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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
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    33,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    And frequency
    How many TGR posters does it take to change a lightbulb?
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
    And there will come a day when our ancestors look back...........

  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Beautiful BC
    Posts
    2,971
    Quote Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive View Post
    These are the bulbs; straight 120, no low voltage transformer.

    Attachment 251407

    No clue about quality, they just had the color range I liked best.

    I have no idea what dimmer I have, but I’ll try a Lutron Diva and see if it helps. I could always switch back to halogen, but I’d rather not have to.
    An MR16 is 12V, not 120V. Someplace there is a transformer. Either the track is 120V and every fixture has a transformer or the track is 12V and there is a transformer for the entire track.
    If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    797
    Quote Originally Posted by Snow Dog View Post
    An MR16 is 12V, not 120V. Someplace there is a transformer. Either the track is 120V and every fixture has a transformer or the track is 12V and there is a transformer for the entire track.
    https://www.amazon.com/Promotion-Hal...olt+mr16&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/SIGALUX-Halog...olt+mr16&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/Spotlight-Sim...=120+volt+mr16


    There are lots of 120v mr16's.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Central OR
    Posts
    5,963

    Electricians: another dimmer question

    The track is 120, so each fixture must have a transformer.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Suckramento
    Posts
    21,467
    So, you're saying those fixtures are more than meets the eye
    Quando paramucho mi amore de felice carathon.
    Mundo paparazzi mi amore cicce verdi parasol.
    Questo abrigado tantamucho que canite carousel.


  6. #31
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Beautiful BC
    Posts
    2,971
    Quote Originally Posted by exsparky View Post
    There are lots of 120v mr16's.
    Good point. Looking around I also found GU10 base lamps that are 120V and some that are 12V. And MR16 lamps that are 12V and 120V. (MR16 = multifaceted reflector, 16/8 inches in diameter)

    Best to read the fine print on the package.
    If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Central OR
    Posts
    5,963
    Update: Went with the Philips Warm Glows; very pleased. Hum is almost gone, and the color is much better than what I had. Thanks folks!

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    8,378
    Quote Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive View Post
    Any source for these reasonably cheap? They're all over ebay and Prime, but they seem to ship from the UK. Any issue with 50hz vs. 60hz if I order from overseas?
    I didn't see this post earlier, sorry.

    Idk why they're showing up to buy from UK...odd. They're more expensive because it takes more leds with different amounts of phosphor...to get the different Kelvin temps in one lamp. More $$$

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Greg_o
    Posts
    2,659
    Quote Originally Posted by Jethro View Post
    Our go to dimmer for led lights is the Lutron Diva 153cl.
    Thank you! Did a search on dimmers, found this thread, tried the Diva and it solved my strobe issue. Cool stuff.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aspen, Colorado
    Posts
    2,645
    I’m glad that info helped. The maestro line is pretty nice also, with more features and expense. I’ve found them to be more fragile than the simple mechanical switching of the Diva line

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    The Vil
    Posts
    1,077
    Question for the pros here. I need to get a chest freezer for my basement to store 2 deers i got this season. My basement is the only place it can go but to my knowledge there are no outlets minus the 220 for the dryer. What does it take to add a breaker and run some wire for an outlet? Ive hooked up plents of switches and outlets in the past but never have messed with a breaker before.

    I see bulb adapters that have a 3 hole grounded adapter on it...dont suppose that could handle a 3 or 5 cubic foot chest freezer?

    What about a 220 to 110 plug adapter and use my dryer plug?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,753
    In my professional opinion, the plural of Deer is Deer.

    But really. Is the panel in the basement? If so, look to see if there are any unused breaker spaces. If there are, it is pretty simple. Cut the main, pull the front plate, pop the breaker in, and wire it up. Run MC or non metallic conduit over to where you want the outlet, strap the conduit or MC to the wall, add a box and duplex( in this case, I would go with a single outlet though) and plate, and done. I would also recommend Youtube or better yet, find a licensed electrician looking for some side work.

    Warning- if you hire an electrician, depending on your state's code, he may be required to install a GFCI outlet, or GFCI breaker. That is new code in "wet" areas like basements and garages, and it plays havoc with chest freezers. They make GFCI outlets that throw an alarm, so you know they have tripped. This is only helpful if you are home though. My experience is that my chest freezers full of fish and hog meat like to die when I am out of town, so the alarm will not help much. If they have to use a GFCI, demand the outlet, and when he leaves, change it out to a single.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    The Vil
    Posts
    1,077
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    In my professional opinion, the plural of Deer is Deer.

    But really. Is the panel in the basement? If so, look to see if there are any unused breaker spaces. If there are, it is pretty simple. Cut the main, pull the front plate, pop the breaker in, and wire it up. Run MC or non metallic conduit over to where you want the outlet, strap the conduit or MC to the wall, add a box and duplex( in this case, I would go with a single outlet though) and plate, and done. I would also recommend Youtube or better yet, find a licensed electrician looking for some side work.

    Warning- if you hire an electrician, depending on your state's code, he may be required to install a GFCI outlet, or GFCI breaker. That is new code in "wet" areas like basements and garages, and it plays havoc with chest freezers. They make GFCI outlets that throw an alarm, so you know they have tripped. This is only helpful if you are home though. My experience is that my chest freezers full of fish and hog meat like to die when I am out of town, so the alarm will not help much. If they have to use a GFCI, demand the outlet, and when he leaves, change it out to a single.
    Haha I didn't even notice the deers part, deer is for sure the correct form.

    As to the issue at hand, i called my uncle who i forgot has been a union electrician for 30 plus years and he made it sound easy to install a breaker and indeed it was! Thanks for the reply!

    Sent from my SM-G955U using TGR Forums mobile app

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Greg_o
    Posts
    2,659
    Quote Originally Posted by Jethro View Post
    The maestro line is pretty nice also, with more features and expense.
    Happy with the diva, can't see my cheap ass spending even more on a switch.

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