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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    Man, it sounds like you have a solution ($$) in search of a problem. A 2015 carbon Bronson is definitely not obsolete. What are the problems that you have with it that is causing you to want to sell it or upgrade it?

    1. Suspension doesn't seem well tuned.
    2. Shifting is poor? Range is small?

    For 1., take Toast's recommendation and figure out what about it isn't working to your expectation. Are you using all of your travel? Is small bump compliance poor? Is it rebounding from bumps too quickly? There are solutions for all of these not the least of these is custom suspension tuning which costs a lot less than a new bike.

    For 2., is the high range too low or high? Is the low range not low enough? Consider a new cassette or chainring. Is the shifting no longer crisp? Consider new cables.

    Most of the problems are solved through tuning/tweaking. A new bike may not solve the issues you are trying to solve or, worse, introduce new problems you didn't already have.

    Seth

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Good advice. I’ll get on it once it’s back from the shop and figure out what is going on. You probably saved me $6500.

  2. #27
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    Wow, it's the bike industry's fault for giving you too many choices? Elevating entitled whining to a whole new level. Nice work!

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    Good advice. I’ll get on it once it’s back from the shop and figure out what is going on. You probably saved me $6500.
    I'll send you my PayPal. Even at 50%, you're only out $3250. :-)

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app

  4. #29
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    In my opinion if you're not flipping your bike even 2 years, you're not going to get your moneys worth out of it. Its better to keep it a few more years.
    When I worked in a shop I could sell a bike every fall and order a new on for spring delivery. It has taken me a few years to get use to the idea that i dont need a new bike every season.
    You'll get $3000 tops for a 2015 Bronson in the fall, and come spring you're selling a 4 year old bike.
    Keep it and spend some money and effort on the suspension and treat your self to some nice contact point parts and you may fall in love again.

    I just went though this same thing with my 2015 Intense T275. I dedicated a week of riding to solely focusing on my suspension settings. I rode the same laps over and over again. I spent 2 days dialing in my forks sag, pressure and tokens, and another day matching the rear shock to the front. After that I spent 2 days with rebound and compression. It takes a while when you only change one setting at a time and need to pedal up another lap to compare settings.
    Long story short, I am in love with my bike again, and my strava segments have proven that I'm going faster which means I'm more comfortable at speed with a dialed suspension.

  5. #30
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    Buying a new bike, bike industry has lost me

    ^^^100 years ago at a Sea Otter I had a long talk with the Fox guy about setting up my suspension, and he said the same thing. Do the same section you like over and over and over until you get your suspension dialed.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  6. #31
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    Sep 2017
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    725
    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    So, I currently ride a Santa Cruz Bronson, CC 2015, with custom build, envy wheels, XO etc.. I am thinking i need to replace it and get some value out of the bike before it becomes totally obsolete.

    I have been trying to figure out what to get. I know that Santa Cruz, Pivot and Yeti are making some of the better bikes, but jesus there are so many SKU's, 29er, 275, oversized. How do these guys expect to sell when there are so many choices.

    I understand that i need to decide on what i am looking for, which happens to be a cross between a cross country and enduro. Flow trails are what i am primarily riding, but plenty of steep descents and ascents here in CO.

    Any suggestions?
    I built up a 2014 carbon Enduro this year. No reason to replace your bike if you like it and it's in good shape....maybe a couple upgrades or tweaks to refresh it.

  7. #32
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    Sep 2017
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    While we're at it, Yeti and Evil are two of the most overrated brands in the industry.

  8. #33
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    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by panchosdad View Post
    Wow, it's the bike industry's fault for giving you too many choices? Elevating entitled whining to a whole new level. Nice work!
    I hear you, but on the other hand it's a shit load of research trying to find the right bike that probably costs twice as much as we think it should. It's hard to test ride exactly what you want to even know for sure what you are buying after that, and is a frustrating experience to deal with dialing in suspension.

    Some people enjoy buying shit, for me it's a chore. I don't think he's whining, I think he's just frustrated that there's so much info to wade through,

  9. #34
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    Sep 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    SO this was my other question. It is worth putting the eagle drive train on it and then just riding it into the ground? Keep it for another couple years.
    Can you post or link to full specs of the bike? I'd say Eagle isn't worth it. I'm on wide range 10spd and have no intention of downgrading to 11 or 12 speeds.

  10. #35
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    Aug 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    While we're at it, Yeti and Evil are two of the most overrated brands in the industry.
    I had a couple of shop guy friends who have given me similar advice/warnings about buying those of those brands.

  11. #36
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    Jan 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    I hear you, but on the other hand it's a shit load of research trying to find the right bike that probably costs twice as much as we think it should. It's hard to test ride exactly what you want to even know for sure what you are buying after that, and is a frustrating experience to deal with dialing in suspension.

    Some people enjoy buying shit, for me it's a chore. I don't think he's whining, I think he's just frustrated that there's so much info to wade through,
    First of all there was no whining. I am someone who was looking for a new bike. I wanted to spend some money and walked into a couple of shops and was so fucking overwhelmed i went home and started doing some research. Then it was just downright confusing. This is a take on the bike industry. With all these SKU's you are making, the purchasing of a bike is way to fucking hard. And it is frustrating. I used to watch all the inovations but have lost interest.

    So i post up here and get some great advice and now will just dial in the suspension and maybe upgrade my drive train.

    On the drive train note. I am riding a 28 upfront and an 11-fourty somthing in the back. I spin out on the dh's so that is why i was thinking of going to the eagle.

  12. #37
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    Sep 2017
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    You might try some offset shock bushings and upgrading your Pike from 150mm to 160mm, if it isn't already. Possibly a stem that's 10mm or 20mm shorter. If you were feeling really frisky, you could try a 190x51 shock in it, that would really slack it out and drop the BB.

    Then dial in your tire setup and suspension setup. Critical.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    On the drive train note. I am riding a 28 upfront and an 11-fourty somthing in the back. I spin out on the dh's so that is why i was thinking of going to the eagle.
    You're probably rolling on an 11-42 cassette, hence the 28T chainring. Couple ways you can address this without replacing a whole drivetrain:
    -go to a 11-46 Shimano cassette (no freehub change needed) and a 30T chainring. Same granny gear, but more top gear.
    -go to an e13 TRS+ 9-46 cassette (you probably need to also buy an XD freehub). Either keep the 28T and have a stoopid easy gear or go to a 30T chainring

  14. #39
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    I have the exact same bike. 30T chainring and 11-46 cassette - the only time I can spin it out is if I'm going fast down a paved road. So really, just swap that 28T for a 30T and with 46 in back the granny gear is fine.

    The v1 Bronson is somewhat particular with suspension setup - once you find the sweet spot, though, it's pretty damn great. I really have no desire to upgrade for a few more years at least, since it probably won't lose too much more value than it already has.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeJ View Post
    I have the exact same bike. 30T chainring and 11-46 cassette - the only time I can spin it out is if I'm going fast down a paved road. So really, just swap that 28T for a 30T and with 46 in back the granny gear is fine.

    The v1 Bronson is somewhat particular with suspension setup - once you find the sweet spot, though, it's pretty damn great. I really have no desire to upgrade for a few more years at least, since it probably won't lose too much more value than it already has.
    So i went to the 28, because i am so fucking slow going up hill. I like having that low end. I still have my 30, if i get stronger i can switch it back.

    Thanks for the input.

  16. #41
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    Sep 2017
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    Worth considering.

    https://r2-bike.com/Garbaruk_1__11-speed__SRAM-XD_1

    There's also the E13 cassettes, but Garbaruk is nicer IMHO.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    Worth considering.

    https://r2-bike.com/Garbaruk_1__11-speed__SRAM-XD_1

    There's also the E13 cassettes, but Garbaruk is nicer IMHO.
    so that would work with SRAm xo or X1? that looks like a sweet cassette and going down to 10 is sick. Can you get them in the us, or only euopre. That looks like the ticket.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalated View Post
    You're probably rolling on an 11-42 cassette, hence the 28T chainring. Couple ways you can address this without replacing a whole drivetrain:
    -go to a 11-46 Shimano cassette (no freehub change needed) and a 30T chainring. Same granny gear, but more top gear.
    -go to an e13 TRS+ 9-46 cassette (you probably need to also buy an XD freehub). Either keep the 28T and have a stoopid easy gear or go to a 30T chainring
    So if i have to buy and XD freehub, do i need to relace my Envy rear wheel to get the free hub on?

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    So if i have to buy and XD freehub, do i need to relace my Envy rear wheel to get the free hub on?
    I don't have a clue what hubs your wheels have, but generally you can buy freehub bodies for most common hubs separately. You shouldn't need to replace the wheel.
    Note you'll need an XD freehub for those Garbaruk cassettes too. Anything smaller than an 11T, you need an XD freehub, the standard Shimano freehub doesn't have enough space.
    Can't speak to the Garbaruk cassettes as this is the first time I've heard of them, but real happy with my e13 so far.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    While we're at it, Yeti and Evil are two of the most overrated brands in the industry.
    HERETIC!!! THOU HAST PROFANED FOR THE LAST TIME!!! LET'S BURN THE WITCH!!! BURN!!! BUUURRRNN!!!!!

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalated View Post
    I don't have a clue what hubs your wheels have, but generally you can buy freehub bodies for most common hubs separately. You shouldn't need to replace the wheel.
    Note you'll need an XD freehub for those Garbaruk cassettes too. Anything smaller than an 11T, you need an XD freehub, the standard Shimano freehub doesn't have enough space.
    Can't speak to the Garbaruk cassettes as this is the first time I've heard of them, but real happy with my e13 so far.
    OK, so i am not great with the tech. The xd free hub would just replace the exteriour of the hub (if my hub is compatable), without having to take the wheel apart and re lacing everything. Correct?

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    OK, so i am not great with the tech. The xd free hub would just replace the exteriour of the hub (if my hub is compatable), without having to take the wheel apart and re lacing everything. Correct?
    Yeah, basically. I don't know about other hubs but on my I9s, you take the wheel off, remove the cassette, and the freehub just slides off and you slide a new one on. I think other hubs are similarly easy.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by skideeppow View Post
    OK, so i am not great with the tech. The xd free hub would just replace the exteriour of the hub (if my hub is compatable), without having to take the wheel apart and re lacing everything. Correct?
    Your Enve's should have DT Swiss 240 hubs. You just need to replace the freehub, which pops off with out tools. You dont need to rebuild your wheels or anything like that.
    here is the difference between a DT Swiss Brand free hub for Shimano cassettes and Sram XD cassettes.
    Name:  DT_Swiss_Free_hub_body_kits.jpg
Views: 419
Size:  24.1 KB
    Less than $50 anywhere online.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Your Enve's should have DT Swiss 240 hubs. You just need to replace the freehub, which pops off with out tools. You dont need to rebuild your wheels or anything like that.
    here is the difference between a DT Swiss Brand free hub for Shimano cassettes and Sram XD cassettes.
    Name:  DT_Swiss_Free_hub_body_kits.jpg
Views: 419
Size:  24.1 KB
    Less than $50 anywhere online.
    Thanks for the help.

  25. #50
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    Jan 2004
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    ok one last question, if i did the 10/50 or the 10/48, would i need a different rear derailliuer, something with a short cage? I guess i need to see what is on the bronson now

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