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08-22-2018, 05:40 PM #1
1x11 for gravel bike - SRAM Force 1 or DIY DI2?
Mrs. Suit has instructed me to get myself an Open U.P. for my birthday, so I've been trying to understand my high-end 1x11 options. I think I've boiled it down to a choice between going with SRAM Force 1 or Dura-Ace brakes/shifters with an XTR rear derailleur. Either way I'm planning to use the SRAM 10-42 cassette and a Praxis Zayante Carbon crankset.
For now, I figure I'll be riding mixed pavement/fire roads/minimal singletrack in the Bay Area, and also exploring the dirt/gravel roads in and around Jackson Hole.
What says the collective?
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08-22-2018, 05:51 PM #2
Without even looking into this, can you get eTap? because I love it.
Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
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08-22-2018, 06:05 PM #3
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08-22-2018, 06:11 PM #4
1x11 for gravel bike - SRAM Force 1 or DIY DI2?
I was wondering about the capacity, but I wasn’t sure if things changed since I bought mine. I recall they were working on this, specifically for this type of bike. When I was comparing DI to eTap it was no contest.
Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
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08-22-2018, 06:23 PM #5
My cross bike has sram 1x11 and my road bike has di2.
The biggest benefit I have noticed is the front shifting. You just push a button and it smoothly goes onto the other ring, either direction, any cadence, any load. It's really amazing and I had to get used to not easing up so much to get onto the big ring because it actually does it smoother and faster if I just keep pedaling. Of course, with 1x, that's irrelevant.
At the rear end, well, you have to push the lever a little harder and a little farther on the mechanical system vs just pushing a button. di2 shifts smoothly and quickly and you can hold the button down and it will keep going which is nice. The di2 is smoother, but I've always liked the way sram feels and shifts.
The sram is lighter, simpler, cheaper, works well. I bought my road bike used and while I do like di2 I would not have spent the money for it with a new bike, even if I could afford the 8k or whatever it cost new.
I imagine it won't be long before sram has an etap derailleur with a clutch available. nino's already on one. That might be more reason to go with a sram group, as you could upgrade once the clutched etap RD comes out and your brakes will be compatible.
Oh, the other thing is that while I have seen setups with shimano road shifters and a mountain derailleur, I think I heard something about a software update and now it's not possible, but they have an "ultegra RX" derailleur that is clutched for road/gravel/cx use, both mechanical and di2. oh, but it says you can only use an 11-34 cassette. So, not sure on getting a wide range cassette di2 setup going with road shifters.
di2 is way cooler though.Last edited by jamal; 08-22-2018 at 06:56 PM.
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08-22-2018, 07:18 PM #6
1x11 for gravel bike - SRAM Force 1 or DIY DI2?
Di2 for the win. IMO Shimano has a superior brake system, and way better rotors.
No issues mixing XTR and DuraAce.
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08-23-2018, 06:00 AM #7Registered User
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Di2. It just works, especially when it gets dirty and wet. There are rumors of an ETap MTB group set but no one knows if it is cross compatible with the road shifters or when it is coming out.
You also don't need to go XTR, you could consider the new Ultegra Di2 with the Clutch, it can run an 11-34. I think if you use a Wolftooth Roadlink it can go even larger.
I think the XTR can run a larger stock cassette though but if you ever want to add a FD you're shit out of luck as it won't work with the XTR RD.
You should be able to find an XTR RD used pretty easily, same with RS785 Di2 shifters if you're on a tighter budget post-bike acquisition. But it sounds like you have a great budget so I wouldn't bother. The new shifters are so much nicer.
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08-23-2018, 07:49 AM #8
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08-23-2018, 09:17 AM #9
Are you running disc? If so you could use TRP Hylex hydraulic brakes and use the Di2 remote climbing shifter insert in the hood. Then you could run XT Di2 rear derraileur and wide range cassettes.
Heres the TRP adapter: https://www.trpcycling.com/product/h...2-adapter-kit/
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08-23-2018, 09:32 AM #10
But then you are running TRP......I liked my spires OK, but after putting Rival Hydro on, and riding enough shimano hydro bikes, SRAM and Shimano have it figured out. Also, put a dropper on that thing, because why the fuck not? PNW components makes a drop bar 27.2 dropper.
"If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"
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08-23-2018, 01:09 PM #11
So far, sounds like the consensus is for DI2.
Other stuff, in random order:
- I looked at the clutched Ultegra, but I don't think it has enough capacity. I'm pretty set on starting out with the SRAM 10-42 cassette, and I can imagine trying the e.13 9-46 someday.
- I'm not really budget-limited
- do the TRP Hylex brakes have advantages over Dura Ace? I don't know anything about them.
- I might try a dropper. The KS website says their LEV-Ci takes rhythm from the trail and injects it straight into your soul, but I don't have a soul, so nevermind.
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08-23-2018, 02:22 PM #12Registered User
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Yeah, I don't think you can run a 10-42 with the Wolftooth Roadlink. Per their website, it's acceptable but not to factory levels.
That's awesome you're not limited by a budget. Definitely go Dura-Ace 9170 then. I haven't heard a single bad thing about it yet.
It looks like the Hylex is compatible with Di2, but it's pretty janky and you're required to run it with climbing switches. That'd bother me.
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08-23-2018, 03:08 PM #13
I don't think some kludged together combo of trp brake levers, remote shift pods, and a derailleur extension link thing for a part not designed for the cassette is what he's looking for...
Oh, must be the thing they don't let you is mix a road front derailleur and mtb rear. I remember reading something about road/mtb di2 compatibility getting reduced with a software update. You would definitely want to go with an xt/xtr di2 RD for that cassette assuming it all works.
Also, in addition to the two shift buttons on each lever there are small buttons under the tops of the hoods. You can program any of the buttons to do any thing, so, for example you could make every button shift down and make the bike unrideable! Or set it up with duplicate controls on each side, or some sort of an e-tap like config. With the wireless adapter and some bike computers you can have the buttons change pages and it will show your battery life and gear. On mine the hidden buttons shift the rear derailleur.
Oh, and make sure you go with the inside the bar end junction A. The one thing I don't really like is the big mess of stuff on/under my stem while everything else is so clean with the internal routing of brake cables and wires.
Like, this is nice
but I really need to do something about all this:
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08-23-2018, 05:01 PM #14
If you're running 1x11 there is no issue with mix and matching dura ace and xtr. I like the way the shifter buttons are positioned on the trp hylex, and like the hood shape(plus drilled out levers look rad). Having bashed up a shift lever today, the advantage of the hylex is if you stuff it and bend the lever it's a lot cheaper to replace.
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08-23-2018, 06:15 PM #15Registered User
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OH! On the note of that shitty Di2 junction box, look for some handlebars that allow for the junction box to sit in the bar ends if you can!
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08-23-2018, 07:15 PM #16
That bar-end junction box is slick!
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08-23-2018, 07:24 PM #17
I wish I was home to take some photos to show off some slick Di2 hidden wire set ups.
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08-23-2018, 08:41 PM #18
1x11 for gravel bike - SRAM Force 1 or DIY DI2?
All this extra wire crap for what is supposed to be electronic was a big reason why I got eTap. Too bad it doesn’t work for cross 1X yet.
Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
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08-24-2018, 02:44 PM #19
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08-24-2018, 03:12 PM #20
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08-24-2018, 03:35 PM #21Registered User
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08-24-2018, 04:41 PM #22
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08-24-2018, 05:07 PM #23
The shimano/pro bars and stems definitely are. And then basically any bars with provisions for internal cable routing should work- it doesn't really have to be di2 specific, you just need a way to get the wires in and out of the handlebar and it's probably not great to go drilling your own holes.
I think there are even ways to go completely internal, like through the bar, into the stem, and through the steerer into the frame.
And I would definitely like the internal junction and wiring but it's a couple hundred bucks just to like, clean up a couple of wires so I haven't bothered.
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08-24-2018, 06:52 PM #24
Any bar with an open end, and able to pass the wire through, then drill away.
Lots of carbon bars seem like you can’t pass the wire through them, but they sometimes just have leftover carbon mounding material stuck in there. Like pieces of mounding bladder.
Best way is to vacuums dental floss trough, tie the dental floss to a brake cable (because shifter cables on road bikes went out of style in 2013) and pull the shifter cable through the bars, then tape the Di2 cable to the shifter cable back through.
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08-24-2018, 07:04 PM #25
I have a bar end A-junction in the right handlebar. It’s wired to the right shifter internally.
Right shifter is internally wired to left shifter
Left shifter follows the brake cable under the bar tape and exits externally beside the left (rear) brake cable, internally entering the frame where the rear brake enters the frame. These two are warped in heat shrink together making it look like one single cable.
Left shifter is wired to B-Junction internally located near the bottom bracket.
FD, RD and internal seat battery all run internally from the B-junction.
Clean and almost 100% internal.
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