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Thread: Theory behind waxing your board?
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11-25-2018, 10:31 AM #1Registered User
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Theory behind waxing your board?
As I started to think about scraping my storage, some idea popped into my head.
When I was younger, I just waxed and let the snow remove the excess wax. Then internet informed that wax in the pores of the base that breaks surface tension is what makes it go and not the wax itself on the surface of the base.
Well here is what popped into my head: does it have to be wax? Sounds like any substance that can penetrate into the pores that is different material from the base itself should break any surface tension. Right? I think we don’t want anything that melts at higher temperatures than base itself, but could anything works if it’s melting point is lower than the base? I’m assuming first person in the world to wax his/her skis used wax because that’s what they had 100s of years ago but now we got more options. Would different compound of plastic work? How about Elmer’s glue? It should bond within the pores and unlike wax being pulled out from snow, it should stay in the pores.... just like wax, smear the glue and push it in with cork. Let it dry and use razor blade to scrape it off??? I think that’s what the concept of new “never wax” stuff made by that ski company for dentists. Just something different than wax, but same concept: filling up the pores of the base.
This is purely for discussion purpose only but it might be fun to try on some dried up thrift store board to test my theory....
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11-25-2018, 10:32 AM #2Head down, push foreword
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I heard that waxing makes it look bigger.
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11-25-2018, 10:34 AM #3
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11-25-2018, 10:41 AM #4
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11-25-2018, 11:00 AM #5Registered User
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Oil based paint might work too...
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11-25-2018, 11:06 AM #6Registered User
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Wax doesn't penetrate pores. But Elmer's might do the trick.
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11-25-2018, 11:26 AM #7
I have an oil based coating for spring riding. It only lasts a few runs and is messy to carry.
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11-25-2018, 11:40 AM #8
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11-25-2018, 12:06 PM #9Registered User
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Theory behind waxing your board?
That’s why I think oil based paint might work after it dries. If it stays in liquid form, it’ll come off easy.
Other idea is dissolving something in water, pour it out onto the base and let the water evaporate. After the water evaporated, what ever that was dissolved is left in the pores....
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11-25-2018, 12:07 PM #10Registered User
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The person who figures out how to make skis stop sticking to Corn snow will make a fortune. They will deserve the rewards because they will prevent many injuries. I got my Hamstring torn by sticky Spring snow and I am sure there are many more stories like mine. It would be ironic if Elmers Glue was the answer.
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11-25-2018, 12:07 PM #11
old timers call it Dope ....
"we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
mike tyson
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11-25-2018, 12:20 PM #12
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11-25-2018, 12:24 PM #13
what pores?
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11-25-2018, 12:52 PM #14
We use to use mineral oil in the spring to keep the pollen from sticking to our bases. Worked good for that, but it didn’t really add any speed.
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11-29-2018, 10:44 PM #15Banned
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11-30-2018, 07:58 AM #16
don't forget to iron that elmers in real good and report back
embrace the gape
and believe
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11-30-2018, 08:55 AM #17
I use a non-nutrutive cereal varnish on all my planks.
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11-30-2018, 09:03 AM #18
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11-30-2018, 09:19 AM #19Registered User
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09-23-2019, 08:11 PM #20
Just took the summer wax off 3 pr. of skis. It kinda feels good to have those waxy hands again.
“How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix
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09-23-2019, 08:37 PM #21
If I need edges or wax, I'm skiing the wrong kind of snow.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums"Zee damn fat skis are ruining zee piste !" -Oscar Schevlin
"Hike up your skirt and grow a dick you fucking crybaby" -what Bunion said to Harry at the top of The Headwaters
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09-23-2019, 08:49 PM #22
DOPE IS KING!
(http://plumasskiclub.org/long.html)
In regards to wax, I've been having great results with this brand (and it's relatively eco-friendly, too): https://demonsnow.com/store/wax
To be quite honest, I'm pretty lazy about waxing throughout the season and I ski on average of 150 days a year. This spring, however, I waxed every damn day and it paid off as we had some sticky-icky in March and April and May and June and July in Tahoe (though since I am currently sans an iron, most of my waxing was rubbing on in the parking lot or if I was really motivated I'd let the sticks sit out in the sun for the morning prior to going skiing and then I'd rub on wax in the afternoon after the bases were hot). That said, I have not waxed since July 6th (last resort day of the season), so all of my late Julyl, August, and September turns were on skis sans wax and they worked fine.
And seconded on the corn...if your skis are sticking to it, then it ain't corn, baby!
PS
In regards to non-wax substitutes, I have used Ivory Soap on occasion. Had an OG instructor once tell me that is what he kept in his pocket as emergency wax. Definitely keeps the bases clean!
Also canning wax (aka parafin) is a really good base wax and a good all-arounder. I tend to keep a chunk of that in my pocket for those emergency wax needs.
PPS:
TECH TALK!!!
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09-23-2019, 09:52 PM #23
Can't really answer the question, just wanna say the whole idea of storage wax is the dumbest shit ever. Everyone has the same reason - "You don't want your base to dry out!" So fucking what if it does? It's plastic. It ain't gonna shrivel up like some neglected houseplant. A little rub on over the past few months accumulation of tree pollen and dust and she's good to go for a few months.
“I really lack the words to compliment myself today.” - Alberto Tomba
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09-23-2019, 10:26 PM #24
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09-24-2019, 06:40 AM #25
You need at least 2 beers while waxing before the ski-snow contact point can overcome the maximum value of static friction as the ski moves over the snow. 4 beers is better.
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