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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #5026
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    X2 for just commuting on flats. The performance gains that you're getting from commuting in clips is pretty marginal.

  2. #5027
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    Quote Originally Posted by cydwhit View Post
    Personally I'd go with something like this.
    Cool, thanks. This might be the ticket for our tandem when we visit friends for cocktails.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  3. #5028
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    My frame cable adjusters keep slipping. They have a spring but that does not seem to stop them from backing. What's a good fix? Vibratite?

  4. #5029
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    Can you post a pic? Your verbal description is a little confusing.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  5. #5030
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Another option for the bar/commute ride - get some "normal" looking shoes that are walkable but will take an SPD cleat. Something like this:
    https://www.moosejaw.com/product/gir...-shoe_10486385
    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/2f...=300591-187391

    Or even this:
    https://www.rei.com/product/111667/s...e-sandals-mens

  6. #5031
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    Questions about parts compatibility....

    So at some point I'm going to have to replace the 12-speed Eagle drivetrain on my Spur. 12-speed selection is still very limited and I'm not sure I could stomach the prices for XG level components anyways. $300-400 for an XG cassette??? Fuck....

    Might drop back to 11 speed or switch to Shimano depending on availability. What is compatible with what these days between SRAM/Shimano and 11 and 12 speed?

    I think I could use a 12 speed chain on 11 speed drivetrain. Can I use 12 speed shifter/derailler with an 11 speed cassette and just limit shifting using limit screws? Can I use Shimano cassette/chain with SRAM shifter/derailler or vice versa? Are chainrings or cranks specific to one speed or the other, or do you just have to have the correct mounting interface for each?

    Any other compatibility gotcha's or hacks to consider?

  7. #5032
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    What freehub body (or hub) do you have?
    That may guide some of this, at least on the wheel.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  8. #5033
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    The Spur is a Stans Neo something or other, with SRAM Eagle drivetrain - so XD drive. Still have Mojo3 which is currently Shimano 11 speed, so HG.

    Converting the Spur to HG is a possibility. Probably wouldn't go to Microspline - if I'm going to switch to Shimano it would likely be 11 speed since 12 isn't available and is more expensive anyways.

  9. #5034
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    Ok, just making sure you had the freehub part covered.
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  10. #5035
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Questions about parts compatibility....

    So at some point I'm going to have to replace the 12-speed Eagle drivetrain on my Spur. 12-speed selection is still very limited and I'm not sure I could stomach the prices for XG level components anyways. $300-400 for an XG cassette??? Fuck....

    Might drop back to 11 speed or switch to Shimano depending on availability. What is compatible with what these days between SRAM/Shimano and 11 and 12 speed?

    I think I could use a 12 speed chain on 11 speed drivetrain. Can I use 12 speed shifter/derailler with an 11 speed cassette and just limit shifting using limit screws? Can I use Shimano cassette/chain with SRAM shifter/derailler or vice versa? Are chainrings or cranks specific to one speed or the other, or do you just have to have the correct mounting interface for each?

    Any other compatibility gotcha's or hacks to consider?
    I'm hardly an expert but I think I have some answers. An 11 speed cassette doesn't just have one less gear but different spacing between gears so mixing and matching 11 speed and 12 speed generally doesn't work with some very limited exceptions (I'll get to that shortly).

    SRAM shifters cannot be mixed with Shimano derailleurs and vice versa because the shifters pull different amounts of cable for each click.

    You have some things going for you, though, mainly the XD driver. HG drivers will only let you go down to an 11 tooth cog. With XD you can go down to 9.

    If you replace 12 speed parts on your Spur what are your needing other than the cassette? If you go to 11 speed you'll need a shifter, cassette, and possibly derailleur.*

    *With Shimano 10 and 11 speed you could run a 10 speed shifter with an 11 speed derailleur. I did this a few times to run a wide range 10 speed cassette because the 10 speed derailleur didn't with as well with wide range cassettes. This is possible because the shifter is responsible for the gear indexing, not the derailleur. You might be able to do this with SRAM - not sure.

    If all you are replacing is the cassette, gx might be more cost effective than buying an 11 speed shifter, derailleur and cassette. If you are currently running a 10-51 tooth cassette and use the 51 very often you'll need to find an 11 speed cassette with similar range or change your chainring. I have personally had good success with the e*thirteen 9-46 11 speed cassette.

    Hope that helps. Maybe somebody else can fill in the gaps.

    Seth

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

  11. #5036
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Questions about parts compatibility....

    So at some point I'm going to have to replace the 12-speed Eagle drivetrain on my Spur. 12-speed selection is still very limited and I'm not sure I could stomach the prices for XG level components anyways. $300-400 for an XG cassette??? Fuck....

    Might drop back to 11 speed or switch to Shimano depending on availability. What is compatible with what these days between SRAM/Shimano and 11 and 12 speed?

    I think I could use a 12 speed chain on 11 speed drivetrain. Can I use 12 speed shifter/derailler with an 11 speed cassette and just limit shifting using limit screws? Can I use Shimano cassette/chain with SRAM shifter/derailler or vice versa? Are chainrings or cranks specific to one speed or the other, or do you just have to have the correct mounting interface for each?

    Any other compatibility gotcha's or hacks to consider?

    Replace your chains at 0.5% wear and the expensive cassette should keep going for years.

  12. #5037
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    Ask the experts

    Where do you find these “new chains” you speak of?
    The shops don’t have any, the online retailers do t have any and 75% of the chains currently being sold on Amazon are counterfeits.
    The story of counterfeit chains is directly from a bigger bike brand’s product manager, who has complete bikes (less a chain) ready to ship, but can’t get Shimano,SRAM, KMC to supply them with chains.
    They started to order and pay retail for chains, and once the actual online bike business suppliers dried up, they went to Amazon, but soon realized 75% of every chain they received was a counterfeit.

  13. #5038
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    Any recommendations for a cell phone holder for the mtb bars for the occasional ride where I need to keep checking that I'm on the right trail? I really prefer to not have to put a special case on the phone if there is a good alternative. Anyone have anything cheap and reliable that fits the bill?

  14. #5039
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    I'm hardly an expert but I think I have some answers. An 11 speed cassette doesn't just have one less gear but different spacing between gears so mixing and matching 11 speed and 12 speed generally doesn't work with some very limited exceptions (I'll get to that shortly).

    SRAM shifters cannot be mixed with Shimano derailleurs and vice versa because the shifters pull different amounts of cable for each click. Agreed

    You have some things going for you, though, mainly the XD driver. HG drivers will only let you go down to an 11 tooth cog. With XD you can go down to 9. High range not an issue, seldom use it. Might not be a bad thing to have an HG driver on hand.

    If you replace 12 speed parts on your Spur what are your needing other than the cassette? If you go to 11 speed you'll need a shifter, cassette, and possibly derailleur.*

    *With Shimano 10 and 11 speed you could run a 10 speed shifter with an 11 speed derailleur. I did this a few times to run a wide range 10 speed cassette because the 10 speed derailleur didn't with as well with wide range cassettes. This is possible because the shifter is responsible for the gear indexing, not the derailleur. You might be able to do this with SRAM - not sure. Good to know!

    If all you are replacing is the cassette, gx might be more cost effective than buying an 11 speed shifter, derailleur and cassette. If you are currently running a 10-51 tooth cassette and use the 51 very often you'll need to find an 11 speed cassette with similar range or change your chainring. I have personally had good success with the e*thirteen 9-46 11 speed cassette. I'd be better off with smaller chainring regardless. Lots of steep climbs. I'd like to downsize both cassette and chainring - save weight, cost.

    Hope that helps. Maybe somebody else can fill in the gaps.

    Seth

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    To move back from 12sp to 11sp I'd need a new cassette, possibly a chain - I'll have to check the parts bin. Pretty sure I still have two pairs of 11sp SRAM shifter and rear D. One used but in good shape, the other new. Prolonging cassette life by swapping out chains more frequently like D(C) mentions is definitely an option. Does this preserve chainring life as well?

    Regardless I'd like to have some spares on hand in case anything breaks. If I stay with 12sp and try to prolong drivetrain life I'd want a new rear D and possibly shifter to be safe, plus a chain or two. Parts availability is an issue there since this would all be 12sp, and these are things I'd want now. On the other hand I could gather a complete 11sp drivetrain and replace it all when current drivetrain is worn out or something breaks. 11sp stuff would be easier to find now.

    Hmm...

    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    Replace your chains at 0.5% wear and the expensive cassette should keep going for years.
    I hear you. I'm accustomed to running a drivetrain into the ground then replacing cassette/chain/chainring. But that is with cassettes only costing $70. The math changes when they cost several times that. If I can't find chains hands are tied though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Where do you find these “new chains” you speak of?
    Just planning ahead. Availability is definitely a concern so part of the math is considering stepping back to 11sp which seems a bit easier to find than 12sp. Hell, I'd even go back to 10sp. I used to be able to push a 36T cassette. Going to a smaller chainring up will help compensate. And at a lighter weight. I don't need the higher gears. By the time I could make use of a 9 speed cog I'd have to be going downhill anyways, in which case I'll just let gravity take over.

  15. #5040
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    Here’s more depressing info regarding chains:

    https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/w...017/12/RRG.pdf

    If you’re replacing your chains at 0.5, you’ll be going through a lot of chains.

  16. #5041
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Toad View Post
    Here’s more depressing info regarding chains:

    https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/w...017/12/RRG.pdf

    If you’re replacing your chains at 0.5, you’ll be going through a lot of chains.


    TLDR what’s it say about chain queso

  17. #5042
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Toad View Post
    If you’re replacing your chains at 0.5, you’ll be going through a lot of chains.
    With most 11 speed chains or cheaper 12 speed chains, they only last 2-3 month. For 11 speed, my strategy is to buy the cheapest chain I can find and replace as needed.

    X01 and better SRAM chains are quite impressive. They’ll go a whole year before reaching 0.5% elongation. They’re definitely worth the money over GX or NX. No idea about Shimano.

    And yeah, buying chains is a problem. I have an okay hoard going.

  18. #5043
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    Apparently I milk my chains while others queso theirs. 2 months??

  19. #5044
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    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    With most 11 speed chains or cheaper 12 speed chains, they only last 2-3 month.
    Shit, I buy cheap chains and run them for 18-24 months along with the whole drivetrain.

  20. #5045
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    To move back from 12sp to 11sp I'd need a new cassette, possibly a chain - I'll have to check the parts bin. Pretty sure I still have two pairs of 11sp SRAM shifter and rear D. One used but in good shape, the other new. Prolonging cassette life by swapping out chains more frequently like D(C) mentions is definitely an option. Does this preserve chainring life as well?

    Regardless I'd like to have some spares on hand in case anything breaks. If I stay with 12sp and try to prolong drivetrain life I'd want a new rear D and possibly shifter to be safe, plus a chain or two. Parts availability is an issue there since this would all be 12sp, and these are things I'd want now. On the other hand I could gather a complete 11sp drivetrain and replace it all when current drivetrain is worn out or something breaks. 11sp stuff would be easier to find now.

    Hmm...


    I hear you. I'm accustomed to running a drivetrain into the ground then replacing cassette/chain/chainring. But that is with cassettes only costing $70. The math changes when they cost several times that. If I can't find chains hands are tied though.


    Just planning ahead. Availability is definitely a concern so part of the math is considering stepping back to 11sp which seems a bit easier to find than 12sp. Hell, I'd even go back to 10sp. I used to be able to push a 36T cassette. Going to a smaller chainring up will help compensate. And at a lighter weight. I don't need the higher gears. By the time I could make use of a 9 speed cog I'd have to be going downhill anyways, in which case I'll just let gravity take over.
    FWIW all of my and my wife's bikes are still on 11 speed for the reasons you bring up - generally better cost and availability. I've also standardized on driver type to make spare swapping much easier. This has saved me in a pinch. Maybe it does make sense if you have other bikes with 11 speed already...

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

  21. #5046
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    Mar 2008
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    This may have been covered but are Dynaplugs much more effective than bacon strips? I put a new rear tire on a couple weeks ago and of course punctured it almost immediately. Bacon stripped it on the ride and it held fine until the next ride when the bacon pulled out while climbing a rock garden. Checked out the dynaplugs at my LBS and they seem more secure due to the bead head thingy securing the plug on the inside of the tire, but I passed since it's $50 for a kit of like 4 plugs which is borderline insane.

    Alternatively for a more permanent repair is it best to just patch the inside of the tire? I ran out of bacon and had to put a tube in there on the second flat so I have to take the tire off regardless. I've always had success with bacon strips being essentially permanent repairs as long as it's not a sidewall puncture but this hole seems more finicky than others (hehe)
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  22. #5047
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    This may have been covered but are Dynaplugs much more effective than bacon strips? I put a new rear tire on a couple weeks ago and of course punctured it almost immediately. Bacon stripped it on the ride and it held fine until the next ride when the bacon pulled out while climbing a rock garden. Checked out the dynaplugs at my LBS and they seem more secure due to the bead head thingy securing the plug on the inside of the tire, but I passed since it's $50 for a kit of like 4 plugs which is borderline insane.

    Alternatively for a more permanent repair is it best to just patch the inside of the tire? I ran out of bacon and had to put a tube in there on the second flat so I have to take the tire off regardless. I've always had success with bacon strips being essentially permanent repairs as long as it's not a sidewall puncture but this hole seems more finicky than others (hehe)
    I'd say dynaplugs are marginally better than bacon strips, but the main advantage is they're way faster. Plugging + reinflating takes about 10 seconds. Good for racing.

  23. #5048
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    Stan’s Darts kick both of there asses up and down the block, in my experience.
    (Sample size of six darts)
    Forum Cross Pollinator

  24. #5049
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth View Post
    <snip>

    Alternatively for a more permanent repair is it best to just patch the inside of the tire?
    Yes.

    And do yourself a favor by heading over to your local auto parts store and get a vulcanized auto tire repair kit.

  25. #5050
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Stan’s Darts kick both of there asses up and down the block, in my experience.
    (Sample size of six darts)
    Haven't tried them yet, but the darts look really good.

    But the main selling point of dynaplugs is that plugging and reinflation happens all at the same time. The air goes in through the hole that's being plugged. It's not really meant to be long lasting - it's meant to be a super quick fix so you can finish a race without losing much time.

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