Results 1 to 25 of 28
-
11-25-2018, 05:08 PM #1
Recommendations for a 28t narrow wide chainring
Looking to go to 1x with the fat bike and can find lots of 30-36t, but few 28t options. Looking for something fairly inexpensive - I'm only doing this because I have a lightly used 11-42 cassette and goat link taking up space in the parts bin and it should save me a little weight.
Anybody have a 28 or 30t in their book with some life left they could get rid of cheap?
Seth
Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
-
11-25-2018, 05:55 PM #2yelgatgab
- Join Date
- Oct 2002
- Location
- Shadynasty's Jazz Club
- Posts
- 10,248
Cheap steel. They have some other mount options.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-...teel-ChainringRemind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
-
11-25-2018, 05:57 PM #3Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,881
Does the bolt pattern of your crank allow a 28T to fit?
I have a 28 absolute black but its a splined interfaceLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
11-25-2018, 06:13 PM #4Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 588
You'd have more luck if you told us what crank set you have.
-
11-25-2018, 07:31 PM #5
That's a great point. The bike has a raceface ride crankset. 2x10 drivetrain with 36/22 up front. I'm guessing the 36 is a 104 bcd. All of the 104 bcd rings I've seen stop at 30t, so I was planning on using the spot where the 22t ring currently sits. Probably a 90 bcd?
Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
-
11-25-2018, 08:29 PM #6
You probably won't be able to run a 28t on the inner ring spot without some creative spacing. Usually a ring that size in that spot will hit the chainstay. The fat bike might be different in that area, but most bikes have clearance issues there (which is why the ring you're looking for is rare).
-
11-25-2018, 08:31 PM #7
Thanks! I'll take a look at that area and see if it looks like there might be some conflicts. I suppose that makes the decision a little easier in the 28t vs 30t dilemma.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
-
11-26-2018, 04:14 PM #8
Took a picture of the clearance with my 22t inner ring and it looks like there's quite a bit of space in there. Gotta look close between the inner FD cage and the chain. I suppose a measurement would help... But short of that, how about some wild speculation? Any companies make a 28t 90bcd ring? Will chainline totally suck?
Seth
Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
-
11-26-2018, 04:22 PM #9
I was in a similar situation as you, and I ended up going with at 30T N/W from Raceface in the 104. Was happy with it until an awkward fall bent the shit out of it. Probably not the chainring's fault.
-
11-26-2018, 04:23 PM #10
Are you sure the inner ring is 90 BCD? I would think it's 64 BCD and this would agree:
https://www.raceface.com/products/details/ride-cranks
You can get 28t 64BCD rings. I bought an oval for my girlfriend's bike and it worked, no problem. I was not able to find any deals.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Absolute-B...Oval-Chainring
-
11-26-2018, 05:51 PM #11
No, wasn't positive on the 90bcd. Saw that searching and thought that must be what I need. Man. I looked at that exact page yesterday (although on my phone where everything is much smaller) but totally missed it. Thanks for the correction.
I was really hoping to find something in the ~$30 range, although I like the oval on my mtb. Using 64 bcd in my search terms I found some articles on MTBR about people doing this same thing and that lead me to this page on Modern Bike showing all 28t chainrings with a 64 bcd. Lots of options including XT and XTR options for less than $30.
Most on MTBR found that they had great chain retention even when not running a NW ring. For $20, I think I may give the XT a shot. Thanks for your input, everybody.
Seth
Edit: $12 on Amazon.
-
11-26-2018, 06:51 PM #12Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Posts
- 637
fyi that xt ring is designed for 2x/3x use and wont retain the chain as well as a n/w... idk how much it matters on a fat bike but personally i wouldnt choose to run it...
this is partly the reason you see higher end fat bikes commonly equipped with cinch type cranks, the smaller rings and weird axle/spacing/chainlines dont work very well with normal 64/104 cranks, the cinch interface allows axles/rings to be spaced a little more easily
-
11-26-2018, 07:41 PM #13Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2015
- Posts
- 785
-
11-27-2018, 08:17 AM #14Banned
- Join Date
- Sep 2017
- Posts
- 725
-
11-27-2018, 10:27 AM #15Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,881
you could try thots n prayers about what part will fit you bike, but I'm fairly certain that won't actualy make it fit
if you know what year and model you could might goggle an on-line spec sheet in about 30sec
it is possible to use spacers on BB shells & crank spiders for clearanceLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
11-27-2018, 05:39 PM #16
Thanks all for the help - deciding how much of a cheap bastard I am. :-)
Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
-
11-27-2018, 10:23 PM #17
This looks to be about the center of the chainline in the small cog. Not sure that I would need to use any spacers unless clearance was an issue.
Seth
Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
-
11-28-2018, 09:42 AM #18
-
11-28-2018, 09:50 AM #19
Ohhhh. Looks like it's designed to shift the teeth more towards the center of the crank. Not cheap as you want, though.
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...RoC554QAvD_BwE
-
11-28-2018, 10:45 AM #20
Fairly cheap. Fairly easy. TBD whether your derailleur capacity will be limiting.
https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Mount.../dp/B075MQTR3X
-
11-28-2018, 12:40 PM #21Banned
- Join Date
- Sep 2017
- Posts
- 725
-
11-28-2018, 12:48 PM #22Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 588
depending on where you ride 30T may be too big. I have a 26T and 46T rear and wish they made a 24T for my crank but don't. Steep climbs in deep snow.
-
11-28-2018, 01:26 PM #23
-
11-28-2018, 01:37 PM #24
Here are the gear analyses. The first column is the current Fat bike drive train. Second column is the 30x11-42. Third column is the 28x11-42. I chose 29er wheel size because, if memory serves, a 26" fat bike tire has a similar circumfrance to a 29er wheel.
As you can see, if I go with a 30x11-42 I lose more than a full gear on the low end. If I go with a 28x11-46 I lose just a little less than a full gear. The last 3-4 rides I've done I've been treating my 22x32 on my fat bike as my granny to see how it feels on some of the steeper climbs. The 22x32 essentially splits the difference between the 30x42 and the 28x42 of the 1x drivetrain. The results? Yeah, I can climb the stuff I want to (at least on fairly dry and mixed surfaces) with the 22x32, but it might be a little hard on the knees and in sustained snow a smaller gear would be nice.
The cheapest solution is just to buy the 30t for $20-30. 28t is about $45.
The fourth column is the final option I've been pondering: buy the 30t and move the 11-46 from my Tallboy onto this and replace it on the tallboy in the spring. That would give me better low end for climbing. It is more expensive, though, requiring the purchase of the ring for the fat bike and a cassette for the Tallboy. If I decide to upgrade to 11-speed, I'll also need a shifter (already running an 11-spd mech). The cassette is probably cheaper than wearing out the knees, though, and the old shifter could trickle down to the Fat bike so this might be the best option.
Seth
-
11-29-2018, 03:14 PM #25Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 30,881
No specifics but sometimes chain rings have a bit of offset so i have put them on backwards or even put them on the wrong side of the spider or used small washers to get clearance
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Bookmarks