Worth it to upgrade to a commuter with discs?

**Dantheman** · 12-14-2018, 10:30 AM

On a flat bar commuter-type road bike (i.e., Kona Dew, Specialized Sirrus, etc.) how much do discs reduce your stopping distance over v-brakes in a panic-braking situation?

Every close call I've had since I started bike commuting two years ago has been due to failure-to-yield. I figure that the next time some moron makes a left turn right in front of me being able to stop even a foot or two shorter could be the difference between riding home and getting an ambulance ride to the hospital (or worse). Seems like discs should get you at least that much, but I've never used them on a road bike. Ditching the POS Tourney 3x7 drivetrain w/ 14-28 threaded freewheel cassette my current bike has would also be an nice bonus, but not worth the cost of upgrading on its own.

**toast2266** · 12-14-2018, 11:09 AM

Do you have any trouble locking up both wheels with your current brakes?

I suspect the only benefit discs will bring is a nicer lever feel and more consistent braking in the wet.

If you really want to cut down on your stopping distance, mount bigger tires.

**Dantheman** · 12-14-2018, 11:51 AM

I can lock the rear, can't say I've ever locked up the front. Being able to lock the front wheel on pavement at speed sounds a bit terrifying to be honest. Running 32c tires currently.

**El Chupacabra** · 12-14-2018, 11:55 AM

With Nashbar / Performance in bankruptcy, could be a good time to get a deal on an upgraded commuter for cheap, and sell off the old one.

My commuter is a 700c Schwinn hybrid, rigid fork, disc brake, came with 3x8 Altus (cassette at least, not freewheel). IIRC was around $250 from a Nashbar sale.

**carlh** · 12-14-2018, 12:20 PM

hydro disks are worth it, mechanicals are not. Here in the wet I won't ride anything without them anymore, much more predictable and consistent. The low end shimano mountain hydros are a solid option with cheap pads.

**evdog** · 12-14-2018, 12:50 PM

You might be able to upgrade just the front fork of your existing bike to one that has disc tabs. Maybe not as nice as a new bike but also less expensive. This is what I did to my commuter. Rear v-brake locks up fine, and the front is powerful enough.

**Dantheman** · 12-14-2018, 01:09 PM

Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

With Nashbar / Performance in bankruptcy, could be a good time to get a deal on an upgraded commuter for cheap, and sell off the old one.

My commuter is a 700c Schwinn hybrid, rigid fork, disc brake, came with 3x8 Altus (cassette at least, not freewheel). IIRC was around $250 from a Nashbar sale.

Yeah, when the PB bankruptcy thread popped up my first thought was that I'd be able to score something there. But, the deals aren't all that great at the moment. I'd probably be lucky to get $100 for my current bike.

edit: There are PB/Nash deals to be had if you want a step-through frame

Originally Posted by carlh

hydro disks are worth it, mechanicals are not. Here in the wet I won't ride anything without them anymore, much more predictable and consistent. The low end shimano mountain hydros are a solid option with cheap pads.

That's kinda what I figured. I have a set of SLX brakes in the parts bin, as well as some 10sp MTB drivetrain parts, so I've considered buying a low-end model and upgrading it with my spare stuff. But, the premium to get hydros and a decent drivetrain right from the start generally isn't much unless something like the deal El Chup got comes up.

**Dantheman** · 12-14-2018, 01:17 PM

Originally Posted by evdog

You might be able to upgrade just the front fork of your existing bike to one that has disc tabs. Maybe not as nice as a new bike but also less expensive. This is what I did to my commuter. Rear v-brake locks up fine, and the front is powerful enough.

My current bike actually does have IS disc tabs front and rear. Non-disc hubs though and the shifters are integrated into the brake levers, so still no small amount of stuff to buy and work to do to make it work and still be stuck with the POS drivetrain.

**plugboots** · 12-14-2018, 01:47 PM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

My current bike actually does have ISO disc tabs front and rear. Non-disc hubs though and the shifters are integrated into the brake levers, so still no small amount of stuff to buy and work to do to make it work and still be stuck with the POS drivetrain.

Well it might be worth it if you want a better bike out of this in the end, and you want to do it in stages. Do the wheel/brake upgrade now, and buy some used shifters, then eventually get a better frame and the rest. Bit IMHO, it is absolutely not worth it for a perceived difference in braking power.

**El Chupacabra** · 12-14-2018, 02:15 PM

I have cheap cable Tektro discs on the commuter. It came with full length cable housing, which I like. Nowhere near as good as good hydraulic brakes, but totally acceptable for a commuter IMHO.

**D(C)** · 12-14-2018, 03:01 PM

I recently went from v-brakes to hydraulic discs on my commuter. I can’t say I had much issue with stopping power before. My main reason for changing was to avoid cables getting messed up in gross weather (I cycle-commute all winter).

**bodywhomper** · 12-14-2018, 04:03 PM

New proper wet weather pads can also improve braking quality of rim brakes.

**D(C)** · 12-14-2018, 04:23 PM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

My current bike actually does have IS disc tabs front and rear. Non-disc hubs though and the shifters are integrated into the brake levers, so still no small amount of stuff to buy and work to do to make it work and still be stuck with the POS drivetrain.

It sounds like you're basically upgrading the whole bike. I think you'd likely do better by just starting out with a new bike that has the parts you want.

I recently got one of these on sale - well-priced, nice steel frame, fine drivetrain, hydro discs: https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/201...rban-muirwoods

**Dantheman** · 12-14-2018, 04:40 PM

Originally Posted by D(C)

It sounds like you're basically upgrading the whole bike. I think you'd likely do better by just starting out with a new bike that has the parts you want.

That's pretty much my train of thought. I do have the aforementioned SLX brakeset and 10sp drivetrain in the parts bin, so all I really need is wheels and IS-post adapters. But, briefly checking prices on disc road wheelsets today it still doesn't seem worth it. Looking hard at this: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...rod159758?mx=a

Even with shipping it looks like a pretty good deal. Size chart recommends 5-4 to 5-8 for the 50 cm size and I'm 5-6. But, the consensus here seems to be that the discs really aren't a meaningful safety upgrade. Thus, the fiscally prudent thing to do is probably just be patient and keep checking local classifieds daily. Maybe see if any of the LBS's here have anything they're looking to dump after Christmas.

**XXX-er** · 12-15-2018, 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

I'd probably be lucky to get $100 for my current bike.

So you gotta upgrade the wheels/shifters/ to run hydro Discs it sounds to me like you would be trying to make Chicken Salad out of chicken poo, fall/winter is a good time to upgrade to a better bike and sell the old one in the spring

IME cable discs worked pretty good, I ran BB7's on a mtn bike for 2 years they were trouble free, the modulation was not as good as Hydro discs but there was a lot of stopping power

also cable discs are very low maintenance, you just change the pads and they never need bleeding

**Tye 1on** · 12-15-2018, 04:37 PM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

That's pretty much my train of thought. I do have the aforementioned SLX brakeset and 10sp drivetrain in the parts bin, so all I really need is wheels and IS-post adapters. But, briefly checking prices on disc road wheelsets today it still doesn't seem worth it. Looking hard at this: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...rod159758?mx=a

Even with shipping it looks like a pretty good deal. Size chart recommends 5-4 to 5-8 for the 50 cm size and I'm 5-6. But, the consensus here seems to be that the discs really aren't a meaningful safety upgrade. Thus, the fiscally prudent thing to do is probably just be patient and keep checking local classifieds daily. Maybe see if any of the LBS's here have anything they're looking to dump after Christmas.

hundred bucks more but a lot more bike. I just assembled a bike from this company, three hours only cuz i'm a dumbfuck and did most of it twice...
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...brake-bike.htm

**ill-advised strategy** · 12-15-2018, 04:50 PM

Imho the big difference is in the rain or slush

**Dantheman** · 12-19-2018, 05:28 PM

Hmmm
https://www.trisports.com/product/sh...iABEgIh8_D_BwE

Thoughts? Not light, but durable is good for this application. Centerlock hubs so I'll need rotors, but those are cheap.

**bodywhomper** · 12-19-2018, 07:16 PM

$160 = cheap wheels for a commuter bike? Are they hand laced or machine?

**DolphinSki** · 12-20-2018, 09:29 AM

I'll echo Tye 1on and say check out BikesDirect for a commuter. Might be cheaper than the upgrades. They receive a lot of hate, but I rode one of their ~$400 cross bikes as a commuter for 7 years before I ended up in the same situation as you and decided the fixes/upgrades weren't worth it. Sold it for $75 and replaced it with a pawn shop bike with discs, I think they're worth it in the rain/snow.

**johnnyg82** · 12-20-2018, 09:53 AM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

Hmmm
https://www.trisports.com/product/sh...iABEgIh8_D_BwE

Thoughts? Not light, but durable is good for this application. Centerlock hubs so I'll need rotors, but those are cheap.

I just got these for my commuter this year, and they sealed up well tubeless: https://blueskycycling.com/collectio...-29er-wheelset

**Dantheman** · 12-20-2018, 01:18 PM

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

$160 = cheap wheels for a commuter bike? Are they hand laced or machine?

Got to be machine built at that price.

Originally Posted by johnnyg82

I just got these for my commuter this year, and they sealed up well tubeless: https://blueskycycling.com/collectio...-29er-wheelset

Quite the discount there. 15mm front hub, though.

**plugboots** · 12-20-2018, 02:16 PM

dan, those cheap wheels were cheaper at Western Bike something.com when I quickly looked them up. Don't forget width of the ID of the rim, BTW. Wider is better when using 32 tires,

**Dantheman** · 12-20-2018, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by plugboots

Don't forget width of the ID of the rim, BTW. Wider is better when using 32 tires,

Now that I think about it, I should probably be looking at 29er wheelsets, seeing as how they're the same goddamn thing. I'm dumb.

**El Chupacabra** · 12-20-2018, 03:05 PM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

Got to be machine built at that price.

Quite the discount there. 15mm front hub, though.

Do you need a QR front wheel? I have a single 29er takeoff wheel, six bolt disc, traditional cup and cone hub. Cheap.

You could just do a disc front, V brake rear. If you use cable disc, you can keep the existing front brake lever that you said is integrated with the shifter. Simple and easy.