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  1. #1
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    Never repaired skis before. Can I wax over this or does it need ptex?

    Trying to figure out if I should fix this myself or bring it to a shop. It doesn't seem to go into wood but does go all the way into the base. Ended in a pretty rough injury so I am trying to get it fixed while I am out of commission. I assume I just need to ptex pretty much half of the ski? Brand new wildcats with 2 days on them. Also I use skins a lot, will they rip out any repairs I make?

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  2. #2
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    IMHO that's one of the tougher gouges to repair and make look pretty and smooth again, with home hand tools. You could base weld the whole long gouge and flatten it on your own, then have a shop do a stone grind to bring it back to smooth the easiest.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  3. #3
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    Ptex at minimum. Keep the water outta there.

    Pro would slice the edges clean and do a proper weld.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Definitely need to PTEX that.

    It's quite simple to do yourself:

    1) You'll need to sand the inside of gouge so that it is smoother. I use 80 grit sandpaper and go until large bumps are gone and the gouge is fairly uniform.

    2) PTEX does not bond to core material very well. It's recommended to fill the gouge halfway with epoxy of some sort (people will recommend JB Weld but any good two part epoxy will do).

    3) Once epoxy is cured sand again with 80 grit.

    4) PTEX over top of the epoxy.

    5) Sand and flatten repair into base.

    6) Wax

    7) Ski

  5. #5
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    Buy some tools and do it yourself. Razor or dremel to smooth the edges, ptex, sure form to smooth it, wax, ski. If you need to repeat later, repeat. Paying shops to do minor work is pricey, but some are okay with that.

    That doesn't look like core to me, only wax. But maybe it's deeper than it looks. If it's to the core of the ski, what Pass Rat said.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3PinGrin View Post
    Buy some tools and do it yourself. Razor or dremel to smooth the edges, ptex, sure form to smooth it, wax, ski. If you need to repeat later, repeat. Paying shops to do minor work is pricey, but some are okay with that.

    That doesn't look like core to me, only wax. But maybe it's deeper than it looks. If it's to the core of the ski, what Pass Rat said.
    Yeah like an small core shot seems pretty easy but from what people are saying above it is sounding far more difficult. I just fucking got these ugh.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by toastybroski View Post
    Yeah like an small core shot seems pretty easy but from what people are saying above it is sounding far more difficult. I just fucking got these ugh.
    That just looks like someone tried to fill a shallow groove with wax. If so, easy fix. Get tools and learn to do your own, it's easy peasy.

  8. #8
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    Your skis are trashed. Send them to me for proper disposal.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pass Rat View Post
    Definitely need to PTEX that.

    It's quite simple to do yourself:

    1) You'll need to sand the inside of gouge so that it is smoother. I use 80 grit sandpaper and go until large bumps are gone and the gouge is fairly uniform.

    2) PTEX does not bond to core material very well. It's recommended to fill the gouge halfway with epoxy of some sort (people will recommend JB Weld but any good two part epoxy will do).

    3) Once epoxy is cured sand again with 80 grit.

    4) PTEX over top of the epoxy.

    5) Sand and flatten repair into base.

    6) Wax

    7) Ski
    Any benefits of using base weld over epoxy? epoxy seems way easier.

  10. #10
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    Base weld does not mean JB Weld - not interchangeable terms.

    The gouge is easy to repair on your own, I just think that sort (long deep gouge) is difficult to blend in smoothly.

    It definitely should be filled since that's base showing through.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Base weld does not mean JB Weld - not interchangeable terms.

    The gouge is easy to repair on your own, I just think that sort (long deep gouge) is difficult to blend in smoothly.

    It definitely should be filled since that's base showing through.
    Yeah I mean that base weld shit you use with a soldering iron and then ptex over.

  12. #12
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    Base weld is better because it bonds with the core... and then behaves like base material (waxable)... unlike epoxy.

    The best repair will be comprised of base weld only, but will have to be flattened or ground flush with the base. You could melt some weld rod into the scratch to bond, ptex over it, scrape flush... but the ptex will erode in time.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by toastybroski View Post
    Yeah like an small core shot seems pretty easy but from what people are saying above it is sounding far more difficult. I just fucking got these ugh.
    You may get lucky. Sometimes they take the Ptex perfectly first go. IME, the top photo with the shallow brushed gouges will be harder to fill and keep filled than the deep, narrow ones in the lower photo. I'd follow the advice above, but strongly consider a shop stone grind to "wipe clean" the shallow dings.

  14. #14
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    Well, if it's truly to the core, that certainly ups the complexity, but still doable. If you diy, invest in some metal grip for an underlayment: https://www.tognar.com/metalgrip-repair-string-5/

    I haven't had a shop work on my skis in a very long time. BUT, if that's a core shot, given your new to this, a shop might be the right choice here. It's still a good idea to learn how to do your own minor base repairs/edge work though.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by hafjell View Post
    You may get lucky. Sometimes they take the Ptex perfectly first go. IME, the top photo with the shallow brushed gouges will be harder to fill and keep filled than the deep, narrow ones in the lower photo. I'd follow the advice above, but strongly consider a shop stone grind to "wipe clean" the shallow dings.
    So ptex the areas where core isnt showing as well? Sorry for all the questions.

  16. #16
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    Its really hard to see if that is to core all the way down the scratch, it doesn't really look like it ?

    If not I'd be tempted to just pt-ex that with pure ptex and a soldering iron especialy if you don't own any good epoxy, if it pulls out, then you need some epoxy for sure

    if you got some good epoxy dab some in the places where it hit the core with a toothpick so the pt-tex has something to grip

    I am not off the rock skis yet and I don't fix those kinds of damage ... still low tide out there

    edit: it looks like ptex would stick to the sides of the scratch, or just wax often
    Last edited by XXX-er; 12-11-2018 at 11:18 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by toastybroski View Post
    So ptex the areas where core isnt showing as well? Sorry for all the questions.
    Ask away. That's what the tech forum is for.
    IME, those narrow stretches that aren't to the core could take ptex very well. When I was tuning full time, those sections would give me the least concern before starting the job. Given the low dollar and time cost to ptex, there's very little that could go wrong. If it pulls, it pulls.
    Certainly, as others have noted, you want to avoid long term water exposure/penetration. But a quick attempt with ptex could shore up a lot of problems.
    The core shots will want a more committed response. I only have shop experience with shop tools (Wintersteiger base pistol to the rescue) with gashes that deep. Others are much better resources for home repairs. But it seems pretty straightforward to epoxy the core shot, then fill with polyethylene, as they've noted.
    This might feel daunting. The second or third time you do this, it will feel very simple. Obviously make sure the ski is dry before starting.
    Last edited by hafjell; 12-11-2018 at 11:37 AM. Reason: grammur

  18. #18
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    Is the white/clear wax or the core?

    If it's the core, you'll need to weld in 'metal grip' as a primer before welding base repair material. Be sure to get the repair area nearly as hot as the welding material for a better bond.

    From our Tuning Tips:

    (You can use the tip of an RP105 as a soldering iron.)



    Lengthwise. long gouges will take lots of patience and they still may not hold entirely. Repairing multiple times may be necessary.

    If this is more superficial, or you need a temporary 'quick fix', you might try a super hard green wax to fill in the scratches and shallow gouges. Before doing so, be sure any loose material or high points are removed and flattened. Light Hot Scrape while applying the wax to make cold scraping easier and quicker. Then don't brush the green wax out of the depressions, entirely.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Is the white/clear wax or the core?


    If this is more superficial, or you need a temporary 'quick fix', you might try a super hard green wax to fill in the scratches and shallow gouges. Before doing so, be sure any loose material or high points are removed and flattened. Light Hot Scrape while applying the wax to make cold scraping easier and quicker. Then don't brush the green wax out of the depressions, entirely.
    I'll assume that's harder than the Briko red wax, and then add this anecdote. I put the red wax over a reasonably deep, long gouge (not a core shot) last year. After 20 days, I still had red wax at the deeper parts of the gouge. Time to reorder actually. Got too many yellows. Going all red this time, but maybe one green?!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    I'll assume that's harder than the Briko red wax, and then add this anecdote. I put the red wax over a reasonably deep, long gouge (not a core shot) last year. After 20 days, I still had red wax at the deeper parts of the gouge. Time to reorder actually. Got too many yellows. Going all red this time, but maybe one green?!
    Much harder than both the Briko-Maplus BP1 Red & Universal Red. Blue is another option if you have it. The Purl All-Temp Purple is comparable to the Briko Reds and Purples.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  21. #21
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    hey hey...if you want ot ghetto a pair of skis that have may seem to be expired, reach for the JB Weld....fill it to the top, sand the frkn thing smooth wax the skis go out and do what, you gotta do, it'll still be there at the end of the day... I don't recommend this for skis you care about but just to get an old pair back in the line-up quickly

  22. #22
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    I suggest getting a practice ski from a thrift shop and trying all your tools and techniques on the practice ski first. That way you're not bungling around trying to learn on your nice pair.

    This is one occasion where you should disregard my username. That there's real advice broseph.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by flowing alpy View Post
    without edge damage that’s just cosmetic
    scrape fill smooth wax ski repeat easy pz
    This.

    Don't ski new skis early season if hitting rocks is an issue.

    Create a strong rapport with a skilled shop rat involving alcohol or weed in trade for more complicated fixes. A fifth of tequila or whiskey gets a lot of damage fixed.

  24. #24
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    Nov 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by toastybroski View Post
    Any benefits of using base weld over epoxy? epoxy seems way easier.

    Epoxy doesn't take wax or look as good as ptex.

  25. #25
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    and yet, it protects the core and gives a ski character.

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