Results 26 to 37 of 37
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10-07-2018, 10:25 AM #26
Car engine paint would also probably be able to handle the heat. If it were mine, I'd sand it a little and just spray or brush a couple coats of high temp safe paint on it.. unless it were REALLY rusted all the way through at points.. If that were the case I'd try to patch it with more sheet metal and lots of silicone to apply/glue on the patch.
Oh, and the advice above to shim one side to prevent pooling is an excellent call!Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!
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10-07-2018, 11:11 AM #27
High temp paint is not necessary !! Just clean it and pait it with a cold galvanizing spray bomb availabke at most hardware stores. Rustoleum makes one
What if "Alternative" energy wasn't so alternative ?
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10-07-2018, 11:38 AM #28
Looks like theres a couple spots that aren't just surface rust. Especially in the middle.
Get a new chase cover fabricated out of stainless steel w/ a drip edge.
Problem solved.
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10-07-2018, 01:37 PM #29
Got all supplies last night and just was up on the roof. After scrubbing with a wire brush I can confirm that it is surface rust. After pooring water on it, I can also confirm chase cover doesn't drain correctly. Water pools on top.
The attached photo is what it looks like post scraping with wire brush and barkeeper's friend.
My roof is about 30 feet above the ground. Popping the cover off and fixing is above and beyond what I'm comfortable doing on my own. Having seen the water pooling, I also think that painting is a bad idea. Going to hold off on doing that, since I think water sitting on top of the paint is a recipe for the paint to flake off.
I think the best course of action now is maybe to spray on rust mort once or twice per year when I'm on the roof for swamp cooler maintenance.
Thought on this plan?
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10-07-2018, 02:17 PM #30
That's a galvanized sheet. Rust mort then cold galvanize it. Rust mort is not a protectant
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10-07-2018, 02:25 PM #31
You think you have a problem. You want to have a problem. But you don't really have a problem.
The tinners tried to put slope in the assembly, that is what the four creases in the sheet metal are. The installers most likely DNGAF and pushed in down too far. If the negative drainage bugs you, try this:
Pull the spark arrestor
take the crews out of the collar of the chase cover
try to pull the chase cover up to create drainage
reattach to the vent pipe
reassemble
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10-07-2018, 03:03 PM #32
Or you could get a drill, drill index, a few pop rivets, silicone sealant and a dent puller. Drill a hole the same diameter as your pop rivets in the low point. Use the dent puller to get the sheet steel so that low spot is a higher spot and the cover drains. Rust reform the cover, cold galvanize it, coat a pop river with the silicone and install it into the hole to seal it.
If I was going to the trouble of taking the spark arrester and cover off I would replace it with stainless or at least sheet aluminum.
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10-07-2018, 11:27 PM #33
Paint the fucking thing ! Stop looking at it and enjoy your life !
Its not a problem. The flashng is doing its job.What if "Alternative" energy wasn't so alternative ?
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10-07-2018, 11:31 PM #34
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10-08-2018, 07:38 AM #35
I'd rip the whole thing apart and build a real chimney out of brick or stone.
"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
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10-08-2018, 10:24 AM #36
Thanks dudes. Going to stop worrying about it. Went for a trail run with my pup yesterday afternoon after walking away from this.
I'm generally a preventative maintenance contingency planner. Always trying to stay ahead of issues, etc. Good to know I can let this go.
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10-08-2018, 10:38 AM #37
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