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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    277

    No one skis Gulmarg any more?

    So what ever happened to Gulmarg as a place to ski? A few years ago everyone (well everyone here) was talking about it, and you’d have a few incredible TRs a year. Now - nothing.

    Was it all hype that never materialized? Did we get old (and fuck did we) and give up on those sorts of trips? Security situation/frustrations with the infrastructure/avy deaths/little bit of all of it – just get too much?

    I’m finally in a work situation where I might be able to make that sort of a trip happen, and it seems like it’s no longer the done thing… Something I’m missing?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Glasgow
    Posts
    30
    One of my good friends and his girlfriend go out for the winter, every year. This year is no exception. They both board. As far as I know it's still as it ever was, though last year the snow was shite. Some of their snowfalls sound epic. Can ask him for more info if you want?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    2,248
    It's always my dream trip and I've been nearby in Kashmir not long ago, but in the summer. I go to India a lot, but I'm on an academic schedule so I'm usually there in the summer or over Christmas break. The snowpack doesn't usually start to get consistently good until late January most years apparently, so it's a bit tricky for me to make it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Pemberton, BC
    Posts
    2,237
    The mountains are likely still there. If there is snow on them its probably still a rad place to ski. I'd go if the political situation is relatively stable.

    Even without the lift running its worth it. I was there in 2007, the lift was broken down for weeks. We just toured to the top each day. Had the place to ourselves.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    5,364
    I've had the same thought: That place was the new hotness and then fell off the radar.

    Several movies and TRs over the years told tale of a snowpack that was often weak, huge avalanches, and minimal avalanche control in the area. I can't imagine that helps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    1,226
    Quote Originally Posted by Dromond View Post
    I've had the same thought: That place was the new hotness and then fell off the radar.

    ...tale of a snowpack that was often weak, huge avalanches, and minimal avalanche control in the area. I can't imagine that helps.
    I thought that was the attraction, wasn't it? That it was "raw". TBH it seems like a long way to go, for a relatively isolated, small area. Like go to Japan and have your pick of dozens of resorts scattered over a huge area. This place, one option.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    none
    Posts
    8,362
    It’s an interesting place.
    Having a corporal point an assault rifle at my head, as a Sargent frisked me, was kind of enlightening.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Between a rock and a soft place. Aberdare and The Brecon Beacons, Wales
    Posts
    3,214
    People I know haven't returned because of the down days.

    More consistent places out there.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    reiter hills 98251
    Posts
    205
    seems like georgia is the new place everyone is into nowadays. they have a lift that runs really fast, in reverse..

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Between a rock and a soft place. Aberdare and The Brecon Beacons, Wales
    Posts
    3,214
    Quote Originally Posted by Ale_capone View Post
    seems like georgia is the new place everyone is into nowadays. they have a lift that runs really fast, in reverse..


    That aside I had an epic trip to Gudauri, Georgia in January 2016

    It was deep, steep & cheap.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    reiter hills 98251
    Posts
    205
    that was worth watching! ��

    phenominal snow quality. liked that moment you looked legimatly kneck deep.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5,531
    Quote Originally Posted by Ale_capone View Post
    ... kneck deep.
    Huh?
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    the situation strikes me as WAY too much drama at this point

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Inside the Circle
    Posts
    4,182
    Have a friend that went to Gulmarg last year. He said it was pretty awesome.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    give'er eh!
    Posts
    2,175
    Lets be realistic- the snow is a gamble. The terrain inside the ski area boundary isn't that great. If you have 4-6 weeks you can get some good snow in. Best turns are backcountry, touring and in some cases 4-6 hours of a drive away. With that said its worth the trip just for the culture- you will not be disappointed no matter what mother nature does but keep your expectations low on the ski side just in case.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,731
    Well I guess subtropical solar radiation and highly variable snowfall don't make a reliable powder heaven

    Sent from my BLA-L29 using TGR Forums mobile app
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    18
    any Gulmarg updates for this 19 Season ?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,238

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    18
    been a major blizzard a week there on the Forecasts ;

    anyone completed a January trip there ?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    873
    Anyone been this season?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    In Full Compliance
    Posts
    1,934
    5 seasons at Gulmarg ('08-'12). Stopped going for four reasons: Russians, russians, russians, gentrification, hotels throwing waste in the forest and "guides" who had just learned how to ski/snowboard the previous season. Figured I was part of problems #3 and #4, and as someone who wrote TR's possibly reasons #1, #2, and #3.

    Several major avalanches this season, one with two fatalities this past first week of February 2023.


  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Pemberton, BC
    Posts
    2,237

    No one skis Gulmarg any more?

    Yikes. That’s terrible.

    I was there in 2007 for a fatality of a western skier. You really are on you’re own there. At least back then. Zero faith in any real avalanche control. It was a spooky snowpack after storms. The wind did weird things to that ridge. I remember the day before the accident thinking man the snow is touchy here. Maybe because I was mostly a coastal skier back then but it was super reactive.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Between a rock and a soft place. Aberdare and The Brecon Beacons, Wales
    Posts
    3,214
    Good read in Ski Magazine

    https://www.skimag.com/culture/on-th...ong-for-peace/

    Would still love to go but as I mentioned earlier in the thread, plenty of places with more consistent conditions

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    In Full Compliance
    Posts
    1,934
    Some inaccuracies in that article. Heli skiing for $120 per day? Hahahaha

  24. #24
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    give'er eh!
    Posts
    2,175
    Gulmarg is always sketchy. Was at Gulmarg in 2010 when a class 5 avalanche came off the mountain and killed a large number of army personnel in their base. Something like 15 people killed and another 60 or so rescued…,

    Dug a pit that morning as we had a plan to descend to Babarisht below the village and had a 2.5 meter column fail on a single tap.

    Shortly after we heard news of the avalanche and the impeding rescue operations headed to Gulmarg. Took about 6-7hours to get back up the road to town due to the convoy of Army and Redcross coming to help.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,827
    Quote Originally Posted by teamdirt View Post
    Gulmarg is always sketchy. Was at Gulmarg in 2010 when a class 5 avalanche came off the mountain and killed a large number of army personnel in their base. Something like 15 people killed and another 60 or so rescued…,

    Dug a pit that morning as we had a plan to descend to Babarisht below the village and had a 2.5 meter column fail on a single tap.

    Shortly after we heard news of the avalanche and the impeding rescue operations headed to Gulmarg. Took about 6-7hours to get back up the road to town due to the convoy of Army and Redcross coming to help.
    That was a wild storm cycle, we were sitting at the mid station base drinking tea listening to the freight trains rumble down the mountain all day, too afraid to even venture out into what was traditionally safe terrain given the historic potential. I have some buddies that have been going back each year for the past 5 yrs or so, but it isn't on my 'to return to' list right now. Other valleys in the region, absolutely, but Gulmarg itself has lost its luster for me.

    However, when you can manage the risk, and you navigate the bureaucracy and the gondola opens, and you get a weather window, and everything lines up, it can be very good.

    Way cool to see that Brian is still running the snow safety program there, absolute labor of love for him!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

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