Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LastLast
Results 51 to 75 of 188
  1. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    10,428
    Quote Originally Posted by grabtindy View Post
    Rode my new (to me) alu Megatrail with a Ribbon coil on it this last weekend in St. George. There is not a thing I would change about it. The plushness off the top and traction are at levels I've never had on any bike.
    Not much to argue with there.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    10,428
    Pulling the trigger on that Megatrail frame. Plan is to go with the previously mentioned Ribbon Coil/DVO Topaz combo which should make switching between Megatrail and Shred Dogg modes a 1-beer job, basically getting two bikes in one. This will be my first ever full-custom build which I'm pretty excited about*. Going big on suspension so suggestions for good bang-for-buck parts for the rest are appreciated. I'm currently thinking:

    Wheels: Stans? Worth the weight penalty to get Flow vs Arch? What else? This is the biggest item after suspension and the one I'm least informed about.

    Drivetrain: E13 TRS 9-46 w/ XT shifter/RD/chain. Not too interested in XT cranks due to the 96 BCD spider, so maybe RF Turbine or Aeffect. AB oval ring.

    Brakes: TBD, but 4-piston for sure. New Hayes Dominions look pretty rad and I can get them pretty steeply discounted. Lots of good deals to be had on Saint/XT though and I already own a Shimano bleed kit. I can also get a deal on Hope stuff.

    Cockpit: RF Aeffect stuff, most likely


    * - and equally nervous. Odds I'll end up at the LBS hat-in-hand at some point are high.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Three-O-Three
    Posts
    13,887
    Hopefully you don't mean full Stan's wheels, hubs and all. That's one way to destroy a beautiful build, that's for sure. I'd recommend Flow rims, but only if you're planning on lacing them to some Hope hubs or something else that's not Stan's.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    8,406
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Pulling the trigger on that Megatrail frame. Plan is to go with the previously mentioned Ribbon Coil/DVO Topaz combo which should make switching between Megatrail and Shred Dogg modes a 1-beer job, basically getting two bikes in one. This will be my first ever full-custom build which I'm pretty excited about*. Going big on suspension so suggestions for good bang-for-buck parts for the rest are appreciated. I'm currently thinking:

    Wheels: Stans? Worth the weight penalty to get Flow vs Arch? What else? This is the biggest item after suspension and the one I'm least informed about.

    Drivetrain: E13 TRS 9-46 w/ XT shifter/RD/chain. Not too interested in XT cranks due to the 96 BCD spider, so maybe RF Turbine or Aeffect. AB oval ring.

    Brakes: TBD, but 4-piston for sure. New Hayes Dominions look pretty rad and I can get them pretty steeply discounted. Lots of good deals to be had on Saint/XT though and I already own a Shimano bleed kit. I can also get a deal on Hope stuff.

    Cockpit: RF Aeffect stuff, most likely


    * - and equally nervous. Odds I'll end up at the LBS hat-in-hand at some point are high.
    Sick. That's gonna be a rad bike.

    Don't get Arch rims. They won't last. Flows are nothing special but perfectly fine. The aluminum rim market, with a few exceptions, is kinda straightforward. Durability comes with weight or price. Get something that's give or take 30mm wide so it works well with tires that don't suck. Wider than that is just excess weight unless you're plus curious. Much narrower than that starts to not work as well with 2.5" tires. If you want something nice, the higher end DT Swiss rims are better than most other options. [insert video of Aaron Gwin finishing his race run on a bare rim that stays remarkably intact].

    The e13 drivetrain option is solid. If you can get one for cheaper, a GX eagle kit is also sweet.

    For brakes, SLX / XT's are hard to beat for the price. I think Guides RS/RSC's work significantly better, but someone is going to point out that Guides have issues, to which I'll point out that so do XT's, and then this thread will turn into MTBR. If you can find a deal on them, the current codes are the best brakes I've ever ridden.

    Get the longest dropper post that'll fit.

    Edit: and yeah, what smokkan said. Don't get Stan's hubs. Or Novatec hubs. Or formula hubs. Or any of the vast numbers of generic hubs that are just rebranded variations of novatec or formula hubs. If you have a Hope hook up, those are great.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Snowmass
    Posts
    352
    coloradocyclist.com does a nice affordable custom wheel build with Hopes and Flows. I used that for another bike and thought it was a good blend of value, weight and durability. My flows have held up to moderate bike park use just fine.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    8,224
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Pulling the trigger on that Megatrail frame. Plan is to go with the previously mentioned Ribbon Coil/DVO Topaz combo which should make switching between Megatrail and Shred Dogg modes a 1-beer job, basically getting two bikes in one. This will be my first ever full-custom build which I'm pretty excited about*. Going big on suspension so suggestions for good bang-for-buck parts for the rest are appreciated. I'm currently thinking:

    Wheels: Stans? Worth the weight penalty to get Flow vs Arch? What else? This is the biggest item after suspension and the one I'm least informed about.

    Drivetrain: E13 TRS 9-46 w/ XT shifter/RD/chain. Not too interested in XT cranks due to the 96 BCD spider, so maybe RF Turbine or Aeffect. AB oval ring.

    Brakes: TBD, but 4-piston for sure. New Hayes Dominions look pretty rad and I can get them pretty steeply discounted. Lots of good deals to be had on Saint/XT though and I already own a Shimano bleed kit. I can also get a deal on Hope stuff.

    Cockpit: RF Aeffect stuff, most likely


    * - and equally nervous. Odds I'll end up at the LBS hat-in-hand at some point are high.
    It is nice to have an adjustable fork as well. I think mine goes from 160mm to 180mm. Works well with the whole adjustable rear suspension. Definitely makes it a two in one bike.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    8,690
    Great choice. GG are making it hard to consider anything else.
    Theyíre a few quality hubs but Iíve never had a problem with hope so I always buy those . I guess Iíd consider dt Swiss hubs and their rims(I like traditional j bend spokes for ease of fixing). Current fave rims are spank. Tough and reAsonably priced
    Because itís a megatrail occasionally Iíd put 4 piston shimano brakes or maybe codes(both ez to find brake pad replacements and tons of power)
    Seats, bars, grips, tires are more personal preference
    I tend to cheap out on drivetrains as long as it has a low climbing gear and 10 or 11 more Iím good
    Get a couple pairs of cane creek eewings cranks, maybe 3 pairs then youíd have 165,170,175ís

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,922
    Stan's newer hubs are great. I switch between a ride wheelset (arch w neo hubs) and race wheelset (flow w neo ultimate hubs). Yeah I kill the arch rims occasionally. The neo hubs have zero issues. Both standard and ultimate. I keep them clean and lubed.

    Stans spoke choice on the other hand is a little too skinny for big dudes.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    10,428
    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    Hopefully you don't mean full Stan's wheels, hubs and all. That's one way to destroy a beautiful build, that's for sure. I'd recommend Flow rims, but only if you're planning on lacing them to some Hope hubs or something else that's not Stan's.
    Hah, shows what I know. I thought the Neo hubs were good hubs. Thinking DT Swiss then, whatever I can afford that's 1800ish grams. I suppose that also gives me the option to upgrade to their fancy high-engagement star ratchet I've seen posted about here.

    That said, what about Spank stuff?
    Quote Originally Posted by shredgnar View Post
    It is nice to have an adjustable fork as well. I think mine goes from 160mm to 180mm. Works well with the whole adjustable rear suspension. Definitely makes it a two in one bike.
    The Ribbon isn't externally adjustable a la TALAS, but the procedure is way easier than the internal adjustment on other forks. There's a pretty significant weight penalty compared to the air version, but it's comparable to a 36 or Lyrik. Seems worth it for the easy travel adjust.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,922
    Dt swiss are great but the neos are nearly as good. I've killed the dt swiss system but not lubing often enough. 350 vs neo comes down to price imo.

    The extra tooth ratchet isn't worth it btw. Engagement is fine as is.

    Why do I bother giving advise on bike stuff anyway? People just spend money on worthless upgrades regardless. The whole bike industry is poisoned with upgrade habits. It is fun for people I guess. I found a perfect balance years ago and rarely buy parts since my OEM parts are so good (sram and race face mostly). I stopped custom builds a while ago. Standards change too often.

    Anyway enjoy the GG. I've been to their place and they are good peeps with a great bike.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Three-O-Three
    Posts
    13,887
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Stan's newer hubs are great. The neo hubs have zero issues. Both standard and ultimate.
    I disagree 100%. I've had multiple clients destroy Stan's NEO hubs in the last 18 months, to the point that I won't use them anymore with my company. And I grew up with Stan's daughters. And I'm wearing a Stan's sweatshirt right now.

    In fact, the last time I warrantied a NEO hub (last October) they actually replaced it with a Hope hub for me, free of charge.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,922
    You've had clients destroy everything at this point right? I would kill your bikes also, it isn't mine so I would just smash it to pieces. Rental!

    What dies on a Neo? I had a hub shell crack on that bad batch a few years ago.

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    264
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Pulling the trigger on that Megatrail frame. Plan is to go with the previously mentioned Ribbon Coil/DVO Topaz combo which should make switching between Megatrail and Shred Dogg modes a 1-beer job, basically getting two bikes in one. This will be my first ever full-custom build which I'm pretty excited about*. Going big on suspension so suggestions for good bang-for-buck parts for the rest are appreciated. I'm currently thinking:

    Wheels: Stans? Worth the weight penalty to get Flow vs Arch? What else? This is the biggest item after suspension and the one I'm least informed about.

    Drivetrain: E13 TRS 9-46 w/ XT shifter/RD/chain. Not too interested in XT cranks due to the 96 BCD spider, so maybe RF Turbine or Aeffect. AB oval ring.

    Brakes: TBD, but 4-piston for sure. New Hayes Dominions look pretty rad and I can get them pretty steeply discounted. Lots of good deals to be had on Saint/XT though and I already own a Shimano bleed kit. I can also get a deal on Hope stuff.

    Cockpit: RF Aeffect stuff, most likely


    * - and equally nervous. Odds I'll end up at the LBS hat-in-hand at some point are high.

    Get the Dominions. They are truly amazing. Does Sam have the cool new JR Pro Taper bars?

    Have fun on the new bike.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Three-O-Three
    Posts
    13,887
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    You've had clients destroy everything at this point right? I would kill your bikes also, it isn't mine so I would just smash it to pieces. Rental!

    What dies on a Neo? I had a hub shell crack on that bad batch a few years ago.
    Surprisingly, my bikes have held up quite well. I've had 4-5 Stan's hubs break over the last two years, but other than that all the mechanicals have been fairly minor. With the hubs, it's been a combination of the shell breaking and a few other things. I guess I'm not saying they're horrible but if I was building up a custom bike, Stan's wheels are not what I'd go with.

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    464
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Pulling the trigger on that Megatrail frame. Plan is to go with the previously mentioned Ribbon Coil/DVO Topaz combo which should make switching between Megatrail and Shred Dogg modes a 1-beer job, basically getting two bikes in one. This will be my first ever full-custom build which I'm pretty excited about*. Going big on suspension so suggestions for good bang-for-buck parts for the rest are appreciated. I'm currently thinking:

    Wheels: Stans? Worth the weight penalty to get Flow vs Arch? What else? This is the biggest item after suspension and the one I'm least informed about.

    Drivetrain: E13 TRS 9-46 w/ XT shifter/RD/chain. Not too interested in XT cranks due to the 96 BCD spider, so maybe RF Turbine or Aeffect. AB oval ring.

    Brakes: TBD, but 4-piston for sure. New Hayes Dominions look pretty rad and I can get them pretty steeply discounted. Lots of good deals to be had on Saint/XT though and I already own a Shimano bleed kit. I can also get a deal on Hope stuff.

    Cockpit: RF Aeffect stuff, most likely


    * - and equally nervous. Odds I'll end up at the LBS hat-in-hand at some point are high.
    How come you're going with Topaz rather than the DPX2 Perf Elite? The DPX2 PE is a really nice shock, and the price GG will sell it to you with the frame ($445) is cheaper than the Topaz. For the fork, someone suggested getting a travel adjust model, but the MRP you're looking at can change the travel with internal spacers. If the process is as easy as it sounds, that's only like a half beer job.

    For wheels, you definitely want to get a custom built set with good hubs. OEM wheels usually have crap hubs. Typical rim recommendations are Flow MK3s, DT Swiss XM481s, or RF Arc 30s. Budget hubs that are still super reliable are Hopes (slightly cheaper, slightly heavier, slightly lower POE) or DT 350s (AK47 of hubs). If you can get a deal on Hope products, probably snag their hubs and have your shop build them up for you.

    Difference (besides price and weight) between the Turbine and Aeffect cranks if you didn't know is spindle diameter and the removal tool. Aeffect uses 24mm spindle and one of those damn crank puller tools. Turbine uses 30mm and an 8mm hex. Both use the same lockring tool to swap the actual ring. If there's a chance you'll upgrade to a fancy carbon crank in the future, go with the Turbine, so that you at least then still have the same BB. The only think I don't like about the higher end RF cranks like Turbine and Next is how easy it is to strip the screw on the NDS nylon preload ring. Or you could get SRAM DUB (lol) cranks - similar design and very ubiquitous parts.

    I'll make your brake choice harder and recommend Magura MT-5s or Trail Sports. You can get them super cheap from Ze Germans (bike-discount). Magura-USA's customer service is fantastic should anything go wrong, and they combine a lot of the pros of Shimano (mineral oil, stopping power) with those of SRAM (modulation). I broke the master cylinder where the lever attaches in a crash and they sent me a complete new brake within 3 days. Friends have had similar experience.

    Smmokan can hook you up with a discount code on a PNW dropper.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    In a van... down by the river
    Posts
    3,608
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    <snip> There's a pretty significant weight penalty compared to the air version
    It's not a penalty... it's Momentum Advantage!



    Srsly, though - that Ribbon coil is SOOOOOOO nice and smooth. Right off the top. And in the middle. And at the bottom.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    8,209
    Use your hookup and get some Hope brakes.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paper St. Soap Co.
    Posts
    2,275
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Sick. That's gonna be a rad bike.

    Don't get Arch rims. They won't last. Flows are nothing special but perfectly fine. The aluminum rim market, with a few exceptions, is kinda straightforward. Durability comes with weight or price. Get something that's give or take 30mm wide so it works well with tires that don't suck. Wider than that is just excess weight unless you're plus curious. Much narrower than that starts to not work as well with 2.5" tires. If you want something nice, the higher end DT Swiss rims are better than most other options. [insert video of Aaron Gwin finishing his race run on a bare rim that stays remarkably intact].

    The e13 drivetrain option is solid. If you can get one for cheaper, a GX eagle kit is also sweet.

    For brakes, SLX / XT's are hard to beat for the price. I think Guides RS/RSC's work significantly better, but someone is going to point out that Guides have issues, to which I'll point out that so do XT's, and then this thread will turn into MTBR. If you can find a deal on them, the current codes are the best brakes I've ever ridden.

    Get the longest dropper post that'll fit.

    Edit: and yeah, what smokkan said. Don't get Stan's hubs. Or Novatec hubs. Or formula hubs. Or any of the vast numbers of generic hubs that are just rebranded variations of novatec or formula hubs. If you have a Hope hook up, those are great.
    I was going to say most of that, but will add I was a XT drive train guy, but am happy with my GX eagle. Love my 4 piston XT brakes. The pads did rattle some the first few rides, which bugs some people.

    Carbon rims are nice, if you are getting nice hubs might as well add them in, get some with a good warranty(last I checked GG didn't have any good options). Or just get Flows for now and upgrade in awhile if you are trashing them.

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    10,428
    Quote Originally Posted by One (+) Sentence View Post
    Get the Dominions. They are truly amazing. Does Sam have the cool new JR Pro Taper bars?

    Have fun on the new bike.
    Pfft, what would you know? That's a hell of an endorsement. We got to fondle all the new Hayes Jr stuff at Tyson's last month. It's pretty sweet. Haven't actually got to take any home yet, though. Hilariously/tragically, they put tapered steerers on the 20" forks. Their tech didn't know if they had made any with straight steerers and it's been radio silence since he drove off with all the boxes. It would be a spectacular oversight if they didn't since I can't think of a single 20" bike that uses a tapered head tube.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    How come you're going with Topaz rather than the DPX2 Perf Elite? The DPX2 PE is a really nice shock, and the price GG will sell it to you with the frame ($445) is cheaper than the Topaz. For the fork, someone suggested getting a travel adjust model, but the MRP you're looking at can change the travel with internal spacers. If the process is as easy as it sounds, that's only like a half beer job.

    For wheels, you definitely want to get a custom built set with good hubs. OEM wheels usually have crap hubs. Typical rim recommendations are Flow MK3s, DT Swiss XM481s, or RF Arc 30s. Budget hubs that are still super reliable are Hopes (slightly cheaper, slightly heavier, slightly lower POE) or DT 350s (AK47 of hubs). If you can get a deal on Hope products, probably snag their hubs and have your shop build them up for you.

    Difference (besides price and weight) between the Turbine and Aeffect cranks if you didn't know is spindle diameter and the removal tool. Aeffect uses 24mm spindle and one of those damn crank puller tools. Turbine uses 30mm and an 8mm hex. Both use the same lockring tool to swap the actual ring. If there's a chance you'll upgrade to a fancy carbon crank in the future, go with the Turbine, so that you at least then still have the same BB. The only think I don't like about the higher end RF cranks like Turbine and Next is how easy it is to strip the screw on the NDS nylon preload ring. Or you could get SRAM DUB (lol) cranks - similar design and very ubiquitous parts.

    I'll make your brake choice harder and recommend Magura MT-5s or Trail Sports. You can get them super cheap from Ze Germans (bike-discount). Magura-USA's customer service is fantastic should anything go wrong, and they combine a lot of the pros of Shimano (mineral oil, stopping power) with those of SRAM (modulation). I broke the master cylinder where the lever attaches in a crash and they sent me a complete new brake within 3 days. Friends have had similar experience.

    Smmokan can hook you up with a discount code on a PNW dropper.
    Topaz for two reasons: 1) You're going to notice a theme here, I can get a deal on it. About $300. 2) You can change the stroke length from 57.5 mm to 65 mm (and basically anywhere in between) simply by adding/removing nylon spacers. That makes it super easy to go from Shred Dogg to Megatrail and back again.

    Noted on wheels. Talking with my buddy last night he can get Spank Spike 350 Vibrocore rims on Oozy hubs for under $400. Hand-built per Spank's website and the Oozy hubs sounds pretty nice (30 POE, cartridge bearings, triple butted spokes). About 2,000g, but sound bomber as hell and appear to be well reviewed.

    Thanks for the education on RF cranks. I'll also look into the Maguras, looks like I can get a deal on those as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Use your hookup and get some Hope brakes.
    Looks like we've achieved maximum anti-consensus on brake choice.

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    15,661
    I have a new takeoff set of SRAM Guide RS, with centerline 6-bolt rotors (180/180), if you're interested. I prefer Shimano so I pulled these off a large Diamondback Release 5C.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    464
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Topaz for two reasons: 1) You're going to notice a theme here, I can get a deal on it. About $300. 2) You can change the stroke length from 57.5 mm to 65 mm (and basically anywhere in between) simply by adding/removing nylon spacers. That makes it super easy to go from Shred Dogg to Megatrail and back again.
    That is a damn good reason.

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    8,690
    Ya I like that. I hear good things about the topaz as well. Diamond or an onyx would be good match for a similar reason

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    361
    GG makes decent bikes and they're a solid group of guys and a solid company. I came here to say stay the fuck away from e13, though. Do a survey of mechanics and see what they think... I'd be happy to provide countless horror stories and back them up with photos of e13 parts torn down so you can see just how poor the quality is. Don't waste your money when there are far better options out there.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Land of Brine Shrimp and Magic Underwear
    Posts
    5,881
    IDK about e13 drivetrain components but GX is a solid performer, more range, and a pretty damn affordable. Can stick with a raceface crank if you want or go SRAM. Both are pretty easy to deal with.

    Sounds like you're leaning toward a ribbon coil, that'll be a solid choice. I wouldn't recommend the air version, the negative spring is really inconsistent for some reason. Reports are that it doesn't feel quite as stout as a 36 too.

    Brakes... I agree with Toast that the new Codes are the best out there. That's what I run. Best of both the power and modulation worlds. SOOOOO consistent on long descents due to the huge reservoir, among other things I guess. That said, all the shimano four pistons seem pretty solid. Saints are stronger than the Codes, XTs prolly are too. No modulation but you can get used to the on/off feel. I'm sure Zee's are a good option too. Not sure if the new Deore four pistons are available yet but they're on the GF's new bike and they seem good. Prolly be the cheapest of the lot. The lack of free stroke adjustment bothers me about shimano brakes though. I know it's there on the higher end ones. Doesn't work.

    I've got a pair of last gen XO Trail four piston brakes with like 20 miles on them in the bin. They're chrome silver, $100 without rotors if you're interested. These are really nice brakes. More powerful and reliable than Guides and all the bells and whistles.

    Congrats on the new bike choice!
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow... flying through the air.

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    4,780
    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post
    . They're chrome silver, $100 without rotors if you're interested. These are really nice brakes. More powerful and reliable than Guides and all the bells and whistles.
    Interested.

    Pics?
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    the situation strikes me as WAY too much drama at this point

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •