Epic Ski level edge tuning question re rocker

[stuckathuntermtn]

Go my Q labs a light base and stone grind. (Ps, they are still terrifyingly fast, but they pivot better, and even kinda slash!)
Anyway, my prefered bevel is .5 base and 2 side. But they are my only rockered skis, (I no) so I'm not sure if that's a good thing.
They were almost a bit hooky and on the downhill side of icy moguls, they'd try to hook up, but the rocker/taper would keep them from doing it, making for a kinda uncomfortable bounce.

So of course, after the fresh grind, I hit a bunch of rocks today. I tried using the gummy stone on the whole length of the ski, and more gummy on the tip and tails and rocker, of course.
Did I just over sharpen them and the bevel is fine with some detuning, or reset the base bevel?

I guess I'll ski them again soon and will probably answer my own question, but I'm wondering if anyone has done this exact thing, more or less, and can give me a point in the right direction.

Probably over thinking this, but I can't poop without a smartphone now.

[ZomblibulaX]

Personally, i find a 0.5* too hooky in anything that's not a race course. YMMV.

You're not going to reset a bevel with a gummi stone unless you're really fucking up for quite a while. Easy enough to dull an edge wtih one though. Gummis are for polishing and light detuning, get a pocket stone or the like for knocking burrs down.

My limited experience with q labs led me to detune the taper in the tip pretty heavily, while mostly leaving the tails alone. So still sharp between the contact points, but pretty round above the snowline. You might feel differently, but I liked being able to get the low-profile tips up and over stuff without the edge engaging immediately, because god damn that ski has too much sidecut for what it is.

[2FUNKY]

.5 base bevel is for groomer Zoomerz. Reset that to 1. Heavily detune to contact points then adjust from there on the hill with a gummy.
I run all but groomer skis at 1/2.

[jetski]

.5 base bevel is for groomer Zoomerz. Reset that to 1. Heavily detune to contact points then adjust from there on the hill with a gummy.
I run all but groomer skis at 1/2.

This guy knows whats up...

[gwat]

.5 base bevel is for groomer Zoomerz. Reset that to 1. Heavily detune to contact points then adjust from there on the hill with a gummy.
I run all but groomer skis at 1/2.

^yep

[stuckathuntermtn]

I detuned with gummy. Will ski again, and if still weird will reset the bevel. I assume I can go from .5 to 1 without ending up base high if I don't overdo it?

[stuckathuntermtn]

Part of the problem might just be how dangerously sharp they are. Might need more gummy underfoot.

[2FUNKY]

The problem has been addressed yet you choose to ignore it and look at other things.

[TAFKALVS]

you should change your handle to "stuckinoneturnshape" with .5° bevel on your pow skis.

[stuckathuntermtn]

The problem has been addressed yet you choose to ignore it and look at other things.

Sorry. The edges are really thin so I try not to take a lot of metal off.
I could redo the base bevel later and hope for the best re flatness.
Do I have to redo the side?
I guess there's still a lot about edge tuning I don't know.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

.5 base bevel is for groomer Zoomerz. Reset that to 1. Heavily detune to contact points then adjust from there on the hill with a gummy.
I run all but groomer skis at 1/2.

This is still the answer.

[waxoff]

Sorry. The edges are really thin so I try not to take a lot of metal off.
I could redo the base bevel later and hope for the best re flatness.
Do I have to redo the side?
I guess there's still a lot about edge tuning I don't know.

Did you ever set/check the base bevel after the grind you mentioned in post 1? If not, just do it, then follow as instructed above. From your description it sounds almost like zero base.

Personally i liked not just a detune but a total transformation of the tails, described in the long forgotten q lab thread.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Oh no, I set an actual bevel.
Guess I'll get started on doing the 1d base now. And again, do I habe to do the side again?

[waxoff]

No, just base.

[charles martel]

Go my Q labs a light base and stone grind. (Ps, they are still terrifyingly fast, but they pivot better, and even kinda slash!)
Anyway, my prefered bevel is .5 base and 2 side. But they are my only rockered skis, (I no) so I'm not sure if that's a good thing.
They were almost a bit hooky and on the downhill side of icy moguls, they'd try to hook up, but the rocker/taper would keep them from doing it, making for a kinda uncomfortable bounce.

So of course, after the fresh grind, I hit a bunch of rocks today. I tried using the gummy stone on the whole length of the ski, and more gummy on the tip and tails and rocker, of course.
Did I just over sharpen them and the bevel is fine with some detuning, or reset the base bevel?

I guess I'll ski them again soon and will probably answer my own question, but I'm wondering if anyone has done this exact thing, more or less, and can give me a point in the right direction.

Probably over thinking this, but I can't poop without a smartphone now.

.5 base and 1 to 3 side are fine. If the skis are tuned flat, which quite often they are not because of a lack of training of shop techs. The best machines are not automatic. I have had "the best WS" tune and ended up with skis that were unskiable. I had some Stockli Rotors ground and they would not go straight.

That said, I think wide rockered skis can, not slways, but can handle differently because the front contact point of both base and sidecut can be multiple points in the process on both initiating and unerightong from a turm.

Particularly when you unweight, the front contact point still maintains contact further back where the rocker begins. That may not matter in really soft snow/powder where you are surfing the base with the skis mostly flat to the terrain.

But, on hardpack/ice with the ski tipped on its side, when you think you've unweighted, the edge contact where the rocker begins could still be engaged.

I'm just throwing this out there for discussion. I'm not sure I have the right answer.

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[Conundrum]

Good tools for detuning tips and tails-diamond stone, bastard file, or rock on the side of a run.

I guess a gumi would work if you want to be at it for awhile. Unless you're skiing firm on skinny skis, take a bastard and roll it over the edge in your desired place by the contact a few times and your problems will go away.

Another thing on edge bevel...I would make a sizable wager that many people couldn't tell the difference between .5 and 1* base unless the ski was grabbing so 1* makes more sense. Unless the person knows why they want to ski .5* (groomer zoomerz) and can feel the difference, the snow is the firm, or they're chasing sticks, just go 1*. Plus, people skiing .5* probably either know where to detune their skis to or pay a tech that knows.

Maybe I'm just an asshole which is an acceptable answer too.

[charles martel]

...Maybe I'm just an asshole which is an acceptable answer too.

No, you are not.



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[stuckathuntermtn]

The 1 was way better. So was the snow. Detuned only with gummy. Mostly fore and aft of ski but also down the length a little. Good times. Thank you all.

[charles martel]

The 1 was way better. So was the snow. Detuned only with gummy. Mostly fore and aft of ski but also down the length a little. Good times. Thank you all.

/\/\/\

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[2FUNKY]

The 1 was way better. So was the snow. Detuned only with gummy. Mostly fore and aft of ski but also down the length a little. Good times. Thank you all.

Awesome.

[Bushwacka]

yeah if it feel hooky on ice, its typically a burr, not the bevels. Even .5 and 2 should feel ok on ice bumps.

[RootSkier]

angle grinder or gtfo

[3PinGrin]

i feel it would be a disservice to not mention using
the metal corral while standing in the lift line as a
good method to detune the tips and tails on new skis.

Well, there's lots of ways to go about it.

Street hockey, fending of zombies wearing hardhats, high impact shaving of your future son in law, the list goes on and on....

[stuckathuntermtn]

yeah if it feel hooky on ice, its typically a burr, not the bevels. Even .5 and 2 should feel ok on ice bumps.

Normally I would agree, but but we're talking a fresh tune here.

[Alpinord]

Normally I would agree, but but we're talking a fresh tune here.

Fresh tunes are where burrs typically originate. Look at the Hanging Burr topic in our tuning tips. Rule that out first.

Are your edges smooth, sharp or burr, sharp?

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