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  1. #1
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    How do you store your skins? (glue nightmare)

    Every season it's the same story. I pull my skins out of storage and the glue is a total mess. It is over sticky, transfers to my ski base and ruins the descent.

    I store my skins in my SF basement which is pretty cool and dry year round. I've tried with skin savers, without savers, etc.

    I've been able to salvage ruined glue passably by ironing paper grocery bags onto the skins to take up the extra glue. Also helps keeping my skis super waxed.

    But I'm tired of having to deal with a gluey mess each year, and I don't want to buy new skins each season.

    How do you store your skins? What's the proper way to do it? Any tips to share?

  2. #2
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    tech talk
    bF
    Alpental Indigenous

  3. #3
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    right duh

  4. #4
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    are they cold when you rip them apart for the first time of the year? I think that matters.
    I've had better luck without skin savers.

    iron + parchment paper + 2 beers.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo Chop! View Post
    are they cold when you rip them apart for the first time of the year? I think that matters.
    I've had better luck without skin savers.

    iron + parchment paper + 2 beers.
    x2 on this exact procedure except bourbons.
    But Ellen kicks ass - if she had a beard it would be much more haggard. -Jer

  6. #6
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    Jan 2008
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    I did not get out on my skins at all last season, all of mine have turned to a sticky mess too. Rolled up and glue to glue. I think I'm going to store them on a hanger with cheat sheets from now on. And the first pull of the season will be with them below freezing.
    As for fixing my lazy storage and lack of maintenance, I'm am planning on a parchment paper plus iron on 2 sets, (Atomic and G3), and a full hot scraper and re-glue pads of one pair of G3s. The re-glue set is from a know era of a bad glue batch from G3.
    a few beers for the parchment paper and iron technique, and a tonne of beer for the heat gun + scraper + a shit tone of news papers to wipe the glue off of the scraper. You can never have too much newspaper for this job.

  7. #7
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    IME nail or screw the skins down to a piece of wood is key to making them much easier to handle also you can put the skins out side to off gas and cool

    transfer sheets are 45$ or a tube of gold label is 15$, so you can save yourself a lot of $ by using a tube of gold label per each pair of skins instead of the transfer sheets

    All mine seem ok just storing glue to glue
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    1,108
    I do everything wrong when it comes to storing and using skins. I store them over summer glue to glue in a warm place. I use them lots in warm spring conditions where the glue gets contaminated by forest gunk, goo and needles. I use em for summer skiing on hot days. I drive around with 'em in the car that's baking hot; etc.... Just gotta accept the fact that the glue will get jacked.

    I have developed a coping mechanism that works acceptably well to deal with the fallout.

    Every fall before the first kinda 'winterish' turns in october, I give em a maintenance session and 'touch up'.

    Lay 'em flat on a work bench protected by cardboard, glue side up, C-clamp tips and tails, skins under very slight tension. Spot heat lightly/carefully with hot air gun and scrape and/or pick off the needles and larger forest debris with needle nose pliers/scraping implement. 2nd step is thoroughly, slowing, carefully heat and pass from tip to tail with hot air gun and lightly smear the remaining glue with a metal spatula. This seems to melt and mix any remaining good and bad glue together and refreshes it and, at least temporarily, arrests the glue migration to ski base issue.

    I used to use the iron/parchment paper system for refreshes but found that hot air gun/spatula system, with trained hands, is more efficient, less mess, more precise and more fun.

    If you need new glue, add some gold label to thin spots, let the shit cure and giv'er another blast with the hot air gun to melt it into the refreshed basal layer. Another tip to add some thickness to essential glue closer to the edges is to squeegee the center strip glue over to where it's useful. Glue in the center of skins serves no practical function, so it's a good reservoir for harvesting for future use. If yer skins have a center strip protector, peel it off with pliers while doing the tip to tail heat gun procedure.

    I ski in a warm coastal snowpack so usually have to give my skin glue another hot air gun blast/spatula smear halfway through the season...and then just live with whatever happens from then on 'cause come march/april, the glue starts collecting a lot of forest gunk/goo and needles and I just wait till the following fall to deal with that mess.
    Last edited by swissiphic; 01-14-2019 at 10:03 AM.
    What if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?

  9. #9
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    Does reheating existing glue help with the problem of old glue transferring to ski base? Does reheating freshen it up somehow?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Does reheating existing glue help with the problem of old glue transferring to ski base? Does reheating freshen it up somehow?
    IME, yup.
    What if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Does reheating existing glue help with the problem of old glue transferring to ski base? Does reheating freshen it up somehow?
    Yes. If you pick off the dirty clumps of glue and pine needles/hair etc. and reheat them thoroughly, they are usually good for another season or so. I use the OEM contact paper from Black Diamond skins rather than parchment, leaves a shiny new surface when done properly.

  12. #12
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    Thanks. My oldest pair of skins started leaving glue residue on the bases this season. Sounds like reheating might help with this.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    off on yet another Tangent
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    Curious and wondering about possible reasons beside old glue. For those getting glue stuck on bases, are you using hard wax and brushing after scraping?

    I haven't had glue residue issues. I've been using cheat sheets on my BD skins for years and leave them hanging in the garage. After each use they are hung to dry before going back in the bag.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Does reheating existing glue help with the problem of old glue transferring to ski base? Does reheating freshen it up somehow?
    YMMV, it costs nothing so its worth a try and It might work for at least for awhile but IME I got glue transfer again the next season

    so once glue transfer starts I just take off the the old glue and redo it completely cuz a tube is only 15$, I always have a couple tubes kicking around cuz it lasts for years unopened


    i don't find a problem with glue during storage, my theory is that water & glue left in a warm place will hydrolise, so its bad when you see water turning white on your glue

    " A chemical process whereby a compound is cleaved into two or more simpler compounds with the uptake of the H and OH parts of a water molecule on either side of the chemical bond cleaved; hydrolysis is effected by the action of acids, alkalies, or enzymes. Compare: hydration. [hydro- + G. lysis, dissolution] "

    when they say to dry your skins, short of getting moldey the plush don't care its really the glue you want to dry

    but hanging skins over a hot stove in a hut has probably ruined a couple of glue jobs
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #15
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    Glue to glue, folded, in the freezer.

  16. #16
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    Glue to glue in the garage. No problems. I think putting skins away wet causes more issues than storing hot.

    You could also buy Pomoca. The few pairs I've had have had far less glue issues than my G3's and BD's.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by I've seen black diamonds! View Post
    Glue to glue in the garage. No problems. I think putting skins away wet causes more issues than storing hot.
    Yes, definitely always want to dry them out before storage.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by I've seen black diamonds! View Post
    I think putting skins away wet causes more issues than storing hot.
    same. I store mine glue to glue in my hot-as-fuck SLC garage and they're fine; but I unfold them and dry them inside after every use.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by I've seen black diamonds! View Post
    Glue to glue in the garage. No problems. I think putting skins away wet causes more issues than storing hot.

    You could also buy Pomoca. The few pairs I've had have had far less glue issues than my G3's and BD's.
    I've had to reglue my Dynafit branded Pomoca's as well, I also think its the putting skins away wet that fucks up glue,

    I was pretty good at hanging skins to dry then I figured even if you religiously dry your skins most people dry them stuck together

    SO there could still be water sitting on the glue in the folds in a warm place which is not good ?

    so now when I come home I peel them apart to expose the glue and leave them hanging with the glue exposed on a bar stool until I am sure both sides of the skin are dry
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #20
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    I start mine drying on the car ride home, which is usually 1-1.5 hrs. They're usually mostly dry by the time I'm in the garage.

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