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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #6451
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    A 29" Nobl tr37 rim is 450 grams for the front, 515g for the rear.

    A 29" dt swiss ex511 rim is a good quality aluminum equivalent, and it weighs 570 grams.

    So assuming identical hubs and spokes, you're saving about 175g of rotating weight. That's not nothing.

    And if you're less smashy, there's even more weight to be saved (relative to their aluminum equivalents) on the more xc oriented carbon wheels.

  2. #6452
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    You lose the Peteís Hill KOM?
    "If you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough."

  3. #6453
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    Anyone have any experience with Zipp 3Zero Moto carbon rims? Seems like an interested concept but not aware of anyone using them (yet)?

  4. #6454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredeagle View Post
    <snip> The bike used to feel a lot more spritely when I had the Exo on there, but those tires never lasted very long on the rides I like to do.
    They still won't. I wouldn't trust EXO as a rear tire EVER, to be completely frank. But I like smashy rides.

  5. #6455
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    They still won't. I wouldn't trust EXO as a rear tire EVER, to be completely frank. But I like smashy rides.
    X2. DD at a minimum for me.

    That's the nice thing about carbon rims - less weight but without durability downsides. Lots of weight to be saved with tires, but it comes with significant reductions in durability..

  6. #6456
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    I asked shop bro for his take on Carbon cuz he swapped the same set among a few enduro bikes I think it was that brand out of Kamloops, he said they probably weighed about the same as aluminium but they never went out of true/ the spokes never got loose so the big thing for him was NO maintenance

    I don't seem to have wheel issues so I'm gona pass
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #6457
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    never went out of true
    I experienced another side of that benefit last weekend when I flung a big cobble into my spokes. I had a moment of panic when I heard the noise, thought my entire wheel and drivetrain had exploded but no, just 2 spokes on the drive side cleanly broken. I twisted the stubs around the neighboring spokes to get them out of the way, spun the wheel which was still perfectly true, and went on to merrily smash my way down the trail. I replaced the 2 spokes that night, re-tensioned everything, wheel is back to looking like new.

    Before flying to France last month I ditched my worn out summer rubber (2.4/2.5 Maxxis) and mounted some fresh 2.3 Specialized tires. My usual pressures felt off when squeezing the tires so I went with what felt right given the conditions (loamy with a chance of wet as shit roots). That turned out to be significantly too low on the 1st ride. The rear took a number of massive hits which would have dinged the shit of my alu DT rims but, other than loudly complaining and occasionally burping a drop of sealant, handled it like a champ.

    I kinda miss the buttery feeling or alu in the rear but given my propensity to damage things I think carbon is the way to go for me.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  8. #6458
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    I experienced another side of that benefit last weekend when I flung a big cobble into my spokes. I had a moment of panic when I heard the noise, thought my entire wheel and drivetrain had exploded but no, just 2 spokes on the drive side cleanly broken. I twisted the stubs around the neighboring spokes to get them out of the way, spun the wheel which was still perfectly true, and went on to merrily smash my way down the trail. I replaced the 2 spokes that night, re-tensioned everything, wheel is back to looking like new.
    This was my 1st experience with carbon wheels - was on a fairly big-ish backcountry ride and broke a couple spokes on a rowdy descent. Did the same as you... continued on my way. Wheel never went out of true and I finished the ride with little drama.

    I *did* have the wheel rebuilt with standard DT Swiss DB spokes instead of the weird "aero" spokes I had the wheel built with. Still not sure about those spokes...

  9. #6459
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    I *did* have the wheel rebuilt with standard DT Swiss DB spokes instead of the weird "aero" spokes I had the wheel built with. Still not sure about those spokes...
    Depends on the spokes, but a lot of the aero spokes are actually stronger.


  10. #6460
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Depends on the spokes, but a lot of the aero spokes are actually stronger.
    I've heard rumors of this... but every one broke where the spoke went from round to "aero" and I just couldn't bring myself to try them again. I did run with those spokes up front and never had any issues...

  11. #6461
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    I hit a downed tree at speed a few years ago with a set of enve carbon rims. It ruined the tire (big wobble afterwards) and went terribly out of true. I figured I ruined the rim. Took it to a shop where they looked it over, trued it up, might have replaced a few spokrs, but ultimately sent me on my way. They ran great for years afterwards.

    My body was not as resilient as those rims and I'm certain that would have tacoed an aluminum rim.

    Seth

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

  12. #6462
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    I've heard rumors of this... but every one broke where the spoke went from round to "aero" and I just couldn't bring myself to try them again. I did run with those spokes up front and never had any issues...
    Yeah, it really depends on the spoke. I've had some generic aero spokes from some random asian company - those things all started breaking after ~1000 miles. But I've only managed to break one Sapim CX-Ray ever, and that was when I smashed a large rock into it. But those things are fucking expensive, so they'd better hold up really well.

  13. #6463
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Yeah, it really depends on the spoke. I've had some generic aero spokes from some random asian company - those things all started breaking after ~1000 miles. But I've only managed to break one Sapim CX-Ray ever, and that was when I smashed a large rock into it. But those things are fucking expensive, so they'd better hold up really well.
    Yeah - these were Gen-1 Light Bicycle crabon rims, so I expect they were built with generic aero spokes... but don't really know for sure.

  14. #6464
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Yeah, it really depends on the spoke. I've had some generic aero spokes from some random asian company - those things all started breaking after ~1000 miles. But I've only managed to break one Sapim CX-Ray ever, and that was when I smashed a large rock into it. But those things are fucking expensive, so they'd better hold up really well.
    CX-Ray are pretty phenomenal but pricey, have run them on a few race wheels over the years, actually make truing them a bit easier as you immediately know if they're twisting. I've broken a few, but all(?) of them from sucking a big stick.

    Have had a CX ray spoke pull through the rim of a carbon reynolds black label a few years back. Immediately warrantied, but does speak to the spoke strength I think. I was hauling down a descent and hit a square edge waterbar/rock hard.

    Have also broken a few spokes on a Roval carbon wheelset and rim stays really true, but did lead me to putting in an insert to dampen the impacts a bit. Ride alloy rims on other bikes and think the weight/ride difference is a bit overblown in most cases.

  15. #6465
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtdrew View Post

    What are the advantages of carbon over a good DTswiss alloy rim? .
    I've recently gone carbon for reasons out of my control.wush I'd have gone carbon donkeys ago. They feel more spritely and faster folks say they feel more harsh but I've not felt that



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    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

  16. #6466
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    CX-Ray are pretty phenomenal but pricey, have run them on a few race wheels over the years, actually make truing them a bit easier as you immediately know if they're twisting. I've broken a few, but all(?) of them from sucking a big stick.

    Have had a CX ray spoke pull through the rim of a carbon reynolds black label a few years back. Immediately warrantied, but does speak to the spoke strength I think. I was hauling down a descent and hit a square edge waterbar/rock hard.

    Have also broken a few spokes on a Roval carbon wheelset and rim stays really true, but did lead me to putting in an insert to dampen the impacts a bit. Ride alloy rims on other bikes and think the weight/ride difference is a bit overblown in most cases.
    Did the insert stop the breaking spokes?

    Iím running a stock Trek SlashXT and was breaking 1-2 spokes a week toward the end of lift served.

  17. #6467
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    So far yes, but hasn't been too many rides to say for sure, also bumped my travel up to 160/140 from 130/120 which probably smooths things out. I broke probably 3-4 last season over about 1500 miles and this season broke 1-2 but that was from a really dumb line through some rocks and roots.

  18. #6468
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredeagle View Post
    I've got a 2019 Transition Patrol and its heavy AF. Looking to make it feel less sluggish and roll a bit better. I'm thinking losing some of weight on the rear wheel would be my best bet. I have a hydra hub, on a heavy spank rim. What would be the lightest strongest carbon rim I could upgrade to that is going to withstand a beating? I get a wellness bonus at work to use on stuff like this, so I'm not super worried about the cost. Those Nobl TR37s look pretty sweet. Is there something better if I'm willing to spend a bit more?
    Iíve been very impressed with my Crank Bros Synthesis E Carbon. I normally hate anything and everything CB but Iíve wailed on mine for years now and theyíre still as true and tension balanced as when I built them up.

  19. #6469
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Random question that I've never tested.

    Does a narrower MTB tire (like a 2.1 or 2.2) roll faster than a 2.35 on firm terrain? I'm looking at a few long bikepacking trips that'll be mostly dirt roads, some paved and just a little singletrack. Just wondering about ideal tires, I've only ridden 2.3 and above for the last decade plus.

    I'm doing the white rim in a week so I'm thinking that might be a good place to test something narrower.
    White rim isnít a good ride to push into narrower tires due to some of the sandy sections. Vittoria Mezcal 2.35 or something similar will be plenty fast rolling.

  20. #6470
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudy View Post
    Anyone have any experience with Zipp 3Zero Moto carbon rims? Seems like an interested concept but not aware of anyone using them (yet)?
    Iíve ridden them extensively, and liked them a lot. Theyíre heavy for carbon hoops but the ride quality is excellent, and I never once pinched riding them.

    Speaking of which, I have a set laced to XD Original Onyx hubs Iíd be willing to part with now that my bike quiver is fully switched over to Shimano.

  21. #6471
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    How hard is it to swap Magura brake lever blades? Or do I need to swap the entire brake lever assembly?

    I've got a set of MT7s and MT5s, and I may want to switch them at some point this winter.

  22. #6472
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    Probably easier than not stripping the bleed port screw out. I believe I did swap to the single finger levers when I had some MT brakes, but it was ~4 bikes ago. I do remember not having to swap the entire assembly out.
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  23. #6473
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    Easy. You just peel back the sticker plate, then gently tap out the pivot pin with a punch. I recall there being a video from Magura with some tips on it.

  24. #6474
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    OK, how do I make a Kinetic trainer though axle adapter work with the hanger on a Salsa Warbird? The hanger is held in place by an axle stud cap nut, but the adapter won't fit through the 8mm hex opening on the nut -


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    I could drill out the nut enough for the adapter to pass through, but then tightening / removing the nut becomes an issue. Seem like a collar that protrudes past the frame and fits both over the axle stud and inside the frame hole would allow the nut on the adapter to hold the hanger in place? Shirley this has been solved somewhere?

  25. #6475
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skistack View Post
    OK, how do I make a Kinetic trainer though axle adapter work with the hanger on a Salsa Warbird? The hanger is held in place by an axle stud cap nut, but the adapter won't fit through the 8mm hex opening on the nut -


    Name:  Screenshot 2021-11-12 095332.png
Views: 362
Size:  37.8 KB

    I could drill out the nut enough for the adapter to pass through, but then tightening / removing the nut becomes an issue. Seem like a collar that protrudes past the frame and fits both over the axle stud and inside the frame hole would allow the nut on the adapter to hold the hanger in place? Shirley this has been solved somewhere?
    Google the Robert Axle Project, they make a solution for this exact problem

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