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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #4176
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    M5x16mm SHCS will work for the steerer clamp bolt on a Turbine.
    Thank you for your accurate reading comprehension.

  2. #4177
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Not the handle bar clamp. It was his steerer tube clamp bolts.
    Yup, very slim chance of success.
    Buy a new stem


    And this:
    https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-Pr.../dp/B00C4Z00Q8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  3. #4178
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    907
    I snapped the head off one of the steerer tube bolts on an I-9 stem, also despite using a torque wrench. I was able to carefully drill it out through trial and error, but it took about an hour going back and forth from each side. Eventually I was able to catch the broken stub enough with the bit and screw it through to the point I was able to grab it with pliers and screw it through the rest of the way. I did mangle the beginnings of the threads a little bit with the drill bit, but after the first time threading a new bolt in it seems to go in fine.

    Moral of the story is don't trust torque specs if they say 7n-m for an M5. Stop at 5n-m. That's snug enough that it won't move. Remember, bar clamps are like 3n-m, so 5 is a bit more than that.

  4. #4179
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Pagosa Springs CO
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    Still dialing in the suspension on my Mojo 4.
    Sag and rebound/compression set in accordance with the Ibis set up guide. Ride felt great but only used 60% of travel. Removed one of 2 spacers in the fork and replaced the .95 cu inch spacer with a .6 one.
    Rode same trail, the ride is still great and now using 70% of travel.
    Should I remove all the spacers or leave it as is? I'm 150lbs and not an aggressive rider.
    As a side note, I noticed on the review videos, the riders only using about 80-85% of travel.

  5. #4180
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    Jan 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    Still dialing in the suspension on my Mojo 4.
    Sag and rebound/compression set in accordance with the Ibis set up guide. Ride felt great but only used 60% of travel. Removed one of 2 spacers in the fork and replaced the .95 cu inch spacer with a .6 one.
    Rode same trail, the ride is still great and now using 70% of travel.
    Should I remove all the spacers or leave it as is? I'm 150lbs and not an aggressive rider.
    As a side note, I noticed on the review videos, the riders only using about 80-85% of travel.
    Can't hurt to try it. But yeah, in general, less aggressive riders aren't going to need or want as much progression so going to smaller / no volume spacers doesn't sound crazy.

  6. #4181
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    3,446
    Spacers? Shouldn't you be adjusting air pressure and not tokens?

    On a normal ride i use full travel maybe once sometimes never. Are you purposely trying to find bottom out?

  7. #4182
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Can you get by with on of the 5nm tools or should you really have an adjustable one?

  8. #4183
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    cow hampshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    Can you get by with on of the 5nm tools or should you really have an adjustable one?
    My shop gave me a 5nm tool because Ibis sends one with every new bike...or at least they did.

  9. #4184
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    Can you get by with on of the 5nm tools or should you really have an adjustable one?
    It's nice to have some adjustment. Dealing with clamps on carbon means a little more precision is warranted, and there's some variation in torque specs for cockpit controls.

  10. #4185
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    It's nice to have some adjustment. Dealing with clamps on carbon means a little more precision is warranted, and there's some variation in torque specs for cockpit controls.
    I've been looking at them, some that don't say Park on them get mixed reviews re: accuracy

    What do you have?

  11. #4186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    Still dialing in the suspension on my Mojo 4.
    Sag and rebound/compression set in accordance with the Ibis set up guide. Ride felt great but only used 60% of travel. Removed one of 2 spacers in the fork and replaced the .95 cu inch spacer with a .6 one.
    Rode same trail, the ride is still great and now using 70% of travel.
    Should I remove all the spacers or leave it as is? I'm 150lbs and not an aggressive rider.
    As a side note, I noticed on the review videos, the riders only using about 80-85% of travel.
    The one issue with popping spacers is that you'll need to increase pressure to maintain the same sag level. You might go deeper in the travel but things could feel harsher at the top. Compromises all around...
    What does the compression damping look like on fork/shock? If you're light and not aggressive opening things up might help a bit. The recommended settings on my last ride were heavily damped and the bike wanted to ride high in its travel all the time. It felt pretty dead overall and I had to get way off the number of clicks recommended by Fox to liven it up and really get into the travel.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  12. #4187
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    Quote Originally Posted by ticketchecker View Post
    I've been looking at them, some that don't say Park on them get mixed reviews re: accuracy
    What do you have?
    CDI 2-8nm Adjustable Torque tool. On sale for $40
    The Link is the best price on the internet right now. They retail for over $100, and wholesale is over $55, not sure why this site is so cheap. I have purchased form them in the past, reputable tool company out of Florida.
    CDI is the torque tool division of Snap-On tools. Its an American company, and supplier to General Service Administration of the U.S. Government.
    This tool accepts any 1/4" hex bit you already own. Plus it includes a 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, T25, and 4" Long 4mm, 4" Long T25 Bit.

  13. #4188
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Pagosa Springs CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Spacers? Shouldn't you be adjusting air pressure and not tokens?

    On a normal ride i use full travel maybe once sometimes never. Are you purposely trying to find bottom out?
    If I'm at the appropriate sag how should I adjust the air pressure? I thought the recommended sag was always the starting point
    I'm not trying to find bottom out, but I feel like I should be using more of the travel.

  14. #4189
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    The one issue with popping spacers is that you'll need to increase pressure to maintain the same sag level. You might go deeper in the travel but things could feel harsher at the top. Compromises all around...
    What does the compression damping look like on fork/shock? If you're light and not aggressive opening things up might help a bit. The recommended settings on my last ride were heavily damped and the bike wanted to ride high in its travel all the time. It felt pretty dead overall and I had to get way off the number of clicks recommended by Fox to liven it up and really get into the travel.
    The shock is fully open and the fork is 7 out of 8 on HSC and 10 out of 16 of LSC. Small bump compliance feels really good. Big hits for me also feel really good. The bike is more capable than I am.

  15. #4190
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    CDI 2-8nm Adjustable Torque tool. On sale for $40
    The Link is the best price on the internet right now. They retail for over $100, and wholesale is over $55, not sure why this site is so cheap. I have purchased form them in the past, reputable tool company out of Florida.
    CDI is the torque tool division of Snap-On tools. Its an American company, and supplier to General Service Administration of the U.S. Government.
    This tool accepts any 1/4" hex bit you already own. Plus it includes a 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, T25, and 4" Long 4mm, 4" Long T25 Bit.
    Done, thanks Dee

  16. #4191
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    907
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    CDI 2-8nm Adjustable Torque tool. On sale for $40
    The Link is the best price on the internet right now. They retail for over $100, and wholesale is over $55, not sure why this site is so cheap. I have purchased form them in the past, reputable tool company out of Florida.
    CDI is the torque tool division of Snap-On tools. Its an American company, and supplier to General Service Administration of the U.S. Government.
    This tool accepts any 1/4" hex bit you already own. Plus it includes a 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, T25, and 4" Long 4mm, 4" Long T25 Bit.
    Thanks, I've been thinking of replacing the wrench in question for a while.

  17. #4192
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    Dec 2010
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    3,446
    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    If I'm at the appropriate sag how should I adjust the air pressure? I thought the recommended sag was always the starting point
    I'm not trying to find bottom out, but I feel like I should be using more of the travel.
    Yeah so now start dropping a psi or two and see how it feels. Tokens are for bottom out ramping. Removed the old BAM! hit of older air forks when going full travel.

  18. #4193
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    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    The shock is fully open and the fork is 7 out of 8 on HSC and 10 out of 16 of LSC. Small bump compliance feels really good. Big hits for me also feel really good. The bike is more capable than I am.
    So 1 from fully opened in HS and 6 from fully opened in LS? I can never remember how Fox counts the cliks. Regardless, playing with LS might help a bit? Worth a try anyway. Same things with running higher sag than recommended, if the bike doesn't wallow and bob all over the place it's fine.

    As an aside, I'm using full travel on my shock all the time but only once in a great while on my fork and it's set to be super linear (as in no crazy ramp up at the end stroke). It takes a nose-heavy drop or a slam into a big compression to gobble up all the travel. Usually I don't really touch the last inch or so, even when I ride like an absolute hack (read: often). The bike is balanced too, it's not like I'm running it super squishy in the back and stiff in the front.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  19. #4194
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    west tetons
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    1,592
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Can't hurt to try it. But yeah, in general, less aggressive riders aren't going to need or want as much progression so going to smaller / no volume spacers doesn't sound crazy.
    I'm barely 130#, and went through the same process on my HD3. Now I'm at no spacers in fork and maybe 50# of pressure in shock. As far as I understand, compression pressure is geometric, not simply along a continuum.

    Sent from my SM-A600A using Tapatalk

  20. #4195
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    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    Quote Originally Posted by D(C) View Post
    Many wheel builders refuse to reuse spokes. Is there any basis to this, or is it out of a desire to sell you new spokes, or out of not wanting to bother with unlacing the wheel?
    If the spokes arent damaged i find the used/prestretched spokes build a strong wheel. No real proof but ive just moved one spoke at a time from one rim on to the new rim a bunch of times. Most of the time they stayed true longer and needed less maintenance. I do see prebuilts from mavic, dt swiss and hope seemingly being prestretched to perfection and needing no retensioning. I imagine other reputable wheel companies as well but not all. A friend/mechanic that used to build my wheels on the first day he got the parts but i wouldnt see the wheels for almost a week. I think he walked on them every day and i didnt get them until they were gtg

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  21. #4196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    <snip> Small bump compliance feels really good. Big hits for me also feel really good.
    I would suggest not worrying about it if these two requirements are met.

  22. #4197
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    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlh View Post
    What do I grease to fix creaky bars? I should probably pull out the torque wrench and check them but they are pretty tight. Newish pnw bars in an older syntace megaforce stem on the hardtail.

    We can start the debate on stem screw prep grease vs loctite 242 medium strength blue.
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Are you 100% sure it's the bars? Front end creaks are like .05% handlebar / stem, 99.5% something else. I'd be looking at the headset, CSU, frame, etc.

    The only time I've ever had a creak in the stem / handlebar was when my stem was cracked. If the faceplate bolts were loose enough to creak, I suspect the handlebar would have rotated.
    Id go with this^^. Aluminium bar and that stem should be good. Beauty stems with the 5mm bolts. Carbon bars will creak and you have to be mindful of not too much tourque and carbon paste may be needed. Your bar/stem combo i would think would be good. Id start by just putting grease in between all the top headset assembly. Usually the beveled washer is where the creaks happen. Especially after the moon dust weeks of summer

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  23. #4198
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    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    Small bump compliance feels really good. Big hits for me also feel really good. The bike is more capable than I am.
    File this in under When Is It Okay To Stop Fiddling?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  24. #4199
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    23,405
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    CDI 2-8nm Adjustable Torque tool. On sale for $40
    The Link is the best price on the internet right now. They retail for over $100, and wholesale is over $55, not sure why this site is so cheap. I have purchased form them in the past, reputable tool company out of Florida.
    CDI is the torque tool division of Snap-On tools. Its an American company, and supplier to General Service Administration of the U.S. Government.
    This tool accepts any 1/4" hex bit you already own. Plus it includes a 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, T25, and 4" Long 4mm, 4" Long T25 Bit.
    I like the looks of that one ^^

    if folks don't trust the tork wrench why use it ?

    I have used them and i have a couple somewhere, things i deemed to need even pressure like a head gasskete but other wise my tork wrench was if i fuck this up I have to come back and fix it
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #4200
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Pagosa Springs CO
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    747
    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    I would suggest not worrying about it if these two requirements are met.
    I think you and jm2e are probably right. Thanks.

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