Binding inserts Whistler

[pembyguy]

Anyone out there in Whistler providing quiver killer fitting? If not I’ll start myself!


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[rob stokes]

Escape route used to a couple years ago.


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[Hughwindlip]

Bump, I am looking to, Whistler or North Shore

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[pembyguy]

Escape route used to a couple years ago.


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Hey Rob. Yea 100$ a pop without hardware!!


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[Hughwindlip]

Time to DIY.

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[rob stokes]

Hey Rob. Yea 100$ a pop without hardware!!


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Fuuuuck that.


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[GPP33]

Hey Rob. Yea 100$ a pop without hardware!!


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Buy yourself a drill press for that. It ain’t that hard.

[galibier_numero_un]

Buy yourself a drill press for that. It ain’t that hard.

There's definitely a learning curve and after probably 15-20 installs, I'm still refining my technique. I'm all about learning curves, but I wouldn't trivialize the job in comparison with a standard mount. Use the Binding Freedom version inserts with the screw slots.

A drill press is unnecessary, but a tap guide is very useful. Even if you drill perfect holes, a tilted tapping operation will screw it up. OTOH, a slightly tilted hole can be corrected with a "vertical" tapping operation.

I do a hybrid insertion technique. I start with the double lock nut on a screw method which helps me to feed the insert so it's perpendicular (yet another opportunity for a tilted insert).

Folks get get "stuck" with the double locknut technique - the insert backing out when you back out the screw. I think alpinord (Slidewright) wrote about this a few years ago. I'll bet he has a FAQ on his blog.

The last couple of turns, I go to the screwdriver insertion method (a ground down, widened straight blade works as well as the insertion tool). This usually results in the insert not backing out with the screw, but not always.

I like to get the inserts a half turn to a turn or so below the surface of the topsheet (depending on ski thickness). You have a bit more screw length to play with that way and with some bindings, this is helpful (the two long screws on a Pivot heel).

Oh yeah ... clean the inserts to make sure there's not machining lube on them. I'll bet shops don't do this. My wife's ulstrasonic cleaner and some Simple Green works well.

The other benefit of the Binding Freedom inserts is if you ever run into a hole conflict on a re-mount. With a soldering iron and screwdriver, you can back them out. This happened with a used pair of skis I bought. Better lucky than smart

Use long setting epoxy. The West Systems Marine stuff is great.

Another way to screw up. I used to do a standard mount (to verify everything) and then undo it, open the holes up to do the inserts. I found that the countersinks weren't perfect, and with the re-drilling operation, the bit wandered a bit. I suppose that would be the one application where I'd use a drill press. These days, I mount the inserts directly, without the intermediate "standard" mounting step.

I think you can see that a shop earns its money by doing an insert install, but it's also a reason to learn how to do it.

... Thom

[GPP33]

Certainly doing it free hand there’s a learning curve and you need to be super careful but if you can accurately center punch a paper template there’s not really a learning curve with a drill press. It takes all of one hole to figure it out, use a piece of 1x2 poplar for a practice round but drill it all the way through so you can save your insert (not necessary with Binding freedom). All you do is set the depth stop, drill all your holes, swap the drill for the tap (yep put it in the drill press) and then tap all the holes. Do not turn the drill press on to tap the holes, just turn the chuck by hand. Like you said, clean your inserts (I toss em in a measuring cup with some alcohol), but also blow out your holes, you don’t want any sawdust down in there. After that fill em with some epoxy, screw your inserts in (I like to put a screw in a few turns Incase I got some epoxy on the inside threads) and let em cure. Trim any excess epoxy and you’re good to go. Using a drill press you need to really fuck up to get a crooked insert. Using the double nut technique has always worked well for me, as long as you don’t bottom out the screw and you separate the nuts before unscrewing it the insert should stay put.

[pembyguy]

Buy yourself a drill press for that. It ain’t that hard.

Yea that’s exactly what I’m looking at


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[pembyguy]

Thanks for the comprehensive detail guys


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[GPP33]

Hit your holes with a countersink (see link below, you can usually get them at the hardware store too) before you tap them and measure 6 or 7 times, you don't want to put these in the wrong spot.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01051325

[galibier_numero_un]

... if you can accurately center punch a paper template there’s

'nuther tip (not limited to inserts). Use a separate template for each ski. Put a pinhole in the center of each screw hole. This will serve as a guide for your centerpunch.

After you've punched using one template (for one ski), the holes widen and your precision will suffer - hence, two skis, two printouts of the template.

... Thom

[GPP33]

'nuther tip (not limited to inserts). Use a separate template for each ski. Put a pinhole in the center of each screw hole. This will serve as a guide for your centerpunch.

After you've punched using one template (for one ski), the holes widen and your precision will suffer - hence, two skis, two printouts of the template.

... Thom

Good call!