popping out of tech bindings

[AntonS]

I have been skiing resort (and occasionally BC) on Speed Turn 2.0 bindings and TLT7 boots for 3 seasons. I have a problem pretty consistently popping out the heels laterally if there are any lateral forces at all, such as any skidding or chatter. This has been really helpful in developing a good technique, but I finally decided to see if anything can be done.

I can quite easily push the heel laterally out with one hand and no leverage, just holding the ski. No wonder it pops out when I step on it. I am light, 5'9"/150. The bindings have been set to DIN 6. The heel gap is close to spec'ed 5mm, as far as I can tell. I cranked up DIN to 7, will see if it helps.

It so happened, that I played at home with alpine bindings. It seems like the alpine boot is essentially bolted in compared to Dynafit (release using bare hands? positively no way!). Seems like I am missing something somewhere.

If it matters, skinning up I often fall out of the locked toes too. I guess this can be written off to snow accumulation.

[NWFlow]

If only occasionally BC recommend getting an appropriate Alpine setup

Otherwise, close the heel Gap a smidge beyond recommended

[AntonS]

On getting an alpine setup: I really like the how light the current setup is. Tried a bunch of alpine boots and skis not sure if it is worth it. Would like to try a hybrid boot (flat sole), so any ski can be used. Still, this leaves the binding unintended release issue. Thanks for answer, I was wondering about the gap too.

[grinch]

That’d be a terrible setup for the hill. Both the boots and speed turns . Nice and light for touring and efficient but not for the hill. 3 years bashing those speed turns on the hill is like 10-12 in the bc. Are you aware there is 2 release adjustments on the heel. One small flathead screw for vertical release and the big one for lateral? Isn’t the gap supposed to be 3mm?

[AntonS]

Well, such was the progression, first BC then more of the frontside (again). A full new alpine setup is expensive, takes time to select and, being heavy, I don't like it all that much.

Yes, both DIN adjustments are set to the same value. The spec for gap I believe is 5.5mm (3 stacked nickels).

The heel towers of the ST binding actually have pretty significant rotational play. Essentially this means that the heel can move laterally relative to ski. This is not good for precise ski control, huh.

***

I could consider a more substantial tech binding, I guess. Which one?

[1000-oaks]

Except for the Knee brand, alpine bindings do not release laterally at the heel (only fhe toe), and are literally locked-in in that direction. The lateral slop in yout Dynafit heel at low settings is simply a side effect of the design. Getting new heel spring thimbles and increasing the horizontal release setting will help, but they'll never be like an alpine heel.

If you want to make a huge improvement but stay in tech bindings, get Vipec ("Black" generation) or Tecton.

[rod9301]

Except for the Knee brand, alpine bindings do not release laterally at the heel (only fhe toe), and are literally locked-in in that direction. The lateral slop in yout Dynafit heel at low settings is simply a side effect of the design. Getting new heel spring thimbles and increasing the horizontal release setting will help, but they'll never be like an alpine heel.

If you want to make a huge improvement but stay in tech bindings, get Vipec ("Black" generation) or Tecton.

Or the mtn

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[SB]

A great way to break(in) your touring gear is to ski it at the resort on icey bumps all the time.

Have you looked at your pin sockets on the boots lately?

[t-the-east]

Din 6? Crank those things down.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

Thimble bushings and/or crank up release value.

https://skimo.co/dynafit-binding-par...hoC_W8QAvD_BwE

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[stuckathuntermtn]

This is the JONGiest shit since chasing brooklyn.

[XXX-er]

I am 160 and I set dynafits at 7 lateral/8 vertical so at your weight you could go up 1

I always set the vertical release (small screw) 1 higher or I get pre-release

for skiing down make sure snow is clear of the toe piece by cycling the pins a few times to get snow out from under the springs of the toe piece, also clear the pin holes by stepping in and moving your ski back and forth on the snow a few times before stomping the heels in, this allows the slots on the pins (you can't see them from above) to auger any snow out of the pin holes, you MUST do these 2 rituals every time you wana ski down or the ski will fall off

coming out when the toes are locked isnt right, don't know what to say about that

[DolphinSki]

The only time I've had serious issues releasing from Speed Turn 2.0s was when I had a slightly crooked toe mount. Might be something to check for. Otherwise, what everyone else said- check your toes for ice, turn the DIN up a bit, stop skiing a lightweight touring setup inbounds all the time.

[mall walker]

stop skiing a lightweight touring setup inbounds all the time.

qft

[XXX-er]

The only time I've had serious issues releasing from Speed Turn 2.0s was when I had a slightly crooked toe mount. Might be something to check for. .

how did you check for that ^^ were the pins way off from dropping cleanly into the rear tech fitting ?

[DolphinSki]

how did you check for that ^^ were the pins way off from dropping cleanly into the rear tech fitting ?

Yeah, I was having trouble and got it on the bench and realized it wasn't lining up right. It was close enough that when I slammed my heel down it would lock in, but real obvious once on the bench. It was my own fault too...switched from Plum Guides and figured since there was only a 2 hole difference I could just eyeball it...ended up using a sollyfit plate to fix it although sometimes if it is real close you can just loosen up the toe screws and force the heel of the boot the opposite direction while tightening the screws.

[Sessiøn]

I get no greater pleasure than watching people beater out of tech bindings on low angle groomers because they hit a pile of snow.

[XXX-er]

Yeah, I was having trouble and got it on the bench and realized it wasn't lining up right. It was close enough that when I slammed my heel down it would lock in, but real obvious once on the bench. It was my own fault too...switched from Plum Guides and figured since there was only a 2 hole difference I could just eyeball it...ended up using a sollyfit plate to fix it although sometimes if it is real close you can just loosen up the toe screws and force the heel of the boot the opposite direction while tightening the screws.

I mount AT bindings heel first at dead center

drill and snug up the toe piece by one screw only

latch the boot heel or binding frame into ski mode and drill another hole

the boot or rail always drop perfectly into heel fitting or rail latch