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Thread: Hardwood plugs
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03-05-2019, 07:07 PM #1
Hardwood plugs
So I’ve got to remount a ski with holes too close together. I’m going to use epoxy and hardwood plugs but I’m wondering if there’s a particular dowel size that works best. I’ve been putting a section of dowel into my drill chuck and sanding it until it fits. This is a pain in the ass makes a dusty mess and is time consuming.
But Ellen kicks ass - if she had a beard it would be much more haggard. -Jer
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03-05-2019, 07:28 PM #2
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03-05-2019, 07:32 PM #3
See what size hardwood your local store has that is as close to the old holes as possible. drill out the old holes to fit this, heat up the epoxy to make it runny and flow into all the gaps and into the core.
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03-05-2019, 07:47 PM #4
These work REALLY well. I've successfully overlapped holes using these plugs too:
https://utahskigear.com/shop/winters...plugs-100-pcs/
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03-05-2019, 08:10 PM #5
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03-05-2019, 08:10 PM #6
I've had this in the back of my mind for a couple of weeks, and am throwing these musings out for discussion.
I've liked the idea of tapping a thread onto a dowel, but the challenge lies in finding a 12AB die.
[edit]I was trying to remember who described this. I see above while I was editing that it was @margotron.[/edit]
I then thought about tapping a standard 12-24 thread, but the challenge there lies in re-threading the ski. Going from a coarse 12AB to a finer thread doesn't sound like a good idea. It won't expose much clean wood, either.
I'm not too big on enlarging to tap a 1/4-20 hole, but this may be the only option for this strategy.
I've done the aluminum screw plug that @1000-oaks described. A 12-24 aluminum screw worked fine in this application. I didn't need to re-tap the ski.
For this particular ski however, I'd love to allow for drilling out the plugged holes.
The fiberglass/epoxy patch that @xxx-er endorses is great, but tedious. I may just do that again.
Comments? Yeah, I know ... OCD.
... Thom
Sent from my LM-G710VM using TapatalkLast edited by galibier_numero_un; 03-05-2019 at 08:31 PM.
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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03-05-2019, 08:16 PM #7
I’ve used toothpicks and epoxy to fill holes but not for holes that are going to be close or overlapping.
But Ellen kicks ass - if she had a beard it would be much more haggard. -Jer
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03-05-2019, 08:28 PM #8
I couldn't find @margotron's post on my smart phone, but it's in the MYOFS thread, around 12/29/2018.
I found a segment of his post quoted, and it looks like he also endorses recutting the thread in the ski (expose clean wood).
Overkill? Perhaps, but I like that.
[Edit] Post #2403
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/....php?p=5511083
... Thom
Sent from my LM-G710VM using TapatalkLast edited by galibier_numero_un; 03-05-2019 at 09:05 PM.
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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03-05-2019, 09:04 PM #9Registered User
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Bamboo BBQ skewers fit in the holes perfectly and you might have some hiding in your kitchen drawers, or you can get a bag of them at safeway for cheap
i don't mount holes that are too close, I move things a littleLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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03-05-2019, 09:08 PM #10
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03-05-2019, 09:25 PM #11Registered User
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ya so maybe they need to do this at epic ski .com but can any spesh-al flower amongst you dentists feel the difference moving 1 cm or 1/2 an inch on a powder ski?
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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03-05-2019, 11:51 PM #12
My kusalas are basically unskiable with dukes and ski very well with dynafits. The line is maybe 1cm apart from binding to binding.
But Ellen kicks ass - if she had a beard it would be much more haggard. -Jer
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03-06-2019, 09:29 AM #13
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03-06-2019, 09:31 AM #14
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03-07-2019, 07:56 PM #15
Margotron... Are you cutting your wood plugs flush with the top sheet?
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03-08-2019, 01:15 AM #16one-track mind
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03-08-2019, 09:16 AM #17
Yup... I agree with this.
Some skis are more sensitive than others... But I played with the mount on my old sickles and they were fine with small moves until all of the sudden they were not and skied like shit with the last extra click.
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03-08-2019, 10:07 AM #18Registered User
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No worries about end grain capillary action with wood? Seems to me it would suck in water.
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03-08-2019, 10:10 AM #19
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03-08-2019, 11:02 AM #20
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03-08-2019, 12:51 PM #21
This. I fucked up a mount last year and filled with wood dowels. I dremeled down a bit and epoxied over the top and then chiseled flat when it dried.
Now that I'm out of the condo, have a house with a garage, and no longer doing kitchen table mounts, hopefully won't have the same fuckup again.
Margotron, I like the thread idea. Thanks. Might be overkill versus just a wood plug pounded in with good epoxy (I've overlapped holes using that method and they skied fine). But the extra peace of mind makes sense. May do that on my next remount.
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03-09-2019, 09:43 AM #22
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03-09-2019, 03:03 PM #23
Re exposed pores:
I dremel flush or slightly past flush then GFlex over the top of the dry wood.
Re wood choice: if you can get ring-porous hardwood dowels (oak, ash) that's your best bet. They barely absorb water in the first place vs semi- and demi-porous. Bamboo isn't wood, it's a grass, and if you seal the pores (which are large and will take epoxy), it's pretty impregnable.
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03-09-2019, 04:04 PM #24
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03-09-2019, 08:03 PM #25Banned
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