Dynafit Boots Forward Lean FIX

[cliffhucker]

Started using a pair of Dynafit Mercurys this season, l liked the fit but the forward lean has bothered me constantly. After some searching I found I am not the only one. The normal forward lean adjust is just a small metal piece that flips over (1st photo), range is 15-18 degrees, it just feels way steeper than my Scarpa and Tecnica boots. However, by adjusting the hole location, one can reduce the forward lean even more. I had heard of people welding and re-drilling a hole, however I did some reverse engineering and designed a new block using CAD with enough adjustment to reduce the forward lean another 3 degrees. This is a 3D printed prototype. This is probably the limit of how far it can be adjusted with a new part, since other hardware starts to interfere when the hole is moved any lower. Pretty easy to see the difference. My prototypes are in ABS plasic, I am looking at having a metal version fabbed as a final concept. You do have to trim a little boot plastic yourself for installation, but its a small task for improving the boot. If anyone is interested let me know, and I'll put a quote together for having a few extras made. Livingroom test definitely feels better, the math says its at least 3 degrees "uprightness." Will update on snow results later this week.

Cheers!

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[Spyderjon]

Nice work.

[XXX-er]

" The normal forward lean adjust is just a small metal piece that flips over (1st photo), range is 15-18 degrees, it just feels way steeper than my Scarpa and Tecnica boots. However, by adjusting the hole location, one can reduce the forward lean even more "

Nice work but from your write up I'm not understanding if you are you trying to get more forward lean or less forward lean, it looks to me like you are going for more forward lean ?

So that piece will work for Mercury and Vulcan (i've had both) YMMV but I am pretty happy with the more upright setting

[cliffhucker]

" The normal forward lean adjust is just a small metal piece that flips over (1st photo), range is 15-18 degrees, it just feels way steeper than my Scarpa and Tecnica boots. However, by adjusting the hole location, one can reduce the forward lean even more "

Nice work but from your write up I'm not understanding if you are you trying to get more forward lean or less forward lean, it looks to me like you are going for more forward lean ?

So that piece will work for Mercury and Vulcan (i've had both) YMMV but I am pretty happy with the more upright setting

It will reduce forward lean, and the part is identical for Vulcan ans Mercury. I think it might fit another model as well, maybe tlt7? The upright setting at 18 degrees still feels a lot more aggressive than other boots with similar stated angles. I have a bad ACL and the extra lean really seems to add more stress than a less agressive angle for me personally...

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[Toddball]

If you are trying to reduce forward lean, you need to flip your part around in the last two photos. Looks good, though.

[cliffhucker]

If you are trying to reduce forward lean, you need to flip your part around in the last two photos. Looks good, though.

Todd, actually its counterintuitive at first glance, but they are oriented correctly to reduce forward lean. Initially I thought the same thing as you, but if you check it out, the holes oriented in the lowest position reduce forward lean most. Lou on Wildsnow shows this as well...

https://www.wildsnow.com/wp-content/...3-boot-mod.jpg



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[Toddball]

Todd, actually its counterintuitive at first glance, but they are oriented correctly to reduce forward lean. Initially I thought the same thing as you, but if you check it out, the holes oriented in the lowest position reduce forward lean most. Lou on Wildsnow shows this as well...

https://www.wildsnow.com/wp-content/...3-boot-mod.jpg



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You're right, forgot the part you're modding is on the spoiler, not the cuff.

[XXX-er]

Probably the ONE

[sethschmautz]

I would be interested pending price. How thick is the material you are using? I have access to a CNC router that can do up to .25" aluminum.

Seth

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[cliffhucker]

I would be interested pending price. How thick is the material you are using? I have access to a CNC router that can do up to .25" aluminum.

Seth

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Its identical to the original thickness, .197 inches. If you can machine, I can share the part file. Thickness can be adjusted a bit without any issue. Price was 9.50/piece in ABS plastic, would be 20.00 /piece in 3D printed steel, ~30.00 in Aluminum. It would be better to just CNC than 3D print, but right now its essier for me to just print than order a large enough batch for CNC. Im going to try the plastic in some low consequence terrain and see what the result is. The final piece will have a few minor adjustments for strength...

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[NorCalNomad]

The much more polished version of the splitboard hardboot tlt6 mod.

[sethschmautz]

Its identical to the original thickness, .197 inches. If you can machine, I can share the part file. Thickness can be adjusted a bit without any issue. Price was 9.50/piece in ABS plastic, would be 20.00 /piece in 3D printed steel, ~30.00 in Aluminum. It would be better to just CNC than 3D print, but right now its essier for me to just print than order a large enough batch for CNC. Im going to try the plastic in some low consequence terrain and see what the result is. The final piece will have a few minor adjustments for strength...

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I will check with our router operator tomorrow and see when he's running .25 next. I would be happy to throw a couple in there and ship them to you after they are machined. I'll pm with an email address.

Seth

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[cliffhucker]

I will check with our router operator tomorrow and see when he's running .25 next. I would be happy to throw a couple in there and ship them to you after they are machined. I'll pm with an email address.

Seth

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Awesome!

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[sethschmautz]

Sounds like we cut .25 all the time. If you send me the file I'll get it on the router next week. I sent you a pm with my email address.

Sh

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[wantriot]

+1 for super keenly interested in a pair of these lean reducers! Have mercurys with big calfs and would love to relaxe the stance.

[shafty85]

I’m also interested. Would steel not be better than aluminum for longevity?


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[sethschmautz]

Yes, quite likely. We don't route steel, just aluminum. We would need to have steel parts water jetted. I'm not sure what longevity would be like with aluminum, but it would be pretty easy to keep an eye on.

Seth

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[abraham]

I'm also interested in these. I think other things will wear out on my boots before the lean lock is an issue

[SeatownSlackey]

im in for a reasonable cost as well

[NorCalNomad]

Believe stock ones are aluminum.

For those of you who are even a tiny bit handy, you could definitely do this with a hand drill + standard twist drills, hack/ coping saw, and a hand file.

[cliffhucker]

UPDATE: Sethschmautz is working on CNC of an aluminum piece. I adjusted the specs slightly to provide a better fit. I'll post up a few photos once they come in and we'll take a final count from there. I am not sure if I made it clear earlier but the user does have to remove a little plastic in order for this to work.

[SeatownSlackey]

Guessing this never came to be?

[sethschmautz]

So... Not sure what Cliffhucker ended up doing. I built a few prototypes. I sent him one pair and (with his permission) kept two pair - one for my Vulcans and one for my wife's mercuries. They are installed, but haven't skied them yet.

Cliffhucker, did you get a chance to ski them yet?

Seth

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[m9a321]

I know this is an old thread but are there any of these inserts available?

[cliffhucker]

Been a while since I posted on here. I stood them for 2 seasons, saw a bit of improvement but ultimately splurged on some new Scarpa Maestrale RS last Fall. I can set you up with the part file, I think the 3D print is as good as the steel version