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[Rossymcg]

Welp, blew up my X2 a while back and sent to QBP for a full rebuild. Felt amazing for half day at the park and then blown again. Fuck that noise. Great shock if you are super pro spancered and have 5 of them in the truck at all times.

Of course the shop had a barely used Push in stock tuned for my bike.

Being a bike addict is more expensive than being a crack head I bet.

that must have been a poor repair but I sometimes make excuses/reasons also to get cool new stuff. I'm constantly looking for fresh reasons to keep stock rotation high

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[mildbill.]

just saw that OneUp replied, how did I do?

"Tell him what he's won, Bob!"

The answer to my original question is - I was indeed missing something, as you described, confirmed by Oneup.

Liking the extra 35mm drop over my 175mm transfer, although it definitely feels like it cost half of what the fox retails for.

Thanks all for the insights.

[Dantheman]

Being a bike addict is more expensive than being a crack head I bet.

Google says the average street price of crack is $60/gram. You could fund a hell of a habit with bike and a year's worth of bike expenses. Some dudes in the weight weenie forum on MTBR have probably paid more than $60 per gram saved a bunch of times.

[cydwhit]

I have had the OneUp 100cc pump with EDC tool running every day for about 16 months (no riding during winter months for me). On a ride on Sunday, the pump liberated itself from my bike -- the soft rubber closure clapse snapped, and apparently the mount could not contain both my radness and the pump at the same time. Bye bye pump, tool, bacon strip/tool, tire boot... Truthfully, it was a barely moderate amount of radness but she's gone gone gone.

Has anyone had this happen to them? Closure breaking, and then losing yer pump?

OneUp gave me a "crash replacement" coupon code for 40% off, so I ordered another set. I may use a ski strap to keep it in place going forward.

Other than that minor issue, I've loved the pump. Best hand pump I've used, well-thought-out, fits the tool, and I never carry a backpack now. Just sling you leg over and start pedaling -- Love that feeling.

Also, OneUp's solid and timely response to question about warranty/crash-replacement further solidified my thumbs-up for OneUp.

Dang, that sucks. I broke the little rubber thing, and ran it without it for a year and a half, even at bike parks and was fine. I did find that for it to stay secure in the bracket you have to run it upside down, with the head of the pump facing your bottom bracket, and the butt of the pump facing the head tube. With the pump in that orientation, I've never had it come loose, but with it the other way, it came off even with the rubber strap on occasion.

[ridinshockgun]

Dang, that sucks. I broke the little rubber thing, and ran it without it for a year and a half, even at bike parks and was fine. I did find that for it to stay secure in the bracket you have to run it upside down, with the head of the pump facing your bottom bracket, and the butt of the pump facing the head tube. With the pump in that orientation, I've never had it come loose, but with it the other way, it came off even with the rubber strap on occasion.

I buy a new o-ring kit for mine once a year and it includes a new rubber strap. Also run it upside down, I do this on my theory that the stuff is less likely to fall out facing up, whether or not that actually has any substance to it it makes me feel better. I have the tool and more important stuff in the steerer tube and just like some duct tape and zip ties, etc in the pump.

[g_man80]

What type of patches are recommended for a small sidewall cut? I was able to plug it and finish the ride. Since the tire is pretty new, I’d like a more reliable fix so I can keep running it.
Apologies if this has been covered.

[skaredshtles]

What type of patches are recommended for a small sidewall cut? I was able to plug it and finish the ride. Since the tire is pretty new, I’d like a more reliable fix so I can keep running it.
Apologies if this has been covered.

Vulcanized automotive tire patch.

[g_man80]

Thanks. I now remember reading that around Page 137 of this thread.

[jm2e]

Honestly, I’ve gotten a ton of miles out of standard old school glue patches. Even when the hole is big enough the orange patch rubber is visible. I’ve never repunctured a patch.
That said, if a patch is holding air now, you’re probably wasting time with a patch. I’ve had plugs go from day 2 to bald rubber and not fail. Plugs rock.


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[Benneke10]

I've given up on finding a FS bike this year and decided to stick with my hardtail for the time being. I want to do what I can to make the hardtail suck less on rough terrain, and I'm thinking about getting a titanium seatpost for increased compliance. Tough to stomach the $250 cost of name brand, has anyone bought a Ti post from a chinese manufacturer on ebay? Looking at something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/12343430693...gAAOSw~llcB3or

The seat clamp probably isn't the same quality as the name brands, but are there any other functional differences?

[Dantheman]

Dropper-less hardtail? NFW.

[carlh]

What Dan said dropper is the way to go. If you want more compliance put on a bigger tire and drop the pressure.

I've given up on finding a FS bike this year and decided to stick with my hardtail for the time being. I want to do what I can to make the hardtail suck less on rough terrain, and I'm thinking about getting a titanium seatpost for increased compliance. Tough to stomach the $250 cost of name brand, has anyone bought a Ti post from a chinese manufacturer on ebay? Looking at something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/12343430693...gAAOSw~llcB3or

The seat clamp probably isn't the same quality as the name brands, but are there any other functional differences?

[Benneke10]

The bike has a 27.2 post diameter, also I'm too cheap and don't want to put too much $$ into this bike I plan on selling at some point. I don't have any problem on most of the trails I ride highposting. I just want to take the edge off for long rides.

[XtrPickels]

See if you can find a used Ergon / Canyon VCLS 2.0 seatpost or similar.

https://www.bikeradar.com/features/f...d-on-the-road/

[J. Barron DeJong]

Cane Creek Thudbuster?

[sf]

Cane Creek Thudbuster?

Jesus, I read Turdbuster

[buttahflake]

Just ordered a new gravel bike, it comes with SRAM and I think it’s either an xd or xdr driver, I want to replace the the stock Sun Race 11-42, 11 speed cassette with a 10-46 and I want it to be light. I looked at Gabaruk cassettes and they look really good, are they? What else should I look at?

[J. Barron DeJong]

Jesus, I read Turdbuster

I believe Turdbuster is what Benneke is currently riding.

[ZomblibulaX]

So, I have a shifting issue I can't seem to eliminate.

Shimano XTR 9000 11-spd, 11-46 cassette, XTR shifter. Everything's five years old, yes, but still in good shape. Cassette is new last summer, I take care of my gear and haven't been riding enough anyway.

Everything downshifts (little cog to big cog) perfectly fine, comes off the big ring fine, but won't shift from 2nd to 3rd on it's own. Doesn't even click like it's not adjusted properly, just won't bump down. If I double shift from 2nd to 4th, I can shift back up in to 3rd with no problem, and it runs fine when it's in gear there. Cable and housing is new, derailleur is properly adjusted. All other shifting is spot on, derailleur cage isn't bent, derailleur hanger isn't bent (though I haven't put a DAG on it to be sure), chain isn't worn out, can't think of anything else to look in to. I know shifters wear out, but it works fine except for this one particular thing. Thoughts?

[J. Barron DeJong]

So, I have a shifting issue I can't seem to eliminate.

Shimano XTR 9000 11-spd, 11-46 cassette, XTR shifter. Everything's five years old, yes, but still in good shape. Cassette is new last summer, I take care of my gear and haven't been riding enough anyway.

Everything downshifts (little cog to big cog) perfectly fine, comes off the big ring fine, but won't shift from 2nd to 3rd on it's own. Doesn't even click like it's not adjusted properly, just won't bump down. If I double shift from 2nd to 4th, I can shift back up in to 3rd with no problem, and it runs fine when it's in gear there. Cable and housing is new, derailleur is properly adjusted. All other shifting is spot on, derailleur cage isn't bent, derailleur hanger isn't bent (though I haven't put a DAG on it to be sure), chain isn't worn out, can't think of anything else to look in to. I know shifters wear out, but it works fine except for this one particular thing. Thoughts?

Check B-tension adjustment and put a gauge on the hanger.

[El Chupacabra]

Just ordered a new gravel bike, it comes with SRAM and I think it’s either an xd or xdr driver, I want to replace the the stock Sun Race 11-42, 11 speed cassette with a 10-46 and I want it to be light. I looked at Gabaruk cassettes and they look really good, are they? What else should I look at?

If the stock cassette is a Sunrace 11-42, the 11T small cog makes me think that might be a Shimano HG freehub body.

[sethschmautz]

See if you can find a used Ergon / Canyon VCLS 2.0 seatpost or similar.

https://www.bikeradar.com/features/f...d-on-the-road/

I have one of the specialized posts and can confirm that it takes the edge off. I also bought a 27.2 carbon dropper for the gravel bike (also specialized) that I likely won't ever install. If the OP is interested in buying the dropper (or anybody else is) I'd consider selling. It is the specialized command post XCP.

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[Dantheman]

If the stock cassette is a Sunrace 11-42, the 11T small cog makes me think that might be a Shimano HG freehub body.

11t absolutely means HG freehub.

[Dee Hubbs]

So, I have a shifting issue I can't seem to eliminate.
Shimano XTR 9000 11-spd, 11-46 cassette, XTR shifter. Everything's five years old, yes, but still in good shape. Cassette is new last summer, I take care of my gear and haven't been riding enough anyway.
Everything downshifts (little cog to big cog) perfectly fine, comes off the big ring fine, but won't shift from 2nd to 3rd on it's own. Doesn't even click like it's not adjusted properly, just won't bump down. If I double shift from 2nd to 4th, I can shift back up in to 3rd with no problem, and it runs fine when it's in gear there. Cable and housing is new, derailleur is properly adjusted. All other shifting is spot on, derailleur cage isn't bent, derailleur hanger isn't bent (though I haven't put a DAG on it to be sure), chain isn't worn out, can't think of anything else to look in to. I know shifters wear out, but it works fine except for this one particular thing. Thoughts?

This symptom sometimes shows up when the low limit screw is not set tight enough. If the low limit is too loose the jockey wheel sits inboard too far (closer to the wheel), when you shift from 1st to 2nd it requires too much cable to be released to get to the derailleur to move from inside of 1st, past 1st, and then down to 2nd (almost like a double shift worth of cable). Then when you try to shift from 2nd to 3rd there is not enough cable left in that "click" to release the derailleur down to 3rd gear. And then once you "click" again to go from 3rd to 4th it releases a full shift worth of cable, thus shifts smoothly.
I like to tighten the low limit screw until it starts to try jumping towards 2nd gear, and then slightly back it off until it get quiet again. That way the shift from 1st to 2nd is releasing equal cable as the shift from 2nd to 3rd.
Kinda wordy but that is the best way to describe it.
Also on the opposite end of the cassette, the 11 speed SRAM shift from 10t to 12t is always super sloppy if the there is too much slack on the limit screw.

[forty]

a couple Q's for the spandex experts in here...

1. i have a 1989 allez epic dura ace, like this

finally managed to wear out the stock drivetrain using it on the trainer in mostly a single gear
thus it needs new ring/cassette/chain

initial research is telling me this isnt a normal 7spd cassette style, and the rings are biopace...

what am i looking for in replacement parts?

2. my old sidi dominator IIIs are about dead
ive replaced buckles/velcro but the traction lugs have all fallen off and the sole just isnt as stiff as it used to be so im getting foot cramps on the trainer, which is my only use for these shoes

what are some good shoes for the trainer?
spd pedals, narrow low volume foot, cheaper the better, or should i just bite the bullet and get a new pair of sidis?

follow up

appreciate help with Q1, new round rings and chain are on their way, will flip cogs and see how that goes before throwing more $ at things

could still use input on Q2, cross strap just split 3/4 across and shoes are telling me its time to be put to pasture
trainer shoes, thoughts?