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  1. #101
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    Aug 2007
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    Well, I'm glad my car is not in that group then. I hate driving a POS.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by skier666 View Post

    During winter/Spring, with three kids in the back of the car, I personally feel like its worth the time and expense for dedicated winter tires to know you have the best scenario when driving through a blizzard. However, it seems lately that a lot of the main tire shop franchises will not mount used tires...new ones, yes. I've had to go to the more mom & pop places to get it done. Buying an extra set of dedicated 21-22" SUV rims is an option but good quality ones can really set you back. The last couple sets of tires, I've just ran the winter tires through the summer and then reloaded with a new set in early November.
    finally someone ^^who gets " it " that a trip to the ditch could cost you more than $$$$

    can you get plain 21-22" steel rims ? IME tire swaps twice a year adds up so I always buy extra rims for my snows and they pay for themselves on the $$ saved for tire swaps in < 3 years. When i get rid of the car I sell the wheels separately or trade them back to the tire dealer for the next set of snow tires on the new car and If i mount my snows on dedicated rims my tire dealer will swap them for free and retork the wheel nuts in 100kms, same dealer will store the wheels for me but it costs extra

    but it sounds like some people can't afford nice cars or snow tires
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Missoula
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    1,211
    Also, just because your car comes with 20-21" wheels or whatever doesn't mean your winter set need to be that big. Generally you can size down an inch or two (or more), depends on the brakes. Basically nothing comes with brakes so big you need a 20" wheel, even some sports cars that come with 20s. Going to a tire for a smaller rim is generally cheaper plus the extra sidewall height adds some compliance, which can be nice on rougher surfaces you'll see in the winter.

    Quick example, say you've got a GMC yukon with 22s. tire size is 285-45/22. A blizzak DM in that size costs $292.

    Or, you could pick up some 18" wheels, either used OEM from some other GMC or steelies or whatever as part of a package on tire rack. That same blizzak in 265/65-18, which is the same overall diameter, only costs $205.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    879
    Quote Originally Posted by plugboots View Post
    Well, I'm glad my car is not in that group then. I hate driving a POS.
    Meh, Im happy driving a comfortable, capable, reliable car (while saving a bunch of money). To me, thats no POS, but YMMV.

  5. #105
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    Mar 2009
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    people are going deep into wheel and even car quivers. TGR forumz bringing it

    Don't forget the TPMS sensor change fee. Actually spent money on a tool on the internets so I could re-program my yota's TPMS sensors every time I change my wheels out.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    Don't forget the TPMS sensor change fee. Actually spent money on a tool on the internets so I could re-program my yota's TPMS sensors every time I change my wheels out.
    Ignoring the TPMS warning light = free.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #107
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    Sep 2009
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    Yep... sensors from my rig are long gone. The light will burn out eventually.
    PE, Mechanical Engineering

  8. #108
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    Mar 2010
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    Co
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    1,150
    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    people are going deep into wheel and even car quivers. TGR forumz bringing it

    Don't forget the TPMS sensor change fee. Actually spent money on a tool on the internets so I could re-program my yota's TPMS sensors every time I change my wheels out.
    What Toyota? Our Highlander (2017) remembers both sets. Discount tire programmed the new sensors when we bought snows and it remains happy when I switch them out. Until it gets 3 degrees warmer or colder and the pressure changes by .000005psi and the stupid light comes back on anyway.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    P-tex, CA
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    8,086
    Yup, forgot about the sensors...add those to the list. Those things saved me in Telluride this past Summer. I was searching for some late July snow (on more of a dirt road than a 4X4) and found nothing so I got greedy in the SUV. Took a more aggressive road high into a cirque-like basin. Tagged a sharp rock and punctured the sidewall. The TPMS alarm started going off and I fucking gunned it back about a 1/4 mile back to the main dirt road watching the pressure go from 40 to 0. Without them, I'd have to walk to get cell reception etc.

    Another point for mountain drives on your SUV...the security bolts on your rims. I suggest you remove them. From the above experience, I was like 'no brainer, I'll just put on the donut and order a new tire.' However, the security bolt requires 'a key attachment' with grooves that aren't too deep. So doing it by hand with a wrench is impossible. I had a guy help me with one of us holding the wrench in place while the other tried to turn and nothing worked. I had to call a tow truck so he could take 2 seconds and use an impact wrench and the bolt came right off. So I guess you could keep a charged impact wrench in your car or remove the bolt. If I was in the middle of nowhere, I'd be screwed. With normal bolts, I'd be fine.

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    north aspect
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    39,765
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    finally someone ^^who gets " it " that a trip to the ditch could cost you more than $$$$

    can you get plain 21-22" steel rims ? I
    trying to get the discount guy to find some 20’s to fit my truck was a joke. told him what i wanted and showed him a pic, no bueno but he had a set of fancy looking black one’s he thought would work
    fuck, i want cop steel wheels mounted with hak’s
    not some 20sumthins idea of what he thinks’ll work
    i may need to beat this horse a few more laps
    bF
    Alpental Indigenous

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by skier666 View Post
    Yup, forgot about the sensors...add those to the list. Those things saved me in Telluride this past Summer. I was searching for some late July snow (on more of a dirt road than a 4X4) and found nothing so I got greedy in the SUV. Took a more aggressive road high into a cirque-like basin. Tagged a sharp rock and punctured the sidewall. The TPMS alarm started going off and I fucking gunned it back about a 1/4 mile back to the main dirt road watching the pressure go from 40 to 0. Without them, I'd have to walk to get cell reception etc.

    Another point for mountain drives on your SUV...the security bolts on your rims. I suggest you remove them. From the above experience, I was like 'no brainer, I'll just put on the donut and order a new tire.' However, the security bolt requires 'a key attachment' with grooves that aren't too deep. So doing it by hand with a wrench is impossible. I had a guy help me with one of us holding the wrench in place while the other tried to turn and nothing worked. I had to call a tow truck so he could take 2 seconds and use an impact wrench and the bolt came right off. So I guess you could keep a charged impact wrench in your car or remove the bolt. If I was in the middle of nowhere, I'd be screwed. With normal bolts, I'd be fine.
    If it makes sense, you can always try carrying a breaker bar as well to help in loosening the lug off without an impact wrench.

  12. #112
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by GPP33 View Post
    What Toyota? Our Highlander (2017) remembers both sets. Discount tire programmed the new sensors when we bought snows and it remains happy when I switch them out. Until it gets 3 degrees warmer or colder and the pressure changes by .000005psi and the stupid light comes back on anyway.
    I have a 2013 sequoia and it only stores 5 codes at a time. I just dealt with the warning the first winter then just decided to buy the tool (ATAQ Quickset) for $40 used and give me the ability to do it myself since the winter wheels were OEM takeoffs from craigslist and actually had the sensors already included - I figured I would utilize them and including the tool may help with re-sell on the wheelset at some point but maybe not.

  13. #113
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    Sep 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by skier666 View Post
    Yup, forgot about the sensors...add those to the list. Those things saved me in Telluride this past Summer. I was searching for some late July snow (on more of a dirt road than a 4X4) and found nothing so I got greedy in the SUV. Took a more aggressive road high into a cirque-like basin. Tagged a sharp rock and punctured the sidewall. The TPMS alarm started going off and I fucking gunned it back about a 1/4 mile back to the main dirt road watching the pressure go from 40 to 0. Without them, I'd have to walk to get cell reception etc.
    .
    Or, like, change to the spare?
    PE, Mechanical Engineering

  14. #114
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    Oct 2003
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    Wet and Mild
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    4,334
    Get 18 inch wheels to put snows on for your F150. Large wheels and low profile tires on a truck scream "I'm a vain douchebag" louder than having 4 lightbars.

    The only thing funnier than low-pro snow tires are low-pro mud tires.
    Be good, or be good at it.

  15. #115
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by flowing alpy View Post
    trying to get the discount guy to find some 20’s to fit my truck was a joke. told him what i wanted and showed him a pic, no bueno but he had a set of fancy looking black one’s he thought would work
    fuck, i want cop steel wheels mounted with hak’s
    not some 20sumthins idea of what he thinks’ll work
    i may need to beat this horse a few more laps
    Back when I had my 2006 f150 I bought some black steel wheels from Tirerack (very cop car esque) for my blizzaks. They were 17s and cheap. Invoice says "17x7.5 6-135 et44 cb87 st new" although the bolt pattern has likely changed on newer f150s.

  16. #116
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    Nov 2003
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    P-tex, CA
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    8,086
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Or, like, change to the spare?
    It basically allowed me to get to a better zone to change to the spare. Which ended up for the best because the tow truck could not have made it to where I punctured the tire.

  17. #117
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    129
    Quote Originally Posted by flowing alpy View Post
    trying to get the discount guy to find some 20’s to fit my truck was a joke. told him what i wanted and showed him a pic, no bueno but he had a set of fancy looking black one’s he thought would work
    fuck, i want cop steel wheels mounted with hak’s
    not some 20sumthins idea of what he thinks’ll work
    i may need to beat this horse a few more laps
    So you think you need 20's for your F150? Doesn't sound like you know what you are talking about any more than the tire guy.

    18 inch steelies are easy to find and will work with Hakkas in the proper stock size (275/65r18). Or go a bit narrower with a 255/70r18.

  18. #118
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    Sep 2010
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    Den/Baltimore
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    4,801
    Quote Originally Posted by Havn View Post
    If it makes sense, you can always try carrying a breaker bar as well to help in loosening the lug off without an impact wrench.
    Yeah, I carry a breaker bar and a torque wrench. But I'm a nerd.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

    www.instagram.com/auvgeek/

  19. #119
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    Sep 2014
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    1,072
    Just read the o.p. post, nothin' else.

    A Corrola ain't gonna get far in northwest british columbia big dump coastal snowfall zones. Even with winter tires and awd, yer gonna get high centered when the plows can't keep up with snowfall on major routes and more likely sideroads...or get stuck on windrows in the middle/sides of roads during storms. Need the clearance of an s.u.v. Extra bonus of a bigger truck is impact protection from moose which is a big hazard in these parts. Small cars get crushed...with a bigger truck at least you have a chance of it just landing on the hood.
    What if the hokey pokey really is what it's all about?

  20. #120
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    3,644
    Quote Originally Posted by swissiphic View Post
    Just read the o.p. post, nothin' else.

    A Corrola ain't gonna get far in northwest british columbia big dump coastal snowfall zones. Even with winter tires and awd, yer gonna get high centered when the plows can't keep up with snowfall on major routes and more likely sideroads...or get stuck on windrows in the middle/sides of roads during storms. Need the clearance of an s.u.v. Extra bonus of a bigger truck is impact protection from moose which is a big hazard in these parts. Small cars get crushed...with a bigger truck at least you have a chance of it just landing on the hood.
    100%
    And sizing up on your winter tires a couple of inches gives a bit more clearance.
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    the situation strikes me as WAY too much drama at this point

  21. #121
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    16,281
    out on the main highway which up here isn't very main when the plow can't keep up nobody is going anywhere
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #122
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    56
    Quote Originally Posted by swissiphic View Post
    Just read the o.p. post, nothin' else.

    A Corrola ain't gonna get far in northwest british columbia big dump coastal snowfall zones. Even with winter tires and awd, yer gonna get high centered when the plows can't keep up with snowfall on major routes and more likely sideroads...or get stuck on windrows in the middle/sides of roads during storms. Need the clearance of an s.u.v. Extra bonus of a bigger truck is impact protection from moose which is a big hazard in these parts. Small cars get crushed...with a bigger truck at least you have a chance of it just landing on the hood.
    Moose are no joke. Survived this a little over 3 years ago.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  23. #123
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    4,191
    Quote Originally Posted by KyleLanTheman View Post
    Moose are no joke. Survived this a little over 3 years ago.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That should buff right out.

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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    8,888
    Let's also remember that it doesn't matter how good your tires are or whether you have 4WD or AWD if your wiper blades suck.

  25. #125
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    9,300ft
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    16,735
    RIMS: Most SUVs and trucks are fine with 16/17 or maybe 18" wheels. 18/19/20/21 are bling. Check! There are also usually a lot of cheap wheels on ebay and craigslist because people with too much money take off their factory 17/18s to buy bling 21s. Just make sure the bolt pattern is compatible (eg a 4runner/tacoma/tundra/FJ is going to be a 6x5.5 (6x139) and you want a 6.5-7.5" while a Subaru is probably a 5x100 unless you have a Tribeca).

    CHANGE YOUR OWN: If you have your own extra set of rims, you can get a floor jack and an electric impact wrench from harbor freight for $50 each which means you can change your tires with minimal effort in a half hour, no making appointments with the tire shop or loading/unloading tires in your car.

    DOWNSIZE: If your vehicle has high stock clearance like a 4Runner, or you have a lifted truck, or you don't get massive storms + drive on unplowed roads, downsizing your tire will decrease your cost, increase your actual fuel economy, and lower your center of gravity.

    UPSIZE If your vehicle has low stock clearance like a sedan, or your live somewhere with huge storms or you drive on unplowed, then upsizing your tire will increase your clearance, but check your vehicles forum to see how much you can do without rubbing.

    Again, narrowing your section width on your tire is a HUGE performance boost! eg stock 265 to 255 or 245, stock 225 to 215!

    TPMS if you vehicle gives you live readout of individual wheels in PSI, them maybe thats worth all the $, but otherwise you have one light that only comes on when they are >25% under inflated! That's far past the point where you lose performance, mileage, and experience accelerated and uneven treadwear!!! Be disciplined, buy a digital meter off ebay or amazon for $10, check once a week cold (to optimize pressures) and when you gas (for safety) and you'll get better mileage, performance, and treadlife.
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

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