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  1. #526
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    1,341
    im sure it's been covered but what leashes to get
    side hustle: datingbot.io

  2. #527
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    3,232
    ATK/Black Diamond leases are the best going for traditional style leashes IMO, they have a break away feature. Some like the B & D ski gear leashes but they are kinda long.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  3. #528
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,499
    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    Some like the B & D ski gear leashes but they are kinda long.
    The length is part of what makes them great IMO. You can remove your skis without taking leashes off. That has already saved me from chasing a ski once. They stay out of the way otherwise due to being coiled, but they obviously aren't as sleek as typical leashes and have a bit of a "made in the garage" look. They kind of remind me of Gravity Dropper MTB posts. They look rough around the edges but are well thought out and work great. For me at least.

  4. #529
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,499
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    im sure it's been covered but what leashes to get
    I have some unused ones that came with my Salomon MTN bindings if interested. $10?

  5. #530
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,107
    Quote Originally Posted by 3PinGrin View Post
    The length is part of what makes them great IMO. You can remove your skis without taking leashes off. That has already saved me from chasing a ski once. They stay out of the way otherwise due to being coiled, but they obviously aren't as sleek as typical leashes and have a bit of a "made in the garage" look. They kind of remind me of Gravity Dropper MTB posts. They look rough around the edges but are well thought out and work great. For me at least.
    Yup this ^^ long yes but cuz of the coily bit they stay out of the way, the idea as i understand it is the ski can get away from you and lose energy as it does so, I never actuly tried that part but it makes sense

    In use one can hook em up at the car and unhook em at the car end of day, leave them attached while dealing with skins, while eating lunch whatever, you can even walk with a ski in each hand over a rock band

    I used the BnD for a season and they worked fine, having said that I like brakes better so I put the brakes back on my Verticals even tho they are kind of a shitty brake
    Last edited by XXX-er; 05-07-2020 at 11:03 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #531
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    3,740
    I'm a fan of longer leashes to prevent bonehead moves on my part from resulting in a lost ski when trying to click into a ski in a sketchy position. My strategy is to always be leashed except for when the skis are on my pack. In these situations, I clip the leashes on before removing the skis from my pack - at least in questionable terrain.

    One thing I've found about the B&D leashes, is when it's cold, if you stretch them, they stay somewhat elongated until they warm up at home.

    Its not a problem if you wrap them around your boot the way most folks do, but then you lose some length.

    After the apocalypse, I'm going to play with the leashes that came with my Plum Guides. They stretch out to about 40", and I'll use the B&D fuses with them.

    The Plum leashes come with their own fuse - a small loop of nylon cord (1mm). It has a lap joint which looks as if they heat welded the nylon together. If you blow the fuse, you'll either have to roll your own or buy some from skimo (either B&D or Maurelli fuses).

    I can't figure out the ATK leashes that came with my Helios. If theyre fused, then it's the main, coily part which means it's destroyed a leash (at $33/pair), and you're also without a leash for the rest of the tour/trip. I ain't testing mine to find out where they break (saving them for resale, on the off chance I sell the binders ... yeah, right).

    With the Plums, and B&Ds, when you blow the fuse, you still have a usable leash.

    Post #53 shows my B&D leashes when they're not stretched out (OCD material follows. Don't say I didn't warn you):
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/....php?p=5940350

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 05-07-2020 at 07:12 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  7. #532
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,107
    yeah I used to loop them around my ankle

    a really good thing is you can't lose the ski, was on top of a summit where you do not want to drop a ski so I ripped skins and thru that ski down in haphazard manner .

    which absolutely freaked the guide out
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #533
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    3,740
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    yeah I used to loop them around my ankle

    a really good thing is you can't lose the ski, was on top of a summit where you do not want to drop a ski so I ripped skins and thru that ski down in haphazard manner .

    which absolutely freaked the guide out
    Yeah, in that link in my post above, I describe that scenario, and why I transitioned to attaching my leash to my boot, and clipping to the toe piece instead of clipping to my boot.

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 05-07-2020 at 04:07 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  9. #534
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,499
    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    Yeah, in that link in my post above, I describe that scenario, and why I transitioned to attaching my leash to my boot, and clipping to the toe piece instead of to my boot.

    ... Thom
    x2

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  10. #535
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    2,045
    Anybody use the Alpinist brakes? Do they suck? I know they have a pull tab string that breaks easily...any other insight?

    Also, can I buy a brakeless version (https://www.snowinn.com/ski-store/ma...778&country=us) and then buy the brake after-market, or would I be missing some critical piece. ETA: Comments in the skimo.com listing suggest I could do that... https://skimo.co/marker-brakes

    I'm thinking about getting the 115mm for my Protests (128 underfoot). Can the brake be bent enough to accommodate that ski (+13mm)?

  11. #536
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    409
    Getting the LT with brakes gives you 30mm of BSL adjustability vs. 15mm on the standard ones. Iíd imagine the weight difference is negligible.

    The brakes are a little finicky and the arms are a little more flimsy that others, but after a few dozen days they are issue free and havenít gone far during a release or two. One main benefit they have are clicking in on slick surfaces - the skis donít slide around like they would with leashes.

  12. #537
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    937
    Quote Originally Posted by meter-man View Post
    Anybody use the Alpinist brakes? Do they suck? I know they have a pull tab string that breaks easily...any other insight?

    Also, can I buy a brakeless version (https://www.snowinn.com/ski-store/ma...778&country=us) and then buy the brake after-market, or would I be missing some critical piece. ETA: Comments in the skimo.com listing suggest I could do that... https://skimo.co/marker-brakes

    I'm thinking about getting the 115mm for my Protests (128 underfoot). Can the brake be bent enough to accommodate that ski (+13mm)?
    meter-man, I've PM'd you.

    IIRC, the brake widths are reasonably generous and they have two bends per lever so tweaking them wider is easy enough. I widened some 90mm brakes the other day to fit a 102mm ski and it only took a nudge with a vice'n'pipe. Should be easy to tweak the 115mm brakes for a 128mm ski. I'll measure the 115mm brakes in the morning and let you know how they size.
    Last edited by Spyderjon; 05-18-2020 at 05:21 PM.

  13. #538
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    937
    Factory 115mm Alpinist brake on a Whitedot Ragnarok ASYM ski which are 122mm underfoot. Will only need a little tweak to clear a 128mm ski.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #539
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    687
    Quote Originally Posted by EricB View Post
    Getting the LT with brakes gives you 30mm of BSL adjustability vs. 15mm on the standard ones. I’d imagine the weight difference is negligible.

    The brakes are a little finicky and the arms are a little more flimsy that others, but after a few dozen days they are issue free and haven’t gone far during a release or two. One main benefit they have are clicking in on slick surfaces - the skis don’t slide around like they would with leashes.
    I agree with all of this. They're a little weak, but I still like them a lot more than leashes.

  15. #540
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    2,045
    Thanks for the feedback and photos people!

    Buying a pair from Spyderjon...with brakes.

    I have leashes on another pair of Alpinists but brakes seem to make more sense on a powder ski....my reasoning is suspect, so I will test and report back. Next winter. Sigh...

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