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  1. #251
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
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    30,040
    Quote Originally Posted by iceman View Post
    Mighty white of him.
    Is that a mime climbing Everest?

    No it's an albino.
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
    And there will come a day when our ancestors look back...........

  2. #252
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by The AD View Post
    I'd put my money on Mandy Moore having more climbing experience and better overall fitness than most of the schmos on the mountain.
    I'll bet she could whip most of the keyboard goons posting on this thread too.

  3. #253
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    17,794
    yeah i heard the CBC interviewed by Anna Marie Tremonte, he said this is his 3rd sucessful everest summit but he has also been turned back twice

    BUT the first mountain he ever climbed ... was Everest

    is he a real mtn climber ?

    or part of the problem ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #254
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    4,916
    "mountaineering"

    Canadian documentary maker Elia Saikaly wrote on Facebook: “I cannot believe what I saw up there. Death. Carnage. Chaos.

    “Lineups. Dead bodies on the route and in tents at camp 4. People who I tried to turn back who ended up dying.

    “People being dragged down. Walking over bodies. Everything you read in the sensational headlines all played out on our summit night.”

  5. #255
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    base of the Bush
    Posts
    10,682
    As much as some like to bash Caroline, the requirements to climb with Alpenglow seem to weed out Everest adventure seekers by having an 8000 meter bar to cross.

    Perhaps other Guides should be made to have similar hurdles?


    alpenglowexpeditions.com


    ALTITUDE EXPERIENCE

    Climbers must have substantial climbing experience to join our Everest Expedition. Climbers must have climbed at least one 8,000 meter peak prior to joining us on an open enrollment. Climbers must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high- altitude camps and be able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude.

    TECHNICAL EXPERIENCE

    Must be able to climb moderate rock, ice, and snow terrain, often with an alpine pack on your back. You should be comfortable with camp craft in high-altitude camps, and able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude. Prior ascents of multiple 6000 - 7000 meter peaks is strongly recommended.

    FITNESS

    Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.
    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

  6. #256
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bellevue
    Posts
    5,281
    Quote Originally Posted by Bromontane View Post
    "mountaineering"
    I too have climbed Olympus on a weekend

  7. #257
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    17,627
    Quote Originally Posted by flowing alpy View Post
    reads like she previously got accused of a fake summit pic then a fight ensued and the police were involved. Sherpa she was with mentions her not being qualified then we read her husband had summited the day before. gotta wonder what drives this type of person, the need to summit at all cost.
    It was another couple, both police, who faked the summit pic.
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  8. #258
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    479
    I get the feeling that this type of situation happens all over this mountain.

    https://www.reddit.com/r/alpinism/co...come_may_2019/

  9. #259
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    7,029

  10. #260
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    Feb 2010
    Location
    north aspect
    Posts
    43,572
    climber died on Rainier today from rockfall while @10k.
    bF
    Alpental Indigenous

  11. #261
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    SF & the Ho
    Posts
    5,775
    Quote Originally Posted by Summit View Post
    It was another couple, both police, who faked the summit pic.
    They don't seem so dumb now for saving the cash and their lives w a fake pic

  12. #262
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by flowing alpy View Post
    climber died on Rainier today from rockfall while @10k.
    It happened on Liberty Ridge, while they were in their tents, so almost certainly around Thumb Rock. If so, crowding was likely a contributing cause here too, because there are not many protected bivy spots there, and if they are all taken, late comers are forced to pitch their tents in less protected spots. Liberty Ridge has a very high death to success ratio, especially for such a popular climb.

  13. #263
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    Oct 2003
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    写道
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    11,139
    Quote Originally Posted by Wapow View Post
    It happened on Liberty Ridge...
    Kinda gives new meaning to the phrase Give me Liberty or give me death, eh?
    °”rale, vato!

  14. #264
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Leadville, CO
    Posts
    3,963
    freeride/fulsus represent

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    My Company: Made in Colorado SKi Clothing- check it out

    Last year for 'Threads for Shreds' jacket trade in program!
    www.freeridesystems.com
    20% Maggot Discount Code = 'MAGGOT20'

  15. #265
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    truckee
    Posts
    10,597
    There was a good piece on Sherpas, the risks they take, and the huge amount of luxury crap they have to haul through the icefall--Bryant Gumbel's Real Sports #257 on HBO.

  16. #266
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    7,029

  17. #267
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Left Field
    Posts
    46,802
    Quote Originally Posted by MiCol View Post
    freeride/fulsus represent

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    Nice!

  18. #268
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Alpental
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    5,867
    Quote Originally Posted by Wapow View Post
    It happened on Liberty Ridge, while they were in their tents, so almost certainly around Thumb Rock. If so, crowding was likely a contributing cause here too, because there are not many protected bivy spots there, and if they are all taken, late comers are forced to pitch their tents in less protected spots. Liberty Ridge has a very high death to success ratio, especially for such a popular climb.
    Liberty Ridge isn't really that "popular" of route. Article in the Times this am said there were 98 attempts to climb via LR last year, 53 successful. Those aren't numbers that suggest over crowding as an issue.
    Move upside and let the man go through...

  19. #269
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Left Field
    Posts
    46,802
    If I could be camping on a beautiful mountain and get instantly squished in my sleep by a giant rock I think that would be a win.

  20. #270
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    SF & the Ho
    Posts
    5,775

    People dying on Mt. Everest, what else is new

    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    There was a good piece on Sherpas, the risks they take, and the huge amount of luxury crap they have to haul through the icefall--Bryant Gumbel's Real Sports #257 on HBO.
    Trekking back in the 80s, I saw nepalis going up to basecamps, trekking for miles before any road or helipad deliveries existed, carrying wooden cases of coke in bottles w head straps to hold the pack load. If there is stupid shit tourists want, nepalis will deliver
    Last edited by mcski; 05-31-2019 at 09:58 AM.

  21. #271
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    Oct 2003
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    写道
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    11,139
    Quote Originally Posted by iceman View Post
    If I could be camping on a beautiful mountain and get instantly squished in my sleep by a giant rock I think that would be a win.

    Better than being squished in your sleep by a really fat chick.
    °”rale, vato!

  22. #272
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    1,852
    Quote Originally Posted by Mofro261 View Post
    Liberty Ridge isn't really that "popular" of route. Article in the Times this am said there were 98 attempts to climb via LR last year, 53 successful. Those aren't numbers that suggest over crowding as an issue.
    it's got a 2 month climbing season https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvis...Routebrief.pdf those numbers are 1) average and 2) % successful. not hard to see how good weather window + weekend could lead to more people than the route can handle aka "crowding"

  23. #273
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    Dec 2008
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    Liberty Ridge has yOudge objective hazard risk. Part of the reason I'd never climb it. Same goes for the icefall on Everest, just not something I think is worth the gamble.

  24. #274
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    424
    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    it's got a 2 month climbing season https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvis...Routebrief.pdf those numbers are 1) average and 2) % successful. not hard to see how good weather window + weekend could lead to more people than the route can handle aka "crowding"
    There are limited permits available for the Thumb Rock camp that are issued by the climbing ranger. I think itís less than 12 people at any time. Thereís usually 4 or 5 tent platforms already chopped out from previous parties to choose from. Overcrowding hasnít been an issue that Iím aware of but it sure could be if it wasnít tightly regulated.

    This is the first death on LR since 2014 when a party of 6 were swept away. They were camped between Thumb Rock and the summit (for some unknown reason).

    Hereís a pretty good article about LR https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle...rainier-route/

  25. #275
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by Mofro261 View Post
    Liberty Ridge isn't really that "popular" of route. Article in the Times this am said there were 98 attempts to climb via LR last year, 53 successful. Those aren't numbers that suggest over crowding as an issue.
    The standard strategy for LR is to bivy at Thumb Rock, but there are very few protected spots there. The route is only "in" for about a month per year, and only about half of that month has decent enough weather for an attempt. Add in that is one of the "50 Classics" and you have a perfect scenario for "overcrowding". This issue is well known among local climbers. It also could have been a protective wall of choss above the bivy that fell on them. Either way, LR has an exceptionally high casualty rate for such an "easy" (fkt is 7 hours car to car) and popular climb.

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