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Thread: Paint Sprayer Recs?
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07-21-2020, 07:29 AM #26Minion
- Join Date
- Jul 2020
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- 1
Airless Paint Sprayer
Hello everyone!
I want to get "Best Airless Paint Sprayer" which i use to home. But i don't have an idea about it. Please anybody refer me about sprayer. Which is the best for home.
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07-21-2020, 07:42 AM #27Banned
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- May 2007
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- Sandy, Utah
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- 14,410
depends what you'd like to spend. Titan, Graco....i'd go Graco. Also depends on how much you'll use. Many times or one? I needed a sprayer for basically one time use, bought the Harbor Freight for under $100. Worked just fine. Won't do anything more than the provided 25' hose, but it pumps just fine.
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07-21-2020, 09:40 AM #28
Pay no attention to the one post bot.
That said, I'm about to walk down this path. Took down 18 doors over the weekend, sanding them at my leisure as I won't move back in for 3 more months. Have a Home Depot cheapy gravity feed gun with regular and HVLP nozzles and a pancake compressor. Got some practice in shooting some color test panels, but I was getting a bit of a orange peel finish with the regular nozzle. Granted, I was shooting the paint color sample and not the actual product, and I didn't thin it because the directions didn't recommend thinning. Any suggestions for how to fight this? I didn't back roll, but if I'm back rolling who wouldn't I just roll them in the first place? Is backrolling a different technique than just rolling?I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.
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07-21-2020, 06:51 PM #29. . .
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07-21-2020, 07:35 PM #30
18 doors. Oh hell yeah.
What are you trying to sand off? Paint or stain?
Sanding sponges are your friend on doors. Set up on horses is ideal, adjust height for back pain reduction.
Vacuum, brush, vacuum, tack cloth.
The cordless sprayer is sweet but might be more money than he wants to spend. He'll be changing the garage door color every two weeks though.
A fine tip and a little practice.
Almost any new cheap hvlp w/a little adjustability will do.
If you decide to backroll, you gotta go with the pattern; insets, verticals, horizontals. Special roller covers for smooth materials help as well.
Letting them dry lying flat reduces chances of drips and sags.
Light coats, sand between, vac, tack, shoot. Glassy.
Good luck.
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07-21-2020, 07:41 PM #31
I know this is gonna sound crazy, but thin with windshield washer fluid. I used my Harbor Freight cheapo gun that I use for priming. Didn't want to use my good gun. Results were perfect. I was painting them white, thinning with blue windshield fluid. It doesn't change the color.
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07-21-2020, 07:53 PM #32
This is the video I watched before I tried it.
No orange peel- a couple large drips on the first door due to getting a little too aggro with the overlap.
After that, perfect results. I didn't touch the doors with a brush at all.
These were brand new pre- primed solid wood doors.
Make sure to strain it. I just eyeballed it, and have done it a bunch of times since on some of my girls' dance props for their studio.
You really can't over do it with the washer fluid- it evaporates either way.
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07-22-2020, 04:45 PM #33Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Vermont
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- 1,491
Over the past few years I've sprayed a house full of maple trim and a few doors but that was with water based lacquer, not paint. I used a $100 sprayer from Rocker that I got with a 20% off coupon. It did the job but now the plastic hose is brittle and cracked. Watching this thread for recommendations on a better quality replacement.
Follow Djongo's advice, he's spot on. Here's some tips I used that may or may not be helpful.
I made a take apart spray booth in the garage using strapping and plastic. One large back wall and two side walls. Mine was long enough to spray 10' baseboard. I put a cheap box fan (I swiped mine from the server room at work) in the center of the back wall to pull air through. Used a furnace filter over it to catch the over spray.
For the doors I made a jig that held the door flat using a small lag bolt on the top and bottom of the door allowing the door to spin all the way a around. Used a brace to hold it flat so I could spray one side. Once dry, I'd spin it to spray the other side. Thin coats, I got a mil gauge and checked that I had the right setting everytime I set up.
Good luck.
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07-22-2020, 04:54 PM #34
Stripping off stain. Original cabinets are cheap Home Depot medium oak doors with partical board sides. I planned on sanding them to strip the finish, fill the grain, then start the paint process. I intended on setting up a booth and taking over the entire garage to lay them flat to dry. 1 side at a time.
I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.
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07-22-2020, 08:37 PM #35
I had assumed regular doors, not cabinet doors...way easier. If you're going over old stain with paint, then you don't need to sand it all off. Just give it a good lap around with a sanding sponge. clean it. Shoot a coat of quality primer, tinted to the color you're painting them. Then a coat or 2 or 3 of the paint. A light sand between coats, then vac/tack, will be the difference between a B+ job and an A. Making the paint thicker a few mil at a time is the way to smooth surfaces.
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07-22-2020, 09:18 PM #36
Agreed that you don’t need to strip the finish. Just make sure they’re clean and give a light sand. Obviously sand off any cracked/peeling finish though.
I do think with them being oak you’ll want to fill the grain. Unless you don’t mind the look of wood grain, it will still show with oak. This stuff has worked well for me
https://www.homedepot.com/p/202057177 . Woodwhisperer on YouTube recently did an oak cabinet refinish if you want to get some more pointers.
For the spraying- if you get orange peel you’re not getting enough air to atomize the paint. Increase your air (unless your pancake compressor is the limiter here) or thin it a little at a time until it’ll lay down evenly. I like urethane trim/door paints. I recently used insl-x cabinet coat and it’s my new favorite. Thinned 10% with distilled water it leveled out nicely, but I use a 4stage turbine so ymmv.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDude chill its the padded room. -AKPM
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07-22-2020, 10:16 PM #37
Yeah, clean... 12 years of frying bacon in this kitchen with a piss poor over the range hood and the grease is in everything. It would take just as long to de-grease and clean vs. sanding to fresh wood. I also want to fill in the wood grain, so I figure you can't go wrong with the extra prep. As far as filling, I was recommended Timbermates from a friend who is really into woodworking. I checked up on it and it has some rave reviews.
I've concluded that DJSapp was never DJSapp, and Not DJSapp is also not DJSapp, so that means he's telling the truth now and he was lying before.
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09-03-2022, 08:44 AM #38Banned
- Join Date
- Sep 2022
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- 8
Paint sprayer specs
It would have been easier if I had assumed regular doors rather than cabinet doors. It is not necessary to sand old stain off before painting over it. A sanding sponge will do the trick. clean it. Paint them with quality primer in the color you intend to paint them.
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