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09-18-2018, 04:34 PM #26Registered User
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09-18-2018, 04:36 PM #27
do the snowload design requirements in the area accommodate current seismic shaking probability, too?
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09-18-2018, 04:41 PM #28Registered User
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09-18-2018, 04:53 PM #29
also consider TPO/EPDM vs a liquid applied
all these systems are fairly equivalent in performance
they are each repairable & have their own foibles
my guess is pricing/logistics is going to be dependent on your local contractors
yes, more spendy...they are basically commercial applications, tho they've become common in residential applications
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09-18-2018, 05:48 PM #30Banned
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We could have saved 20+ posts if either AcinPDX or myself had finished our first posts with [\thread].
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09-18-2018, 06:51 PM #31Registered User
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09-18-2018, 07:01 PM #32Registered User
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epic fail
flat roofs are all the cool right now
I even like them but not really
build that house in the desert where you don't get any rain or snow
how much snow you get?
learn to clean you roof off a couple times a winter too
hiring the cheapest guys to do it so they knick it up real good
or just waste energy and fill the roof up with heat tape and piss money away
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09-18-2018, 07:04 PM #33
One of the reason for the flat(isn) roof is that the height restrictions of the community is 28". Right now, we are at 27.5'. If we need to pitch the roof, then we need to lower the house.
“How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix
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09-18-2018, 09:15 PM #34Registered User
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Nothing like coming home after work and climbing out a window to shovel off the roof. Especially if the snow is higher than the bottom of the window.
Got a roof rake, which was better, just don't use it near the power lines if they aren't buried.
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09-18-2018, 09:45 PM #35Registered User
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Mags are slipping once again...
Make each roof section a giant treadmill. Problem solved with a few extension cords and the button on the power strip. Make sure to spring for the surge protected version of that power strip so you don't have to replace the giant treadmill. Those are spendy.
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09-18-2018, 09:54 PM #36Registered User
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09-18-2018, 09:56 PM #37
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09-18-2018, 10:01 PM #38
Well, that is correct.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR ForumsWell maybe I'm the faggot America
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09-20-2018, 12:45 AM #39
Don't do ballasted if there is any wind. Corten would need to be over a membrane of some sort, and with thermal expansion will rely heavily on something else at your wall/roof interfaces anyway. If it's for appearances sake, fine, put it over the membrane but now you've got penetrations to hold it down and can't get at the roof to inspect/repair.
Re: flat roofs- if your engineer can't design for snow loads they have no business being licensed. That said, depending on where you are at you may want to design over code minimums. Here in AK ASCE minimums are often low depending on your location, plus climate change, etc, etc...
That said, you've got a whole lot of different elevations in this design. Keep in mind that each of those creates a whole nother vertical to horizontal transition, all of which means; flashing details, siding selection (because snow will be sitting 3' tall against, more with wind drifts), thermal expansion, etc are even more critical. Not that it can't be done, but your detailing and installation workmanship will need to be perfect... And a roofer who is good at their own details when "standard" often gets screwed up when things get complex, plus whoever is doing wall flashing/siding/etc needs to be on top of their game. The key to projects like this is having good details drawn by architects/engineers with real world experience, and then making sure they get executed.
Keep in mind that most builders, designers, etc may think things went awesome at construction or for the first year after during warranty, but rarely follow up to know if design or detailing actually worked as envisioned.
If the detailing isn't good you'll get leaks all over the place, particularly during spring freeze/thaw
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09-20-2018, 06:07 AM #40
wife says that aint a small house
as a roofer id tell ya
they all leak eventually
flat ones sooner if they aint installed right
fuck ballast needless weight and possible flying projectiles
60 mil pvc or cpa mechanically fastened single ply
im not sold on tpo's long term performance yet"When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
"I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
"THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
"I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno
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09-20-2018, 06:38 AM #41
The house is ~3350sq.ft., thus smaller than our old house.
I have a feeling that this roof is not going to be approved by the development. Here are some applicable Design Details of the community: If the Committee, in its sole discretion, approves a roof with a pitch lower than 5:12, the roof must be entirely comprised of copper, cortex steel, or zinc.
3. Flat Roofs: At its discretion, the Committee may approve flat roofs with very shallow pitches
which are proposed for Promontory homes. Flat roof designs should only be engineered with
Promontory Design Guidelines 33 Reference Date: March 2017
careful consideration regarding the heavy snowfalls that often occur in Promontory’s mountain environment. Flat roof designs should also specifically address and sufficiently explain their visual impacts on neighboring Homesites, Common Areas, Open Spaces, roadways, etc. (which may be located adjacent to and/or above the particular home). In this spirit, the Committee will take special concern in the reviewing and approving of the design and construction of any flat roof at Promontory; and it will only approve the proposed roof if it is appropriate to the Homesite location in the Community; to the particular Homesite Design; and to surrounding landscapes, residences, common areas, and/or other building structures. The flat roof surface must be comprised of a living-green roof, pavers, and/or corten, copper or zinc—or a combination thereof. Ballasted roof surfaces are not allowed on custom homes, except within the Nicklaus Valley area of Promontory, where the Committee, in its sole discretion, may approve specific types and/or mixtures of dark colored ballasted rock for all or for a portion of flat roof custom home designs.Promontory mandates compliance with the carefully contemplated standards regarding roofing materials. Owners shall be responsible for submitting proper proof of compliance with the following standards as part of the Design Reviewprocess:
1. Permitted Roofing Materials: Roof materials which are permitted at Promontory include the following: weathered corten steel (i.e. rusting steel), copper (which is allowed to naturally turn brown or patina), zinc (which is allowed to naturally patina), architectural grade fiberglass shingles, slate, concrete shake tiles, flat concrete tiles, and certain other low reflectivity tiles.
2. Retention/Ridgeline Area Considerations: Roofs on Homesites in a Retention and/or a Ridgeline Area must be finished with materials that are completely nonreflective and that are colored in earth tones.
3. Prohibited Roofing Materials: The following roof materials are prohibited at Promontory: asphalt shingles with a standard or medium thickness, all types of barrel or “S” tiles, all asphalt roll roofing, and any permanent shiny copper or other blatantly reflective metal surfaces. As well, wooden shake shingles and/or other flammable roofing materials are prohibited at Promontory, due to Fire Department regulations. Thus, pre-finished metal roofs will be too reflective and will be prohibited unless the Committee specifically evaluates and pre-approves them. Corten steel, copper and zinc which is left to patina are the three (3) designated metal roofs of choice at Promontory.“How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix
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09-20-2018, 06:44 AM #42
That’s alot of rules. Maybe buy some land somewhere that doesn’t come with a fat rulebook?
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09-20-2018, 06:56 AM #43
...and what I posted is just a small portion of the roof design criteria....
“How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix
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09-20-2018, 07:07 AM #44
ida just bought acreage somewhere out farther and appointed myself hoa supreme ruler or benevolent hood czar
fwiw i like the design standing seam copper would look nice
probably cost more than i own now days
post a pic of kats new dog and maybe i can find it a home
at my old mans crib"When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
"I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
"THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
"I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno
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09-20-2018, 07:15 AM #45
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09-20-2018, 07:20 AM #46
What's the cost difference between an standard tar paper and shingle job versus a decent metal roof? Existing roof was stripped and redone with new tar paper and shingles in 2000. Thinking we're 2/3rs of the way to time to re do it again and thinking metal would last longer than shingles.
Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!
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09-20-2018, 07:57 AM #47
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09-20-2018, 08:12 AM #48Registered User
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I have seen tin roofing instaled directly over existing duroid shingles, they just nail 1x4 over the shingles and screw the tin to that, i don't know what the difference in cost is but shingles are the cheapest
I got one ski boot in the grave so I will need one more tear-off n shigle replacement on this place so are you young enough to really need more than one roof replacment ?
I got 33 years out of the duroid shingles on my last house so 2/3rds is probably about right, tear off and replacement of Duroid roofing was pretty fucking cheapLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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09-20-2018, 08:17 AM #49
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09-20-2018, 08:32 AM #50
Wait a second....your architect drew up that house knowing the design review guidelines you posted? 3350 excluding what looks to be a three car garage? I'm guessing $1.2 minimum build cost excluding land, utilities and site work.
I actually like that design on paper but it looks like a nightmare from the stand point of construction, maintenance, HOA compliance, cost and a bunch of other stuff. As mentioned, design plus execution is the key to success. Your engineer and architect best be working real cost (I suggest the same firm) and I'd need to see solid proof of any of their proposed systems demonstrating long term viability in your climate.
Something similar may be viable with a combination of single pitch roofs, parapet walls and such. I hope you have started talking with a builder and an engineer before you fall in love with a design that is gonna take all your money. I've seen it.
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