Residential Architects and Engineers....roofers

[::: :::]

Whoever wrote that doesn’t fully understand flat roof waterproofing technology.

Flat seamed fully waterproof roofing for a flat roof is a very unique skill set that I’ve not really seen done in the US in a loooong time (ie historical)

[::: :::]

Whoever wrote that doesn’t fully understand flat roof waterproofing technology.

Flat seamed fully waterproof roofing for a flat roof is a very unique skill set that I’ve not really seen done in the US in a loooong time (ie historical)

Zinc is an awesome material
But if comp roofing cost is 1x,
Mtl roofing is 7-10x (pre-finished mtl, ie painted)
& copper or zinc is 15-25x
(All depending on complexity)

[skifishbum]

id just buy icemans md house
and move it to your lot
will pilot car for weeds

[Foggy_Goggles]

This isn't really my specialty but what I have seen work in the mountains is mechanically fastened EPMD. The install contractor really knew what they were doing and had a lot of experience. I want to say it was something like $18/sq. ft installed. You need a solid plan for all roof/wall intersections, penetrations, overhanges, scuppers etc. There contract/warranty stipulated not fasteners through the roofing. I fabricated and installed free floating synthetic decking systems over the top.

[schindlerpiste]

Wait a second....your architect drew up that house knowing the design review guidelines you posted? 3350 excluding what looks to be a three car garage? I'm guessing $1.2 minimum build cost excluding land, utilities and site work.

I actually like that design on paper but it looks like a nightmare from the stand point of construction, maintenance, HOA compliance, cost and a bunch of other stuff. As mentioned, design plus execution is the key to success. Your engineer and architect best be working real cost (I suggest the same firm) and I'd need to see solid proof of any of their proposed systems demonstrating long term viability in your climate.

Something similar may be viable with a combination of single pitch roofs, parapet walls and such. I hope you have started talking with a builder and an engineer before you fall in love with a design that is gonna take all your money. I've seen it.

Your pretty darn close. Promontory, the development actually has quite a few homes similar to this design. I didn't post all the guidelines, and there are many that leaves it to the boards discretion. I think that I am working with quality people, who have experience in the area. We are dealing with height requirements, and if we raise the pitch, we need to lower the house. Right now, I am leaning towards zinc, or some other weathered steel, as opposed to ballasted.

[flyman683]

If/when the leaks happen, I'm willing to consult pro bono for room+board+ lift Tix in the dry part of the house.

Expert witness at court costs extra.

Sorry to be so negative, but I've spent a lot of time leak chasing/consulting on stuff like this. Once our firm was even building the billionaire bosses penthouse condo on top of one of our high rises.... Lots of different flat surfaces, parapets, etc. Everyone knew who it was for, lots of care taken, yet a couple detailing mistakes by "cheap" apprentice roofers and one minor performance issue with a membrane to wall connection and there I am called off another job, spending about a year chasing it down... Lots of practice with IR and fiber optic cameras though.

Pedestal pavers, or similar, are good option if a membrane needs to be covered with something as it creates walkable deck, decent aesthetics, and no holes.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[::: :::]

to all the dentists, there are still sites available...
https://www.promontoryclub.com/homesites-for-sale/

[SumJongGuy]

I have seen tin roofing instaled directly over existing duroid shingles, they just nail 1x4 over the shingles and screw the tin to that, i don't know what the difference in cost is but shingles are the cheapest

I got one ski boot in the grave so I will need one more tear-off n shigle replacement on this place so are you young enough to really need more than one roof replacment ?

I got 33 years out of the duroid shingles on my last house so 2/3rds is probably about right, tear off and replacement of Duroid roofing was pretty fucking cheap

It's a small house, 1300 square feet. If it's $4000 for shingles or $5000 for metal I'd go metal for resale value.

[Timberridge]

to all the dentists, there are still sites available...
https://www.promontoryclub.com/homesites-for-sale/

I see a couple of issues that would potentially preclude me from owning a place there. 1) The brochure makes no mention of a private jet accessible airport nearby--not SLC. 2) Do they allow rotary wing aircraft to land on the site?

[::: :::]

I see a couple of issues that would potentially preclude me from owning a place there. 1) The brochure makes no mention of a private jet accessible airport nearby--not SLC. 2) Do they allow rotary wing aircraft to land on the site?

A quick scrub of the CC&Rs doesn’t preclude it

I think you’re golden

You might want to capture as many of the adjoining lots still open as soon as possible because I know you won’t want neighbors as close as a single acre lot away

[Djongo Unchained]

id just buy icemans md house
and move it to your lot
will pilot car for weeds

Yes, you in the Lead Pilot car, me, well I'll just ride drag...

[Timberridge]

A quick scrub of the CC&Rs doesn’t preclude it

I think you’re golden

You might want to capture as many of the adjoining lots still open as soon as possible because I know you won’t want neighbors as close as a single acre lot away

Perhaps this place warrants further consideration. They have some amenities the Yellowstone Club doesn't offer.

Agreed, I would be interested in a few lots. An acre doesn't provide much privacy for some of the things I want to do there.

[schindlerpiste]

I can always count on this place for a good laughs mixed in with the relevant posts. Thanks!

BTW, Heber airport, which is 15 mins away would be able to accommodate your private transportation needs.

[Timberridge]

Schindler, this Heber airport you mention looks ok.



The added advantage, coming from the East Coast to UT, is the altitude is not as taxing on my physical well being as it is in MT. Another consideration.

[Slopetime]

...and what I posted is just a small portion of the roof design criteria....

Roofs in that part of the country are maybe the most critical detail of a structure. Aside from the aesthetic requirements, flashing details and material selection would be of utmost importance in longevity and maintenance required IMO.

The flat roof concept in a snow region seems to be potentially problematic in the long run.

[mcski]

Landings are only permitted on rooftop treadmills. No take offs allowed.

[hutash]

Might I suggest building the house in an avalanche path. If it slides regularly it will keep the roof from loading...bonus is you get to practice avi skills.

[schindlerpiste]

Any roof that is less than 5/12 will experience snow load. This is what engineering and heat coils are for.

[shafty85]

Your engineer and architect best be working real cost (I suggest the same firm) and I'd need to see solid proof of any of their proposed systems demonstrating long term viability in your climate.

These comments are with respect to Canadur, so take them with a grain of salt.

Engineers have very little control over building cost in terms of the overall design of a house unless you're paying them substantially more money to be an integral part of the project process - they may make suggestions if things are totally impractical, but that's about it. Typically, the designer (an architect is not required up here, though some are used for houses) designs the house and the engineer makes the structure work within that - they rarely meet the owner and have little to no contact with them. An engineer can design a structural system that is cost effective, or not, depending on their experience, knowledge, etc but again, typically only within the confines of the design received from the designer/architect. It's the designer/architect, contractor and owner who come up with a design that is both within the owner's specs and budget - this is where having a knowledgeable design team comes in handy. You want floor to ceiling, no-return, triple pane windows and a nano door on the front? As long as the engineer can design the structure to work for the gravity and lateral loading, go for it. Will it cost you an arm and a leg? Yes - it's assumed that's been explained to you and you are willing to pay that cost.

I hope you have started talking with a builder and an engineer before you fall in love with a design that is gonna take all your money. I've seen it.

This is a good suggestion - many headaches/frustrations I've seen could have been prevented through 10-15min worth of discussion regarding the structural practicality of a structure with an engineer. Though, unless you are willing to pay them you likely won't get much time from the engineer beyond what their relationship with the contractor will buy you in good will.

Just my $0.02

Best of luck with the build!

[hutash]

^^^Which is why I have been wondering why this is even a question. I would have hoped the architect would have dealt with all this with the engineer after the initial design concept.

That is how it worked with our fire rebuild. The architect an us came up with a design, then she consulted with the engineer to tweak things to make it work. Totally seamless, and painless (other then a couple K in engineering fees.) Plans go to the city and pretty much get rubber stamped because all the real work is done. Our contractor gets a full set of plans and pretty much just inserts tab A in slot B. Everything is pretty well spelled out (except for a few finish carpentry touches, which is what our builder excels at.) Fuck, even the pint is pretty well decided.

[::: :::]

Any roof that is less than 5/12 will experience snow load. This is what engineering and heat coils are for.

hopefully you're not saying heat coils on a flat roof?
might wanna re-check that...maybe just at interior roof drains?

given the insulation on top of the deck, there should be no issue with ice buildup since it should be exterior temp at the surface of the insulation, no thermal drift from interior heat like an attic might have

[::: :::]

These comments are with respect to Canadur, so take them with a grain of salt.

sounds like US too

[schindlerpiste]

hopefully you're not saying heat coils on a flat roof?
might wanna re-check that...maybe just at interior roof drains?

given the insulation on top of the deck, there should be no issue with ice buildup since it should be exterior temp at the surface of the insulation, no thermal drift from interior heat like an attic might have

Really, I have no idea. With the exception of finishes, aesthetics, and general desires, I will rely 100% upon my architect, engineer, builder and their contractors.
I suspected that when I typed that, someone would call me out. However, I do not envision a scenario where I will be walking on my roof with a shovel.
Check this out: https://www.nventthermal.com/Images/...m432-55566.pdf

[::: :::]

Really, I have no idea. With the exception of finishes, aesthetics, and general desires, I will rely 100% upon my architect, engineer, builder and their contractors.
I suspected that when I typed that, someone would call me out. However, I do not envision a scenario where I will be walking on my roof with a shovel.

I say just leave the snow there until it melts on its own, unless you get some weird ass wind drifting that looks like it might be dangerous were it to fall

[flyman683]

Our contractor gets a full set of plans and pretty much just inserts tab A in slot B. Everything is pretty well spelled out... Fuck, even the pint is pretty well decided.

Wow, I need to start designing beer into my plan sets. I'm missing out.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk