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Thread: Ask the experts
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09-24-2021, 09:54 PM #6151
that must have been a poor repair but I sometimes make excuses/reasons also to get cool new stuff. I'm constantly looking for fresh reasons to keep stock rotation high
Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile appi dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum
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09-28-2021, 01:30 PM #6152have not
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Location
- the tinfoil aisle
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- 1,531
"Tell him what he's won, Bob!"
The answer to my original question is - I was indeed missing something, as you described, confirmed by Oneup.
Liking the extra 35mm drop over my 175mm transfer, although it definitely feels like it cost half of what the fox retails for.
Thanks all for the insights.
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09-28-2021, 01:47 PM #6153
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09-28-2021, 02:09 PM #6154
Dang, that sucks. I broke the little rubber thing, and ran it without it for a year and a half, even at bike parks and was fine. I did find that for it to stay secure in the bracket you have to run it upside down, with the head of the pump facing your bottom bracket, and the butt of the pump facing the head tube. With the pump in that orientation, I've never had it come loose, but with it the other way, it came off even with the rubber strap on occasion.
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09-28-2021, 02:23 PM #6155
I buy a new o-ring kit for mine once a year and it includes a new rubber strap. Also run it upside down, I do this on my theory that the stuff is less likely to fall out facing up, whether or not that actually has any substance to it it makes me feel better. I have the tool and more important stuff in the steerer tube and just like some duct tape and zip ties, etc in the pump.
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09-29-2021, 08:14 PM #6156
What type of patches are recommended for a small sidewall cut? I was able to plug it and finish the ride. Since the tire is pretty new, I’d like a more reliable fix so I can keep running it.
Apologies if this has been covered.
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09-29-2021, 09:03 PM #6157
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09-29-2021, 09:19 PM #6158
Thanks. I now remember reading that around Page 137 of this thread.
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09-29-2021, 10:48 PM #6159
Honestly, I’ve gotten a ton of miles out of standard old school glue patches. Even when the hole is big enough the orange patch rubber is visible. I’ve never repunctured a patch.
That said, if a patch is holding air now, you’re probably wasting time with a patch. I’ve had plugs go from day 2 to bald rubber and not fail. Plugs rock.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsHowever many are in a shit ton.
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09-30-2021, 10:19 AM #6160
I've given up on finding a FS bike this year and decided to stick with my hardtail for the time being. I want to do what I can to make the hardtail suck less on rough terrain, and I'm thinking about getting a titanium seatpost for increased compliance. Tough to stomach the $250 cost of name brand, has anyone bought a Ti post from a chinese manufacturer on ebay? Looking at something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/12343430693...gAAOSw~llcB3or
The seat clamp probably isn't the same quality as the name brands, but are there any other functional differences?
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09-30-2021, 10:24 AM #6161
Dropper-less hardtail? NFW.
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09-30-2021, 10:31 AM #6162Dad core
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Location
- Back in Seattle
- Posts
- 1,284
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09-30-2021, 10:34 AM #6163
The bike has a 27.2 post diameter, also I'm too cheap and don't want to put too much $$ into this bike I plan on selling at some point. I don't have any problem on most of the trails I ride highposting. I just want to take the edge off for long rides.
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09-30-2021, 10:45 AM #6164
See if you can find a used Ergon / Canyon VCLS 2.0 seatpost or similar.
https://www.bikeradar.com/features/f...d-on-the-road/
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09-30-2021, 10:48 AM #6165
Cane Creek Thudbuster?
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09-30-2021, 10:51 AM #6166
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09-30-2021, 10:54 AM #6167
Ask the experts
Just ordered a new gravel bike, it comes with SRAM and I think it’s either an xd or xdr driver, I want to replace the the stock Sun Race 11-42, 11 speed cassette with a 10-46 and I want it to be light. I looked at Gabaruk cassettes and they look really good, are they? What else should I look at?
crab in my shoe mouth
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09-30-2021, 11:01 AM #6168
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09-30-2021, 11:01 AM #6169
So, I have a shifting issue I can't seem to eliminate.
Shimano XTR 9000 11-spd, 11-46 cassette, XTR shifter. Everything's five years old, yes, but still in good shape. Cassette is new last summer, I take care of my gear and haven't been riding enough anyway.
Everything downshifts (little cog to big cog) perfectly fine, comes off the big ring fine, but won't shift from 2nd to 3rd on it's own. Doesn't even click like it's not adjusted properly, just won't bump down. If I double shift from 2nd to 4th, I can shift back up in to 3rd with no problem, and it runs fine when it's in gear there. Cable and housing is new, derailleur is properly adjusted. All other shifting is spot on, derailleur cage isn't bent, derailleur hanger isn't bent (though I haven't put a DAG on it to be sure), chain isn't worn out, can't think of anything else to look in to. I know shifters wear out, but it works fine except for this one particular thing. Thoughts?
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09-30-2021, 11:03 AM #6170
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09-30-2021, 11:06 AM #6171
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09-30-2021, 11:22 AM #6172
I have one of the specialized posts and can confirm that it takes the edge off. I also bought a 27.2 carbon dropper for the gravel bike (also specialized) that I likely won't ever install. If the OP is interested in buying the dropper (or anybody else is) I'd consider selling. It is the specialized command post XCP.
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09-30-2021, 11:27 AM #6173
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09-30-2021, 02:20 PM #6174
This symptom sometimes shows up when the low limit screw is not set tight enough. If the low limit is too loose the jockey wheel sits inboard too far (closer to the wheel), when you shift from 1st to 2nd it requires too much cable to be released to get to the derailleur to move from inside of 1st, past 1st, and then down to 2nd (almost like a double shift worth of cable). Then when you try to shift from 2nd to 3rd there is not enough cable left in that "click" to release the derailleur down to 3rd gear. And then once you "click" again to go from 3rd to 4th it releases a full shift worth of cable, thus shifts smoothly.
I like to tighten the low limit screw until it starts to try jumping towards 2nd gear, and then slightly back it off until it get quiet again. That way the shift from 1st to 2nd is releasing equal cable as the shift from 2nd to 3rd.
Kinda wordy but that is the best way to describe it.
Also on the opposite end of the cassette, the 11 speed SRAM shift from 10t to 12t is always super sloppy if the there is too much slack on the limit screw.
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09-30-2021, 03:16 PM #6175Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Posts
- 638
follow up
appreciate help with Q1, new round rings and chain are on their way, will flip cogs and see how that goes before throwing more $ at things
could still use input on Q2, cross strap just split 3/4 across and shoes are telling me its time to be put to pasture
trainer shoes, thoughts?
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