Gravel/Bikepack nerds enter...

[Phall]

Given that this was my old neighborhood, color me intrigued.

Neat, will check it out after this meeting. I remember seeing the application and I debated it, but when you had to submit videos, etc, i kind of gave up.

[Dee Hubbs]

Weekend project:

[joetron]

We just built up our first LG t100 Rover this afternoon .It’s a beaut.
It’s promptly getting reboxed for shipment to KopiRed. Yeew


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[buttahflake]

What are the odds I see the Crux I ordered back in October, sometime this summer?

[jamal]

Trying inserts (vittoria) plus silca sealant. Hit some shit real hard today in a gravel race and didn't get any punctures so it seems to have helped. Pretty easy to get shoved in there too. $40 msrp does seem a bit steep for a piece of foam and a valve. Gives me a little more peace of mind about the new fancy rims at least.



Used road bike for the tt yesterday, got a pinch flat really early on but the silca stuff did the job and I just had to fill it back up. We'll see how that holds up tomorrow...

[Kopi_Red]

We just built up our first LG t100 Rover this afternoon .It’s a beaut.
It’s promptly getting reboxed for shipment to KopiRed. Yeew


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

.

[Dee Hubbs]

Weekend project:

95% done. Brand new caliper blew up in install, and we are thinking about changing bar shape, so I left a bit of steerer tube uncut, and didn't rewrap the bars.
Just hovering around 18.5lbs the way you should weigh it, with all the parts on it (pedals, cages, computer mount, sealant).

[Iowagriz]

That is sharp! As was the Karen J. build. She is a great embasador for the sport.

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

[Dee Hubbs]

That is sharp! As was the Karen J. build. She is a great embasador for the sport.

This is her new bike. Ready for race season!

[Supermoon]

Looks great. Super clean

[Toddball]

Drop bar people: my hands and wrists hurt after relatively low mileage on my gravel/road/rigid bike. Currently running a very short stem, 46cm Cowchipper, and Supacaz Super Sticky Kush bar tape that is many years old. Generally riding in the hoods most of the time these days, but once the hands start feeling shitty no bar position feels good. Anyone with hand troubles figure out how to fix them?

Considering drastic measures such as Redshift drop bar grips under the tape, Oury grips in the drops, and/or just buying really long bar tape and wrapping it as thick as possible.

[Peruvian]

Drop bar people: my hands and wrists hurt after relatively low mileage on my gravel/road/rigid bike. Currently running a very short stem, 46cm Cowchipper, and Supacaz Super Sticky Kush bar tape that is many years old. Generally riding in the hoods most of the time these days, but once the hands start feeling shitty no bar position feels good. Anyone with hand troubles figure out how to fix them?

Considering drastic measures such as Redshift drop bar grips under the tape, Oury grips in the drops, and/or just buying really long bar tape and wrapping it as thick as possible.

You could place some gel pads below the tape, but it sounds like your bike fit may be the issue and it's putting too much pressure on your hands. Have you considered the tilt and height of your saddle?

[Toddball]

You could place some gel pads below the tape, but it sounds like your bike fit may be the issue and it's putting too much pressure on your hands. Have you considered the tilt and height of your saddle?

I have messed around with saddle parameters, but I don't really know what I'm doing. I think my saddle is about level, and also about the same height as my bars [edit: neither of these appears to be true, actually]. I slid it forward on the rails almost as far as possible back in my long stem days. Maybe I should slide it back some more and tilt the nose up?

Here's a photo of the bike in question: 2003 Surly Karate Monkey parts bin special.

[Dee Hubbs]

Looks great. Super clean

Not as clean as I would like.
Shimano are out of stock of the EW-RS910, bar end Di2 A-junction. And her stem is so short its hard to make the under stem A-junction clean looking.
Also the Revel frames have great internal routing, all the tubes are full length internally, BUT that requires you to abide by their decision on how it should be routed:
-An internal tube from the rear brake to the left side of the head tube, but what if i want to run brakes in a Euro fashion?
-An internal tube from the seat post to the right side of the head tube, great for a dropper, but not for Di2 cabling.
I'd love to put a Di2 B-junction in the seat post area, and cable both the rear derailleur and the battery to the B-junction, and only send a single wire to the A-junction up at the bars. But with their set up I need to have a Di2 wire sticking out of both sides of the head tube. The left Di2 wire can mate with the brake cable with some heat shrink, but the right Di2 wire just flops around in the wind.
I considered using the Dremel with a flexi shaft and get up inside the internal BB area with a cutoff wheel to open up the internal routing tubes, but its not my bike.....

[chaka]

Drop bar people: my hands and wrists hurt after relatively low mileage on my gravel/road/rigid bike. Currently running a very short stem, 46cm Cowchipper, and Supacaz Super Sticky Kush bar tape that is many years old. Generally riding in the hoods most of the time these days, but once the hands start feeling shitty no bar position feels good. Anyone with hand troubles figure out how to fix them?

Considering drastic measures such as Redshift drop bar grips under the tape, Oury grips in the drops, and/or just buying really long bar tape and wrapping it as thick as possible.

I'm loving the wolftooth super cushy "Supple" tape. Certainly not light, but probably lighter than a double wrap. Nice feel dry or wet. I have larger hands so the wider diameter feels fine

[Peruvian]

I have messed around with saddle parameters, but I don't really know what I'm doing. I think my saddle is about level, and also about the same height as my bars [edit: neither of these appears to be true, actually]. I slid it forward on the rails almost as far as possible back in my long stem days. Maybe I should slide it back some more and tilt the nose up?

Here's a photo of the bike in question: 2003 Surly Karate Monkey parts bin special.

I was told several years ago that one thing to self-check is how easy it is to lift your hands off your bars while keeping your back straight. if you can’t do that, check the tilt of your saddle and consider nose up until lifting your hands is easy.

[climberevan]

Yeah, that saddle is pretty nose-high and also pretty far forward. Some people genuinely like theirs that way, but unless you're certain, I'd move it back at least a cm and level it (phone inclinometer apps that we have for ski slope angle checking work well). Start there. You might find rolling the bars up a bit to be helpful as well--depending on your position, flat hoods might actually cause a bit of uncomfortable wrist bend. Some prefer them to be angled up so that they naturally catch the meat of the hand. I'd also wonder about the very short stem--counterintuitively it could be better to run a more normal length one to alleviate lower arm problems.

The "lift your hands" thing works to get the balance right, but it doesn't take into account body geometry. The resulting position will also change based on how hard you're going when you do it. For example: on my road bike my bars are 8cm lower than my saddle, which is very slightly nose up (like all of mine), and the saddle is pretty far forward, and I'm using a fairly long stem. Long and low, and all of that. At near threshold pace and above it feels great, but when I'm just noodling along there is a ton of weight on my hands.

[Iowagriz]

Dialing in the fit on the new to me Cutthroat has been interesting. The hoods weren't really comfortable like the road bike. Then I read that my bike and flared bars (in general) are designed to be ridden in the drops. Raising the bars, a slightly longer stem, handlebar rotation to get the hoods at a better angle all helped greatly. Ultimately, I think I had to rethink the concept and go away from the racing fits ingrained in my head.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

[Iowagriz]

Testing food sources mid-ride to see what works and can be stomachache. This was pretty good, but be wary of the oil if out camping.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

[FJ62]

Longshot, but anyone know of any safe places to park a car for a few days in/near Butte? A buddy is riding the Tour Divide and I'm going to tag along for a couple of days and then ride back to my car.

[climberevan]

Testing food sources mid-ride to see what works and can be stomachache. This was pretty good, but be wary of the oil if out camping.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Is ingesting the bear spray intended to be a systemic deterrent, like injecting insecticide into soil near trees?

[sethschmautz]

Is ingesting the bear spray intended to be a systemic deterrent, like injecting insecticide into soil near trees?

I'm thinking seasoning...

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

[Iowagriz]

Like yard spray, I sprayed it in a 25ft circle to create my defensive zone.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

[Peruvian]

Volume 2



The shakedown ride was essentially in my backyard in my namesake town.

[kathleenturneroverdrive]

Anyone want some cheap gravel tires that have been collecting dust in my garage? None have had any punctures that I'm aware of. I just grabbed them off the wall and snapped these photos, but I'll clean them all up before shipping.

Specialized Pathfinder Pro 42
$50 + ship
Might have 1,000 miles at most on these. They ride/look about brand new to me. Just selling because I got the new sworks version of this tire.





Bontrager GR1 Team Issue 40.
$30 + ship
These are barely used, less than 200 miles at most. I pulled them off because one tire (can't remember which) had a little wobble when mounted. I swapped to other tires before investigating if it was a mounting or tire issue. The other tire was perfect. Thought I'd sell them both as that wobble might not appear for someone else, and if it does, the price is pretty fair for one barely used GR1.



Clement/Donnely MSO 42.
$20 + shipp.
The tires are both the same - they just changed the company name between me buying them. The new Donnely version is tubeless-ready. The old Clement one is not. Not sure on miles on these, but the tread looks great.



Also, the photo uploader seems to be struggling. PM me and I can email or text more tread/sidewall photos