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  1. #1
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    Code RSC -> Shimano, Matchmaker compatibility for 8100 Brakes?

    I just got a new to me bike (new bikes - hooray). It came with Code RSC brakes and I've run Shimano since 2008... I'm trying to handle the adjustment but I'm 4 solid rides in and still feel like it takes too much force to slow the bike down. My hands get tired mid-descent from having to actually exert decent pressure on the brake levers (I have vermicelli noodle arms and weigh 160 lbs). I've bled the brakes and messed with reach and contact adjustment. Admittedly, I haven't bled SRAM since 2010 but I don't think I'm fucking it up that bad.

    Question 1: Is there something obvious I'm missing and/or am I clearly screwing up the bleed because the brakes shouldn't be this different?

    If above is "no" and it's simply that Shimano <> SRAM brake feel I'm selling the Codes and getting some XTs. I can buy 8020s and 8120s for the same price. I know the "old" clamp position on 8000 series works with where I set up SRAM shifters but it looks like the new clamp position on 8100 series might conflict. I've found limited reports that SRAM matchmaker (on my bike now) will bolt right into 8100. If that's the case, I'll get those. If not, I'll go with the old, totally tired and out of date 8000s and deal with the 10% slower/softer/weaker braking power.

    Question 2: Can anyone confirm SRAM matchmaker works with 8100-series (or 9100-series, etc.) brakes?

    If above if also no... I'll be looking for some SRAM bar clamps. If anyone has 2 of them floating around a parts bin I'll take them and send beer money.
    "Vagenius"

  2. #2
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    It is a new spec.
    StokePimpin' ain't easy

  3. #3
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    Get bigger rotors?

  4. #4
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    Code RSC -&gt; Shimano, Matchmaker compatibility for 8100 Brakes?

    Stop trying to match and just get a regular bar clamp.
    In fact, I probably have several in my parts bin.

    And, if Code RSCs arenít stopping you, get Saints.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    And, if Code RSCs aren’t stopping you, get Saints.
    This. Or Magura MT7's.

    By the numbers, according to a few places that have done Dyno tests, Codes have more power than XT's. Of the commonly available brakes on the market, Saints have the most power, followed by the Maguras. Both of those give up a fair amount of ground on modulation though.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    And, if Code RSCs aren’t stopping you, get Saints.
    Yup ^. Or Zees which can usually be found for $200 for a set. I don't personally think trying to save weight on brakes makes much sense, you want those stoppers to stop. You're also probably not talking about that much of a weight savings either.

  7. #7
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    Trickstuff bitches!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Stop trying to match and just get a regular bar clamp.
    In fact, I probably have several in my parts bin.
    I was curious about this and looked into the SRAM matchmaker. I've been riding with mismatched Shimano brake levers and SRAM shifters on their own clamp, I'm surprised I haven't been arrested and shot by the style police for not maximizing the amount of exposed carbon handlebar (which is the the sole argument SRAM makes for getting a matchmaker).
    I'm never showing my face (or clamps) on a trail again.

  9. #9
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    Matchmaker/ispec is great for someone who wants Sram/Shim to decide where their brake levers are relative to their shift/dropper triggers. Apparently everyone has the same size fingers, thumbs and wrist angle preference according to them.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  10. #10
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    Snapped the rear adjuster off my rear code lever. Delicate little things sticking out there. Seems i have to by a complete lever assembly. Put the 220 rotors on today to try. I think theyre thicker a bit too

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Stop trying to match and just get a regular bar clamp.
    In fact, I probably have several in my parts bin.

    And, if Code RSCs aren’t stopping you, get Saints.
    I don't give a hoot about the extra clamps, showing off plastic bars, matching, etc. My concern was ability to place shifters where I want them because on my bike with M785s the shifter clamp is right where new style Shimano brake clamp currently is. That being said... if you're tired of those clamps send them my way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    Yup ^. Or Zees which can usually be found for $200 for a set. I don't personally think trying to save weight on brakes makes much sense, you want those stoppers to stop. You're also probably not talking about that much of a weight savings either.
    Totally fair... not trying to weight weenie it and not concerned with stopping power. 1-piston SLX and XT have worked for me before. I don't eat Big Macs. I just want to 1-finger brake with comfort.

    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Get bigger rotors?
    If I need 203mm rotors to stop... how the f*ck does dfinn stop?
    "Vagenius"

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daywalker View Post
    If I need 203mm rotors to stop... how the f*ck does dfinn stop?
    Burritos. I usually stop for burritos.

  13. #13
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    If you're on a 29er, 200/203 rotors up front are mandatory as far as I'm concerned. That said, I have a hard time believing that Code RSCs don't give you enough stop even with a 180 rotor. Sounds like something might be fucky? If you've bled them multiple times IDK what it would be though. Contaminated pads and/or rotors? Four piston Shimanos are gonna be *a bit* more powerful than the Codes but the two pistons definitely won't. Are you sure you have Code RSCs? The Rs don't have the 'swing link' so they're not as powerful.

    I'd try a 200/203 rotor up front. I like the Sram tri-align style adaptor way better than the shimano one. It's a lot easier to get good alignment. Sram's big boy rotors are 200 though so if you wanna use a 203 rotor of your choice, you'll just need 1mm washers as spacers. That's the setup I run with a TRP slotted rotor, pretty nice.

    If your brakes are really RSCs and you want to ditch them I might take them off your hands.

    Also, I've got a bunch of Sram clamps and matchmakers in the bin if you need those.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow... flying through the air.

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