Results 26 to 50 of 62
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11-13-2018, 11:17 AM #26
Thinner means you won't be leading on it unless you're going with double/twin ropes. There's not much in the sub 9 mm range yet and it really is for limited applications, you're not going to work your sport project on an 8.7 mm rope (unless your pockets are way deep). I use a 9.1 or 9.2 when I have to walk far (using one of the BD ropes lately) and a cheap 9.8 when the crag is close or I know there will be lots of top-ropes or other shenanigans.
As far as the Petzl RAD system goes, it's not really climbing-oriented and 30 m is a deal breaker. I have a dedicated 8 mm static rope I bought years ago to use for rappelling on long routes only but it's a PITA to trail. IMO you'd be better of with a dedicated 6 or 7 mm rappel/pull cord carried in a pack to supplement the lead rope. Seems to be the most common system you see in places with long ass routes like Red Rock.
Regular single rope + 6 or 7 mm pull line
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11-13-2018, 12:59 PM #27
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11-13-2018, 01:13 PM #28
Oh for skiing the RAD would work great. I've never rapped on a 6 mm line though, it's way skinny. You'd definitely want to use a munter or a re-direct if going with a belay device or you'll burn a hole in your gloves. I have a 30 m 7 mm line and always feel a bit spooked when I rappel something vertical, the weight of the pack/skis/gear is noticeable. Mine is dynamic for the rare times I'd want to rope up and lead a pitch.
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11-13-2018, 01:25 PM #29
I've rapped my fat ass on two strands of 6mm perlon (static) using carabiner brake method, 3 cross biners I think
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11-13-2018, 01:40 PM #30
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11-13-2018, 01:56 PM #31Registered User
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11-15-2018, 08:13 AM #32
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11-15-2018, 02:33 PM #33Registered User
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You also may be able to use a standard ATC for rapping if you use two, identical biners to increase friction through your device. One other thing to check out would be determining if some 4mm cord will work for backing up your rap with a prussic knot.
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11-16-2018, 08:30 AM #34
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11-16-2018, 09:31 AM #35
I've read this a hundred times; guess I have to trust it.
Interesting that the two lockers aren't the same (am I reading it correctly: one H and one round profile?) and are not opposed. Does the rope need a consistent surface to run across (which wouldn't be provided by two opposed D's)?
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11-16-2018, 10:14 AM #36Registered User
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I think it means that you can use round or H lockers - see a bit further below where it shows a single locker and still shows the round and H logos. I don't see why they would have to be different - but I've always used a munter with thinner ropes so my knowledge is admittedly limited.
I'm also curious about why they are not opposite and opposed though!
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11-16-2018, 11:39 AM #37
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11-20-2018, 08:08 AM #38Registered User
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From this season on I will use a RAD Line by Petzl for the intended use on ski tours: rappels and Glacier Travel.
I think for the rappels you should go with two binders that have a big cross section and a atc/ reverso. Rappeling with a munter hitch has always been a pain in the ass but there are / will be special eights to handle the new super thin ropes. You could consider this as well.
For glacier travel I would go with the Petzl (no other brand) as they have a special design of the surface to go with the tribloc.
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11-20-2018, 08:45 AM #39Registered User
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For quick ski belays and cuts, I find standard ATC use is pretty good on the 5.5-6mm skinnies. For steeper raps, I’ve found that stuffing both ropes into a single slot gives immensely more control than the double-biners, and doesn’t require the extra gear. I was using an already small DMM bugette, and the control improvement for a single notch was significant.
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11-20-2018, 09:47 AM #40Rod9301
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Super munter works really well on skinny ropes, or even a single skinny rope and it doesn't twist it
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11-21-2018, 09:22 AM #41
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11-21-2018, 09:23 AM #42
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11-21-2018, 09:33 AM #43
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11-21-2018, 10:02 AM #44Registered User
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11-21-2018, 10:43 AM #45
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11-22-2018, 03:44 PM #46
i still crag and TR with ~10.5 60m,
skinny ropes stretch too much
and dont last long.......
on the other hand,
i like ~9.6
for a redpoint max.....
back to the food, drink
and women."we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
mike tyson
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02-04-2019, 06:25 PM #47Registered User
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If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.
This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5
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02-04-2019, 09:18 PM #48Rod9301
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02-04-2019, 10:07 PM #49
Brilliant. Thanks for the tip. Does it release fine?
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02-05-2019, 12:28 PM #50
I've been using one of these guys for the past couple seasons as a back up for single line raps and while developing routes. It's easy to get distracted by one of the 45 things dangling off the harness and constantly getting tangled and pull a dumb move like rapping off the end or locking the grigri open and zipping down. That thing has saved my ass a couple times and makes pulling back up a few feet really easy. I've tested it on a 8mm static and it grips really well. Good to hear that it works on 6 mm although I think my favorite rope option for skiing remains a 7.5ish mm dynamic 30 m line. It's super light, very packable, and doesn't shock possibly shitty anchors as much since it's so stretchy. Plenty of friction with a single micro-locker and a belay plate on an overhanging rap.
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