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12-11-2018, 08:33 AM #1Registered User
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Never repaired skis before. Can I wax over this or does it need ptex?
Trying to figure out if I should fix this myself or bring it to a shop. It doesn't seem to go into wood but does go all the way into the base. Ended in a pretty rough injury so I am trying to get it fixed while I am out of commission. I assume I just need to ptex pretty much half of the ski? Brand new wildcats with 2 days on them. Also I use skins a lot, will they rip out any repairs I make?
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12-11-2018, 08:39 AM #2
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12-11-2018, 08:40 AM #3
Ptex at minimum. Keep the water outta there.
Pro would slice the edges clean and do a proper weld.
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12-11-2018, 08:44 AM #4Registered User
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Definitely need to PTEX that.
It's quite simple to do yourself:
1) You'll need to sand the inside of gouge so that it is smoother. I use 80 grit sandpaper and go until large bumps are gone and the gouge is fairly uniform.
2) PTEX does not bond to core material very well. It's recommended to fill the gouge halfway with epoxy of some sort (people will recommend JB Weld but any good two part epoxy will do).
3) Once epoxy is cured sand again with 80 grit.
4) PTEX over top of the epoxy.
5) Sand and flatten repair into base.
6) Wax
7) Ski
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12-11-2018, 08:46 AM #5
Buy some tools and do it yourself. Razor or dremel to smooth the edges, ptex, sure form to smooth it, wax, ski. If you need to repeat later, repeat. Paying shops to do minor work is pricey, but some are okay with that.
That doesn't look like core to me, only wax. But maybe it's deeper than it looks. If it's to the core of the ski, what Pass Rat said.
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12-11-2018, 08:49 AM #6Registered User
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12-11-2018, 08:51 AM #7
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12-11-2018, 08:51 AM #8
Your skis are trashed. Send them to me for proper disposal.
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12-11-2018, 08:58 AM #9Registered User
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12-11-2018, 09:01 AM #10
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12-11-2018, 09:05 AM #11Registered User
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12-11-2018, 09:10 AM #12
Base weld is better because it bonds with the core... and then behaves like base material (waxable)... unlike epoxy.
The best repair will be comprised of base weld only, but will have to be flattened or ground flush with the base. You could melt some weld rod into the scratch to bond, ptex over it, scrape flush... but the ptex will erode in time.
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12-11-2018, 09:11 AM #13
You may get lucky. Sometimes they take the Ptex perfectly first go. IME, the top photo with the shallow brushed gouges will be harder to fill and keep filled than the deep, narrow ones in the lower photo. I'd follow the advice above, but strongly consider a shop stone grind to "wipe clean" the shallow dings.
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12-11-2018, 09:28 AM #14
Well, if it's truly to the core, that certainly ups the complexity, but still doable. If you diy, invest in some metal grip for an underlayment: https://www.tognar.com/metalgrip-repair-string-5/
I haven't had a shop work on my skis in a very long time. BUT, if that's a core shot, given your new to this, a shop might be the right choice here. It's still a good idea to learn how to do your own minor base repairs/edge work though.
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12-11-2018, 09:28 AM #15Registered User
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12-11-2018, 10:49 AM #16Registered User
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Its really hard to see if that is to core all the way down the scratch, it doesn't really look like it ?
If not I'd be tempted to just pt-ex that with pure ptex and a soldering iron especialy if you don't own any good epoxy, if it pulls out, then you need some epoxy for sure
if you got some good epoxy dab some in the places where it hit the core with a toothpick so the pt-tex has something to grip
I am not off the rock skis yet and I don't fix those kinds of damage ... still low tide out there
edit: it looks like ptex would stick to the sides of the scratch, or just wax oftenLast edited by XXX-er; 12-11-2018 at 11:18 AM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-11-2018, 11:36 AM #17
Ask away. That's what the tech forum is for.
IME, those narrow stretches that aren't to the core could take ptex very well. When I was tuning full time, those sections would give me the least concern before starting the job. Given the low dollar and time cost to ptex, there's very little that could go wrong. If it pulls, it pulls.
Certainly, as others have noted, you want to avoid long term water exposure/penetration. But a quick attempt with ptex could shore up a lot of problems.
The core shots will want a more committed response. I only have shop experience with shop tools (Wintersteiger base pistol to the rescue) with gashes that deep. Others are much better resources for home repairs. But it seems pretty straightforward to epoxy the core shot, then fill with polyethylene, as they've noted.
This might feel daunting. The second or third time you do this, it will feel very simple. Obviously make sure the ski is dry before starting.Last edited by hafjell; 12-11-2018 at 11:37 AM. Reason: grammur
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12-11-2018, 11:55 AM #18
Is the white/clear wax or the core?
If it's the core, you'll need to weld in 'metal grip' as a primer before welding base repair material. Be sure to get the repair area nearly as hot as the welding material for a better bond.
From our Tuning Tips:
(You can use the tip of an RP105 as a soldering iron.)
Lengthwise. long gouges will take lots of patience and they still may not hold entirely. Repairing multiple times may be necessary.
If this is more superficial, or you need a temporary 'quick fix', you might try a super hard green wax to fill in the scratches and shallow gouges. Before doing so, be sure any loose material or high points are removed and flattened. Light Hot Scrape while applying the wax to make cold scraping easier and quicker. Then don't brush the green wax out of the depressions, entirely.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
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12-11-2018, 12:03 PM #19
I'll assume that's harder than the Briko red wax, and then add this anecdote. I put the red wax over a reasonably deep, long gouge (not a core shot) last year. After 20 days, I still had red wax at the deeper parts of the gouge. Time to reorder actually. Got too many yellows. Going all red this time, but maybe one green?!
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12-11-2018, 12:08 PM #20
Much harder than both the Briko-Maplus BP1 Red & Universal Red. Blue is another option if you have it. The Purl All-Temp Purple is comparable to the Briko Reds and Purples.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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12-11-2018, 05:26 PM #21
hey hey...if you want ot ghetto a pair of skis that have may seem to be expired, reach for the JB Weld....fill it to the top, sand the frkn thing smooth wax the skis go out and do what, you gotta do, it'll still be there at the end of the day... I don't recommend this for skis you care about but just to get an old pair back in the line-up quickly
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12-11-2018, 06:55 PM #22
I suggest getting a practice ski from a thrift shop and trying all your tools and techniques on the practice ski first. That way you're not bungling around trying to learn on your nice pair.
This is one occasion where you should disregard my username. That there's real advice broseph.
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12-11-2018, 08:00 PM #23
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12-11-2018, 11:14 PM #24Registered User
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12-12-2018, 04:59 AM #25
and yet, it protects the core and gives a ski character.
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