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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    2,612

    Home Mechanic ?s

    couple of how to ?s for some home maintenance on my SB 5.5:

    1) is it possible to clean and relube a CK PF24 without removing the cups from the frame and without the tool? Iíve watched some videos and itís not very hard to expose the bearings (thus not needing the tool) but just wondering if itís feasible while leaving the BB installed. Also seems like green grease from park tool is a bit too tacky, think the molybdenum stuff from yeti would work? (I have some with a perfect applicator for the bearing rings) or better to go with something like slick honey.?

    2) how can you evaluate whether you need crank/BB spacers, when I removed the old XT I feel like there MIGHT have been one small spacer but now I canít seem to find it, new one is an XT crank, wolftooth 30t ring. Frame has MRP AMg V2 bash guard on it. Doesnít seem like a spacer would make a difference in terms of chain line and frame rub but not sure if Iím looking/approaching the spacer question in the correct fashion.

    Cheers!
    Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?

    fuck that noise.

    gmen.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    392
    1) not familiar with that particular BB, but you want to use a waterproof grease for bearings, especially BBs and headsets. Phil Wood is good. Slick Honey is for suspension.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    7,914
    Quote Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac View Post
    couple of how to ?s for some home maintenance on my SB 5.5:
    2) how can you evaluate whether you need crank/BB spacers, when I removed the old XT I feel like there MIGHT have been one small spacer but now I can’t seem to find it, new one is an XT crank, wolftooth 30t ring. Frame has MRP AMg V2 bash guard on it. Doesn’t seem like a spacer would make a difference in terms of chain line and frame rub but not sure if I’m looking/approaching the spacer question in the correct fashion.
    They make tools to check chainline, but I find that just eyeballing it works fine. Put the chain in the middle cog on the cassette. Stand behind the bike and sight down the chain. Is it straight?

    Next, check the crank. Can you push it side to side through the bottom bracket? Is there any slop? If yes, you need a spacer. If no, it's probably fine. If it doesn't spin fairly freely, then it may be binding up, which means you have a spacer in there that you shouldn't (or you way over-torqued the bearing preload adjustment).

    XT's with their bearing preload cap + pinch bolt system are pretty forgiving in terms of setup. The width of the BB doesn't need to be super spot on to get them running smoothly. And getting the chainline precisely right often doesn't matter that much on modern bikes. If your chainring lines up ok with your chainguide, you're probably fine.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    2,612
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    They make tools to check chainline, but I find that just eyeballing it works fine. Put the chain in the middle cog on the cassette. Stand behind the bike and sight down the chain. Is it straight?

    Next, check the crank. Can you push it side to side through the bottom bracket? Is there any slop? If yes, you need a spacer. If no, it's probably fine. If it doesn't spin fairly freely, then it may be binding up, which means you have a spacer in there that you shouldn't (or you way over-torqued the bearing preload adjustment).

    XT's with their bearing preload cap + pinch bolt system are pretty forgiving in terms of setup. The width of the BB doesn't need to be super spot on to get them running smoothly. And getting the chainline precisely right often doesn't matter that much on modern bikes. If your chainring lines up ok with your chainguide, you're probably fine.
    Hero shit! Thanks man.

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