Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,429

    Headset questions

    Hey all,

    I'm wondering if it is possible to replace the top tapered cap on an fsa 57b headset with something with less stack. Anybody know? Here is the piece I'm trying to replace. Do I need a new headset or just a new, lower profile top cap?

    Seth

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screenshot_20181230-123938.jpeg 
Views:	60 
Size:	42.7 KB 
ID:	262135

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Saratoga Springs, NY
    Posts
    1,629

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,429
    I haven't sourced the top cap yet - I haven't been able to find pictures yet to show that the top cap Radam mentioned above is the correct one. Curiously, though, with everything installed, my steerer is about 1/2" below the top cap on my stem. The top edge of the steerer is below the top tightening bolt. If I run it as is, am I gonna die? Bad idea?

    Seth

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20190325_185441.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	1.24 MB 
ID:	275954

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,169
    You definitely want that top bolt to be below the top of the steerer tube. I think you can get away with center of the bolt being level with the steerer tube top, but I'd let other chime in on that to be certain.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,884
    Thats on the edge of comfortable, or I should say past the edge. You will gain some of that once you compress it with a top cap, but not enough to get into the safe zone.
    Spend some time on the FSA page and find a not so tall "top cover".
    Last edited by Dee Hubbs; 03-26-2019 at 10:17 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Eugenio Oregón
    Posts
    8,400

    Headset questions

    Well, just what exactly do you expect your stem to attach to? There is no tube onto which it can apply uniform compressive stress at the clamping bolt. The engineers didn’t test it like that, only clamping 3/4 of its surface area onto the steer tube instead of 100%.

    Seems like a setup that will work ... until it doesn’t ...

    FWIW when I cut steer tubes I always keep 1 or 2 spacers of height, just so the top cap is compressing the spacer and the stem has 100% surface area.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,884
    This is what it should look like before you use the top cap for headset compression:
    Name:  Screen Shot 2019-03-26 at 10.01.42 AM.png
Views: 137
Size:  517.7 KB

    This is what it should look like after compression:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 2019-03-26 at 10.01.30 AM.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	329.2 KB 
ID:	275964

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,971
    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    Curiously, though, with everything installed, my steerer is about 1/2" below the top cap on my stem. The top edge of the steerer is below the top tightening bolt. If I run it as is, am I gonna die? Bad idea?

    Seth

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20190325_185441.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	1.24 MB 
ID:	275954
    FUCK. THAT. NOISE.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,429
    If only you guys would tell me how you really felt! :-)

    I'll pull the top cap and see what it looks like compressed and if the bolt isn't below the top edge, we'll look at a plan B. Thanks for the input!

    Seth

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •