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  1. #276
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    This is the Everest thread can you knock it off with all the mountaineer chat.
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
    And there will come a day when our ancestors look back...........

  2. #277
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    Oct 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viva View Post
    Better than being squished in your sleep by a really fat chick.
    Booner would disagree.

  3. #278
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    Jan 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wapow View Post
    The standard strategy for LR is to bivy at Thumb Rock, but there are very few protected spots there. The route is only "in" for about a month per year, and only about half of that month has decent enough weather for an attempt. Add in that is one of the "50 Classics" and you have a perfect scenario for "overcrowding". This issue is well known among local climbers. It also could have been a protective wall of choss above the bivy that fell on them. Either way, LR has an exceptionally high casualty rate for such an "easy" (fkt is 7 hours car to car) and popular climb.
    I haven't done the LR route, but I routinely go in and ski the Russell and the Flet from Mowich lk and stare up at the dirty bitch. Can you elaborate on who has done it in 7 hrs ??? car to car? From White River/Sunrise? Damn if that's true.
    Move upside and let the man go through...

  4. #279
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    Sep 2010
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    95
    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    There are limited permits available for the Thumb Rock camp that are issued by the climbing ranger. I think it’s less than 12 people at any time. There’s usually 4 or 5 tent platforms already chopped out from previous parties to choose from. Overcrowding hasn’t been an issue that I’m aware of but it sure could be if it wasn’t tightly regulated.

    This is the first death on LR since 2014 when a party of 6 were swept away. They were camped between Thumb Rock and the summit (for some unknown reason).

    Here’s a pretty good article about LR https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle...rainier-route/
    People ignore the permit regulations and rocks have struck people camped at Thumb Rock before. I've even heard stories of rocks passing through tents there, like bullets. A guy died 2015 after being forced to bivy on Liberty Cap after climbing LR, due to a storm. AFAIC, that's an LR death.

  5. #280
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    Oct 2006
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    Bellevue
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    5,054
    Quote Originally Posted by Mofro261 View Post
    I haven't done the LR route, but I routinely go in and ski the Russell and the Flet from Mowich lk and stare up at the dirty bitch. Can you elaborate on who has done it in 7 hrs ??? car to car? From White River/Sunrise? Damn if that's true.
    http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/2017/0...ar-to.html?m=1
    Same guy who did a sub 4 hour round trip on the disappointment cleaver

  6. #281
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    ya we all work out at the same gym

    honnold too

  7. #282
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    907
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  8. #283
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    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbrit View Post
    This is the Everest thread can you knock it off with all the mountaineer chat.
    I laughed
    You win 10 internets
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  9. #284
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    Dec 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtngirl79 View Post
    I'm bothered when Sherpas die.
    ^^^ This is my main concern as well ^^^

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  10. #285
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    Fresh Lake City
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiBo View Post
    I find the idea of climbing a mountain just to say you did completely ridiculous.
    Are there other reasons to climb a mountain other than just to say you did it?

    Mountaineering, mountain climbing, alpinism, etc are all pointless endeavors.

  11. #286
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    Dec 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    It's funny to see skiers get so unabashedly judgmental about mountaineers. Try reading the comments in a mainstream publication's coverage of an avalanche death during a heliskiing or backcountry trip because they're going to look pretty similar to many of those in this thread...
    Maybe this was lost on you, but we're not talking about Alex Lowe.

    We're talking about vain, clueless dickheads who put others at risk with the power of their checkbook - people for whom I have zero sympathy.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  12. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    We're talking about vain, clueless dickheads who put others at risk with the power of their checkbook
    so.... skiers?

  13. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    Maybe this was lost on you, but we're not talking about Alex Lowe.

    We're talking about vain, clueless dickheads who put others at risk with the power of their checkbook - people for whom I have zero sympathy.
    maybe this was lost on you.... BUT i would say 90% or more of the people trying to climb Everest have taken the time to train and prepare for the climb.

    I think most in this thread have succumb to the sensationalism of american media, and are mislabeling most of the climbers that travel to Everest to climb it. that said most mountaineers could be labeled as vain dickheads at some point. sort of goes with the territory imo

  14. #289
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    on the banks of Fish Creek
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    so.... skiers?

    Oh, don’t even get me started on those fuckers.......


    Just a bunch of fucking bastards coated in a nice bastard and sauce and stuffed with a nice fucking bastard stuffing. Cranberry dressing on the side.

  15. #290
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRUTAH View Post
    Are there other reasons to climb a mountain other than just to say you did it?
    To raise awareness for albino transgender heterochromians, obviously.

  16. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRUTAH View Post
    maybe this was lost on you.... BUT i would say 90% or more of the people trying to climb Everest have taken the time to train and prepare for the climb.

    I think most in this thread have succumb to the sensationalism of american media, and are mislabeling most of the climbers that travel to Everest to climb it. that said most mountaineers could be labeled as vain dickheads at some point. sort of goes with the territory imo
    Let's look at it this way. If a new geological survey came out showing that Gasherbrum I was the highest peak on the planet how many of these people would still prioritize Everest?
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  17. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    so.... skiers?
    Yup. Skiing is a selfish pointless endeavor. Just fun.

  18. #293
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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    Maybe this was lost on you, but we're not talking about Alex Lowe.

    We're talking about vain, clueless dickheads who put others at risk with the power of their checkbook - people for whom I have zero sympathy.

    ... Thom
    Nor are any of the commenters here Glen Plake.

    I think the American outfits require a certain level of skills, fitness, and prior experience on 6,000m+ mountains like Denali, Aconcagua, or Cho Oyu. If you've done any of those, I think the term "mountaineer" is fair. (I'm guessing that the majority of people commenting here have never been above 5,000m.)

    Maybe other outfits accept unqualified climbers in exchange for wads of cash, and, if so, that's super shitty. I don't share your abject scorn, but I definitely get the criticism. My guess, however, like Brutah, is that most of the climbers on Everest are qualified. But stories about qualified climbers making smart choices aren't newsworthy. Instead, we get a disproportionate number of horror stories, which lead to a generalized assumption that the worst is the norm. But, of course, it's not the whole story.

  19. #294
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    Brutah with the hot take.

  20. #295
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    Apr 2004
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    cordova,AK
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    I disagree about qualified. How many of these climbers would be there if there was not a business set up to get them there. I understand that is the way it is set up so you have to go through a company. My point how many of these climbers are out climbing big remote peaks on their own?
    A friend was guiding north side this year for the first time. They did not summit. On facebook he posted! " A quick note on this season. We made a choice to go after the crowds, and enjoyed a pure mountain experience with only our extended group."
    so apparently it is possible to still have an uncrowded trip.
    off your knees Louie

  21. #296
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    Aug 2006
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    4,246
    Wanna point out again that it’s really hard for generally smart and experienced people to make smart decisions when at high elevations. Lots of reproduced research via google scholar searching cognition and hypoxia.

  22. #297
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    Oct 2011
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    707
    Quote Originally Posted by BFD View Post
    I disagree about qualified. How many of these climbers would be there if there was not a business set up to get them there. I understand that is the way it is set up so you have to go through a company. My point how many of these climbers are out climbing big remote peaks on their own?
    A friend was guiding north side this year for the first time. They did not summit. On facebook he posted! " A quick note on this season. We made a choice to go after the crowds, and enjoyed a pure mountain experience with only our extended group."
    so apparently it is possible to still have an uncrowded trip.
    ^^^This. Let’s be honest. If you sit on the sofa drinking beer all day or haven’t climbed anything significant you won’t even make it close to the summit. The problem are those “qualified” climbers who checked enough boxes to do Everest but still don’t have enough climbing experience for if anything goes wrong. I can’t imagine an experienced climber dying on Everest because of exhaustion in a traffic jam.

  23. #298
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    Feb 2005
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    11,505
    Quote Originally Posted by BFD View Post
    A friend was guiding north side this year for the first time. They did not summit. On facebook he posted! " A quick note on this season. We made a choice to go after the crowds, and enjoyed a pure mountain experience with only our extended group."
    so apparently it is possible to still have an uncrowded trip.
    I came for the "pure mountain experience with only our extended group".

    Disgusting.

  24. #299
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    Mar 2007
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    Hyperspace!
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    I'll pipe up as a once alpinist, now armchair hack, old, opinionated asshole.
    I'd venture that 0.10 percent of these people are "qualified", and that is a really generous assessment.
    Having done it, holy shit what a fucking pain in the ass it is to setup an international climb of 6000+ m peak(s) in a remote region of the globe.
    Without the business setup, as BFD mentions, most of these folks wouldn't be anywhere near these peaks.
    The reason for this is intermingling with the afore mentioned pain in the ass and having the skills to climb said peaks.

    I've lost friends on Everest, the clusterfuck on K2 back in 2008, and numerous other peaks around the globe.
    These were all highly experienced people, most of whom I consider more experienced than me - at least at the time of their death.
    Because you can make it up a peak with a guide in assumed perfect conditions will never be a qualification, at least to me.
    If you can make it up a peak on your own, then you are qualified ,with the caveat that ma nature's give o' fuck meter about any of us is pinned at zero.

  25. #300
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRUTAH View Post
    Are there other reasons to climb a mountain other than just to say you did it?

    Mountaineering, mountain climbing, alpinism, etc are all pointless endeavors.
    Mallory was quoted as saying " because its there " probably the most famous quote in mountaineering

    https://www.adventure-journal.com/20...use-its-there/

    a short essay on his quote ^^

    "" It sounds so glib and care free, almost condescending in its response to the journalist who asked the question. Mallory was part of the elite and perhaps if he had to explain beyond three words why he wanted to go, the journalist wouldn’t understand anyway. He’d never entered into the realm of profound spiritualism that Mallory had, nor would he understand the work ethic or suffering required.

    But the journalist should have understood the critically important context of Mallory’s history: He was a British veteran, fresh from the horrors of World War I. Mallory had gone to war and came home to find his old life gone, many of his old friends dead or transformed by the trauma of the war. Before the war, he knew exactly where he fit in society, but now, everything had changed and he seemed to have no place at all. And like so many who survived this great, horrible war, like so many who have survived wars, he went in search of direction and meaning.

    I think Mallory went to climb Mt. Everest because it was there when so much else in his life no longer was. The mountain provided a focus. It gave him reason to live when, following the unspeakable experience of the trenches, there may not have been anything else to live for. Why not climb? ""
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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