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  1. #301
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Breckenridge
    Posts
    726
    Atk mono link toe design has been used for 3 to 4 years already in their race bindings. (Maybe even longer)
    Most ATK designs are very proven and tested. Even when it is a new model such as crest it is truly just a Trofeo toe, which is the same design as the race toe with less metal removed to make it cheaper and heavier which has been in use for years, plus the RT heelpiece which is even older with a new brake and adjustment plate

  2. #302
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bottom feeding
    Posts
    10,812
    ATK seems to make mostly sensible subtle upgrades every year with the old models still available. Rock solid, no clicking or slop as well.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  3. #303
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    ID
    Posts
    902
    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    I love my MTN's aside from the crampon clip business, but looking at ATK stuff has me very impressed. Build quality looks tremendous, and 5-10 RV in a package under 300 grams blows my mind. Full metal toe lever also, unlike MTN. It's a good time to be alive and touring.
    I really like the heel riser flaps that cover the heel pins so you can tour and transition without turning the towers. I think the MTN has that as well. Kind of a necessity for me now.
    Last edited by hafjell; 10-16-2019 at 08:29 AM.

  4. #304
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    There I go ... pondering violating my operating principle of not being a paying beta tester.

    [edit] If this fellow (link, below) is right, the single position riser is a touch higher than many medium risers, at 64mm above the ski. I think I could live with that, but the unknown at the moment is the toe pin height above the ski (in order to do an apples to apples comparison of the delta).
    Center of pins seem to sit ~4.75cm above the ski.

    Riser height off the ski seems ~.75cm higher than the low riser on the MTN. Definitely closer to the low rise than the high rise.
    Toe pins are about 1-2mm higher.

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,218
    MTN on Lotus 138. Can't wait to get out there and given a go.


  6. #306
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    4,637
    Nice, you will like turn 3

    Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk

  7. #307
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    4,637
    I meant. You will like them

    Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk

  8. #308
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    494
    I bet the first 2 turns are good too. FYI you can go without that plastic plate under the heel, as long as the skis are thick enough.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #309
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,987
    I dropped the plastic plate too, gets me closer to that magic ramp/delta sweet spot.
    I felt a little forward last spring.
    I might experimentally add a couple mm under the toe as well.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Gravity always wins...

  10. #310
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    2,276
    for those of you with MTN/Backland binders - when mounted on the line, how much fore/aft adjustment is there respectively? The total is 30mm yes, but is it like the Shifts where the majority of the adjustment range is aft?

    I am thinking about replacing Tectons on a pair skis with MTNs to save weight, and there is a bit of an overlap issue in the rear. As such I would need to mount the rear binding approx one cm further back and adjust the heel forward, or about two centimeters forward and adjust the heel back. I am just curious which is the better option with the MTN/backland.

    The same issue was resolve by going forward with Shifts, so that might be the required medicine here as well.

    Thanks in advance for any and all help.

  11. #311
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by kid-kapow View Post
    for those of you with MTN/Backland binders - when mounted on the line, how much fore/aft adjustment is there respectively? The total is 30mm yes, but is it like the Shifts where the majority of the adjustment range is aft?

    I am thinking about replacing Tectons on a pair skis with MTNs to save weight, and there is a bit of an overlap issue in the rear. As such I would need to mount the rear binding approx one cm further back and adjust the heel forward, or about two centimeters forward and adjust the heel back. I am just curious which is the better option with the MTN/backland.

    The same issue was resolve by going forward with Shifts, so that might be the required medicine here as well.

    Thanks in advance for any and all help.
    It's in the middle so equal fore/aft. I did the same to avoid a conflict, mounted the heel 5mm forward and adjusted it back. I'll try and get a photo later if it helps

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    Last edited by oetk2; 10-18-2019 at 08:38 PM. Reason: pic added

  12. #312
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,987
    I recently remounted mtns into tecton pattern.
    I reused the front two holes and did hardwood dowels with epoxy, and predrilled pretty nearby for the rear holes. Gflex epoxy for all holes.
    Ymmv!

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Gravity always wins...

  13. #313
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    2,276
    thank you both - that was very helpful - TGR delivers yet again

    It sounds like mounting back and adjusting forward is the way to go then. Will test mount on a piece of wood first, then start drilling into the v werks fekkers

  14. #314
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    tahoe de chingao
    Posts
    848
    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    I recently remounted mtns into tecton pattern.
    I reused the front two holes and did hardwood dowels with epoxy, and predrilled pretty nearby for the rear holes. Gflex epoxy for all holes.
    Ymmv!

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Slight threadjack - what made you go from tecton to mtn on those skis? Or did you buy them w holes

  15. #315
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,987
    I got frustrated with the Tectons a bit; I had a series of troubles going from tour mode to skiing, mostly from snow/ice packing into the fairly complicated heel. I had issues with the ski crampons also. For closer to 50/50 use they'd be fine, but I didn't trust them or want to haul them on longer tours. The tectons were my only tour setup for a bit last year, which coincided with a string of bigger project style tours, so they felt pretty heavy by the end. After a few outings this fall I remembered and went simple. Mtns definitely don't ski as powerfully, but kill it for simple and reliable. So far.
    Resort kit is all CAST, touring kit is all mtn; I took out the middle ground. Simplifies decisions at the truck in the morning too.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Gravity always wins...

  16. #316
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by caulfield View Post
    I bet the first 2 turns are good too. FYI you can go without that plastic plate under the heel, as long as the skis are thick enough.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Cool. Thanks for the heads up. I removed the plates. I already wasn't loving the ramp angle of those boots, so that'll help a bit.

  17. #317
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,218

    The 300g Touring Binding Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    I got frustrated with the Tectons a bit; I had a series of troubles going from tour mode to skiing, mostly from snow/ice packing into the fairly complicated heel. I had issues with the ski crampons also. For closer to 50/50 use they'd be fine, but I didn't trust them or want to haul them on longer tours. The tectons were my only tour setup for a bit last year, which coincided with a string of bigger project style tours, so they felt pretty heavy by the end. After a few outings this fall I remembered and went simple. Mtns definitely don't ski as powerfully, but kill it for simple and reliable. So far.
    Resort kit is all CAST, touring kit is all mtn; I took out the middle ground. Simplifies decisions at the truck in the morning too.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Have you used crampons with the MTNs yet? What's the deal with them? Someone mentioned them recently and I got the sense that they were inconvenient in some way.

  18. #318
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,987
    Yup, I brought it up a ways back.
    They use regular dynafit style crampons, but salomon supplies a little plastic clip that you pop on the center of the axle to hold it, instead of the clip being built into the binding base. Definitely a hassle. But I prefer the dynafit crampons in general, so It's working out ok, I'm just trying to get more clips from Salomon, because I will drop them eventually.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Gravity always wins...

  19. #319
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    277
    without looking at mine, i assume you can't remove the plate with the brakes version

    pic added above

  20. #320
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    without looking at mine, i assume you can't remove the plate with the brakes version

    pic added above
    Yeah, the plate is part of the brake assembly, it looks like, right?

  21. #321
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    494
    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    without looking at mine, i assume you can't remove the plate with the brakes version
    Well you can, but the brakes go with it. It's the same heel on top of either plastic option. Leash time!

    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    Yup, I brought it up a ways back.
    They use regular dynafit style crampons, but salomon supplies a little plastic clip that you pop on the center of the axle to hold it, instead of the clip being built into the binding base. Definitely a hassle. But I prefer the dynafit crampons in general, so It's working out ok, I'm just trying to get more clips from Salomon, because I will drop them eventually.
    I use ATK crampons and have never bothered with the keeper clip. Maybe I should worry more about lateral play, but so far they've stayed centered.

    Consider tying them to your crampons, as shown in the reviews here: https://skimo.co/salomon-mtn-binding

  22. #322
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,033
    Can anybody tell me what the difference between the Crest and the new RT 10 is? I have both older RT 2.0 (fixed heel, 5mm ramp delta) and Freeraider 12s (elastic heel, with toe adjustment plate for less ramp delta - probably at 6mm-ish now).

    Both the Crest and the RT 10 seems to both have an elastic heel, and are lighter than the RT 2.0. Does anybody know what the ramp delta is for these bindings? Moving the brake back to the heel and the inclusion of elasticity in the heel might make them more similar to the Freeraider than the RTs?

  23. #323
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,080
    Quote Originally Posted by caulfield View Post

    I use ATK crampons and have never bothered with the keeper clip. Maybe I should worry more about lateral play, but so far they've stayed centered.

    Consider tying them to your crampons, as shown in the reviews here: https://skimo.co/salomon-mtn-binding

    I use the Plum crampons and I've never used the clip. I don't even know if I could find mine.

  24. #324
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,987
    Quote Originally Posted by caulfield View Post
    Well you can, but the brakes go with it. It's the same heel on top of either plastic option. Leash time!



    I use ATK crampons and have never bothered with the keeper clip. Maybe I should worry more about lateral play, but so far they've stayed centered.

    Consider tying them to your crampons, as shown in the reviews here: https://skimo.co/salomon-mtn-binding
    I have them tied on for sure, that cord is taking a beating and will need to be replaced a few times a year.....

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    Gravity always wins...

  25. #325
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Breckenridge
    Posts
    726
    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Can anybody tell me what the difference between the Crest and the new RT 10 is? I have both older RT 2.0 (fixed heel, 5mm ramp delta) and Freeraider 12s (elastic heel, with toe adjustment plate for less ramp delta - probably at 6mm-ish now).

    Both the Crest and the RT 10 seems to both have an elastic heel, and are lighter than the RT 2.0. Does anybody know what the ramp delta is for these bindings? Moving the brake back to the heel and the inclusion of elasticity in the heel might make them more similar to the Freeraider than the RTs?
    They are very similar. The RT has three differences

    Magnetic heel flappers and uhv on toe, and toe has more material removed to make it lighter

    U.H.V.® System (Up-hill Hardness Variator): system that allows to change the up-hill locking hardness of the toe part. It compensates the boot toe insert wear and tear during the years, provides a proper locking strenght for each user and reduces the pressures on the locking mechanism.

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