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  1. #1
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    Cants under tech bindings?

    Has anyone here done this? I am a bit bowlegged in my touring boots (1 to 1.5 degrees out), Scarpa F1's. I use Cantology cants on my alpine boots which help a lot. This won't fly on the touring boots. I'm thinking of putting cants under my Tectons. I have experience putting cants under alpine bindings, but I wanted to check here to see if anyone has done that with Tech bindings.

  2. #2
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    A touring boot is no different to an alpine boot. I've got 2 degree shims in my Mercury boots and they work perfectly on the up and the down - in exactly the same way as they do in my alpine boots. I actually need 3 degrees but there's already a degree built in to the boot (or maybe I need 2.5 degrees and there's 0.5 in the boot already, I can't remember).

    I did these a couple of weeks ago. Usual recommendation is no more than a few degrees however this guy had a severe leg growth condition as a kid (he's now in his 60's) meaning that when he stands with his feet together the gap between his knees is approx 25cm and he's only just over 5' tall. This is the second such set-up I've done for him and he regulary does week long hut-to-hut high alpine tours. These shims were machined from delrin but IIRC Tognar sells shims up to a few degrees but I'm not sure if they're wide enough for some of the latest/wider binding bases, particularly at the toe.



    If you go the binding shim route then 1-1.5 degrees is easy and you won't even have to worry about differential screw lengths or even angular drilling whilst remaining centred on the ski etc.
    Last edited by Spyderjon; 12-02-2018 at 02:34 PM.

  3. #3
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    I have 1.5 deg shims under my tectons and they work fine. Not as good a solution as cantology with alpine boots, but it works for the touring setup.
    Last edited by cbgarrett; 12-02-2018 at 07:17 PM.

  4. #4
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    No problem, i have 3.5 on one and. 5 on the other.
    Need longer screws

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    A touring boot is no different to an alpine boot. I've got 2 degree shims in my Mercury boots and they work perfectly on the up and the down - in exactly the same way as they do in my alpine boots. I actually need 3 degrees but there's already a degree built in to the boot (or maybe I need 2.5 degrees and there's 0.5 in the boot already, I can't remember).
    How did you shim your Mercury since those don't have a removable sole? I'd like to try canting my Salomon MTN labs but those don't have a removable sole or cuff adjustment.

  6. #6
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    I triple dog dare someone to try to shim Zeds tilted..
    Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the info. I have a good boot fitter who will measure (laser) to see how much cant I need. I think it's in the 1 -1.5 range. Tognar does have cants which I can cut to fit. I'll go to longer screws if needed.

  8. #8
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by spchin24 View Post
    How did you shim your Mercury since those don't have a removable sole? I'd like to try canting my Salomon MTN labs but those don't have a removable sole or cuff adjustment.
    I'm guessing shim balance system - uses shims to change the angle of the bootboard. Like canting inside the boot.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by spchin24 View Post
    How did you shim your Mercury since those don't have a removable sole? I'd like to try canting my Salomon MTN labs but those don't have a removable sole or cuff adjustment.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post
    I'm guessing shim balance system - uses shims to change the angle of the bootboard. Like canting inside the boot.
    Yep, that's it. I use in-boot canting shims which sit on top of the bootboard/zeppa and upon which the liner then sits. They're available from Foot Foundation in Colorado.

  10. #10
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    Feb 2005
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    In boot shims address the foot. Under binding and under boot shims address more proximal biomechanics.
    Apples to oranges.

  11. #11
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    Nice tidy work Spyderjon

    I've did a similar thing for a bud's wife a few years ago, came out fine, has held up fine.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post
    I'm guessing shim balance system - uses shims to change the angle of the bootboard. Like canting inside the boot.
    It doesn't work, canting needs to be done on the outside.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod9301 View Post
    It doesn't work, canting needs to be done on the outside.
    That's a pretty bold statement. I'm no biomechanics/podiatrist but it works for me and many other people I know. And flexing with and without the shims on the Neutralizer Balancer measuring gizmo has proved to me that it works.



    I've also had alpine boot soles ground and the results for me have been the same.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Choucas View Post
    Has anyone here done this? I am a bit bowlegged in my touring boots (1 to 1.5 degrees out), Scarpa F1's. I use Cantology cants on my alpine boots which help a lot. This won't fly on the touring boots. I'm thinking of putting cants under my Tectons. I have experience putting cants under alpine bindings, but I wanted to check here to see if anyone has done that with Tech bindings.
    Tognar cant strip under a Kreuzspitze binding. There is a Kreuzpitze plate between the binding and the shim, for ramp angle reduction / bsl adjustment.

    I used new screws from Tognar, sized to take account of the different thickness of the shim on each side.

    I don't need canting under my left foot, so I bought some HDPE sheet online and made a matching black shim to fit under the binding on my left foot.


    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnfarmer View Post
    In boot shims address the foot. Under binding and under boot shims address more proximal biomechanics.
    Apples to oranges.
    exactly, manipulating the foot in the shell is not the same as grinding the sole or altering the boot from the base. Two completely different adjustments with entirely different results.

  16. #16
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    Bit of a thread hijack but Im pretty badly knock kneed, almost like impossible for me to get my uphill ski on the same edge as downhill. Always on my inside edge and really have to fight my mechanics to run flat.

    Im nervous to get my boots planed or cants under my bindings because Ive skied this way forever.

    Am I making a stupid mistake by not doing this?


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    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Bit of a thread hijack but I’m pretty badly knock knee’d, almost like impossible for me to get my uphill ski on the same edge as downhill. Always on my inside edge and really have to fight my mechanics to run flat.

    Im nervous to get my boots planed or cants under my bindings because Ive skied this way forever.

    Am I making a stupid mistake by not doing this?

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Where do you live and ski? The best way to try this out is to either play with strapping tape strips between your afd/heel piece and your boot sole.
    i believe 5 pieces of strapping tape is 1 degree.
    90% of the time you would put the tape on the inside, to try and give you more edge.

    There are people who respond differently and you can not change the angle. You would then need to accommodate the gap that exists between your ski and your boot, thus putting the tape on the outside.

    If you have a good boot fitter around you, they can work with you.

    Cantology is a great resource.

  18. #18
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    Live in Park City. Ample boot fitter options. Trying w tape first is an excellent suggestion.


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    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Bit of a thread hijack but Im pretty badly knock kneed, almost like impossible for me to get my uphill ski on the same edge as downhill. Always on my inside edge and really have to fight my mechanics to run flat.

    Im nervous to get my boots planed or cants under my bindings because Ive skied this way forever.

    Am I making a stupid mistake by not doing this?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yeah, you will notice a big, positive, difference when you cant them

    Sent from my moto g(6) using TGR Forums mobile app

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Live in Park City. Ample boot fitter options. Trying w tape first is an excellent suggestion.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Try Matt Schiller or Steve Owen up at Surefoot. Steve has 29 years of fitting experience. He has seen it all.

  21. #21
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    Every time I see the title I read it as Cats under tech bindings?
    Seems cruel but you should post a TR if you do it.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    That's a pretty bold statement. I'm no biomechanics/podiatrist but it works for me and many other people I know. And flexing with and without the shims on the Neutralizer Balancer measuring gizmo has proved to me that it works.



    I've also had alpine boot soles ground and the results for me have been the same.
    This is completely wrong, any canting needs to be done on the outside of the boot shell or under the binding. All your doing is screwing up how your foot and leg sits inside the shell.
    "He thinks the carpet pissers did this?"

  23. #23
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    Tag for later


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  24. #24
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    Canting the inside of the boot board has a different effect vs the boot sole / binding right? Or..?


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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    Canting the inside of the boot board has a different effect vs the boot sole / binding right? Or..?


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    Theoretically yes, because you then set the shell up differently against the foot. Modifications to the outside retain the position of the foot inside the boot.

    However, the "aboslutely wrong to do it this way" is overdone. Multiple long time pro fitters at Masterfit suggested there are times when modifying foot angles inside a boot are appropriate depending on a persons anatomocial oddities.

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