Results 1 to 25 of 42
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04-26-2019, 05:50 PM #1
Building mags - what does this mean? (Foundation terminology)
I could ask the architect, or a more appropriate forum, but let's see what a group of dentists thinks:
What's the T&P mean? (#5 rebar, yes, but what does that abbreviation tell me to do with it?)
Dude chill its the padded room. -AKPM
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04-26-2019, 06:12 PM #2
Building mags - what does this mean? (Foundation terminology)
T&P drain pipe, extends out 12” Im assuming it’s connected to the temperature and pressure valve on the water heater but I’m not a plumber
“I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.”
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04-26-2019, 10:36 PM #3
Is this a plan view of a basement wall?
I could be wrong but I think it's a typo. It's supposed to say t&b which stands for top and bottom. That is (2) #5 at the top of the 12" deep concrete header and (2) # 5 at the bottom. Extend them 12" past the opening that the header is intended to span...
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04-26-2019, 10:55 PM #4
Close, it's a footer/stem wall, with crawlspace opening shown. It's a small addition to the back of our house. The inspector gave the OK to pour and this is what I see after they pulled the forms:
No header over the crawlspace opening . It's 27" from the footer to the top of the stem wall, so a 12" header would make a snug 15" tall opening (should be 18" minimum).Dude chill its the padded room. -AKPM
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04-26-2019, 11:03 PM #5
Building mags - what does this mean? (Foundation terminology)
Top & Bottom. Misprinted. Look at that P compared to the other B. Somehow the bottom half got cut off.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsBest Skier on the Mountain
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Squaw Valley, USA
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04-26-2019, 11:54 PM #6
Building mags - what does this mean? (Foundation terminology)
Looks like they laid out the anchor bolts nicely for the framers and where’s the header beam in the picture? Usually you want to form it up put the rebar in then pour, a 12” pip header usually has a couple rectangular #3 or #4 bar bands to tie the #5 bar in the corners, something similar to this
Last edited by snoqpass; 04-27-2019 at 01:42 AM.
“I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.”
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04-27-2019, 01:34 AM #7Jacket Cobbler
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looks like it was supposed to say "tip" extended 12" beyond opening
but someone redlined it and fixed the typo "TI I " into T&P which glancing at my Ching bible i see no references to
the bigger question imo is why pip instead of cmu? what part of the country is this?www.freeridesystems.com
ski & ride jackets made in colorado
maggot discount code TGR20
ok we'll come up with a solution by then makers....
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04-27-2019, 07:56 AM #8
Definitely a typo. As mentioned above supposed to be T&B. Top and Bottom. Standard rebar note for foundations.
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04-27-2019, 08:22 AM #9
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04-27-2019, 09:46 AM #10Registered User
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Oh the irony.
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04-27-2019, 02:39 PM #11
Looks to me like common sense prevailed when they poured. It's not like you can't span that silly little distance with wood without the loss in height that you mentioned....just run the sill across and put a wood header(if needed) on the sill.....
If it weren't for serendipity, there'd be no dipity at all
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04-27-2019, 03:01 PM #12
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04-27-2019, 03:04 PM #13
This is highly probable.
That would typically be overkill for a house (though it certainly wouldn’t hurt, I wouldn’t detail it that way because of the unnecessary cost and one might wind up being poured in with the concrete). Extending beyond the bearing point for the development length of the bar is sufficient for most concrete beams.
Depends on if the intent is to hang the joists from the sill plate with a top mount hanger or if it will be framed on top with a box joist. If the former, still possible but some detailing required. If the latter, it shouldn’t be an issue and wood should be able to span that span as mentioned (depending on the loading of course).
*these are all just general comments and of course specific instances call for different solutions*
And what is this “pip” that people keep mentioning? Is it phones autocorrecting from “cip” for cast in place?"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
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04-27-2019, 03:06 PM #14
Poured in place
“I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.”
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04-27-2019, 03:31 PM #15
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04-27-2019, 04:10 PM #16
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04-27-2019, 04:16 PM #17
I’m just up the way from ya but it’s always us just adopting your code and changing it so it works with our system (LSD) so you’re probably way ahead of us in design requirements.
I’d still think adding column/zone reinforcement to a wall is overkill unless designing to a higher ductility, but hey - we can only do what the code requires of us. And then be berated by contractors for how over designed things are"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
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04-27-2019, 04:20 PM #18
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04-27-2019, 04:45 PM #19"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
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04-27-2019, 08:04 PM #20
Building mags - what does this mean? (Foundation terminology)
Sometimes it was like a giant iron IKEA product were you scratch your head and wonder how are we going to make it look like the picture
Last edited by snoqpass; 04-27-2019 at 09:59 PM.
“I have a responsibility to not be intimidated and bullied by low life losers who abuse what little power is granted to them as ski patrollers.”
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04-27-2019, 09:12 PM #21
You probably just didn’t read the instructions in 19 languages, though none would be accurate
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
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04-30-2019, 07:20 AM #22
so house(OP)...who is taking responsibility, what happened, and what's with so many pads having been poured?
If it weren't for serendipity, there'd be no dipity at all
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04-30-2019, 10:21 AM #23
Happy ending - no responsibility needs to be taken. The architect stopped by to take a look, and while he wasn't thrilled, he admitted it was overbuilt and that we can still attain adequate shear hold down. He says using 4x bottom plate on that shear wall above the opening, anchoring it to the foundation, and nailing off the sheathing to that fat bottom plate should suffice. Someone mentioned the need to hang joists - and yeah we'll probably size up to a 4x ledger to span that opening (for those who haven't noticed - joists will hang from a ledger anchored into the stem wall).
All those pads are for posts supporting 4x8 beams. These beams hold up bearing walls in the addition above (edit: only two walls; no bearing wall above the center two pads). This is a one story addition, so I think it'll be pretty stout! Longest span for floor joists is <10' due to the beams, so we can use shallower floor trusses/I-joists and keep a decent crawlspace depth. Full floor framing pic:
Anyone here have experience with trimjoist type floor joists? Architect is concerned they have more bounce, since they're built from 2x oriented flat, but with our short spans I think we'd be fine (I have stayed at a holiday inn express). I like the option of running ducting through the open web of the trimjoists. https://trimjoist.com/. I haven't taken the time to look at stiffness specs but I presume those would enlighten the "bounciness" question.Last edited by house; 04-30-2019 at 11:10 AM.
Dude chill its the padded room. -AKPM
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04-30-2019, 11:51 AM #24
I'm confused ( a perennial state)....you state the longest span of the joists is less than 10' due to the 4x8 beams....how so? are your joists are running perpendicular to those beams? in which case I don't understand the ledgers....but I do see the arrows on the drawings...
What about the 4x8 beams...they are the same height as the joists?If it weren't for serendipity, there'd be no dipity at all
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04-30-2019, 11:56 AM #25Registered User
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I haven't used that exact product but I wouldn't be too concerned about "bounciness". With 16o.c. and shorter spans it should be fine. Also the 3/4 t&g should tie the whole diaphragm together nicely. Seems like those bearing walls are being built for some serious loads but maybe code dictates it where you're at. Seems pretty damn stout for a small addition from a framing perspective.
I'm seeing joists run parallel to beams. I'd assume beams are to joist height since he said they're there to carry bearing walls above.Last edited by lifelinksplit; 04-30-2019 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Trains confusion
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