas ones, which I don’t want.
    Then I found the one! A Hotsy 333.
    Goddamn, it is $3300.
    Wonder how much for a plumber to run a hot pipe to the outside of the house?
    In the winter I drop this into a bucket of hot water.
    Works a charm when I don't swing by the hot-water car wash.

    Worx Hydroshot

  12. #6612
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    5,793
    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Does cleaning pads with iso and then sanding them down a bit work? I had a caliper leak oil all over pads and rotor on my last trip. I put on spare brake and new pads/rotor at the time, but would like to renew the oiled pads/rotor since both were pretty new.

    I think the caliper (deore) may be a lost cause though I may be able to combine with another brakeset (xt) that had a failed hose to make one functional set.
    Sanding works if they're glazed or need a refresh, but I've never been able to cook a contaminant out of them.
    Rotors on the other hand, clean up real nice with alcohol.

  13. #6613
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    33,049
    Quote Originally Posted by Billow View Post
    Or just get a hand pump pressure sprayer and fill it with hot water for like $20.
    I like the way you think, not such a bad idea! Just have to rinse the weed killer out of it…
    Today I had a hot tub that needed emptying, and a completely gobbed up bike. Put 2 & 2 together, and gave the bike a good bath at 104 degrees, worked a charm!
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  14. #6614
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
    Posts
    3,689
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    So in a Drug-induced moment, I just tried to order an electric hot water ‘pressure’ washer. I have never shopped for such a thing. I don’t really care about the pressure, but a hot water rinse would be perfect for rinsing off the soils around here. And I could use it for driveway/car/deck tasks.
    Saw some cheap ones, no heat, or more expensive gas ones, which I don’t want.
    Then I found the one! A Hotsy 333.
    Goddamn, it is $3300.
    Wonder how much for a plumber to run a hot pipe to the outside of the house?
    Just get a long hose and hook up in your laundry room. How often do you really need hot water? Is it worth the hassle/expense to avoid the inconvenience of a hose out the window on occasion?
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  15. #6615
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    33,049
    Intriguing solution.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  16. #6616
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    lake level
    Posts
    1,467
    Shimano 12 speed cranks - or, more specifically, the tool to install the lockring for the direct mount chainring - is that the same as the tool for the threaded bottom bracket? Looks pretty damn close, but saw a bottom bracket tool measured at 4.2cm and a chainring lockring tool claiming 41mm. Compatible, or is Shimano really fucking with people like that?
    I really lack the words to compliment myself today. - Alberto Tomba

  17. #6617
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    2,013
    Quote Originally Posted by mmmm...pow! View Post
    Shimano 12 speed cranks - or, more specifically, the tool to install the lockring for the direct mount chainring - is that the same as the tool for the threaded bottom bracket? Looks pretty damn close, but saw a bottom bracket tool measured at 4.2cm and a chainring lockring tool claiming 41mm. Compatible, or is Shimano really fucking with people like that?
    Different tool. Lockring uses Shimano TL-FC41 tool or equivalent.

    https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...002-08-ENG.pdf

  18. #6618
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,796

    Ask the experts

    Same pattern but good luck getting anything other than the DM specific tool to grip the tiny recesses. LRT-4 is the Park tool.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  19. #6619
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    27,599
    To swap the chain ring on a race face Affect crank I used an old tool I had in the tool box from > 20 yrs ago, i think it was the cassette lock ring tool ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #6620
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,069
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    To swap the chain ring on a race face Affect crank I used an old tool I had in the tool box from > 20 yrs ago, i think it was the cassette lock ring tool ?
    It's the old BB tool.

  21. #6621
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    lake level
    Posts
    1,467
    Feeling impatient, I said screw it, went for the monkey wrench. Seems to have worked, obviously not torqued to spec, but it does have the spring loaded washer deally so I'm feeling confident. Now, about those two spacers that come with the cranks. Optional? It seems with the spacers the non drive crank is coming up a bit short on contact with the spindle, but without the spindle will extend a bit past the crank. Use one? Which side? Also, since I got rid of my last pair of shimano cranks a few years ago, I "misplaced" the preload tool. Any ideas better than just giving it a few love taps with a mallet and calling it good?
    I really lack the words to compliment myself today. - Alberto Tomba

  22. #6622
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    27,599
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    It's the old BB tool.
    Well there you go ^^ I remember thinking wow instead of making us buy a new tool they are repurposing an old one
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #6623
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    12,069
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Well there you go ^^ I remember thinking wow instead of making us buy a new tool they are repurposing an old one
    Raceface is actually pretty good about making their stuff compatible with existing tools, which I appreciate. Makes me somewhat more willing to overlook the high failure rate of their carbon cranks.

  24. #6624
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    san diego
    Posts
    3,178
    Quote Originally Posted by mmmm...pow! View Post
    Shimano 12 speed cranks - or, more specifically, the tool to install the lockring for the direct mount chainring - is that the same as the tool for the threaded bottom bracket? Looks pretty damn close, but saw a bottom bracket tool measured at 4.2cm and a chainring lockring tool claiming 41mm. Compatible, or is Shimano really fucking with people like that?
    No one local had the shimano tool in stock so I ordered this one on amazon - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I already had something that worked on the BB, which interestingly works on the outer splines of this tool as well.

  25. #6625
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    2,013
    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    I already had something that worked on the BB, which interestingly works on the outer splines of this tool as well.
    Same with the Shimano tool. You use the almost identical BB tool to turn the chainring tool (or 32mm/adjustable wrench)

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