boot press options?

[turnfarmer]

I would have posted this sooner, but the one in theshop I work part time in is branded Confrormable and I assume it was now longer made until I stumbled on this Sidas catalogue- it's the one on page 68 of this link-

https://sidas.dk/pdf/sb_winter_1718_en.pdf

Ours is mounted on a bench and works well. Simple design, fixed arms, so logically, should be cheaper than the lever arm designs such as the SVST. But maybe not, Sidas isn't necessarily a budget brand.

[Flexon Phil]

found this. seems like I can use the big wheel for trimming footbeds etc and the hand end for shell work, or grinding out buckles?

https://www.gessweincanada.com/Produ...70215&CartID=1

Attachment 257779

I like the foot peddle of the Foredom to control the speed.

[climberevan]

I did a little welding this morning. I'll dig up some old shells to practice on. I made the anvil (a chunk of oak that I carved up) and ring removable for customization, and will make another arm for straight length punches if I need to.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

[mntlion]

I did a little welding this morning. I'll dig up some old shells to practice on. I made the anvil (a chunk of oak that I carved up) and ring removable for customization, and will make another arm for straight length punches if I need to.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

good idea! might need a bit longer arm on the upper end of the threadded shaft for more power? but GREAT idea and start

[mr_pretzel]

So how can I get a SvSt press if I’m not a shop?

[m2711c]

Start a shop..... might as well, you’re gonna has all the tools to anyways.

[mntlion]

So how can I get a SvSt press if I’m not a shop?

1) call and ask them?

2) https://blademaster.com/web/en/skate...21-sc6000.html $400 CND. I can do a lot of the work I need on it, but its smaller then the SVST ones

[poocher]

Excuse me for hijacking the thread with a question and beeing a total noob on the subject. But i live in an area where the next shop with qualified bootfitters are atleast 6 hour drive away and i hate it when my gear is not the way i want to. So i try to do alot myself.

So to the question. I get that with burlier boots with thick plastic you want the right tools. But have you guys tried and/or had any good results with just heating lighter touringboots with a heat gun while the boot is on the foot with padding where it pinches? positives and negatives? will it not be accurate enough for smaller toepunches maybe?

Seems like a good idea to question the pros before i try it myself! thanks.

[mntlion]

Excuse me for hijacking the thread with a question and beeing a total noob on the subject. But i live in an area where the next shop with qualified bootfitters are atleast 6 hour drive away and i hate it when my gear is not the way i want to. So i try to do alot myself.

So to the question. I get that with burlier boots with thick plastic you want the right tools. But have you guys tried and/or had any good results with just heating lighter touringboots with a heat gun while the boot is on the foot with padding where it pinches? positives and negatives? will it not be accurate enough for smaller toepunches maybe?

Seems like a good idea to question the pros before i try it myself! thanks.

this work was all done without a press
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...V-boot-molding

good for general work, not great for point stuff.

[gregL]

So to the question. I get that with burlier boots with thick plastic you want the right tools. But have you guys tried and/or had any good results with just heating lighter touringboots with a heat gun while the boot is on the foot with padding where it pinches? positives and negatives? will it not be accurate enough for smaller toepunches maybe

Plastics vary a lot even within the category of "lighter touring boots." Heating a shell locally with a padded foot in it will probably work pretty well for width punches on a Scarpa Maestrale/Maestrale RS or F1, because the plastic requires minimal heating and the shell punches super easily in the shop. Probably won't work well with the Alien RS, because of the thicker reinforcing band around the perimeter. In the same weight class, the Hawx Ultra XTD won't yield the same results because the Grilamid is stouter than that used in the Scarpas (even though it says "Memory Fit"). I would certainly try this at home or in a hut if I didn't have access to real bootfitting tools.

I would be surprised if your foot could exert enough pressure to increase even the thinnest light touring boot much in length, but I haven't tried. (Be sure to shield the toe lug if you try this). Maleolus punches, especially where the cuff overlaps the area, probably need a real boot press. Navicular area is a strong "maybe."

So it depends on the boot and the location of the fit issue.

[gregL]

PS Skill with the heat gun is pretty important with thinner shells - you want to get the gun as close to the shell as possible to avoid heating the upper open part of the scaffo (lower boot shell) as that tends to deflect easily. I try to keep the gun less than 1" away from the shell, and use intermittent applications of heat to avoid melting the surface of the plastic (try 5-10 seconds on, 5-10 seconds off). Keep a finger on the inside of the shell to measure the temp; when you can't hold your finger on the spot for more than 1/2 second it should be ready. Pay attention and watch for signs of a "glossy" surface on the plastic - a sure sign you're going too fast. No better way to learn than on your own boot.

[gregL]

You also will want to stand still on a flat, hard surface while the boots cool . . .

[mntlion]

FYI: I started using this idea on race boots. The lange ZC was the first one.

like greg said, doesn't do much for toe lenght (but helps makes a nice heel to allow the foot to slide back into, so that can feel like more toe room was created) but works great for width/instep.

Bottom like, it sure can't hurt much

[GoldenBC]

@ mtnlion , I heat molded my xmax130s and found that doing the lower buckles up tight actually dropped the instep height dramatically. Much in the way that we tell people to not crank those buckles down, as it deforms the nice shape of the boot, my boot was now molded in the flattened shape. Salomon says to only lightly do up the boots when heat molding.

I originally tried with the buckles cranked as I had the same thought as you: max tension, stretch the plastic. When I remolded the shell, I did it with the buckles just engaged enough to give my foot somthing to pull against. I found this worked much better. I now mold all customers like that.

Have you experimented both ways or on your own boots?

To add to this, I also felt a noticeable difference in my ankle tightness side to side. The second time I molded I did so with the upper buckles tight and with a strap around the ankle. This gave me a tighter fit again. I am now in the process of fitting a pair of Hawx Ultra XTDs that are a tight finger and my foot doesn't fit flat even without the liner in. I am going to try cooking the shells, removing them from the oven, covering the lowers with hot bean bags and putting ice packs on the cuff/ankle area. I want to mold the lower and nothing else. Thoughts?

[mntlion]

@ mtnlion , I heat molded my xmax130s and found that doing the lower buckles up tight actually dropped the instep height dramatically. Much in the way that we tell people to not crank those buckles down, as it deforms the nice shape of the boot, my boot was now molded in the flattened shape. Salomon says to only lightly do up the boots when heat molding.

I originally tried with the buckles cranked as I had the same thought as you: max tension, stretch the plastic. When I remolded the shell, I did it with the buckles just engaged enough to give my foot somthing to pull against. I found this worked much better. I now mold all customers like that.

Have you experimented both ways or on your own boots?

To add to this, I also felt a noticeable difference in my ankle tightness side to side. The second time I molded I did so with the upper buckles tight and with a strap around the ankle. This gave me a tighter fit again. I am now in the process of fitting a pair of Hawx Ultra XTDs that are a tight finger and my foot doesn't fit flat even without the liner in. I am going to try cooking the shells, removing them from the oven, covering the lowers with hot bean bags and putting ice packs on the cuff/ankle area. I want to mold the lower and nothing else. Thoughts?

Instep:
I add a bunch (5mm) of foam anywhere that more room is needed. So if I'm looking for more instep room too, I"ll add foam to the foot there. I would think that without that foam helping to puss back/up the boot would collapse and get lower?

I would think that multi temp should work, but I find to move a shell you need heat and pressure, so if you heat everything, but dont really put pressure (buckle tension) then it shouldn't change much? or add pressure but not heat, and it should also not change?

I have done this kind of work on 100+ customers boots, over 10+ years, but usuauly jsut ones in a tighter shell fit that actually need the room.

[GoldenBC]

Instep:
I add a bunch (5mm) of foam anywhere that more room is needed. So if I'm looking for more instep room too, I"ll add foam to the foot there. I would think that without that foam helping to puss back/up the boot would collapse and get lower?

I would think that multi temp should work, but I find to move a shell you need heat and pressure, so if you heat everything, but dont really put pressure (buckle tension) then it shouldn't change much? or add pressure but not heat, and it should also not change?

I have done this kind of work on 100+ customers boots, over 10+ years, but usuauly jsut ones in a tighter shell fit that actually need the room.

Sorry, to clarify, I don't ever need more instep room. The flattened boot feeling, while being snug, is disproportionately tight in places. Still, I think we are speaking the same language. It would make sense to build up the instep, not enough to make more room, but to maintain the original shape.

I would agree that things don't change much, however, more than enough for someone who wants a very tight fitting boot. I feel that the amount of pressure to give a snug ankle is more than enough to stretch the shell. I've talked to quite a few people who want super tight boots after getting a heat molding (without pads on their ankles), and they all felt that it was too loose afterwards. In my mind, it's a great technique for a recreational skier, or someone less anal about a snug fit (with no pain).

I've only heat molded less than 10 shells that aren't memory fit but probably 50+ that are.

Will report back after multi temp fit process.

On another note, I heat gunned the toe box of the hawx and padded my toes. Put boot on and leaned back, then cooled them down in that position. Managed to make noticeable length for my 3 and 4th toes.

[mntlion]

I'm suffering from a concusion and can't focus right now.

odds are it is me

[Duplo]

mntlion, did you ever get the Blademaster SC6000? How does it perform for ski boots? Specifically 1st/5th Met stretches.

Cheers,

D

[mntlion]

mntlion, did you ever get the Blademaster SC6000? How does it perform for ski boots? Specifically 1st/5th Met stretches.

Cheers,

D

yup, Its small, but can do side punches, hard to get it right for a toe/lengh punch, but most work is doable.

great for the price

[Lord Thomas]

Just saw this a couple of weeks ago. Thought I'd throw it out there if anyone is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b57uvfr7skY

[mntlion]

Just saw this a couple of weeks ago. Thought I'd throw it out there if anyone is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b57uvfr7skY

nice, for the price, hard to miss. Might order one to try

[Lord Thomas]

I might do the same.

[Nevada29er]

I bought the alum fittings from Patriot and 18" Irwin welding clamps. You really need to crank on the 5mm allen bolt to tighten it, but my first heel punch worked great on some Scorpions, and the plastic is really thick back there.

It probably helped that I had done some grinding there already for my heel spur, but the punch gives me a perfect heel spur pocket. Pics to follow.

[Redster13]

Attachment 254191

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Attachment 254190

Anyone want a foodbed machine? Trying to fund/find a boot press

I know it’s been a while since this was posted but thought it was worth an ask still. Is the footbed machine still available ?

[mntlion]

I know it’s been a while since this was posted but thought it was worth an ask still. Is the footbed machine still available ?

mine is gone, chance I can find another.

what do you have to trade or how much cash?