Ask the experts

**rideit** · 06-23-2021, 09:24 AM

That’s cool, I wasn’t aware of the c02 component. But I just bring a pump usually.

**toast2266** · 06-23-2021, 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by rideit

That’s cool, I wasn’t aware of the c02 component. But I just bring a pump usually.

Same. I'm too cheap to use CO2's unless I'm in a hurry.

**dan_pdx** · 06-23-2021, 10:48 AM

I have a pair of Tioga Super 8 pedals on my commuter / bar bike that might be about 8-10 years old. They probably have 15k miles of year round commuting on them. I've never done a lick of maintenance, and I've noticed that one of the seals has failed and I'm hearing some grinding at certain angles.

I'd like to rebuild them if possible, and don't mind throwing some money at it given they're out of production and I can't buy new ones. Are these candidates for a rebuild, or are they too far gone to save? If a rebuild is a possibility, where do I start? Just get a rebuild kit and go from there?

**toast2266** · 06-23-2021, 11:13 AM

Originally Posted by dan_pdx

I have a pair of Tioga Super 8 pedals on my commuter / bar bike that might be about 8-10 years old. They probably have 15k miles of year round commuting on them. I've never done a lick of maintenance, and I've noticed that one of the seals has failed and I'm hearing some grinding at certain angles.

I'd like to rebuild them if possible, and don't mind throwing some money at it given they're out of production and I can't buy new ones. Are these candidates for a rebuild, or are they too far gone to save? If a rebuild is a possibility, where do I start? Just get a rebuild kit and go from there?

What's inside of those things? Is it an inboard and outboard cartridge bearing? Or loose ball? Or a bearing / bushing combination?

I'd guess all of the parts in there are standard-ish sizes and are replaceable. It's just a matter of how much time you want to spend chasing down random little parts when you could buy a new set of perfectly good platforms for $50 or so.

**rideit** · 06-23-2021, 12:32 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

Same. I'm too cheap to use CO2's unless I'm in a hurry.

And when you get multiple punctures, or a slow leak, or want to help a friend, or don’t want the waste...

**skaredshtles** · 06-23-2021, 02:30 PM

Originally Posted by rideit

And when you get multiple punctures, or a slow leak, or want to help a friend, or don’t want the waste...

I use CO2 most of the time, 'cause I'm a baller and buy the cartridges by the case.

I also carry a pump for all those other reasons.

**Dee Hubbs** · 06-23-2021, 02:38 PM

I have a pump at accepts C02s and also hand pumps. (one road version, one MTB version)
Best of both worlds.

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**frorider** · 06-23-2021, 02:50 PM

NSFW

**jm2e** · 06-23-2021, 03:48 PM

I go back and forth on pump vs CO2 vs forgetting that I don't have anything in there because I changed packs or last outing was an epic.
There are 3 consistent problems I run into with CO2:
1. I historically show a very high percentage of instances wasting the first cartridge because I flub the inflator.
2. I hit it with the inflator and find out it was a pinch flat with 2 holes, so first (second really) cartridge was wasted finding said hole.
3. There's no world where carrying CO2 without a pump is going to reliably work. So it's really just a paying $3-4 for speed kinda thing.
But I still do it.

I have stopped carrying a tube in my smaller pack. All bikes currently have Cushcore. And the likelihood of getting tha tire off in the field is spectacularly low. I'll walk/ride out on that fucker if the plug doesn't work.

**Iowagriz** · 06-23-2021, 05:35 PM

If my 20-25yr old CO2 ever dies, then I'll probably pack the pump. It takes the unthreaded cartridges, so I can get a pack of 50 from Walmart (for bb guns) for maybe $10. They will last me 5yrs and I don't worry about using them.

I haven't looked in years, aren't the newest CO2 using threaded?

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**VTskibum** · 06-23-2021, 05:39 PM

100% co2. Check Amazon for threaded by the case comes out around $1 per. Carry 3 plus Lezyne inflater with a dial so you don’t screw up your first one. Also bacon strips, tire patch, quick links, lever, $10 etc in a backcountry research tulbag. Grab it for every ride and have individual tubes on each bike. Saved myself a long walk many times, especially for lunch rides when I have to be home for a work call.

Did recently pickup a DART, but haven’t had to use it yet. May throw a pick of my tool bag into that other tool thread

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**dan_pdx** · 06-23-2021, 07:17 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

What's inside of those things? Is it an inboard and outboard cartridge bearing? Or loose ball? Or a bearing / bushing combination?

I'd guess all of the parts in there are standard-ish sizes and are replaceable. It's just a matter of how much time you want to spend chasing down random little parts when you could buy a new set of perfectly good platforms for $50 or so.

Yeah...I don't know the answers to any of those questions. Most of the new platform pedals I see have angled leading edges that look like they wouldn't be compatible with my strapless toe clips - I like having them for more security on rainy commutes. These pedals are also skinny, which lets me pedal through corners with less chance of pedal strike, and modern pedals seem to be all about wide platforms.

Would I have to pay out the ass to get this done at a bike shop? I'm happy to pay like $50 - $75 to get them refurbed if new pedals will cost about that much anyway. Trying to not buy that NOS pair for $100 on Amazon if I can help it.

**toast2266** · 06-23-2021, 08:09 PM

Originally Posted by dan_pdx

Yeah...I don't know the answers to any of those questions. Most of the new platform pedals I see have angled leading edges that look like they wouldn't be compatible with my strapless toe clips - I like having them for more security on rainy commutes. These pedals are also skinny, which lets me pedal through corners with less chance of pedal strike, and modern pedals seem to be all about wide platforms.

Would I have to pay out the ass to get this done at a bike shop? I'm happy to pay like $50 - $75 to get them refurbed if new pedals will cost about that much anyway. Trying to not buy that NOS pair for $100 on Amazon if I can help it.

I'd be kinda surprised if a shop had the parts to rebuild those, and if they do it's just dumb luck. Pedal bearings / bushings aren't standard, and rebuilding pedals isn't a particularly common procedure.

Not saying it can't be done. But it'd take some effort to track down the necessary parts, and paying a shop to put in that effort is probably not economical. Most shops I know would just sell you new pedals.

**Mr. Toad** · 06-23-2021, 09:42 PM

You could start by just taking out that Allen bolt and seeing what happens. If the spindle pulls out revealing cartridge bearings on each end, remove the seals, clean out the old grease, and add fresh grease. What do you have to lose?

**dannynoonan** · 06-23-2021, 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Toad

You could start by just taking out that Allen bolt and seeing what happens. If the spindle pulls out revealing cartridge bearings on each end, remove the seals, clean out the old grease, and add fresh grease. What do you have to lose?

Yup, there is a very high probability that under that cap, is a nut that holds the spindle from pulling out from a stock size cartridge bearing. Remove both, pedal comes off spindle. Grease, replace the inboard bushing, replace bearing, good to go.

Note, this is all conjecture based on this looking a lot like a million other generic Asian pedals. Finding the correct replacement parts could be easy, or could be a pain in the ass.

**dan_pdx** · 06-24-2021, 09:51 AM

Thanks to toast, toad, and danny, all this is new info for me. I'm great at taking things apart, not always as good at putting things back together, but I get it now that there's really nothing to lose here. I'm out of town right now, but when I get home, I'll check to see if I still have some spare platforms around. If so, I'll throw those on as temporaries and take apart my existing pedals to see what happens.

The seal on one pedal has failed, not sure if it actually tore or just kind of dried out. I'm guessing that's going to be very hard to impossible to find a replacement for, right?

**XXX-er** · 06-24-2021, 10:55 AM

I havent bothered to attempt a pedal rebuild in a very long time probably cuz I been on Shimano SPD's fo eva and every SPD I have ever bought is still in service with no maintenace

but IME the pedal body/ bearings/ sleeves yada on a flat pedal is all held togetehr with a nut or 2 nuts in a jam config or a nut and a washer you fold over to hold the nut at the correct bearing adj and this all goes on the end of the pedal spindle

IME getting the end play right on a pedal spindle is almost impossibe becuz the hole is so small I can't get 2 wrenchs ( not that I own) in there to hold a jam nut, I have put it togetehr slightly loose and cranked the nut down so when the nut does get tight I have the right endplay but its a bit of a crapshoot

really pedals are replacement items, you probably won't find any parts, maybe an LBS will give you a dead pedal to rob parts off of but its not likely to be the right pedal

**El Chupacabra** · 06-24-2021, 11:05 AM

Full pedal bearing disassembly is something you do if you're a masochist. However, just removing the spindle from the body, wiping clean old grease, and regreasing, is easy.

For Shimano, just pack a bunch of grease into the cleaned out pedal body, and screw the pedal spindle back in. Excess grease will force itself out, wipe it off. You'll need the Shimano pedal spindle tool, and a bench vise and big adjustable wrench make it easy.

**XXX-er** · 06-24-2021, 11:20 AM

I've always thot it would be nice if there was a grease port in pedals

**simple** · 06-24-2021, 11:24 AM

Originally Posted by XXX-er

I've always thot it would be nice if there was a grease port in pedals

Reminds me of how WTB put a grease port on everything back in the day

**dan_pdx** · 06-24-2021, 11:34 AM

My Speedplay road pedals have a grease port, but you need their dedicated grease gun, or at least they claim you do.

**Canada1** · 06-24-2021, 11:40 AM

Originally Posted by dan_pdx

My Speedplay road pedals have a grease port, but you need their dedicated grease gun, or at least they claim you do.

[https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Chain-...37994850&psc=1

Load this with your choice of grease

**XXX-er** · 06-24-2021, 12:05 PM

I think they call that a needle point grease gun ?

I have a needle point gun to lube my Manitou exvert super ( still a good xc fork 20 yars later ) with preperation M thru a handy port on the back of each stanchion

i could porbably use the gun to lube the switch infinity pivot on my yeti but with different grease

**brutah** · 06-24-2021, 12:30 PM

If I switch from metal brake pads to resin brake pads, should I also switch out the rotors? Do you commonly replace your rotors when replacing pads? also, my buddy recommended opening up the hydraulic line to push out the calipers and then doing a burp bleed after the new pads are in, thoughts?

I was only able to find resin brake pads for my shimano xt 8120 brakes and have been running metal pads.

**MegaStoke** · 06-24-2021, 12:51 PM

Originally Posted by brutah

If I switch from metal brake pads to resin brake pads, should I also switch out the rotors? Do you commonly replace your rotors when replacing pads? also, my buddy recommended opening up the hydraulic line to push out the calipers and then doing a burp bleed after the new pads are in, thoughts?

I was only able to find resin brake pads for my shimano xt 8120 brakes and have been running metal pads.

According to Shimano, you should replace your rotors. According to my personal experience, you should be fine switching pad compound without issue.